Summary: Ford spark plug blowout repair is covered in this article for 4.6, 5.4 & 6.8 liter engines. There are different brand insert repairs available for this Ford spark plug problem, however they are not all as effective and long lasting as the solution we recommend. Many Ford dealers want to charge thousands to replace the cylinder heads, when our repair can be done in the vehicle for a fraction of the cost. We sell some competitive brands like Lisle and Helicoil, however the Horizon made Calvan 38900 (Mount.9200 same w/different labeling) is the best repair system on the market today. We’ve sold hundreds of these, saving Ford owners a ton of money in the process. In the following article we’ll explain why this should be the next and last repair purchased for this particular repair.

This links to the entire article on our main site.

Tags: Ford, Spark, Plug, Blow, Out, Problems, How, to, Repair

Summary: This article is about Dodge Ram pick up trucks that have a common air-flow problem with the HVAC (Heating Ventilation & Air Conditioning) system. The problem causes little heat (or AC depending the time of the year) to flow through the vents. The blower fan can typically be heard with no abnormal sounds, although no air seems to be making it out of  the vents. We go over parts that need to be removed to gain access to replace a common failed component.

A common problem for the Dodge Ram pick up truck is to have low airflow even though the blower fan can be heard loud and strong. Usually the problem is because of a broken fresh air door – AKA recirculate door. The fresh air door is located behind the glove box area. What can happen is the door can break and fall down covering the blower fan, essentially sealing off  all air-flow. That’s why the blower can sound normal on all speeds, but little air can be felt from the vents. The broken door below shows the point at which the break is common.

In the image below, the x’s mark most of the trim pieces that need to be removed to gain access to bolts which hold the dash. One that is not marked is on the top of the dash, it’s the large trim panel which is not visible in the picture. This can be an easy job to do at home since the air conditioning system does not have to be discharged. In fact nothing on the firewall side has to be disturbed.

Note that the steering coloumn is unbolted and allowed to drop down and is not unbolted at the steering coupler. Undo the stop light swith to prevent stress on the wiring when the dash is swung.

Below the new door assembly can be seen back in position and the dash can now be re-installed.

Reverse the removal process of the securing bolts and trim panels and the job is done.

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Tags: Dodge, Ram, Low, Air, Flow, AC, Vents, air, conditioning, door, recirculate

Summary: This article is on how to check for bent valves. Valves get bent most often on vehicles that have had a timing belt break or a timing chain jump a sprocket. Interference engines can allow the valves to crash into the pistons when the timing belt breaks due to the engine’s timing being out of synchronization. Some cars are more prone to having valve damage when the timing is off. We cover some of the more common manufacturers that seem to suffer from bent valves more than others, from timing belt failure. We have some tips on how to check for bent valves with the cylinder head still on the vehicle. Tools that help in determining if there’s bent valves listed also.

Valves normally will not just bend unless the engine has experienced some sort of trauma. A quick look down the spark plug holes with a borescope or video inspection camera may reveal if the top of the pistons have been hit with a piston. One other fairly quick check is to do a compression test of each cylinder while the spark plugs are out. If the timing is off slightly, the engine may still run, however the valve timing will be retarded which will result in low compression readings and low engine vacuum. Backfiring, lack of power and bogging are common symptoms of an engine that is not timed properly. If the valves are bent, they will not seat (close) properly which allows cylinder compression to leak past the valves. A cylinder leak down test can be performed with a leak down tester to help determine if an exhaust or intake valve could have a problem. When the cylinder leak down tester is inserted into a spark plug hole and air is introduced, air escaping from the throttle, indicates a an intake valve leaking; air leaking out of the exhaust indicates an exhaust valve leak. It’s important to understand that if the timing is off (meaning the crankshaft and camshafts are not synchronized properly) low compression readings will be the result. If the timing belt seems loose, the timing belt could have jumped, check the alignment of the timing marks before going any further. Jumped timing is usually caused by worn timing belts, timing chains, guides, tensioners, idler pulleys and even by water pumps that have excessive movement on vehicles that use the chain or belt to drive it (water pump). If timing has jumped one or more teeth, the cam timing will be off enough to cause low compression readings even though valve damage might not have occurred. After verifying the timing marks are lined up properly, a simple tool that can be used for checking for valve problems is a vacuum gauge. The vacuum gauge reading taken from a source on the intake should be around 20 inches of vacuum. If the gauge flutters excessively, either worn or bent valves could be the cause. Pulling a valve cover and looking for full rocker arm movement can also be one way to detect an valve problems. Look for full movement during the rotation of the engine.

