Summary: This article is on how to check for bent valves. Valves get bent most often on vehicles that have had a timing belt break or a timing chain jump a sprocket. Interference engines can allow the valves to crash into the pistons when the timing belt breaks due to the engine’s timing being out of synchronization. Some cars are more prone to having valve damage when the timing is off. We cover some of the more common manufacturers that seem to suffer from bent valves more than others, from timing belt failure. We have some tips on how to check for bent valves with the cylinder head still on the vehicle. Tools that help in determining if there’s bent valves listed also.

Valves normally will not just bend unless the engine has experienced some sort of trauma. A quick look down the spark plug holes with a borescope or video inspection camera may reveal if the top of the pistons have been hit with a piston. One other fairly quick check is to do a compression test of each cylinder while the spark plugs are out. If the timing is off slightly, the engine may still run, however the valve timing will be retarded which will result in low compression readings and low engine vacuum. Backfiring, lack of power and bogging are common symptoms of an engine that is not timed properly. If the valves are bent, they will not seat (close) properly which allows cylinder compression to leak past the valves. A cylinder leak down test can be performed with a leak down tester to help determine if an exhaust or intake valve could have a problem. When the cylinder leak down tester is inserted into a spark plug hole and air is introduced, air escaping from the throttle, indicates a an intake valve leaking; air leaking out of the exhaust indicates an exhaust valve leak. It’s important to understand that if the timing is off (meaning the crankshaft and camshafts are not synchronized properly) low compression readings will be the result. If the timing belt seems loose, the timing belt could have jumped, check the alignment of the timing marks before going any further. Jumped timing is usually caused by worn timing belts, timing chains, guides, tensioners, idler pulleys and even by water pumps that have excessive movement on vehicles that use the chain or belt to drive it (water pump). If timing has jumped one or more teeth, the cam timing will be off enough to cause low compression readings even though valve damage might not have occurred. After verifying the timing marks are lined up properly, a simple tool that can be used for checking for valve problems is a vacuum gauge. The vacuum gauge reading taken from a source on the intake should be around 20 inches of vacuum. If the gauge flutters excessively, either worn or bent valves could be the cause. Pulling a valve cover and looking for full rocker arm movement can also be one way to detect an valve problems. Look for full movement during the rotation of the engine.

More about cylinder leak down testing. When performing a cylinder leak down test, the cylinder being tested has to have the piston brought to the top position (TDC). When the cylinder being tested is at TDC, the intake and exhaust valves should be completely closed and the cylinder chamber should hold compression. The cylinder leak down tester typically has two gauges, like on the OTC5609. One gauge shows pressure that is introduced with shop air from the air compressor and the other gauge shows the amount of loss. In the example above, the first gauge shows that 28 psi of shop air is supplied to the cylinder and the second gauge is showing that there is a 35% loss of pressure which is acceptable. A small amount of loss is to be expected. If an abnormal percentage of loss is measured it’s time to diagnose and pinpoint where the pressure is going. To determine where a major loss of pressure is leaking; 1. Listen with a stethoscope in the crankcase through the oil fill with the cap removed – this could indicate worn rings. 2. Listen through the throttle plates on the intake – hissing there could be an indication of an intake valve problem. 3. And finally listen for a hissing out of the tail pipe – which could mean an exhaust valve is the issue. This process is repeated for each cylinder until the leak down has been pinpointed.

A repair manual can be checked to see if a particular car has an interference motor. Some designs allow for clearance of the valve and pistons even when the motor is spinning with improper timing. Other manufacturers have much closer tolerances which do not allow for clearance – this can allow valve and or piston damage when timing is not in sync for some reason. All Honda engines are interference engines, so when a Honda timing belt breaks it is quite possible that some valves could be bent when a timing belt or a related component fails. Sometimes though, Honda owners can get lucky and not have bent valves. It seems to matter how fast the engine RPM’s were at the time of failure – the faster the revolutions at the time the belt went, the more likely the valves have crashed into the pistons. The Daewoo Lanos seems to have an even higher chance of valve damage when a timing belt breaks. Most of the time ALL valves are bent on a 1.6 when the timing belt breaks on that model. As a side note, the Daewoo Lanos requires a special water pump/timing belt tool for adjusting the tension on the belt.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/checking-for-bent-valves-broken-timing-belt/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: check, for, bent, valves,, diagnosing, bent, valves,, causes, for, bent, valves

Ford has had a long history of coming up with unique ideas – Edsel case in point.

