Heater hose clamps like pictured can be removed easily with special hose clamp tools.

Summary: In this auto service repair article, we cover how car heaters work. Knowing how the automotive heater system is designed to work, allows the car owner or auto tech to diagnose problems more quickly and easily. Car heaters are designed much differently than home heaters, therefore diagnosing and repairing auto heaters requires different service procedures. Auto service tips and information provided in this car repair article is written by a master automotive technician that has many years in the field. The info. is provided in simple language that is easy to understand by anyone – experienced in auto service or not.

It’s always best to have a basic understanding on how a particular system works, to be able to diagnose problems easier. When a car heater blows cold air, there are several possibilities that should be considered. Read on to to learn more. Many people are unaware that there’s NOT an electric element in a car’s heater system. Heater elements are common in portable heaters used in the home – however automobiles use coolant from the car engine’s cooling system to transfer heat to the passenger compartment, through the use of a heater core. That’s why a car heater doesn’t start blowing warm air until the vehicle reaches operating temperature. The heater core looks similar to a small radiator – it has coils and fins to transfer heat to the air.  The car engine’s coolant is pumped through the heater core while the fan (also called a blower), pushes air through the heater core fins. When air blows through the heater core fins the air is warmed and in turn heats up the passenger compartment.

One of the most common causes of a car heater blowing cold air is from low coolant. As stated before, coolant is what warms the heater core – if the coolant is low, there may not be enough heat transfer from the heater core to the air to heat the passenger compartment. When it ’s cold outside, low coolant may not cause the engine to overheat right away. If it did cause the engine’s temperature gauge to read hot, the driver would be warned and low coolant would be discovered more quickly. The point is, when checking the heater be sure the radiator is full of coolant. Once the coolant is verified to be full, feel the heater hoses that go to the firewall. With the engine at normal operating temperature, BOTH of the heater hoses should be hot to the touch. If only one is hot, this indicates there is a blockage in the heater core or there is air trapped in the heater core preventing proper flow. Using a Lisle coolant funnel is best way to remove air from a car’s cooling system. If the coolant is really brown, has been neglected, or if stop leak has been used at some time in the car’s service history, the heater core could be stopped up. The blockage can sometimes be cleared  by removing the heater hoses and using a garden hose with a sprayer to flush the heater core out. If neither of the hoses are hot to the touch, there could also be a malfunctioning heater control valve, if used on the model you’re working on. Check for presence of a heater control valve by following the heater hoses back to the engine. Sometimes, a vacuum line could have a break causing there to be no vacuum to operate the valve. Also it should be noted that if this is your first winter with this car (and you’re unfamiliar with the car’s repair history), the previous owner could have by-passed the heater core due to a leak. When a heater core leaks, the passenger side carpet will become soaked with coolant. This should not be confused with an AC (condensation) water leak. The labor involved to change a heater core is usually several hours depending on the model. This is the reason some people will loop the heater hoses together with a 5/8″ union – by-passing a leaking heater core instead of repairing it properly.

After the previous steps are taken to insure the heater core is in the loop, the coolant is full and hot water is circulating in and out of the heater core, read the following regarding the HVAC (Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning) case. Doors within the heater case are either controlled by electric actuators, cables or vacuum motors. Adjust the heat control to both extremes while listening for movement of the blend door. With a cable operated heater door it’s easiest to hear the door thump when it closes. If the door is not operating, find the door that controls the airflow across the heater core. If there is an electric motor that controls the door, tapping on it can sometimes make it work temporarily for testing purposes. A vacuum operated motor needs vacuum to work, so using a hand-held vacuum pump for testing is usually the easiest way to check operation. If the vacuum motor does not hold vacuum, the diaphragm is leaking requiring replacement. To go deeper into diagnosis of the AC control head’s function and diagnosis, specific vehicle repair diagrams may be needed or help from technician that has experience with the specific model may be most beneficial.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; to highlight http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/car-heater-blows-cold-auto-service-tips/ 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Related Article

The Lisle Coolant Fill Funnel to Remove Trapped Air

The Robinair AC Machine is one of the most popular units for car air conditioning service.

Summary: In this auto repair article we discuss the reasons why a car’s air conditioning system may leak water inside the vehicle. Sometimes the fix is simple and other times the repair can be much more labor intensive. As an automotive technician that’s worked over 25 years in Florida, I’ve dealt with this problem many times on different models. If leaks aren’t fixed quickly, the carpet and padding underneath can become a breeding ground for mildew and harmful bacteria. People with certain allergies can be affected the most.