More about cylinder leak down testing. When performing a cylinder leak down test, the cylinder being tested has to have the piston brought to the top position (TDC). When the cylinder being tested is at TDC, the intake and exhaust valves should be completely closed and the cylinder chamber should hold compression. The cylinder leak down tester typically has two gauges, like on the OTC5609. One gauge shows pressure that is introduced with shop air from the air compressor and the other gauge shows the amount of loss. In the example above, the first gauge shows that 28 psi of shop air is supplied to the cylinder and the second gauge is showing that there is a 35% loss of pressure which is acceptable. A small amount of loss is to be expected. If an abnormal percentage of loss is measured it’s time to diagnose and pinpoint where the pressure is going. To determine where a major loss of pressure is leaking; 1. Listen with a stethoscope in the crankcase through the oil fill with the cap removed – this could indicate worn rings. 2. Listen through the throttle plates on the intake – hissing there could be an indication of an intake valve problem. 3. And finally listen for a hissing out of the tail pipe – which could mean an exhaust valve is the issue. This process is repeated for each cylinder until the leak down has been pinpointed.

A repair manual can be checked to see if a particular car has an interference motor. Some designs allow for clearance of the valve and pistons even when the motor is spinning with improper timing. Other manufacturers have much closer tolerances which do not allow for clearance – this can allow valve and or piston damage when timing is not in sync for some reason. All Honda engines are interference engines, so when a Honda timing belt breaks it is quite possible that some valves could be bent when a timing belt or a related component fails. Sometimes though, Honda owners can get lucky and not have bent valves. It seems to matter how fast the engine RPM’s were at the time of failure – the faster the revolutions at the time the belt went, the more likely the valves have crashed into the pistons. The Daewoo Lanos seems to have an even higher chance of valve damage when a timing belt breaks. Most of the time ALL valves are bent on a 1.6 when the timing belt breaks on that model. As a side note, the Daewoo Lanos requires a special water pump/timing belt tool for adjusting the tension on the belt.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/checking-for-bent-valves-broken-timing-belt/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: check, for, bent, valves,, diagnosing, bent, valves,, causes, for, bent, valves

Champion 7989 spark plugs are a one piece design that eliminates separating (image courtesy of ModdedMustangs.com).

Summary: In this auto repair blog post, we provide information about an improved design spark plug for Ford 3 valve engines. The original equipment Ford Motorcraft spark plugs have became notorious for breaking when being removed.  One of our previous articles is on broken spark plug removal; but who wants to put the same bad design back in?  There was a huge need a newly designed replacement spark plug that would work in place of Ford’s badly designed spark plug that has caused much expense and inconvenience for many Ford owners. This article is about that plug and has application information as well.

Ford owners looking for a better spark plug to put back in their vehicle after going through broken spark plug blues are turning to the Champion 7989 one piece design. The two piece Ford design has been a total nightmare for unsuspecting Ford owners and mechanics. The original spark plugs can break easily due to a combination a poorly designed spark plug and carbon build-up. If changing the spark plugs for the first time in one of these engines, read our repair article on Changing Ford Spark Plugs 4.6, 5.4, 6.8 – Ford TSB 08-7-6. The article provides information that may help the person doing the job, from prevent breaking the spark plugs to begin with – or least it may help prevent breaking anymore. If researching how to remove broken spark plugs, we have an article that shows the Lisle 65600 DLT in action doing  just that. We sold the Ford special service tool (303-1203) when there were no other options, but now the tool we sell the most of is the 65600. In most cases this tool does the job terrifically, preventing the need to remove the cylinder heads to remove the OE separated spark plugs. The Champion replacement plug at this time only comes in one heat range, however this seems a like a small trade-off to have a plug that’s not going to break at the time of the next tune up!

The Champion Double Platinum Power spark plug (7989) one-piece design is the one I would choose if faced with this dilemma. In addition to its problem-solving design, the new Champion Double Platinum Power plug features the conventional looking electrode which can be gapped. The Motorcraft design has a n electrode saddle which due to design CANNOT be re-gapped. The new Champion plug also has an exclusive Heat-Active alloy, which enables the plug to reach and maintain the optimum temperature range more efficiently.