Summary: In this auto repair blog we cover some of the most common Ford mechanical issues in late model Ford vehicles. Learn how a minor tune up could lead to a several thousand dollar repair. Some of the most notable problems are with spark plugs ejecting (and breaking) – EGR systems, transmission failures and keys getting stuck in the ignition. Along with common problems, auto mechanics need specialty tools in some cases to make repairs; we cover those too.

Ford spark plugs ejecting while driving down the road is almost 100% unique to the Ford Motor Company. In some 4.6, 5.4 and 6.8 liter engines (most manufactured prior to 2003) the four aluminum threads give-way, allowing the spark plug to be FIRED one last time – as a projectile! Typically when the plug shoots out it breaks the ignition coil along the way. Ford dealers in most cases want to replace the affected cylinder head for the tune of around $3500. We have a better solution which has saved our customers hundreds of thousands of dollars over the past several years. Our fix is done in the vehicle and the spark plug port repair makes the threads stronger than new – it lasts the lifetime of the motor. Just what you expect from any spark plug threads, right?

Spark plug problems continue to plague Ford. After having engines that spit out spark plugs like a spud out of a potato cannon, Ford has had an epiphany… a better idea. On some 4.6 and 5.4 motors from around 2004 & up, the problem is a new one… Ford spark plugs are now breaking off left and right when unsuspecting owners or techs are attempting to perform minor tune-ups. Ford again out doing themselves with another better idea – the unique spark plug they have in 2004 and up Triton 3 valve engines has a large electrode shield which tends to stick with carbon build-up. The result in many cases is a broken spark upon removal. The threaded part comes out leaving the shield and many times a chunk of porcelain stuck, wedged with carbon down in the cylinder. This has become such a problem that Ford has issued a TSB outlining a procedure for changing spark plugs in affected vehicles. If the procedure doesn’t work, the cylinder head may need to be removed costing several thousand dollars at the dealer. We have discovered the best and least expensive specialty tool for removing broken spark plugs in these vehicles. The specialty tool has had a great track record, it’s the tool I would use if faced with this problem – the Lisle 65600.

Some other common problems with Fords are EGR low flow codes, which can mean EGR passages are clogged up and in many other cases it could just mean that the DPFE is bad.  Ford lean codes are really common and most of the time they are easily diagnosed and repaired. Transmission all-out failures seem to have been most common with Ford Explorers around the year 2000. Ford seems to have improved the quality and reliability of their transmissions in later models. Crown Victoria’s and other rear wheel drive cars around the year 2000 also had an issue with their transmissions. The problem was a shudder around 45 MPH. The problem was actually related to the torque converter. Some shops including the one I worked at (around 02-05 performed a transmission flush, changing all of the transmission fluid including what is in the converter. Most of the time the shudder would be taken care of, a small percentage of the time the transmission had to be removed and the torque converter would need to be replaced. Ford Focus cars had a huge problem with the ignition lock. The tumblers can wear and cause binding making it impossible in some cases to turn the key. For awhile at the shop I worked at prior to 2005, we were getting two or three a week towed in. If we were busy, we let the locksmith replace the ignition lock. It was a pain to remove the lock cylinder because the key needs to be turned to the on position before a release button could be pushed in to release the lock cylinder. Since the key would not turn – there lies the problem. Sometimes WD40 can be sprayed into the lock cylinder and vise grips can be attached to the key to be used as leverage. Of course the key can be broken if too much force is used, but sometimes by working the key back and forth the lock can be turned to the on position so that the lock cylinder can be removed and replaced. If that trick doesn’t work, extreme measures may have to be taken. The Focus is one of the few cars that you can get away with using a slide hammer to remove the ignition lock. It’s done by running a sheet metal screw into the slot where the key goes. Then the slide hammer can be attached to the screw with Vise grips. Whaling with the slide hammer will pull the lock out without breaking the ignition lock housing. Once it’s out of the ignition lock cylinder, it can be recoded to match the original key and installed. The locksmith that I used to talk with back then told me to never try the slide hammer method on any other vehicle because the housing would break, causing extensive damage to the steering column.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/common-ford-problems-and-specialty-tools/ to highlight  2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

On a final note, just want to let Ford lovers know, I too like Fords, in fact I once restored a 67 Mustang convertible – see my article on the cowl repair, along with pictures.