There are several reasons why a car’s AC can leak or drip water into the passenger compartment. First it’s important to understand that water dripping from under the car when the A/C is on is normal. It’s only when the water drips on the inside of the car there’s an issue. Varying amounts of water dripping (condensation) under the car is to be expected, depending on the level of humidity in the air. The higher the humidity, the higher the volume of water can be seen dripping under the car from the evaporator drain tube. I’ve actually had customers that complained because they thought that too much water was dripping under the car after an AC repair. On several occasions customers would say “It never had that much water draining out before.” It’s funny how some car owners pay closer attention to certain things after a repair has been made. After explaining that it’s a normal for condensation (water) to accumulate on the evaporator fins, drip to the bottom of the case and run out the drain tube; only then they understand that there’s not something wrong.

One of the most common causes of water dripping inside the car is because of a clogged drain. If the evaporator drain becomes restricted, the water backs up in the HVAC (Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning) case. The case is designed to allow water to travel to the bottom and out the drain tube. The case is not designed to be completely water tight in the event the drain becomes clogged. Sometimes if excess water remains in the case, some of it can blow out of the AC vents. In extreme cases the water can damage the blower motor and/or short out the blower resistor. Usually the blockage is caused by debris in the case, like leaves or dirt. Many times the evaporator drain can be cleared by blowing compressed air into the drain from the firewall side. A metal coat hanger can also be used to stick into the drain tube to loosen the debris and allow it to exit with the water.

Another common cause of water entering the passenger compartment can be from a faulty seal which is located between the HVAC case and the firewall. The water can drain out of the tube (unrestricted) – then run back to the firewall and leak into the passenger compartment, underneath the carpet. This is actually quite common with vehicles that don’t use a rubber “L” shaped hose on the plastic drain tube. Chrysler dealers (especially when vehicles are still under warranty) will sometimes install a simple rubber o-ring onto the plastic drain. When the water starts to run back on the underside of the tube towards the firewall it meets the o-ring. When water touches the o-ring, that causes it to drip downward instead of traveling the full distance to the firewall and entering the passenger compartment past the faulty seal.

The Chrysler Sebring pictured at the beginning of this article has a separate drain tube that attaches to the firewall which prevents the o-ring fix from being used. The problem is that the drain tube attaches to the firewall and NOT the drain on the case. If the seal is bad, the water can leak inside the car regardless of the firewall mounted hose. In cases like that (the Sebring and also Stratus) – the evaporator case has to be removed and the seal replaced or resealed. On every evaporator I replaced (any make/model) – I would always apply “Right Stuff” sealer to the bottom portion of the seal, to prevent a water leak after I’ve had the case out. Having to remove the case to repair the leak is obviously the worst case scenario, but sometimes it can’t be avoided.

Another cause of water leaking into the passenger compartment can be the HVAC case seams simply leaking. On the Chevrolet Cavalier and Cobalt the HVAC case uses a groove and tongue system that has no sealer from the factory. If the case becomes slightly distorted, it can allow water to blow past this seam and leak onto the carpet near the drain. The evaporator case has welded plastic rivets, that holds the housing together; if the case is removed, the welds have to be drilled out to separate it. When the case is apart, a sealer can be used like silicone or Right Stuff (my preference) in the seams. When putting the housing pieces back together screws are installed in holes that are provided. It is possible that the seams near the drain can be sealed externally with a sealer on the Cavalier or Cobalt. It is necessary for the sealer to work, that the area it is being applied to is completely dry. It’s also necessary to allow plenty of time for it to dry before running the AC.

Question: I have a Mitsubishi that leaks water on the driver’s side and wets the carpet. Could this be condensation from the air conditioner? If so how can I repair the leak?

Answer: The evaporator drain is on the driver’s side on some Mitsubishi models. If the drain seal is bad the water can run back inside, usually underneath the carpet. On the Mitsubishi Endeavor, the drain cannot be seen from the outside of the vehicle. I have been successful with the Endeavor and other Mitsubishi models, resealing around the drain without removing the case. 1. I removed the gas pedal and pulled the carpet back. 2. Removed the bad seal from around the drain with a pick. 3. Dried the area thoroughly with compressed air. 4. Wore latex gloves and applied Right Stuff, forcing it around the drain and through the firewall. – A bit messy, but definitely worth a shot before removing the entire dash and case.

Question: Can I fix the drain with the use of silicone instead of Right Stuff?

Answer: Probably. However I prefer Right Stuff because it sticks to surfaces better and dries harder, more like rubber when it is fully cured.

Question: I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, should I try adding a hose to the drain or would the o-ring fix work for my van?

Answer: The plastic drain, will not accept an “L” shaped rubber hose, due to the slot that is cut out in the bottom part of the plastic tube (which is part of the case). The o-ring fix for your van should work well to prevent AC condensate from leaking back into the vehicle under the carpet. According to Chrysler TSB 24-001-06, this should work on all Dodge Caravans and Chrysler Town and Country vans from the year 2001-2006. The dealer/factory/OEM part number for the o-ring is 68001994AA, although any o-ring that fits over the plastic drain tube should work.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; to highlight http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/ac-water-leaks…car-how-to-fix/ 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Summary: This auto repair article covers the common problem of ”the key being stuck in the ignition.” The shift interlock system is usually the cause of the key being stuck in the ignition lock. We do a general overview of this problem as it is related to a wide range of vehicles and have a specific vehicle, a 2006 Jeep Liberty that has the problem too. As with all vehicle systems, it’s best to have an understanding of how the system works to be able to diagnose the problem properly.