The new Champion Double Platinum Power spark plug is available at this time for the following vehicles:

• Ford Expedition                   2005-08     5.4  V8
• Ford Explorer                       2006-07     4.6  V8
• Ford F-150                           2004-07     5.4  V8
• Ford F-250 Super Duty      2005-08     5.4  V8 and 6.8  V10
• Ford F-350 Super Duty      2005-08     5.4 V8 and 6.8  V10
• Ford F-450 Super Duty      2005-07     6.8 V10
• Ford F-550 Super Duty      2005-07     6.8 V10
• Ford Mustang                      2005-07     4.6 V8
• Lincoln Mark Lt.                  2006-07      5.4 V8)
• Lincoln Navigator               2005-07     5.4 V8
• Mercury Mountaineer         2006-07     4.6 V8

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/champion-7989-one-piece-design-spark-plug-ford-3v/ to highlight  2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

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Tags: Champion, 7989, One, Piece, Design, Spark, Plug, Ford, 3V

Ford has had a long history of coming up with unique ideas – Edsel case in point.

Summary: In this auto repair blog we cover some of the most common Ford mechanical issues in late model Ford vehicles. Learn how a minor tune up could lead to a several thousand dollar repair. Some of the most notable problems are with spark plugs ejecting (and breaking) – EGR systems, transmission failures and keys getting stuck in the ignition. Along with common problems, auto mechanics need specialty tools in some cases to make repairs; we cover those too.

Ford spark plugs ejecting while driving down the road is almost 100% unique to the Ford Motor Company. In some 4.6, 5.4 and 6.8 liter engines (most manufactured prior to 2003) the four aluminum threads give-way, allowing the spark plug to be FIRED one last time – as a projectile! Typically when the plug shoots out it breaks the ignition coil along the way. Ford dealers in most cases want to replace the affected cylinder head for the tune of around $3500. We have a better solution which has saved our customers hundreds of thousands of dollars over the past several years. Our fix is done in the vehicle and the spark plug port repair makes the threads stronger than new – it lasts the lifetime of the motor. Just what you expect from any spark plug threads, right?

Spark plug problems continue to plague Ford. After having engines that spit out spark plugs like a spud out of a potato cannon, Ford has had an epiphany… a better idea. On some 4.6 and 5.4 motors from around 2004 & up, the problem is a new one… Ford spark plugs are now breaking off left and right when unsuspecting owners or techs are attempting to perform minor tune-ups. Ford again out doing themselves with another better idea – the unique spark plug they have in 2004 and up Triton 3 valve engines has a large electrode shield which tends to stick with carbon build-up. The result in many cases is a broken spark upon removal. The threaded part comes out leaving the shield and many times a chunk of porcelain stuck, wedged with carbon down in the cylinder. This has become such a problem that Ford has issued a TSB outlining a procedure for changing spark plugs in affected vehicles. If the procedure doesn’t work, the cylinder head may need to be removed costing several thousand dollars at the dealer. We have discovered the best and least expensive specialty tool for removing broken spark plugs in these vehicles. The specialty tool has had a great track record, it’s the tool I would use if faced with this problem – the Lisle 65600.

Some other common problems with Fords are EGR low flow codes, which can mean EGR passages are clogged up and in many other cases it could just mean that the DPFE is bad.  Ford lean codes are really common and most of the time they are easily diagnosed and repaired. Transmission all-out failures seem to have been most common with Ford Explorers around the year 2000. Ford seems to have improved the quality and reliability of their transmissions in later models. Crown Victoria’s and other rear wheel drive cars around the year 2000 also had an issue with their transmissions. The problem was a shudder around 45 MPH. The problem was actually related to the torque converter. Some shops including the one I worked at (around 02-05 performed a transmission flush, changing all of the transmission fluid including what is in the converter. Most of the time the shudder would be taken care of, a small percentage of the time the transmission had to be removed and the torque converter would need to be replaced. Ford Focus cars had a huge problem with the ignition lock. The tumblers can wear and cause binding making it impossible in some cases to turn the key. For awhile at the shop I worked at prior to 2005, we were getting two or three a week towed in. If we were busy, we let the locksmith replace the ignition lock. It was a pain to remove the lock cylinder because the key needs to be turned to the on position before a release button could be pushed in to release the lock cylinder. Since the key would not turn – there lies the problem. Sometimes WD40 can be sprayed into the lock cylinder and vise grips can be attached to the key to be used as leverage. Of course the key can be broken if too much force is used, but sometimes by working the key back and forth the lock can be turned to the on position so that the lock cylinder can be removed and replaced. If that trick doesn’t work, extreme measures may have to be taken. The Focus is one of the few cars that you can get away with using a slide hammer to remove the ignition lock. It’s done by running a sheet metal screw into the slot where the key goes. Then the slide hammer can be attached to the screw with Vise grips. Whaling with the slide hammer will pull the lock out without breaking the ignition lock housing. Once it’s out of the ignition lock cylinder, it can be recoded to match the original key and installed. The locksmith that I used to talk with back then told me to never try the slide hammer method on any other vehicle because the housing would break, causing extensive damage to the steering column.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/common-ford-problems-and-specialty-tools/ to highlight  2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

