Auto mechanics need car tools to be productive, but at what cost?

Summary: As with many industries the automotive mechanics tool industry is evolving due to availability and competition that the Internet has brought forth. In the past auto technicians mainly bought their auto mechanics car tools from mobile tool trucks such as Snap On, Mac Tools, Matco, Cornwell and USA Tools. This car tool article shows the trend of auto mechanics increasingly going on-line to find the tools they need. No longer are car tools ONLY available from the local tool truck salesman.

Snap-on automotive tools have excellent, premium grade products. However, there is also a premium price to pay! The good news is there’s many other choices today for professional grade car tools on-line at much lower prices. We are NOT talking about Harbor Freight grade tools here – although if very careful sometimes Harbor Freight does occasionally have some good tools available. The end user just has to be careful not to to buy a heavily discounted tool that ends up being an over-priced paperweight. Snap-on, Matco, MAC and Cornwell also sell other brands of tools on their tool trucks. They do this to round out their selection of tools they can offer. Also, sometimes an identical tool made by the same company with different labeling is available – you can guess that the Snap On labeling translates into a higher price. Below is a Snap On listing for a popular tool made by Horizon Tools and it’s labeled and packaged for Snap On. The identical product made by Horizon Tools is packaged with the Calvan name and is sold by DenLors Tools at a fraction of the cost. When this happens usually a product can cost 30 to 40% cheaper with the lesser known branding.  

The professional automotive technician has to purchase many tools to perform various jobs on cars. They are finding their way to the Internet in increasing numbers daily. It’s our job to help save them some money and still provide quality tools they expect. 

 As I’ve said many times before, half the battle when it comes to car repair is having the correct tools, that’s why we have supplied name-brand, discount automotive/car mechanics tools like OTC, Makita, Ingersoll Rand, Chicago Pneumatic, Power Probe, Astro Pneumatic, Vise Grips, Lisle, Fowler, Jump n Carry and CPS just to name a few. We also offer shop supplies and automotive shop equipment at discount prices. DenLors Tools was started in 2005, many readers put us on their favorites list and visit our site when car tool needs arise, we would be happy if you did the same.

Tags: Auto, Mechanics, Car, Tools

Summary: Jeep Grand Cherokee’s with dual zone have a common problem of blend doors breaking at the point of actuator engagement. Vehicles affected are 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokees. The automatic temperature control can be affected on the driver or passenger side, making the temp control inoperable. Until recently the refrigerant had to be discharged and the dash removed for repair. Now with a WJ blend door repair kit # K6855685AB, from Mopar/Chrysler/Fiat the repair can be done in the vehicle by even modestly experienced individuals. The kit includes an aluminum door door, a plastic door, a spindle, grease and patch material for resealing the evaporator case after repair. PDF Jeep instructions provided in this car repair article. 

Tools required for the repair are a Philips screwdriver, a shop vacuum, drill and drill bits, 8″ slip joint pliers, grease pencil or white crayon, grease and wax remover and a small knife. I recommend using a hot knife instead of a drill to cut the case. By using the hot knife, no plastic shavings will fall into the case and there will be less clean up required. Of course using a hot knife requires caution not to damage surrounding wires underneath the dash. If used carefully, it’s much easier to make the required cuts as opposed to using a drill as the Chrysler instructions direct. The repair is done in the area behind the glovebox – so first start by removing the glove box to gain access. After that is removed, unplug the temperature sensor and blend door actuator motor. Keep in mind that the plastic that is cut away WILL be re-used! Take time and outline measurements carefully because the cut-out portion will be put back into place after the repair. The directions are all included on the PDF instructions listed at the bottom of this car repair article. They will also be included with the repair kit when purchased at the dealership. 

 Here are a couple of additional pictures of the repair area. Notice the plastic 1/2 way inside the case, this is called the inner web and it will NOT be re-installed.

Work will all be done in the vehicle with the glove box removed.

The links below are “how to” instructions which are included with the repair kit purchased from the dealer.

Blend Door Repair PDF Page One

Blend Door Repair PDF Page Two

Blend Door Repair PDF Page Three

Blend Door Repair PDF Page Four

Blend Door Repair PDF Page Five

Blend Door Repair PDF Page Six

Blend Door Repair PDF Page Seven

Blend Door Repair PDF Page Eight

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link;   to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Related Article

Jeep Grand Cherokee Dual Zone AC Repair

Tags: Jeep, Grand, Cherokee, Dual, Zone, Blend, Door, Repair

Common transmission leak on many Chrysler products is the electrical plug housing.