There are several reasons why the key may be unable to be removed from the ignition switch. The ignition lock cylinder could have worn or fallen tumblers, binding the key and preventing it from being removed. In many cases though, the reason will be related to the shift interlock system. Normally the shifter has to be in park before the key is released and is able to be removed from the switch. The shifters that seem to be have the most problems recently (many Chrysler products) – are the ones which are mounted on the floor or in the center console. Some of the shifters today are made with plastic components that sometimes stick and will not spring into the proper position at times. These shifters are also located near cup holders, which pose another potential problem – SPILLED SODA. The gummy residue from spilled drinks can contribute to the problem of sticky shifter mechanisms. You see there is a cable that goes from the shifter to the ignition lock. The cable is called a shift interlock cable – once the shifter is put into the park position a small lever springs into action to move the cable. When the system is working properly, the interlock cable that is hooked up to the ignition lock (where the key goes) pushes an internal mechanism that in turn releases the key.

The vehicle pictured in this article, a 2006 Jeep Liberty four wheel drive; ended up having a problem in the shifter (not the cable) which was servicable only by replacement of the entire shifter assembly part # 1-52125305 AD. There is NO adjustment for the interlock cable on this vehicle. The shifter happened to be an updated part that required an updated interlock cable as well – part # 1-52109779 AG. The newly updated shifter had a smaller retaining area where the cable attaches, which prevented re-using the old inter lock cable. The shifter interlock release lever as stated before, was not springing forward enough to make the cable release the key in the ignition lock. To temporarily release the key, the lever for the interlock cable can be pushed forward with a screwdriver or by hand to allow enough travel for the cable to release the key. *The interlock cable is the smaller one on the left side.

If replacing the shifter and installing an updated interlock cable, following the steps below may be helpful.

Remove center console to access the shifter assembly. Disconnect the interlock cable and shifter cable from the shift lever assembly. Unplug the electrical connector at the rear of the shifter. Unbolt the four nuts and remove the assembly from the vehicle. Lower the steering column by using the tilt lever. Remove the two plastic trim collars. Turn the ignition switch to the run position and depress the tab below the key lock cylinder, while holding the tab pull the key and cylinder out of the column. Now the shift interlock cable can be removed. Reverse the procedure outlined for re-installing the new parts. 

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/cant-remove-key-from-ignition-auto-repair-blog/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Also see our repair blog on Jeep Liberty rear power window replacement.

Tags: Can't, Remove, Key, from, Ignition, Auto, Repair, Blog, interlock, cable, shifter, Jeep, Liberty

Summary: In this auto repair blog we cover the basic timing belt R&R procedure on common Mitsubishi 2.5, 3.0, 3.5 and 3.8 V-6 SOHC engines. These interference engines can sustain valve damage if the timing belt breaks. We’ve got suggestions that can help make the job of replacing the timing belt and/or water pump successful. Listed are different Chrysler and Mitsubishi models that use engines with the same basic design when it comes to water pump and timing belt replacement. Also a diagram for timing belt routing and marks for the 3.5 SOHC.

Replacement intervals can vary, Mitsubishi recommends timing belt replacement on most of the models we cover every 60,000 miles. Consider the fact that if a related component such as the water pump, idler pulleys, hydraulic tensioner, cam seals or crankshaft seal fails it can ruin any timing belt – old or new. Purchasing a timing belt kit that comes with the new idler pulleys should be considered. Also depending on the mileage, it may be a good idea to replace the hydraulic tensioner, oil seals and the water pump for extra insurance. As we stated in the summary, interference engines can be subjected to valve damage if the t-belt breaks or strips, so it’s important to take precautions to allow the new timing belt to last it’s expected service life. 

Basic timing belt instructions for the following vehicles.

• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Dodge Avenger 2.5 2497cc
• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Dodge Stratus 2.5 Liter 2497cc
• 2001, 2002 Dodge Stratus 3.0 2972cc
• 2003, 2004, 2005 Dodge Stratus 3.0 2972cc (Coupe)
• 1995, 1996, 1997Mitsubishi Galant 2.5 2497cc
• 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003Mitsubishi Galant 3.0 2972cc
• 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007Mitsubishi Galant 3.8 230ci
• 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 Mitsubishi Diamante 3.5 3497cc
• 97, 98, 99, 00, 01, 02 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5 SOHC engine
• 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse 3.0L 2972cc
• 2006, 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse 3.8L 3828cc
• 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 Mitsubishi Endeavor 3.8L 3797cc
• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5L 2497cc
• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000Chrysler Sebring 2.5L 2497cc (Coupe and Convertible)
• 2001, 2002Chrysler Sebring 3.0L 2972cc (Coupe)
• 2003, 2004, 2005Chrysler Sebring 3.0L 2972cc