On a final note, just want to let Ford lovers know, I too like Fords, in fact I once restored a 67 Mustang convertible – see my article on the cowl repair, along with pictures.

Tags: Common, Ford, Problems,, Specialty, Tools

Summary: In this auto service article we review the Jump and Carry booster pack line-up. These booster packs (jump starters) are manufactured by Clore automotive, which is one of the largest jump box suppliers in the automotive service industry – we cover the reasons why they maintain their top position. Jump and Carry booster boxes are available in several different CCA’s (Cold Cranking Amps) ranges, which allows the auto professional to purchase the size unit that best fits their needs.

The battery is the heart of any battery booster. Jump n Carry booster packs have AGM (Absorption Glass Mat) batteries that are sealed, which allow them to be used or stored safely in any position – there is no liquid that can leak out. This type of sealed battery technology was originally formulated back in 1985 for military use in aircraft – obviously power, weight, safety and most of all reliability were serious considerations. The AGM type battery provides increased safety, performance and service life over all other existing sealed battery types, including gel technology. With AGM sealed batteries, the acid is absorbed between the plates and immobilized by a very fine fiberglass mat. No silica gel is necessary, because the glass mat absorbs and immobilizes the acid while still keeping the acid available to the plates. This allows a fast reaction between acid and plate material, which provides superior performance on demand.

The Jump n Carry battery booster housing is durable, which can withstand rough handling and the occasional fall from under the hood. The reason it is so durable is due to it’s case being made with high impact resistant polyethylene. Many imported jump boxes are cheap copies, they are made to look like the professional grade booster pacs – but looks can be deceiving, “generic” brands skimp when it comes to the quality of materials. After-all a booster pack that looks as good as a professional jump box, but does jump start a car with a really low battery; is a waste of money. More difference between cheap battery boosters and the best booster packs are the quality of the cables and clamps. The cheap ones will sometimes only be “hot” on one side of the clamp. Jump and Carry booster packs have current supplied to both sides of the clamp (wire braided cable insures this) to provide a good connection every time.

Selecting a Portable Booster Pack

• Buy a quality booster pack or buy often. Cheap jump starters are quite expensive if they don’t last!
• Choose a booster pack with sufficient amps (the more the better). Just like buying a battery for a car.
• Select a booster box with long enough cables, so that jumping a car is not a hassle – don’t come up short.
• Jumper clamps that are “hot” on both sides are the only ones worth having. JNC’s have these type of clamps.
• Booster boxes with air compressors should have metal pistons like the Jump and Carry Air to insure quality.
• Choose the brand more car lots and marinas select – proven dependability with repeated use.

One final recommendation is to be careful not to over-charge your new Jump and Carry booster pack. Over charging it can shorten it’s life. Be sure to review the manual and follow recommendations from the manufacturer. For those who’ve asked the question “which is the best booster box?” See our Jump and Carry selection now.

Tags: Jump, and, Carry,, Best, Booster, Pack

Heater hose clamps like pictured can be removed easily with special hose clamp tools.

Summary: In this auto service repair article, we cover how car heaters work. Knowing how the automotive heater system is designed to work, allows the car owner or auto tech to diagnose problems more quickly and easily. Car heaters are designed much differently than home heaters, therefore diagnosing and repairing auto heaters requires different service procedures. Auto service tips and information provided in this car repair article is written by a master automotive technician that has many years in the field. The info. is provided in simple language that is easy to understand by anyone – experienced in auto service or not.