Summary: A common Chrysler products, transmission fluid leak which affects many models including Jeep Grand Cherokees is covered here. The leak can easily be mis-diagnosed as a leaky pan gasket. A lot of unsuspecting consumers may end up spending a thousand dollars or more to rebuild a transmission with a leak like this. There’s no recall at this time from Chrysler, perhaps there should be, with such a widespread problem. The good news is that this auto repair blog describes the source of the problem and how to repair. A simple repair process to stop the leak for the cost of around ten dollars. Even a do-it yourself-er and can save possibly thousands of dollars from having a mis-diagnosed leak repaired by a transmission rebuild. The vehicle that the transmission leak occurred in, in this case was a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 3.7L, GAS, Vin K, Eng Cfg V6. 

The transmission fluid leak appears to be coming from the pan seal or gasket at the right front corner. However the common leak is from around the electrical connector housing for the wiring that goes into the transmission. The fluid leak can progress to a fairly rapid leak. This trans. is a Mercedes style transmission and has the European type of electrical plug. The plug is undone by twisting the plastic tab downward while slightly pulling outward. There is a 7 mm bolt in the center of the connector which can be accessed once the electrical plug has been removed. The updated part can be purchased from Chrysler for around $10, the part number is 68021352AA.

1. Start with a cold engine, since the service area is near the exhaust. Place a drip pan under the transmission to catch fluid. Disconnect the wiring harness connector by turning to the left or downward. 

2. Remove the electrical housing by taking out the 7 mm bolt in the center of the connector secures it to the transmission. After the bolt is unscrewed, the plastic connector housing can be removed along with two o-rings. Use the updated part from Mopar/Chrysler part #68021352AA. Be sure to clean area where the o-rings will contact and that the old o-rings are removed. 

3. Place the new replacement housing in position – it only goes on one way. The 7mm screw should be tightened with hand tools only and caution taken not to forcibly start it. After it is started it should NOT be over-tightened 

4. Clean the fluid off from the work area with a part cleaner such as brake clean. Dry area with compressed air. Check transmission fluid level with vehicle running and top off if necessary.  

The old electrical connector and o-rings.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2010/02/jeep-grand-cherokee-transmission-fluid-leak-common-leak/  to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: Jeep, Grand, Cherokee, Transmission, Fluid, Common, Leak,, how, to, reapir, electrical, connector, housing

“I’m gonna change this oil pan if it Kills Me!”

Summary: Having the right tools for the job not only increases production, it can help prevent personal injury. The auto mechanic in the picture above risks life and limb to change over an oil pan to a newly rebuilt engine. Technicians that have been working on cars for years are not exempt from making rookie mistakes. In fact older auto tech’s with more years in the field, may be more prone to taking some risks simply because of complacency.

Ok, here’s the sales pitch. In the market for an engine stand? It could be a real lifesaver! Kidding aside, safety is no laughing matter. In fact DenLor’s is proclaiming February 20th “Auto Repair National Safety Awareness Day.” In checking with the United States Department of Labor, I’ve found that auto mechanics are statistically more likely than the average worker to be injured or killed on the job. Working on a crab fishing boat in Alaska is definitely more risky, but mechanics are exposed to risk too. Over the years I’ve never had a car fall off the vehicle lift, but I have heard of a few falling. The worst injury I’ve ever had working in an auto repair shop was when I was changing a tire that had been ran flat; the tire was nearly disintegrated. The only part that was remaining was a couple of inches of the sidewall and both beads. The tread and most of the sidewall was GONE. So, fifteen minutes before my lunch break, I had to change one tire. No problem normally, however this tire was much more difficult to change. The tire machine’s bead breaker didn’t have much to push on. This was back in the 80’s and the tire machine was the old Coats style with a bead breaker on the bottom and one on top that swings over. I was reaching under the tire with my left hand pulling up on the bead while I worked the foot pedal for the bead breaker. I had my hand too close to the bottom bead breaker and you could guess what happend next… it slipped off the bead crushing the tip of my middle finger. I instinctively yanked my hand back pulling the cap of my finger off, including the fingernail and surrounding skin. With my crushed bloody finger I told my boss at the time (Bill Harper Dade City Goodyear Mgr.) who was pulling a car into the shop that “I was injured.” He said are you going? I said yeah, with that I ran about a block over to the walk-in clinic. The pain of disinfecting it was worse than the what the tire machine had inflicted! After it was cleaned they injected a pain killer and put stitches completely through my finger to hold it together. Luckily the nail bed was not damged too bad. The nail grew back almost completely normal.