The task of replacing a timing belt on the cars listed above is mostly the same, only slight differences are noted from model to model. Exact R&R instructions for a particular model and year can be obtained online, see our online auto repair manual page for more information. Subscriptions are offered in several different levels from Mitchell DIY (e-auto repair) and AllData - the lowest starting at around $11.99 from Mitchell DIY at the time this article is being written. No matter which is selected, either offer a great solution for accessing car repair info without a wait. Use the subscription for a timing belt project today and to refer back to it later for future projects. More DIY’ers are gaining the confidence to perform many money saving repairs themselves. This confidence comes from on-line help provided by on-line service manuals and the ability to ask a professional tech if they reach a sticking point on our car answers page.

When doing a timing belt or water pump on this type of engine, it’s always advisable to disconnect the battery’s ground cable. Do not turn the crankshaft or camshaft with the timing belt removed. Some terchnicians like to remove the spark plugs to make the engine turn easier but this is not required. Turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation which is to the right when looking at it from the front. Dont to rotate the crankshaft by turning either of the camshaft bolts. It’s always best to use tightening torque specifications provided by the manufacturer found in a repair manual.

1. Raise and support the vehicle. If doing this at home use a floor jack and jack stands to be safe in case the jack fails or the car shifts. Then the right front wheel is removed and then take off the splash shield (except Montero). If changing the water pump, drain the coolant by using the drain on the radiator or removing one end of the lower radiator hose and catching the coolant. 

2. The accessory belts can now be removed along with the pulley tensioner assemblies. Support the engine with a floor jack and a short piece of 2×4″ wood (except Montero). Remove the motor mount (except Montero) then remove timing belt covers. *Note that on the Montero the manual fan clutch will need to be removed. On some models the accessory bracket will need to be removed also. It will be obvious if the bracket will need to be taken off to remove the timing belt once the timing covers are removed.

3. Turn the crankshaft so that the engine is at top dead center, verify that it is at TDC with cam and crank timing marks – (if motor is still timed properly) as an additional precaution more marks can be made with white touch up paint or “white out” prior to timing belt removal.

4. Remove the hydraulic timing belt tensioner and offset idler. If re-using the hydraulic tensioner, it will be placed in a bench vise for compressing. The pin that holds the tensioner in place is called as grenade pin. A small drill bit can be used instead of a grenade pin if not available. If replacing the hydraulic tensioner with a new one, it will come with the grenade pin.

5. If replacing the waterpump – now is the time. Be sure to replace any seals or orings, leaks will be labor intensive to repair if care isn’t taken now to do the job properly. Crankshaft or camshaft seals can be changed now as well. New idlers are a good idea, if reusing the old ones be sure to check the bearings for smooth operation.

Installation is reverse of disassembly. Take extra time to insure that the timing marks are lined up correctly when the new belt is installed – nothing is worse than being off a tooth, except for having the timing off and bending valves.

 Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/09/mitsubishi-2-5-3-0-3-5-3-8-water-pump-or-timing-belt-replacement/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Also see our 2.4 Mitsubishi repair blog on t-belt replacement.

Tags: Mitsubishi, Dodge, chrysler, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 3.8, Water, Pump, Timing, Belt, Replacement

Image courtesy of PansyPatrol

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/09/rusted-bleeder-screws-bleeding-brakes/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Also see our related article on master cylinder bench bleeding. Have questions for a brake expert? See our car questions page to find a brake certified specialist now.

Tags: Rusted, Bleeder, Screws, Bleeding, Brakes

Summary: Headlight restoration kits reviewed for clearing up yellow hazy headlights. Restore head lights to clear condition for safety and better appearance.

We recently had a customer that owns a car wash purchase 100 of Bright Solutions Headlamp Restoration kits. This of course peaked our interest and we had to ask ourselves the question. “Why would a car wash business purchase so many of these kits?” Obviously they were impressed with the performance of the product. Pictures are worth a thousand words, that’s why in this article we’ve decided to let them do most of the talking. Below we show before and after pictures of our test run with this product .Our test subject is a 1997 Saturn with 139,000 miles on it. The headlights are yellow and hazy.

The first step is to determine how severe the weather damage is to the lenses. If there are no visible scratches, the kit can be used without the use of the sandpaper squares. Regardless of how bad the condition is, wet sanding will speed up the process.

The product claims there is enough product in this kit to restore one car’s headlights. This is true, but if a person was willing to go to a local parts store and purchase some additional fine grit sand paper and towels, the kit could be stretched to work on several cars. There is enough pretreatment, cleaner and restorer to work on more than one vehicle.