It’s always best to have a basic understanding on how a particular system works, to be able to diagnose problems easier. When a car heater blows cold air, there are several possibilities that should be considered. Read on to to learn more. Many people are unaware that there’s NOT an electric element in a car’s heater system. Heater elements are common in portable heaters used in the home – however automobiles use coolant from the car engine’s cooling system to transfer heat to the passenger compartment, through the use of a heater core. That’s why a car heater doesn’t start blowing warm air until the vehicle reaches operating temperature. The heater core looks similar to a small radiator – it has coils and fins to transfer heat to the air.  The car engine’s coolant is pumped through the heater core while the fan (also called a blower), pushes air through the heater core fins. When air blows through the heater core fins the air is warmed and in turn heats up the passenger compartment.

One of the most common causes of a car heater blowing cold air is from low coolant. As stated before, coolant is what warms the heater core – if the coolant is low, there may not be enough heat transfer from the heater core to the air to heat the passenger compartment. When it ’s cold outside, low coolant may not cause the engine to overheat right away. If it did cause the engine’s temperature gauge to read hot, the driver would be warned and low coolant would be discovered more quickly. The point is, when checking the heater be sure the radiator is full of coolant. Once the coolant is verified to be full, feel the heater hoses that go to the firewall. With the engine at normal operating temperature, BOTH of the heater hoses should be hot to the touch. If only one is hot, this indicates there is a blockage in the heater core or there is air trapped in the heater core preventing proper flow. Using a Lisle coolant funnel is best way to remove air from a car’s cooling system. If the coolant is really brown, has been neglected, or if stop leak has been used at some time in the car’s service history, the heater core could be stopped up. The blockage can sometimes be cleared  by removing the heater hoses and using a garden hose with a sprayer to flush the heater core out. If neither of the hoses are hot to the touch, there could also be a malfunctioning heater control valve, if used on the model you’re working on. Check for presence of a heater control valve by following the heater hoses back to the engine. Sometimes, a vacuum line could have a break causing there to be no vacuum to operate the valve. Also it should be noted that if this is your first winter with this car (and you’re unfamiliar with the car’s repair history), the previous owner could have by-passed the heater core due to a leak. When a heater core leaks, the passenger side carpet will become soaked with coolant. This should not be confused with an AC (condensation) water leak. The labor involved to change a heater core is usually several hours depending on the model. This is the reason some people will loop the heater hoses together with a 5/8″ union – by-passing a leaking heater core instead of repairing it properly.

After the previous steps are taken to insure the heater core is in the loop, the coolant is full and hot water is circulating in and out of the heater core, read the following regarding the HVAC (Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning) case. Doors within the heater case are either controlled by electric actuators, cables or vacuum motors. Adjust the heat control to both extremes while listening for movement of the blend door. With a cable operated heater door it’s easiest to hear the door thump when it closes. If the door is not operating, find the door that controls the airflow across the heater core. If there is an electric motor that controls the door, tapping on it can sometimes make it work temporarily for testing purposes. A vacuum operated motor needs vacuum to work, so using a hand-held vacuum pump for testing is usually the easiest way to check operation. If the vacuum motor does not hold vacuum, the diaphragm is leaking requiring replacement. To go deeper into diagnosis of the AC control head’s function and diagnosis, specific vehicle repair diagrams may be needed or help from technician that has experience with the specific model may be most beneficial.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; to highlight http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/car-heater-blows-cold-auto-service-tips/ 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

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The Robinair AC Machine is one of the most popular units for car air conditioning service.

Summary: In this auto repair article we discuss the reasons why a car’s air conditioning system may leak water inside the vehicle. Sometimes the fix is simple and other times the repair can be much more labor intensive. As an automotive technician that’s worked over 25 years in Florida, I’ve dealt with this problem many times on different models. If leaks aren’t fixed quickly, the carpet and padding underneath can become a breeding ground for mildew and harmful bacteria. People with certain allergies can be affected the most.

There are several reasons why a car’s AC can leak or drip water into the passenger compartment. First it’s important to understand that water dripping from under the car when the A/C is on is normal. It’s only when the water drips on the inside of the car there’s an issue. Varying amounts of water dripping (condensation) under the car is to be expected, depending on the level of humidity in the air. The higher the humidity, the higher the volume of water can be seen dripping under the car from the evaporator drain tube. I’ve actually had customers that complained because they thought that too much water was dripping under the car after an AC repair. On several occasions customers would say “It never had that much water draining out before.” It’s funny how some car owners pay closer attention to certain things after a repair has been made. After explaining that it’s a normal for condensation (water) to accumulate on the evaporator fins, drip to the bottom of the case and run out the drain tube; only then they understand that there’s not something wrong.