Quote from a US Dept. of Labor Study

Mechanics are more likely than the average worker to be injured or killed on the job, as evidenced by higher rates of fatalities and injuries and illnesses. For both fatal and nonfatal injuries, contact with objects and equipment, such as parts and materials and vehicles, represents a significant hazard. Many of the remaining nonfatal cases are due to overexertion and sprains and strains.

Tips for Working on Cars Safely

• Use common sense, if you have second thoughts about how you are doing a certain procedure – reconsider how it can be done more safely.
• Avoid defeating safety devices on equipment. Safety devices on vehicle lifts are there for a reason – it is also an OSHA violation to defeat them.
• Use safety glasses when grinding, using power tools, air tools, hammers or anything else that may cause harm to your eyes. I once knew of a service manager that was helping a tech, using a pry bar. The bar slipped and the technicians eye was hit - now he has one eye.
• Use jack stands. Don’t trust your life to ANY floor jack. Someone I used to work with had a close call, when changing a starter on his own car at home. The floor jack leaked slowly and he was pinned! Lucky for him a friend came by to save the day. A jack stand in place would have prevented him from nearly suffocating.
• Consider the vehicles balance on a lift when removing heavy component like an engine or transmission. I removed an engine from an extended cab F150 and nearly had the truck fall backwards off the lift. Between the length of the truck and the weight being removed in front, the truck became heavier at the rear and teetered slightly backwards. I was fortunate to be able to let the vehicle down without incident.
•  Use gloves to reduce your skin’s exposure to chemicals. Reduce the use of spray chemicals like brake clean when possible. Livers and lungs pay the price over time for over-exposure to chemicals.
• Finally, use an engine stand to safely transfer parts when changing engines. Never get underneath an engine supported by just an engine crane/hoist. If the chain let’s go on either end, 3-400 pounds will be coming your way!

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2010/02/auto-repair-national-safety-awareness-day/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Related Articles and Products

Automotive Mechanics Nitrile Gloves – Hands are Best Tools

Shop Supplies and Safety

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Video I made a while back showing the specialty tool in use.

Summary: Automotive repair blog article on changing intake gaskets on GM 3.1 and 3.4 v-6 engines. Often the problem of water in the oil is mis-diagnosed as blown head gaskets. There are many time saving tips that can be used when changing the gaskets in this and Denlor’s original tech article linked within. The image above is click-able, it opens a new window for Youtube – just watch the volume! The tool is a Lisle 48500, we’ve been selling it for several years now.

It saves a lot of time when changing GM intake gaskets on Chevrolet/Oldsmobile/Pontiac 3.1 and 3.4 liter engines. Leaking intake gaskets are very common on these engines. The typical scenario is; 1. the car overheats, coolant is low but doesn’t seem to be leaking out anywhere. 2. After checking the engine oil and finding cappuccino or a chocolate milk substance… the worst is feared – a LEAKING HEAD GASKET! But in many cases on these engines it’s just a leaking intake gasket. The original type intake gaskets are a composite (which looks like a hard plastic) with a rubber insert. The intake gasket bolts have a low torque spec because of the type of gasket material. Over time the gaskets get hard and brittle and can break. The result in most cases is coolant leaking directly into the engine crankcase. Parts stores still sell the original type gaskets, but it’s important to know that if planning to keep the vehicle indefinitely upgraded steel gaskets with rubber inserts are available too.

More about the tool in the video.

The original Lisle 48500’s were too long to use on mini vans. I discovered that the tool would touch the cowl when prying the rockers on the firewall side. I simply removed the handle protector and cut off a couple of inches, rounded the corners and slipped the cover back on – it worked great. Lisle has now updated the tool to the proper length that doesn’t interfere with the cowls on mini vans and still provides sufficient leverage.

Question from a recent visitor

I’m going to tackle an intake manifold gasket on my Chevy Lumina 3.1 – I’m a “fair” shade-tree, amateur mechanic. With regard to the Lisle Push Rod Remover tool LIS48500, will this tool help me a lot? Am I crazy if I don’t order it? Any tips? THANKS! (PS: How much for freight and how soon can I get it? Thanks, again.)