Cleaning
1. Remove all the contents of the package. Select one of the towels and fold in quarters. Thoroughly shake the Bright Solutions water based pretreatment before applying to the towel. Saturate the towel with the water based pretreatment and clean the entire lens with a circular motion. Continue cleaning and flipping the towel using all surfaces. This should start to reveal a clearer lens just in the first step.

Sanding
2. Use the plastic bubble packaging to hold water for the wet sanding process. Start with wet 1500 grit sandpaper moving back and forth in a straight motion (not circular). Next use the the 2000 grit sandpaper in the same manner.

Polishing
3. Using a clean towel use the shaken bottle of headlamp cleaner. Polish the entire lens with a circular motion. Once the lens appears highly polished, use a clean towel to remove remaining polish as if buffing a car’s surface.

Shine Restorer/Preserver
4. Out of direct sunlight, apply a liberal amount of shine restorer across the lens avoiding runs. Apply wet and allow to dry. Multiple coats can increase shine and protective properties. For the manufacturers directions see the pdf manual page 1 and page 2.

Conclusion: The Bright Solutions headlamp restoration worked well, it definitely worked as advertised. For headlights that are badly pitted, a more aggressive type restoration system may be required like the 3M Headlight Restoration kit that uses an electric drill. We also have a Professional Headlamp Restoration Kit with Air Tools for automotive repair and car detailing businesses that want to increase revenue by adding this valuable service (this kit pays for itself quickly).

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/08/headlight-restoration-review-cleaner-for-yellow-head-lights/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: Headlight, Restoration, Review, Cleaner, for, Yellow, Head, Lights

Summary: In this automotive repair article we cover timing belt R&R instructions on the Mitsubishi 2.4 L SOHC engine and the recommended replacement interval. We list the different makes and models that use this particular engine. Automotive repair questions and answers are included along with a diagram for timing belt marks.

The Mitsubishi 2.4 Liter SOHC engine is used in the Eclipse, Galant and Outlander. Many people are unaware that the engine is also used in the Chrysler Sebring and Dodge Stratus.  It’s important to know that the 2.4 is an interference engine that may end up with bent valves and possibly damaged pistons if the timing belt strips or breaks during driving. The motor includes a main timing belt and a smaller balance shaft belt. Both of these should be replaced at the same time. The manufacturer recommended replacement interval is every 60,000 miles.

The job of replacing the timing belts on this engine is basically the same, regardless of which vehicle it is in. Specific directions for a particular model and year can be obtained online with ALLData for a small subscription fee. The subscription is offered in several different levels and is very affordable. It’s a great way to access information without waiting. Use the repair information for a timing belt project today and to refer back to it later if other repairs need to be made at  a later date. Many people are doing more of their own maintenance with the help of free auto repair information like in this blog and other repair info accessed on-line including routing and torque specifications. Car questions answered in a timely manner by professional auto technicians on our car question page can sometimes make the difference that provides a do it-yourselfer with the extra information they need to complete a job at home successfully and save hundreds of dollars. 

There are several precautions keep in mind. It’s always best to disconnect the battery’s ground cable, do not turn the crank shaft or camshaft with the timing belt removed. Some people prefer to remove the spark plugs to make the engine easier to turn although this is not necessary. Turn the crank shaft in the normal direction of rotation which is clockwise. Do not try to turn the crankshaft by turning the camshaft bolt. It’s always best to use tightening torque specifications provided by the manufacturer.

1. Raise and support the vehicle. If doing this at home use a floor jack and jack stands for safety. Then the right front wheel is removed and then the splash shield. It’s easiest to loosen the water pump bolts before removing the accessory belts, otherwise the entire pulley will turn. Then remove the alternator, AC and power steering belts. After the belts are removed the upper timing cover can be taken off.

2. Always start with the engine at top dead center compression stroke with the timing marks aligned. Find top dead center by removing the #1 spark plug which is closest to the front of the engine and placing a screwdriver or 1/4″ extension down the hole. Turn the crank slowly and make sure it doesn’t bind – when the tool that was inserted reaches the highest point, top dead center is reached. Verify with marks.

3. Toward the engine with a block of wood on the floor jack positioned underneath the oil pan. Once the engine is lifted up slightly a motor mount can then be removed.

4. Leave the main crankshaft bolt in place. Remove the smaller bolts holding the crank pulley in place pulley to the side. Then remove the lower timing belt cover.

5. Now look for the timing belt marks and make sure they are aligned. I recommend making some of your own marks as well with white touch up paint or white out. Of course this will not be possible if replacing a broken or stripped belt. But when replacing a belt for maintenance I like the additional assurance, that the extra marks give me.

6. The main belt’s tensioner is hydraulic. The 12 mm bolts are removed and then he tensioner can be placed in a bench vice to be compressed. The pin to hold a tensioner in place is sometimes referred to by mechanics as grenade pins. Sometimes a small drill bit can be used instead of the specific pin. If you are replacing a tensioner it will come with the correct pin.