Tags: Common, Ford, Problems,, Specialty, Tools

Lisle Auto Tools manufacturing company was started in Clarinda, Iowa in 1903 by C.A. Lisle. The first tool his company manufactured surprisingly wasn’t an automotive tool at all, it was water well drilling equipment powered by a horse! Subsequent products were not automotive related either, remember old ringer washers? And how about the old style manual push mower? Some twenty years after the Lisle Corporation was first started, the tool company made its first automotive product.

The product was an automotive specialty tool for resurfacing Ford Model T valves. Since car engine valves were refaced every 20,000 miles back then, the specialty tool became an instant hit. Lisle’s automotive specialty tool line now is made up of more than 400 tools, most of them made in the USA, right there at the original Clarinda location.

With Lisle’s innovative specialty tools and prices that are amazingly low, Lisle continues to forge ahead developing very useful auto specialty tools for today’s and tomorrow’s automobiles. If you would like to see some of the Lisle automotive specialty tools we offer, remember there’s free shipping at $99 and no sales tax charged outside the state of Florida. 

Tags: lisle, auto, automotive, specialty, car, tools

Calvan 11/16″ drill bit used with air ratchet and 1/2″ socket.

DenLors tools has sold hundreds of the Calvan spark plug repair kits and has had no reported failures. We’ve answered many questions about Ford spark plug thread repairs over the last couple of years and have included them in various places on our site. Now in this auto repair blog ALL of the frequently asked questions to date are posted here in one central location, if you don’t see your question answered, feel free to use the comment form and ask. Included here are questions about repairing spark plug holes after Lisle, Time Sert, Big Sert, or other brands that are thicker than the Heli-Coil, but still have managed to fail and allow the spark plug to blow out AGAIN. We are not out to discredit or slam any other spark plug insert company, we just know from our customer feedback what works and what just works for awhile. The questions below answer questions from real customers with this real problem. We recommend the Calvan Ford spark plug insert repair kit as the best solution, the following will help show why.

Question:  Are there different size or oversize inserts available for the Calvan insert tool and are they included?

Answer:  There is only one size thread insert for the Calvan repair kit and 6 are included. There is only one size because once the Cal Van is installed, it will not blow out and there is no need for an oversize insert. A competitive brand  called “Timesert” has an oversize insert in case theirs fails, it’s called the Big Sert. The Calvan insert is even larger than the BigSert and Cal Van’s larger stronger design is one of the reasons it can last the life of the cylinder head.  To date the Calvan insert is the largest insert available, that’s the reason it can be used when competing brands fail.  

Question:  I have a 1999 Ford F150 with a 4.6 liter Triton engine with 126,000 miles on it. The number 3 spark plug blew out of the cylinder head. I called my local repair shop and was told that this was a common problem with this design engine because of the extremely thin (aluminum) casting in the spark plug area of the engine head, there is only about five threads for a spark plug. How is the Calvan insert better?

Answer:  While it is true there are only five threads for the spark plug in this design engine for the spark plug and the Calvan repair insert has five spark plug threads as well, the Calvan spark plug insert is steel not aluminum and the insert itself is held in place with ten external threads. The Calvan spark plug insert improves the design and durability at fraction of the cost of replacing the cylinder heads; and if replacing the heads they would have the same design weakness.

Question:  I am selling my truck as fast as I can get a spark plug to stay in long enough to get rid of it. I wanted to use a heli-coil because I won’t have to drill, but the thread tool isn’t long enough to reach in the spark plug recess, any suggestions?

Answer:  I personally recommend the Calvan spark plug repair kit because it is a better repair, but if you would rather use the thinner Heli-coil insert, the HEL5396-14 has the longer thread tool than the standard Heli-coil kit.

Question:  I have Ford van that has had a TimeSert installed previously, it has blown out and I want to know if the Calvan insert will work since the Time Sert has left a bigger hole now?

Answer:  Yes, the Calvan spark plug repair insert is larger and has worked well for our customers before, saving the expense of replacing the heads. Read on for more information.

Question:  I bought a rebuilt head and come to find out one of the spark plug holes had a repair insert, it blew out last week. The cylinder head has a warranty, but I cannot afford the down time of pulling thead all over again. Will the Calvan insert repair this hole?

Answer:  Yes, the Calvan insert is a thicker beefier repair that you don’t have to worry about. And I always tell our customers that when purchasing a rebuilt head of this type to be aware of the possibility that inferior repair inserts may be in the head. Buying a brand new head would insure that there are no cheap inserts, but you would be stuck with the original weak design. The Calvan thread insert repair saves down time, money and is stronger due to the material being steel alloy instead of aluminum like the original threads.

