Power window problems? Read on for free tips.

Broken power windows are usually caused by one of several things. The most common problem is a bad power window motor. The second most common problem is the regulator, followed by a bad power window switch. If the window regulator is broken it could be binding or the cable could be off one of the pulleys. In a few cases, the window may just be STUCK. This happens sometimes in rear windows that get little use. The weather stripping that the window slides in (AKA called a window run) can sometimes prevent the window from moving.

Sometimes moving the window by hand at the same time the switch is tried can free up the window. The the guides can be lubricated with a clear silicone spray. Auto mechanic’s repair many of these power window problems week in and week out. I too have repaired literally hundreds of power windows in nearly all makes of cars over the years. In this how to auto repair blog I’ll let you in on some of my personal tips and tricks, when checking power windows that are not working. Most of the time, broken power window problems can be diagnosed in less than a minute. 

Power Window Stops Working 

If the window only moves a few inches and stops, but after it is allowed time to cool down – then the window motor will again move a few inches and stop; the power window motor will need to be replaced. If there’s no sound coming from the motor at all, it may not be getting power and ground supplied to it. Another possibility is that the motor itself may have an open circuit. To check for power at the power window motor requires removing the door panel to access the electrical plug. Then wiring can be tested, by using a power probe, test light or multi meter. Over time I’ve learned a short cut that saves the hassle of removing the interior door panel for testing the motor. Due to the demand of current, the fluctuation can be seen by looking for decreased strength of the lights. What I do is; with the key on and engine off, turn the interior and head lights on.

You can try this with one of the power windows that is working to see how it affects the interior lights. If there’s no change in the intensity of the lights when trying this with the power window that’s not working, the switch is most likely bad.

Window Appears to Be Off track or is Binding  

Windows won’t just go off track by themselves, usually if they fall or bind it’s due to broken power window regulator.  If a window regulator breaks it can cause the window to go out of it’s normal zone causing it fall or bind and therefore it can be out of the window run or guide. If a window seems to be off track, the regulator is most likely broken. Window regulators typically have metal gears (which rarely fail) or they have a cable and plastic pulley design (which commonly fail). If the window has fallen, the regulator will most likely need to be replaced. If the glass is pitched unevenly and is binding, the regulator has most likely came apart. The window motor will be heard when pushing the switch in many cases but the window won’t work correctly due to the broken regulator.

Suggestions 

1. Window switches are sometimes exposed to rain or spilled soda’s. The electric contacts in the window switch can be worn, corroded or dirty. Try pushing the window switch particularly hard to see what happens – if it works, the PW switch is the problem and will most likely need to be replaced.
2. Using the tips above and finding the switch to be working and the motor is not. Remove the door panel and try lightly tapping on the motor with a metallic object. If it temporarily works, the window motor will need to be replaced.
3. If the window has fallen and it just needs to be put up temporarily, many DIY’s will use a piece of wood to prop it in the upright position until they can a visit a repair shop. *Fair warning though, if the window falls inside the door it can break. 

Linking: Please reference this article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/06/my-power-window-is-stuck-broken-window-problems/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.   

Tags: power, window, broken, off, track, fell, problems

Jeep Liberty rear door panel.

A Jeep Liberty window is falling down into a door at the alarming rate of one every minute! Kidding aside the Jeep Liberty does seem to have problems with a weak design for the window regulator. Typically the motor can be heard and the window can be raised by hand and temporarily taped in the up position until a replacement part can be purchased. The good news is that it is a really simple job even for a do it yourself-er (DIY), see the tips below.

1. First remove the small trim piece in the interior door handle bezel. And then remove the philips screw.

2. Remove the philips screw located in the door pull recess as pictured above.

3. Next pull the interior door panel away from the door. It is held by plastic clips, a trim tool or screwdriver may be used to pry it off, being careful not to damage the panel. Push the manual door lock button down through the hole in the door panel. 

4. Unclip the door latch rod on the backside of the door panel and remove it. Next remove the door speaker and take the moisture barrier off of the inside of the door. Take note of where the rod goes through the barrier. One metal clip will need to be removed that holds the window to the regulator, hook it with a screwdriver or pick and pull to remove it. Secure the window in the UP position to allow removal of the broken regulator.

5. Unplug the window motor by sliding the red retainer, squeezing the connector and pulling it from the motor. Once the motor is unplugged, remove the six 10mm bolts that hold the window motor and regulator to the door. There will be one plastic retainer on the cable that secures the cable to the door to keep it away from the window when it is in operation. After the cable is loose, the assembly can now be removed through the access hole in the door.

If replacing with a factory assembly, the motor should be already mounted to the regulator. Reverse the procedure outlined. When attaching the window to the regulator the clip stays on the regulator and can be secured by positioning the window and squeezing it together. It will pop on easily, now proceed with the re-assembly.

Linking: Please reference this article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/02/jeep-liberty-power-window-problems-diy-tips/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: Jeep, Liberty, Power, Window, Problems, DIY, Tips

New Specialty tool for handling Ford broken spark plugs!

If you’re a subscriber to our automotive tool blog, you know we pointed out in a previous post, the need for a less expensive alternative to the Ford Rotunda 303-1398. The SPX Rotunda 303-1203 removes broken spark plugs on some Ford 5.4 engines, 2004 and up. But it only works after the broken porcelain piece is out of the way. That’s where the new Lisle LIS 65600 automotive specialty tool, comes into the picture. The best way to try to prevent Ford spark plugs from breaking to begin with (per a Ford Technical Service Bulletin-TSB) is to loosen the spark plugs slightly and then soak them with penetrating oil. Sometimes the carbon build up around the electrode shield will still separate from the main part of the spark plug. So, in many cases the porcelain part of the spark plug will stay in. This prevents the use of the 303-1203. Rotunda offers the SPX 303-1398 to remove the porcelain or ceramic piece, but the pins included in this six hundred dollar kit can only be used once. The pins are secured into the center of the broken spark plug (where the electrode was) with loc-tite, then the puller is used to hopefully pull the ceramic piece out of the way, so the two hundred dollar 303-1203 can be used to remove the metal electrode shield.  

Lisle’s Method, using the LIS65600 auto specialty tool implements a different approach. First, if the broken porcelain is stuck down in the spark plug hole, the first part of the Lisle kit is used to press it down a little further without breaking it. Forcing it all the way into the the cylinder would create more work, don’t worry it doesn’t do that.  After the porcelain is further down, it allows room for the second part of the Lisle tool to be used. The left handed threads of the tool self taps into the electrode shield so it can then be pulled out along with the porcelain, still fully intact.

Linking: Please reference this article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2008/10/alternative-to-the-rotunda-303-1398-auto-specialty-tool/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.       

Tags: Alternative, Rotunda, 303-1398, 303-1203, LIS65600,, Lisle, LIS, 65600, Auto, Specialty, Tool, automotive, broken, spark, plug, blog, forum, tech, article