7. Remove the main timing belt then the balance shaft belt can be removed. It may be necessary to take the crankshaft position sensor off slightly turning the crank to remove the small belt. Be careful not to bend the shield (reluctor) at the back of the pulley this can affect the reading crank shaft position sensor. It some cases it may be necessary to remove the large crank bolt and slide the timing belt pulley and the reluctor out slightly.

8. Now is a good time to replace any pulleys that show any signs of wear. Spin the pulleys to check them for smoothness and side movement. If a tensioner or idler pulley freezes up it can cause a new timing belt to fail. If there are any signs of oil leaks from the seals now is the time to replace cam and crank seals if necessary. At this point you are right at the water pump so replacing that should also be consideration. Replacement is basically reversing the procedure above.

2.4 Mitsubishi Engines are used in the following vehicles. Mitsubishi Eclipse 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 & 2005 – Galant 99,00,01, 02, 03, 04 & 05 – Outlander 2003 Chrysler Sebring 2001,  02,  03, 04 & 2005 – Dodge Stratus 2001, 02, 03, 04 & 05

For a large pdf of the timing belt marks click the image above. 

Timing Belt Replacement Questions and Answers

Question: Is there any special holding tool needed like I’ve seen for Honda’s to remove the main timing belt pulley bolt on the crankshaft?

Answer: No. Just a regular 1/2″ impact gun works well to remove the bolt on the Mitsubishi.

Question: If replacing a crank seal while I’m doing this job is there anything I should be aware of?

Answer: Yes. Be careful NOT to scratch the crankshaft with a screwdriver or whatever you use to remove the seal. It also should be cleaned well with brake clean prior to installing the new seal. Some techs will use a little emery paper to help clean the contact surface, but it’s important to use very fine paper so as not to leave grooves that can wear the seal prematurely. Also when installing the new seal be careful not to fold the rubber that holds the spring. Engine oil or a little sil glyde (silicone paste) can be used to help lubricate the seal until oil gets pumped to it.

Question: The seal is very difficult to remove. Have any removal tips?

Answer: I have used a very small drill bit to allow a sheet metal screw to be inserted. After the sheet metal screw is in place it can be pulled with diagonal cutters, pulling the seal with it. This works but caution should be taken not to scratch the crank and to not allow any metal shavings to be left in the engine.

Question: Can I use a cylinder leak down tester to see if my broken timing belt has caused valve damage?

Answer:  Yes and no. If testing an engine that has a broken timing belt with a leak down tester, you will get an inacuurate reading because the valves are not in sync. You can however test the integrityof the valves after a timing belt is installed properly (if a timing belt is off a tooth, the cylinders can leak down).

Question: My timing belt broke while driving down the road. How do I know if the engine has valve damage?

Answer: Inspecting the tops of the pistons with a borescope or a video inspection camera can be a quick easy way to see if the valves interfered with the pistons. Most technicians would just try a timing belt and see how the car runs. If the car starts but has a misfire or runs poorly, this would be an indication that the valves are bent. Also sometimes in the process of replacing the t-belt it may be discovered that the cam will not turn which can also indicate bent valves. Remember don’t try to force the cam with the belt off since that can cause damage in itself.

 

 Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/08/timing-belt-replacement-2-4-mitsubishi-questions-and-answers/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the auto repair tips in this article. 

Tags: Timing, Belt, Replacement, 2.4, Mitsubishi, Questions, and, Answers

Summary: This auto repair blog post provides a quick easy way to check for a vacuum leak that can cause lean codes on Ford Windstars.

Ford seems to have more than it’s reasonable share of lean codes, the Ford Windstar is no exception. If all the usual suspects have been investigated and no leaks were found, there’s another possible cause of a lean code when diagnosing a Ford Windstar. At one time I had so many of these vehicles to work on… I kept a parts list! In my notebook, I kept a list of part numbers that made writing up an estimate for repairs much easier. Later, when I used the computer at work more I converted my notes over to a “Word Document” file that allowed me to copy paste. When you work Flat Rate, you learn to save time when you can!  Back to the subject at hand. In this auto repair article we briefly cover a common cause of lean codes on the Ford Windstar.

We recently wrote a repair article on Common Causes for Lean Codes and what to look for, that may also be helpful. This article covers a specific problem that many Ford Windstars have. Lean codes can affect both banks or just one. The intake manifold on the Ford Windstar has intake runner seals that are prone to leak. The runner seals, most of time can be checked easily with fuel injection spray. All the basics should be checked like in our other article, but if nothing else is leaking, chances are one of the intake runner seals will be the cause.

**Caution** When spraying the intake runner seal be sure to stay clear of the alternator to avoid starting a fire! If a change in idle or stumble results when spraying the seal, it has a vacuum leak. The one being sprayed in the picture above is in the front, don’t forget to check the back one as well. P0174 a lean code for bank #2 which is near the radiator on the Windstar. Lean code P0171, is a lean code that affects bank #1 which is near the firewall. If both codes are present, then obviously both of the intake runner seals are leaking or a different problem is the cause altogether.