Question:  I need to know the size or dimension of the outside of the insert, to know if it will be large enough to repair the spark plug hole threads that have already been fixed once before?

Answer:  The outside diameter of the insert is .73″ or 18.65mm, this is measuring on the most outer part of the threads. If a HeliCoil or Timesert was used before in the original repair this will work well.

Question:  I have an insert that blew out after an engine rebuild, I can’t afford the down time to have the engine pulled AGAIN. The insert that’s still on the spark plug is not a thin Heli-Coil, it appears to be a Big Sert, which is the Time Sert oversize thread repair. My question is; Will the Calvan thread insert work in an engine after the BigSert has blown out? The outside diameter of the Big Sert is .63″ or 16mm.

Answer:  Yes, I can say this because the drill bit included in the Calvan 38900 spark plug repair kit is 11/16″ (.6875″ or 17.4mm) so what you’re telling me is you have a smaller hole than what the drill bit size is in our kit. So as long as the previous repair was drilled in the center, the Calvan will work great. Also the Calvan has a guide that fits in the spark plug recess so drilling and tapping will be centered every time, if you have a good view of where you’re working or not.

Question:  Does the CalVan insert accept the same spark plug or will I have to remember to use a different spark plug in the repaired port?

Answer:  The CalVan insert uses the same spark plug and has the identical taper and same number of threads, just stronger steel not aluminum.

Question:   The price for one insert seems high, are you sure I don’t get more than one insert for this price?

Answer:   I understand this seems like a lot but for an insert of this quality it’s like many things in life, you get what you pay for. Who wants to trust a weaker design insert to hold in a spark plug, if it fails on a coil over plug design it may break a $50 plus coil, require the job to be done over again, or worse cause extensive engine damage requiring the replacement of the head.

Question:  How long will the Calvan spark plug repair last?

Answer:  The Calvan inserts are designed to last the lifetime of the engine and are stronger than the original threads.

Calvan’s leak down tool to determine when the valves are closed.

Question:  Time Sert says “The only 100% way to know the valves are not open is to remove the valve cover and inspect the cam, making sure that it is not depressing the valves on the damaged spark plug hole.” Do I have to remove the valve cover with the Calvan Ford spark plug insert tool kit?

Answer:  No. The Calvan tool kit allows the mechanic to verify valves are closed with an included cylinder leak detector. Plug the rubber stopper from the leak detector into the spark plug hole with a low amount of air from an air compressor going through the hose. The rubber cone will pop out of the spark plug hole when the valves are closed. The video shows this as well.

Question:  How do I know all the aluminum metal shavings are out of the cylinder?

Answer:  A borescope is used to make sure all foreign debris is removed. A video inspection scope can be used as well, we have a fairly inexpensive video based scope, that in our opinion is better and easier to view than the fiber optic borescope shown in use in the instructional video.

Calvan’s metal sleeve or guide is used to center the drill bit and the tap.

Question:  I’m afraid I might start drilling or tapping the hole crooked, am I going to damage my head beyond repair?

Answer:  With the Calvan specialty tool kit that we sell, since it is made specifically for Ford 4.6, 5.4 and 6.8 Triton engines, it has a guide that fits into the spark plug recess to perfectly guide the drill and the tap making the repair centered, even in hard to access areas.

Question:  Will my spark plug be properly grounded through the engine, since the insert will have JB weld on the threads?

Answer:  I’ve only had one person ask this. The answer is yes. JB weld or Loctite with some other brand inserts is being used on the threads, but there is a large enough percentage of metal to metal contact that provides ground, to allow proper firing of the spark plug.

Question:  The Ford cylinder repair kit instructional video (showing the repair done with the engine on a stand) is good, but can this repair be done in the vehicle?

Answer:  Yes, the video is showing how the kit is used with an engine on a stand, however the tool kit is designed to be used on an engine that is in the vehicle.

Question:  There doesn’t seem to be much room under the cowl area of my truck. How can I drill in that tight area?

Answer:  This repair kit is used in tight areas, on trucks and even in vans. The drill bit, which is used in the guide so the hole is drilled in the correct position. And to allow drilling to be done in confined areas, the drilling is actually done with an air ratchet. The drill bit accepts a 1/2″  socket that is used with your air ratchet, so drilling is done on a right angle. The guide is also used with the thread tap, so making a perfectly centered hole is easy.  