One of the most common causes of water dripping inside the car is because of a clogged drain. If the evaporator drain becomes restricted, the water backs up in the HVAC (Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning) case. The case is designed to allow water to travel to the bottom and out the drain tube. The case is not designed to be completely water tight in the event the drain becomes clogged. Sometimes if excess water remains in the case, some of it can blow out of the AC vents. In extreme cases the water can damage the blower motor and/or short out the blower resistor. Usually the blockage is caused by debris in the case, like leaves or dirt. Many times the evaporator drain can be cleared by blowing compressed air into the drain from the firewall side. A metal coat hanger can also be used to stick into the drain tube to loosen the debris and allow it to exit with the water.

Another common cause of water entering the passenger compartment can be from a faulty seal which is located between the HVAC case and the firewall. The water can drain out of the tube (unrestricted) – then run back to the firewall and leak into the passenger compartment, underneath the carpet. This is actually quite common with vehicles that don’t use a rubber “L” shaped hose on the plastic drain tube. Chrysler dealers (especially when vehicles are still under warranty) will sometimes install a simple rubber o-ring onto the plastic drain. When the water starts to run back on the underside of the tube towards the firewall it meets the o-ring. When water touches the o-ring, that causes it to drip downward instead of traveling the full distance to the firewall and entering the passenger compartment past the faulty seal.

The Chrysler Sebring pictured at the beginning of this article has a separate drain tube that attaches to the firewall which prevents the o-ring fix from being used. The problem is that the drain tube attaches to the firewall and NOT the drain on the case. If the seal is bad, the water can leak inside the car regardless of the firewall mounted hose. In cases like that (the Sebring and also Stratus) – the evaporator case has to be removed and the seal replaced or resealed. On every evaporator I replaced (any make/model) – I would always apply “Right Stuff” sealer to the bottom portion of the seal, to prevent a water leak after I’ve had the case out. Having to remove the case to repair the leak is obviously the worst case scenario, but sometimes it can’t be avoided.

Another cause of water leaking into the passenger compartment can be the HVAC case seams simply leaking. On the Chevrolet Cavalier and Cobalt the HVAC case uses a groove and tongue system that has no sealer from the factory. If the case becomes slightly distorted, it can allow water to blow past this seam and leak onto the carpet near the drain. The evaporator case has welded plastic rivets, that holds the housing together; if the case is removed, the welds have to be drilled out to separate it. When the case is apart, a sealer can be used like silicone or Right Stuff (my preference) in the seams. When putting the housing pieces back together screws are installed in holes that are provided. It is possible that the seams near the drain can be sealed externally with a sealer on the Cavalier or Cobalt. It is necessary for the sealer to work, that the area it is being applied to is completely dry. It’s also necessary to allow plenty of time for it to dry before running the AC.

Question: I have a Mitsubishi that leaks water on the driver’s side and wets the carpet. Could this be condensation from the air conditioner? If so how can I repair the leak?

Answer: The evaporator drain is on the driver’s side on some Mitsubishi models. If the drain seal is bad the water can run back inside, usually underneath the carpet. On the Mitsubishi Endeavor, the drain cannot be seen from the outside of the vehicle. I have been successful with the Endeavor and other Mitsubishi models, resealing around the drain without removing the case. 1. I removed the gas pedal and pulled the carpet back. 2. Removed the bad seal from around the drain with a pick. 3. Dried the area thoroughly with compressed air. 4. Wore latex gloves and applied Right Stuff, forcing it around the drain and through the firewall. – A bit messy, but definitely worth a shot before removing the entire dash and case.

Question: Can I fix the drain with the use of silicone instead of Right Stuff?

Answer: Probably. However I prefer Right Stuff because it sticks to surfaces better and dries harder, more like rubber when it is fully cured.

Question: I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, should I try adding a hose to the drain or would the o-ring fix work for my van?