Question: How do I remove the upper plenum? It’s a tight fit to remove it, because of it hitting the wiper cowl.

Answer:It is tight, but it can be removed without removing the cowl. When loosened, rotate the right side of the upper intake towards the front of the vehicle. Go easy because breaking the plastic channel is a possibility if it is forced.

Question: Do I have to replace the entire lower intake due to the seal leaking?

Answer:I dealt with aftermarket warranty companies, that were willing to pay for the entire intake. So, I never resealed the intake runners myself. I do know of a few other auto techs that were forced to reseal them occasionally because of the intake assembly being on back-order from Ford. Unbelievably, they used air conditioning o-rings to replace the ones that were leaking and they never had any comebacks that I’m aware of.

 Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/08/ford-windstar-lean-code-p0171-or-p0174/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 Liter Engine with a P1281 Code.

This automotive repair article is on a specific check engine light code for a Jeep Grand Cherokee. When scanned with an automotive scan tool, a P1281 fault code was retrieved. The code has to do with the engine not reaching operating temperature within a certain length of time after the vehicle has been started. For the catalytic converter to operate at it’s best the engine needs to reach it’s normal operating temp. The cooling system’s thermostat normally stays closed when the engine is cold, allowing the motor to warm up quickly. That’s why the trick of removing the thermostat to let the car run cooler, like back in the 1970’s (prior to on-board computers) doesn’t work well anymore.

Back to repairing this specific vehicle. In most cases, a P1281 fault code like the one that caused this CEL (Check Engine Light) to come on; means that the thermostat is either stuck open, or that it has simply fallen apart. In either case it is no longer capable of closing and it cannot stop the flow of anti-freeze throughout the cooling system. This keeps the engine from reaching the normal temperature range within the expected time-frame. When the optimal range is not obtained, the fuel mixture will be too rich, the fuel doesn’t burn as well and catalytic converters aren’t as efficient. Other things can even be affected like the transmission shift points. Shift points may take longer to reach, making the engine wind out more to warm it up sooner.   

This thermostat is an easy one to change.

As can be seen in the image above, the thermostat came out in pieces. Before installing a new thermostat, the old gasket material must be cleaned one of two ways. 1. With a gasket scraper (old school).  or 2. A roloc type scotch grinding disc and a 90 degree die grinder. Most gaskets for this application have self adhesive backings to help hold them in place. If the gasket doesn’t have adhesive, a little 3M glue can be used to hold everything in place until the bolts can be secured. One mistake made by beginners and by professional techs that get into too much of a hurry,  is to allow the replacement t-stat to fall out of the recess while installing it. If the thermostat housing is tightened up with the thermostat out of position, the housing can be cracked easily. Other than that,  it is a pretty straight forward job. After replacing the thermostat, a Lisle coolant funnel can be used to help burp the air out of the cooling system and fill the over-flow reservoir. Once that is done it’s time to clear the code with a scan tool or code reader.

Question: Is there anything else that could throw a P1281 fault code?

Answer: In most cases it will be due to a bad thermostat, but yes. A faulty temperature sending unit could possibly fool the computer into thinking that the engine did not warm up properly. They have this one worked out pretty well though. The computer is likely to get suspicious of an engine that has been running 20 minutes and still hasn’t reached normal operating temperature.

More about suspected false readings from gauges.

When I suspected a false temperature reading, I would always check with my Genisys scan tool and monitor the data screen. Sometimes there will be two sensors, one for the gauge and one for the computer. I would compare the reading on the data screen and the temperature on the car’s gauge. These readings should be about the same, so if there is a huge difference in the readings then, one is most likely faulty or the gauge itself could be reading inaccurately.

Question: I’m a service writer and many times when I try to get a thermostat covered under an aftermarket warranty the claim is denied. What is the best way to describe the cause and correction to have the best chance of getting this covered?

Answer: I would write this up the following way to provide the information the warranty company needs to make their decision.

Concern: Customer states the CEL (Check Engine Light) is on.

Cause: Scanned P1281, thermostat malfunction indicated. Engine takes too long to reach operating temperature. Verified the thermostat is stuck in the open position – vehicle has no impact damage or aftermarket modifications.

Correction: Installed replacement t-stat and replenished coolant. Cleared code and retested to verify repair and correct concern.
 