Linking: Please reference this article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2008/12/ford-spark-plug-blow-outs-oversize-inserts-and-faqs/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: Ford, Spark, Plug, Blow, Outs, Oversize, Inserts, FAQ\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'s, timesert, bigsert

OTC 6521 Smoke Machine – Auto Specialty Tool

OK, so this smoke machine is an automotive specialty tool for Evaporative leak testing and not the type of smoke machine your kids will be wanting for Halloween. But, we have a great deal on the OTC 6521 smoke machine and decided to add it to our first annual Halloween, automotive tool sale. It’s on sale with free shipping and no sales tax charged outside the state of Florida (see current listing).

Engine Fault codes like P0440, P0442, P0455, P0456 and P0457 can be caused by EVAP system leaks. And for those pesky Evaporative codes, nothing beats having the right tool for the job. Leaks are the most common cause of EVAP codes and if it’s not just a loose gas cap, the OTC 6521 will provide a quick easy way to find the source of the leak.

Vacuum Leaks can also be traced easily with the OTC 6521 smoke machine. Fault codes for lean conditions like P0172 and P0174 are typically due to a vacuum leak. If the vacuum leak isn’t a huge obvious hissing leak, then a quick smoke check with the OTC6521 smoke machine will make short work of finding the source of the problem. Just remove any engine vacuum line and block off the throttle body and the smoke will reveal the leak.

Smoke Testing directions using the smoke machine can be viewed in much more detail in our exclusive tech article. The adapter cones that come with this smoke machine will allow much versatility when attaching the machine. Exhaust leaks are easy to find by using one of the included cones to attach to the tail pipe (after the car has cooled off). This is a particularly good test when a cracked exhaust manifold is suspected. So, why not consider a smoke machine for year round use? This smoke machine not only makes smoke, it makes money!

Tags: OTC6521, OTC, smoke, machine, OTC, 6521, Halloween, Tool, Sale, automotive, auto, specialty, evaporative, leak, testing, evap, test, codes

Equus 3140 Limited Time Halloween Tool Special – 10/31/2008 $219.95

For our Halloween Special, the Equus Innova 3140 Pro Scan Tool is on sale until midnight October 31, 2008 for $219.95 with free shipping within the continental US. The Equus Automotive scan tool (3140) has OBD I, OBD II and CAN (Controlled Area Network) capability. This means this tool will work for older cars prior to 1996 (OBD I) and later models after 1996 (OBD II) and will even work for OBD II models that use CAN protocol. OBD I cables are included for GM, Ford, Chrysler and Toyota and of course the OBD II connector works for all cars after 1996. The Equus 3140 also comes with an instructional video, in case you are less than familiar with scan tools. Comes with a written manual in English, Spanish and French. And if you are experienced in using scan tools you will find the Equus easy to use and you will appreciate the live data display. The 3-color LED display provides a quick indication of the vehicle’s readiness for an emissions test. For the DIY (Do It Yourself-er) or the professional mechanic, this a bargain automotive scan tool deal, don’t let it pass you by or it may haunt you.  

Tags: Halloween, Tool, Special, Equus, Innova, 3140, auto, automotive, tools, free, shipping, OBD, II, Scan, cars, mechanics, CAN, OBDI

KD 41540 – What’s in your tool box?

You may already know from reading our auto tool blog that DenLors Automotive tools sells a lot of Jump-n-Carry Jump boxes, OTC scanners, OTC tire pressure monitors, OTC auto specialty tools and Visual Optics video inspection scopes (and much more). But did you know that KD tools has introduced many so many neat automotive hand tools recently that we have had to make special provisions to keep up with the demand? This automotive tool blog is on five of KD Tools latest and greatest auto specialty tools at prices that won’t break the bank.  

KD 41540 rear brake caliper tool kit is a specialty hand tool kit that comes in a nice storage case, it has many rear disc caliper piston adapters to fit a variety of cars. This has been one of the most popular new mechanics tool kits recently due to it’s low price and range of use. Most rear disc brake caliper pistons wind back in, due to the emergency brake being built into the caliper. This tool makes screwing the rear disc caliper piston back into the caliper much easier when performing a brake job.