My Response

Related Links

Our Original Tech Article on Servicing Intake Gaskets with the Pushrod Tool (Skip un-needed steps)

Lisle Pushrod Tool Product Listing

Automotive Helper Forum  (Some of the issues discussed at this forum can be avoided by using our tips)

Hub Pages (Some good tips for DIYers but the author did more work than was needed)

Tags: GM, 3.1, 3.4, Intake, Gasket, Replacement, Tips

 

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Ford Windstar Lean Code – P0171 or P0174

Jeep Grand Cherokee Scanned P1281 Fault Code

Ford P1131, P1151 Fault Codes 3.0 DOHC – O-2 Diagnostics

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Tags: Best, Car, Code, Reader,, scan, tool

Genisys scan tools have came down in price considerably over the last few years. Auto tech’s that own an older Genisys, MAC Mentor or Matco Determinator are bound to be faced with a decision to either update their scan tool or consider updating it. I recently had a couple of questions concerning Genisys scan tools, updates and cables - I thought I would use this forum to share them.

Question:I have an older MAC Mentor (system version 1.07 with the older black power button) and I’m looking to update. It currently has 2001 pathfinder loaded on the internal software and the expandable memory port is unoccupied. I’m wondering if I can update to a minimal of version 3.0 with up to 2008 Domestic/Asian and abs, or if it’s even worth it (or possible). I like the scanner and it’s reliable however your item OTC369609SYS40 is a great deal. What would you recommend? Thanks in advance – Paul T.

Answer: Scan tools are lot like personal computers, usually after several years it makes more sense to compare purchasing a new one instead of paying to upgrade an older model. The cost of upgrading your MAC Mentor would lead me to the decision to purchase a new Genisys, here’s why. With your old scan tool which has a slower processor (indicated by the black button) cannot be upgraded, you would want a new operating system, Smart cable, Domestic and Asian software… maybe a replacement battery… charger…? Both the 3696 and the 3696 (with 4.0 coupon) are great deals. They include the Smart Cable which eliminates the need to use Smart Inserts. These are new units, NOT refurbished and come with a full manufacturer warranty. Either one you decide to go with offer great value. We offer free shipping, no sales tax outside Florida and a discount coupon DLTSAVE3 for 3% off at checkout (for purchases over $1,000). Oh, you could also see about selling your old scan tool on Craigslist and get few bucks out of it that you could apply towards your new purchase.

Question: I want to purchase a scan tool that has the capability of accessing older OBD I vehicles and OBD II cars as well. I have some customers that have older vehicles so I need to be able to scan their cars. Some of my other clientele have newer cars with OBD 2 – I need to be able to check ABS and airbag codes.

Answer: The Genisys Scan tool considering it’s wide range of capability is one of the best scanners for the money. Any of the Genisys scan tools are capable of scanning older cars (prior to 1996) as long as you have the OBD I cables – OTC-3421-70. The OBD 1 cables are not included with every Genisys scan tool, so you do have to check the product description. Also don’t rely solely on the image for the product because sometimes stock photos are used. The OTC 3484 DOES have OBDI cables included. It is a factory rebuilt unit that is priced at a bargain basement price.

Rebuilt by OTC Tools SPX Corporation – Classic Genisys scan tool with software updates.
System 3.0 Software operating system (4.0 not included).
OBD II Smart Cable which is over a $200 value by itself.
USA 2008 Domestic, USA 2008 Asian, 2006 InfoTech, ABS / Airbag 2008
Includes 2009 Asian/Domestic update coupon and Domestic OBD I cables OTC 3421-70
Reconditioned Genisys with new battery, charger deluxe carrying case and 90 day warranty. Free shipping and no sales tax outside Florida – while supplies last.

Tags: Genisys, Scan, Tool,, Updates,, 4.0

Summary: A common problem is when both turn signals and hazard lights go out at same time, on a VW New Beetle. The next question - Where is the flasher located?Many cars have seperate flashers, one for the turn signals and one for the hazard lights. A good reason for separate flashers is that both are unlikely to fail at the same time and a driver in an emergency situation would be able to turn on some flashing lights to alert other drivers. VW, was unable to grasp this idea so they designed a dual purpose flasher relay - when it fails, the turn signals and hazards will NOT work. The turn signal and hazard flasher relay is integrated into the hazard flasher switch. When the relay fails it will cause both the turn signals and the hazard lights to stop working. The unit is replaced as an assembly, see the picture below.