Answer: The plastic drain, will not accept an “L” shaped rubber hose, due to the slot that is cut out in the bottom part of the plastic tube (which is part of the case). The o-ring fix for your van should work well to prevent AC condensate from leaking back into the vehicle under the carpet. According to Chrysler TSB 24-001-06, this should work on all Dodge Caravans and Chrysler Town and Country vans from the year 2001-2006. The dealer/factory/OEM part number for the o-ring is 68001994AA, although any o-ring that fits over the plastic drain tube should work.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; to highlight http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/ac-water-leaks…car-how-to-fix/ 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Summary: This auto repair article covers the common problem of ”the key being stuck in the ignition.” The shift interlock system is usually the cause of the key being stuck in the ignition lock. We do a general overview of this problem as it is related to a wide range of vehicles and have a specific vehicle, a 2006 Jeep Liberty that has the problem too. As with all vehicle systems, it’s best to have an understanding of how the system works to be able to diagnose the problem properly.

There are several reasons why the key may be unable to be removed from the ignition switch. The ignition lock cylinder could have worn or fallen tumblers, binding the key and preventing it from being removed. In many cases though, the reason will be related to the shift interlock system. Normally the shifter has to be in park before the key is released and is able to be removed from the switch. The shifters that seem to be have the most problems recently (many Chrysler products) – are the ones which are mounted on the floor or in the center console. Some of the shifters today are made with plastic components that sometimes stick and will not spring into the proper position at times. These shifters are also located near cup holders, which pose another potential problem – SPILLED SODA. The gummy residue from spilled drinks can contribute to the problem of sticky shifter mechanisms. You see there is a cable that goes from the shifter to the ignition lock. The cable is called a shift interlock cable – once the shifter is put into the park position a small lever springs into action to move the cable. When the system is working properly, the interlock cable that is hooked up to the ignition lock (where the key goes) pushes an internal mechanism that in turn releases the key.

The vehicle pictured in this article, a 2006 Jeep Liberty four wheel drive; ended up having a problem in the shifter (not the cable) which was servicable only by replacement of the entire shifter assembly part # 1-52125305 AD. There is NO adjustment for the interlock cable on this vehicle. The shifter happened to be an updated part that required an updated interlock cable as well – part # 1-52109779 AG. The newly updated shifter had a smaller retaining area where the cable attaches, which prevented re-using the old inter lock cable. The shifter interlock release lever as stated before, was not springing forward enough to make the cable release the key in the ignition lock. To temporarily release the key, the lever for the interlock cable can be pushed forward with a screwdriver or by hand to allow enough travel for the cable to release the key. *The interlock cable is the smaller one on the left side.

If replacing the shifter and installing an updated interlock cable, following the steps below may be helpful.

Remove center console to access the shifter assembly. Disconnect the interlock cable and shifter cable from the shift lever assembly. Unplug the electrical connector at the rear of the shifter. Unbolt the four nuts and remove the assembly from the vehicle. Lower the steering column by using the tilt lever. Remove the two plastic trim collars. Turn the ignition switch to the run position and depress the tab below the key lock cylinder, while holding the tab pull the key and cylinder out of the column. Now the shift interlock cable can be removed. Reverse the procedure outlined for re-installing the new parts. 

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/cant-remove-key-from-ignition-auto-repair-blog/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Also see our repair blog on Jeep Liberty rear power window replacement.

Tags: Can't, Remove, Key, from, Ignition, Auto, Repair, Blog, interlock, cable, shifter, Jeep, Liberty

Summary: In this auto repair blog we cover the basic timing belt R&R procedure on common Mitsubishi 2.5, 3.0, 3.5 and 3.8 V-6 SOHC engines. These interference engines can sustain valve damage if the timing belt breaks. We’ve got suggestions that can help make the job of replacing the timing belt and/or water pump successful. Listed are different Chrysler and Mitsubishi models that use engines with the same basic design when it comes to water pump and timing belt replacement. Also a diagram for timing belt routing and marks for the 3.5 SOHC.

Replacement intervals can vary, Mitsubishi recommends timing belt replacement on most of the models we cover every 60,000 miles. Consider the fact that if a related component such as the water pump, idler pulleys, hydraulic tensioner, cam seals or crankshaft seal fails it can ruin any timing belt – old or new. Purchasing a timing belt kit that comes with the new idler pulleys should be considered. Also depending on the mileage, it may be a good idea to replace the hydraulic tensioner, oil seals and the water pump for extra insurance. As we stated in the summary, interference engines can be subjected to valve damage if the t-belt breaks or strips, so it’s important to take precautions to allow the new timing belt to last it’s expected service life. 