Low Profile Magnetic Oil Drain Socket Set by KD Tools

KD 3870 is a magnetic oil drain plug socket set that comes with a low profile gear ratchet and storage case. The neat thing about this tool kit is that the magnetic sockets are color coded and have a thumb wheel design, they make handling hot oil drain plugs much easier, since you can hold onto the socket instead of the hot drain plug to keep from getting burned while doing that quick oil change. The low profile GearRatchet (KD Tools owns GearWrench) fits in tight areas like between the oil drain plug and most car’s sub-frames. Some tech’s keep this oil drain plug socket set attached to their oil drain right along side the oil filter pliers.

Serpentine Belt Set by KD Tools

KD 3680 is a really cool serpentine belt tool set that makes accessing hard to reach serpentine belt tensioners much easier. Common sizes are included in this kit to fit most serpentine belt tensioners and the long narrow extension arm attaches to the GearWrench at any position and then the crows foot or socket goes in the end of the GearWrench. This mechanics tool set makes frustrating serpentine belts a breeze to change. Once you use this KD tool set you’ll never want to use a regular ratchet or wrench again to change a car’s serpentine belt.

One Man Brake Bleeding Kit by KD Tools

KD 3712 provides a quick and efficient way to bleed brakes. Being able to bleed the brakes without having someone to pump the brakes saves a lot of time. This tool kit allows the auto mechanic to place the auto-fill brake fluid bottle in place before raising the car up on the lift, to bleed the brakes. The vacuum bleeder works fast, so having the auto fill prevents accidentally emptying the master cylinder and getting air in the system. The vacuum brake bleeder also helps to prevent having slippery brake fluid on the shop’s floor, that manual brake bleeding usually results in. Many mechanics are upselling a brake flush to their customers that are in for a regular oil change. If the customer watches while to flush is being done, it will look much more professional to use this brake bleeding kit than to allow the brake fluid to drip down on the floor.   

Thread On Fan Clutch Tool Set by KD Tools

KD 3472 is for fan clutch assemblies that thread on to the water pump instead of bolt on. These type of fan clutches used to be found only on Fords, now they can be found on other makes as well. When changing a water pump or fan clutch this tool makes life easier. The narrow access to the fan clutch wrench flats requires a slim design tool to reach it comfortably. The KD 3472 not only has the wrench, it has the holder so that keeps the water pump from spinning while removing the car’s fan clutch. One vehicle that has a thermostatic fan clutch that is prone to failure is the Jeep Liberty. The fan clutch sensor wires commonly get chafed, sometimes causing a fault code. Flat rate time for changing the fan clutch on the Liberty is 2.8 hours, this tool makes the job go much easier, one job could pay for the tool.          

Northstar water pump replacement, not so bad with correct mechanics tool

This automotive tool blog features a specialty auto mechanics tool for changing the Northstar water pump. The Cadillac Northstar water pump is located at the rear of the engine. As the picture shows, there is a belt cover over the water pump drive belt at the rear of the front valve cover. The special mechanics tool required for this job used to be only available in more expensive specialty tool brands like Schley Products. If the tool is to be used frequently, the more expensive version of the specialty may be the best choice. If the mechanic only changes a few of these a year, the Lisle Northstar mechanics tool will work just fine. 

Remove the air cleaner to access the water pump

Mechanics tools make life easier, in fact without this specialty tool, replacement is simply is not possible. First access the water pump by removing the air cleaner housing and swing the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) out of the way. Remove the water pump drive belt cover and belt. The water pump fits inside the coolant housing.

Access by securing outer coolant housing out of the way

Auto Tools required up this point are everyday, common auto mechanic tools that most mechanics will already have in their tool box. Of course the spring hose clamps can be removed much easier with the correct hose clamp tools as opposed to regular pliers. The professional auto technician more than likely already has a nice set of Mayhew hose clamp tools.

Northstar water pump revealed

This Waterpump tool is only used on the Northstar. The water pump is a twist in design. The Northstar water pump socket slips in around the waterpump and catches the tabs. A simple twist and the water pump comes out. Be sure that the old o-ring seal is removed. The rubber seal comes out easily, and the good thing is there’s no gasket scraping needed for the water pump itself. Gasket removal is needed for many other water pumps, but this one has a removable seal and it is easy to access. If there is any corrosion build up on the housing this should be removed. Gluing the new seals in place may be necessary to hold them in place for installation.

Lisle waterpump tool use

Water-pump Removed

Automotive specialty tools like this makes certain jobs a piece of cake. Without this specific mechanic tool, the tech finds himself down the creek, well you know the rest.

Tags: Northstar, Water, Pump, waterpump, replacement, Job, Mechanics, Tools, auto, tools, specialty, automotive, lisle, schley, products, training, article