The flasher relay is built into the hazard switch. 

No turn signal operation? Hazards don’t work? If neither work it is likely that the flasher which is built into the hazard switch has failed.  If tests 2 and 3 check good and tests 4 and 5 fail, the hazard switch is at fault and needs to be replaced. Tests 6 and 7 check the integrity of the wiring from the hazard switch to the turn signal switch, also the operation of all the turn signal lights wiring, sockets and bulbs. It’s important to note that if the turn signals can be heard but are not operating the turn signal switch itself could be the problem – using the outlined tests below can help to pinpoint this problem as well. 

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/12/vw-beetle-turn-signals-and-hazard-inoperable/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article

Tags: VW, Beetle, Turn, Signal, Hazard, Inoperable

Summary: Due partially to the economy with people finding it harder to get financing, demand is down for new and used cars. Right now some great deals on slightly used cars can be picked up, even at the new car dealers.  This 5.3 V-8 2007 Impala SS loaded with 40,000 miles was picked up at a great price ($14,500) at Gordon Chevrolet in Tampa Florida. The leather was a little worn and honestly a little plain – too much grey was used on the interior. By getting this car at a great price, we budgeted enough money to snazz up the interior a bit. That’s where our local upholstery shop comes in. Cimo & Cimo’s Upholstery shop has a location in Tampa Florida, they will reupholster just about anything, from hot rods to yachts. Installing window film is a large part of their business too. Who in Florida would invest in a new leather interior for their car and not shade it from the sun? This article has before and after pictures of the plain grey and the two tone leather after it was installed.

The picture above shows the Impala SS plain grey leather ”before shot.”

A common wear area on leather seats is where the driver slides in. Not keeping the leather conditioned will accelerate the wear. Leather can be dyed to restore it temporarily, however with our last car we learned that the dye can come back off after a short time. Also we wanted the look of two tone to break up the grey. The upholstery shop we used (Cimo & Cimo’s) recommends Lexol leather cleaner and preservative. It’s a brand that many luxury car dealers sell in their parts departments, best of all it’s available at most parts stores at a much lower price.

Removing the seats is obviously the first step in replacing the upholstery material.

Tags: Impala, SS, Two, Tone, Leather, interior, Cimo, &, Cimo's, Upholstery

Summary: Rear wiper motors on many types of SUV’s and mini vans commonly fail. One reason they fail is due to infrequent use. Electric motors tend to work better when they are used often. Sometimes a rear wiper motor can be tapped lightly to make it work temporarily. This is a quick test (used a lot on Fords) that will help to verify there’s power present at the motor. The wiper motor may stop again before long, but knowing that the motor is getting battery voltage without having to take the trim panel off for testing is a definite plus. The vehicle featured in this car repair article is a Chevy, which doesn’t have the common Ford rear wiper problem. The 1999 S-10 Blazer hatch has been opened and closed many times over the years. This can cause the wiring from the body to the hatch to weaken over time much like breaking a wire hanger by bending it in the same position repeatedly.

The tap test on the rear wiper motor didn’t do anything on this SUV. The rear wiper motor didn’t seem to be getting any power at all. Knowing that these motors usually are not a common problem, before removing the trim panel it was worth testing for voltage using a power probe where the wiring goes through the rubber conduit. If power was present when testing the orange 12v wire, the hatch trim panel would need to be removed for further testing. On the top side of the boot there was power – on the bottom side of the boot, No Power.  A little tug on the wire to check the integrity and it was found to be completely broken in two. Checking the rest of the wires by pulling them slightly and another one was found broken also.

What a simple repair this was going to be! Routing the replacement sections of wire through the rubber wiring loom proved to be difficult though. The wire cannot be simply pushed all the way through the rubber conduit without bunching up. A specialty tool would be needed to snake the wiring. How about a BIC pen? Perfect. After taking a pen apart, the tube left remaining was ideal for guiding the wire through the loom.   

Once the wire was in place, a little heat shrink and soldering was in order. After soldering, sliding the heat shrink into place and applying a little heat, black electrical tape was used to button this repair up. 

Good for another ten years.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/12/rear-wiper-motor-repair-chevy-blazer-problems/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article

Tags: Rear, Wiper, Motor, Repair, Chevy, Blazer, Problems