Basic timing belt instructions for the following vehicles.

• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Dodge Avenger 2.5 2497cc
• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Dodge Stratus 2.5 Liter 2497cc
• 2001, 2002 Dodge Stratus 3.0 2972cc
• 2003, 2004, 2005 Dodge Stratus 3.0 2972cc (Coupe)
• 1995, 1996, 1997Mitsubishi Galant 2.5 2497cc
• 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003Mitsubishi Galant 3.0 2972cc
• 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007Mitsubishi Galant 3.8 230ci
• 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 Mitsubishi Diamante 3.5 3497cc
• 97, 98, 99, 00, 01, 02 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5 SOHC engine
• 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse 3.0L 2972cc
• 2006, 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse 3.8L 3828cc
• 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 Mitsubishi Endeavor 3.8L 3797cc
• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5L 2497cc
• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000Chrysler Sebring 2.5L 2497cc (Coupe and Convertible)
• 2001, 2002Chrysler Sebring 3.0L 2972cc (Coupe)
• 2003, 2004, 2005Chrysler Sebring 3.0L 2972cc

The task of replacing a timing belt on the cars listed above is mostly the same, only slight differences are noted from model to model. Exact R&R instructions for a particular model and year can be obtained online, see our online auto repair manual page for more information. Subscriptions are offered in several different levels from Mitchell DIY (e-auto repair) and AllData - the lowest starting at around $11.99 from Mitchell DIY at the time this article is being written. No matter which is selected, either offer a great solution for accessing car repair info without a wait. Use the subscription for a timing belt project today and to refer back to it later for future projects. More DIY’ers are gaining the confidence to perform many money saving repairs themselves. This confidence comes from on-line help provided by on-line service manuals and the ability to ask a professional tech if they reach a sticking point on our car answers page.

When doing a timing belt or water pump on this type of engine, it’s always advisable to disconnect the battery’s ground cable. Do not turn the crankshaft or camshaft with the timing belt removed. Some terchnicians like to remove the spark plugs to make the engine turn easier but this is not required. Turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation which is to the right when looking at it from the front. Dont to rotate the crankshaft by turning either of the camshaft bolts. It’s always best to use tightening torque specifications provided by the manufacturer found in a repair manual.

1. Raise and support the vehicle. If doing this at home use a floor jack and jack stands to be safe in case the jack fails or the car shifts. Then the right front wheel is removed and then take off the splash shield (except Montero). If changing the water pump, drain the coolant by using the drain on the radiator or removing one end of the lower radiator hose and catching the coolant. 

2. The accessory belts can now be removed along with the pulley tensioner assemblies. Support the engine with a floor jack and a short piece of 2×4″ wood (except Montero). Remove the motor mount (except Montero) then remove timing belt covers. *Note that on the Montero the manual fan clutch will need to be removed. On some models the accessory bracket will need to be removed also. It will be obvious if the bracket will need to be taken off to remove the timing belt once the timing covers are removed.

3. Turn the crankshaft so that the engine is at top dead center, verify that it is at TDC with cam and crank timing marks – (if motor is still timed properly) as an additional precaution more marks can be made with white touch up paint or “white out” prior to timing belt removal.

4. Remove the hydraulic timing belt tensioner and offset idler. If re-using the hydraulic tensioner, it will be placed in a bench vise for compressing. The pin that holds the tensioner in place is called as grenade pin. A small drill bit can be used instead of a grenade pin if not available. If replacing the hydraulic tensioner with a new one, it will come with the grenade pin.

5. If replacing the waterpump – now is the time. Be sure to replace any seals or orings, leaks will be labor intensive to repair if care isn’t taken now to do the job properly. Crankshaft or camshaft seals can be changed now as well. New idlers are a good idea, if reusing the old ones be sure to check the bearings for smooth operation.

Installation is reverse of disassembly. Take extra time to insure that the timing marks are lined up correctly when the new belt is installed – nothing is worse than being off a tooth, except for having the timing off and bending valves.

 Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/09/mitsubishi-2-5-3-0-3-5-3-8-water-pump-or-timing-belt-replacement/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Also see our 2.4 Mitsubishi repair blog on t-belt replacement.

Tags: Mitsubishi, Dodge, chrysler, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 3.8, Water, Pump, Timing, Belt, Replacement