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/08/jeep-grand-cherokee-scanned-p1281-fault-code/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: Jeep, Grand, Cherokee, Scanned, P1281, Fault, Code, thermostat

2004 Dodge Stratus 

In this automotive repair blog, we provide some helpful information on how to R&R (Remove and Replace) the evaporator in a 2004 Dodge Stratus. Replacing the heater core is basically the same job, except for the replacement of the receiver drier. These tips are for the 4 door sedan, yes the the coupe and the convertible may be different depending on the year. If working on a different model or year it would be advisable to refer to an auto repair manual. Auto repair manuals provide detailed info on changing components like the evaporator in any model. Just keep in mind that for evaporator or heater core replacement, most of them will say “see removal of instrument panel.” Which is accurate except for the fact that if all you’re doing is moving the dash to access the evaporator case, dismantling the dash isn’t really needed. If the instrument panel is removed as described in most auto repair manuals, many more parts will be removed unnecessarily.

After verifying the evaporator is the cause of the refrigerant leak with a dependable Freon leak detector, we’re ready to start. Remove the refrigerant with an AC recovery machine. If doing this at home, keep in mind the only legal way to remove the 134A is with a recovery machine. Some repair shops will recover the refrigerant and when the job has been completed and the car is taken back to the shop, they will pull the vacuum and recharge the system. I’ve done this before for customers, it wasn’t always my favorite thing to do since dealing with DIY’ers was a hassle because sometimes there would be leaks that the customer did not detect, they cut an o-ring, or some other part of the repair just wasn’t right. However if the work was done properly it was easy money for me, I would let the AC machine do most of the work and I would flag 1.4 hours.

After the Refrigerant is Removed

Disconnect the battery for safety when doing any dash work. Keep in mind that there may be some residual pressure left in the system, so when removing the first refrigerant line there could be a little refrigerant oil spraying out . Start on the outside, by removing the drier and disconnecting the lines going to the expansion valve. Disconnect the heater hoses with spring clamp pliers or a hose clamp cable tool. Pliers will work but sometimes access can be difficult.  Next there are three ten millimeter nuts on the firewall that go to the evaporator case, those will need to be removed before moving on to the inside of the car to work. Wait until last to install the new drier since prolonged exposure to the atmosphere can contaminate the desiccant by allowing it to absorb moisture from the outside air.

Working Inside the Car 

Pop the trim at the bottom of the doorways and lay them to the side. The screws that hold the kick plates can now be accessed and removed. Pull the weatherstripping away partially and drape them on the outside of the doors. The pillar trim panels are removed with a trim stick and pulling by hand. Then the large trim panel that runs along the top of the dash is pry-ed out carefully not to scratch any surfaces. Careful working around the windshield, since a slip of a tool can crack it fairly easily. Remove the 4 10mm bolts and 5 Phillips screws along the top of the dash that are now exposed. Remove the glove box by pressing in the tabs and swinging it down and unhinging it. Remove two 10mm nuts securing the dash to the case. Remove the small trim pieces on each side of the hump in front of the console and then the  two 10mm bolts that will then be exposed (one on each side). Remove the center console, by removing Phillips screws. The shifter knob can be removed or the PRNDL trim can be popped up and turned sideways and the console can be lifted over the trim to extract it.

Remove the power mirror switch and trim bezel, then the drivers knee bolster can be removed (one screw will now be exposed). The knee bolster is removed by taking out the Phillips screws. Unplug wiring that may not have enough slack when the dash is swung. Care should be taken not to move the steering wheel from center when the coupler is loosened. If the steering wheel is turned, the clock-spring for the airbag in the wheel can be broken! With this in mind, remove the steering coupler at the bottom near the floor using a T40 torx. To the right of the steering column remove the 10mm bolt that goes up to the evaporator case, also in this area unplug the wiring plug that goes to the case. Remove the stoplight switch (by twisting it counter-clockwise) this will prevent it from being broken from bumping it when the dash and case is swung out. The case stays attached to the back of the dash until the dash is swung out. 

Have a friend help swing the dash out by unhooking it on each end and swinging it out on the passenger side (it’s awkward and bulky). There is a wire harness that is on the right side that can be maneuvered around the case ; it can be left plugged in. Remove the last 10mm nut freeing the evaporator case from the dash. By lifting up on the dash the case can now be removed.

Evaporator or Heater Core Replacement with Case Out

Once the case is out, pull back the seals that are glued to the case near the lines. Remove the expansion valve with a torx socket and the 8mm screws that hold the case halves together. After splitting the case the evaporator and heater core are exposed. Careful not to break the temperature probe that is positioned in the fins of the evaporator. Blow out the case with compressed air, any debris or leaves that end up in the blower can cause noisy operation. Switch the insulating material over to the replacement evaporator and put the case halves back together being careful to line up the doors. Don’t force anything or taking it all back apart again later will be on the list of things to do.

Installation is of course the reverse of the procedure laid out above. If additional repair information is needed for this and future projects be sure to check out ALL Data, they have several subscription levels available for weekend warriors. They provide all the information that professional shops have access to, it is all on-line, instantly accessed after signing up.

Linking: Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/08/change-heater-core-or-ac-evaporator-2004-dodge-stratus/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: Change, Heater, Core, AC, Evaporator, 2004, Dodge, Stratus, replacement, how, to