Video I made a while back showing the specialty tool in use.

Summary: Automotive repair blog article on changing intake gaskets on GM 3.1 and 3.4 v-6 engines. Often the problem of water in the oil is mis-diagnosed as blown head gaskets. Alos there are many time saving tips that can be used when changing the gaskets in this and Denlor’s original tech article linked within. The image above is click-able, it opens a new window for Youtube – just watch the volume! The tool is a Lisle 48500, we’ve been selling it for several years now.

It saves a lot of time when changing GM intake gaskets on Chevrolet/Oldsmobile/Pontiac 3.1 and 3.4 liter engines. Leaking intake gaskets are very common on these engines. The typical scenario is; 1. the car overheats, coolant is low but doesn’t seem to be leaking out anywhere. 2. After checking the engine oil and finding cappuccino or a chocolate milk substance… the worst is feared – a LEAKING HEAD GASKET! But in many cases on these engines it’s just a leaking intake gasket. The original type intake gaskets are a composite (which looks like a hard plastic) with a rubber insert. The intake gasket bolts have a low torque spec because of the type of gasket material. Over time the gaskets get hard and brittle and can break. The result in most cases is coolant leaking directly into the engine crankcase. Parts stores still sell the original type gaskets, but it’s important to know that if planning to keep the vehicle indefinitely upgraded steel gaskets with rubber inserts are available too.

More about the tool in the video.

The original Lisle 48500’s were too long to use on mini vans. I discovered that the tool would touch the cowl when prying the rockers on the firewall side. I simply removed the handle protector and cut off a couple of inches, rounded the corners and slipped the cover back on – it worked great. Lisle has now updated the tool to the proper length that doesn’t interfere with the cowls on mini vans and still provides sufficient leverage.

Question from a recent visitor

I’m going to tackle an intake manifold gasket on my Chevy Lumina 3.1 – I’m a “fair” shade-tree, amateur mechanic. With regard to the Lisle Push Rod Remover tool LIS48500, will this tool help me a lot? Am I crazy if I don’t order it? Any tips? THANKS! (PS: How much for freight and how soon can I get it? Thanks, again.)

My Response

Related Links

Our Original Tech Article on Servicing Intake Gaskets with the Pushrod Tool (Skip un-needed steps)

Lisle Pushrod Tool Product Listing

Automotive Helper Forum  (Some of the issues discussed at this forum can be avoided by using our tips)

Hub Pages (Some good tips for DIYers but the author did more work than was needed)

Tags: GM, 3.1, 3.4, Intake, Gasket, Replacement, Tips

Summary: Rear wiper motors on many types of SUV’s and mini vans commonly fail. One reason they fail is due to infrequent use. Electric motors tend to work better when they are used often. Sometimes a rear wiper motor can be tapped lightly to make it work temporarily. This is a quick test (used a lot on Fords) that will help to verify there’s power present at the motor. The wiper motor may stop again before long, but knowing that the motor is getting battery voltage without having to take the trim panel off for testing is a definite plus. The vehicle featured in this car repair article is a Chevy, which doesn’t have the common Ford rear wiper problem. The 1999 S-10 Blazer hatch has been opened and closed many times over the years. This can cause the wiring from the body to the hatch to weaken over time much like breaking a wire hanger by bending it in the same position repeatedly.

The tap test on the rear wiper motor didn’t do anything on this SUV. The rear wiper motor didn’t seem to be getting any power at all. Knowing that these motors usually are not a common problem, before removing the trim panel it was worth testing for voltage using a power probe where the wiring goes through the rubber conduit. If power was present when testing the orange 12v wire, the hatch trim panel would need to be removed for further testing. On the top side of the boot there was power – on the bottom side of the boot, No Power.  A little tug on the wire to check the integrity and it was found to be completely broken in two. Checking the rest of the wires by pulling them slightly and another one was found broken also.

What a simple repair this was going to be! Routing the replacement sections of wire through the rubber wiring loom proved to be difficult though. The wire cannot be simply pushed all the way through the rubber conduit without bunching up. A specialty tool would be needed to snake the wiring. How about a BIC pen? Perfect. After taking a pen apart, the tube left remaining was ideal for guiding the wire through the loom.   

Once the wire was in place, a little heat shrink and soldering was in order. After soldering, sliding the heat shrink into place and applying a little heat, black electrical tape was used to button this repair up. 

Good for another ten years.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/12/rear-wiper-motor-repair-chevy-blazer-problems/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article

Tags: Rear, Wiper, Motor, Repair, Chevy, Blazer, Problems

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/12/misfire-and-coolant-loss-dodge-4-7-possible-head-gasket/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article

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Summary: Ford spark plug blowout repair is covered in this article for 4.6, 5.4 & 6.8 liter engines. There are different brand insert repairs available for this Ford spark plug problem, however they are not all as effective and long lasting as the solution we recommend. Many Ford dealers want to charge thousands to replace the cylinder heads, when our repair can be done in the vehicle for a fraction of the cost. We sell some competitive brands like Lisle and Helicoil, however the Horizon made Calvan 38900 (Mount.9200 same w/different labeling) is the best repair system on the market today. We’ve sold hundreds of these, saving Ford owners a ton of money in the process. In the following article we’ll explain why this should be the next and last repair purchased for this particular repair.

This links to the entire article on our main site.

Tags: Ford, Spark, Plug, Blow, Out, Problems, How, to, Repair

Ford has had a long history of coming up with unique ideas – Edsel case in point.

Summary: In this auto repair blog we cover some of the most common Ford mechanical issues in late model Ford vehicles. Learn how a minor tune up could lead to a several thousand dollar repair. Some of the most notable problems are with spark plugs ejecting (and breaking) – EGR systems, transmission failures and keys getting stuck in the ignition. Along with common problems, auto mechanics need specialty tools in some cases to make repairs; we cover those too.

Ford spark plugs ejecting while driving down the road is almost 100% unique to the Ford Motor Company. In some 4.6, 5.4 and 6.8 liter engines (most manufactured prior to 2003) the four aluminum threads give-way, allowing the spark plug to be FIRED one last time – as a projectile! Typically when the plug shoots out it breaks the ignition coil along the way. Ford dealers in most cases want to replace the affected cylinder head for the tune of around $3500. We have a better solution which has saved our customers hundreds of thousands of dollars over the past several years. Our fix is done in the vehicle and the spark plug port repair makes the threads stronger than new – it lasts the lifetime of the motor. Just what you expect from any spark plug threads, right?

Spark plug problems continue to plague Ford. After having engines that spit out spark plugs like a spud out of a potato cannon, Ford has had an epiphany… a better idea. On some 4.6 and 5.4 motors from around 2004 & up, the problem is a new one… Ford spark plugs are now breaking off left and right when unsuspecting owners or techs are attempting to perform minor tune-ups. Ford again out doing themselves with another better idea – the unique spark plug they have in 2004 and up Triton 3 valve engines has a large electrode shield which tends to stick with carbon build-up. The result in many cases is a broken spark upon removal. The threaded part comes out leaving the shield and many times a chunk of porcelain stuck, wedged with carbon down in the cylinder. This has become such a problem that Ford has issued a TSB outlining a procedure for changing spark plugs in affected vehicles. If the procedure doesn’t work, the cylinder head may need to be removed costing several thousand dollars at the dealer. We have discovered the best and least expensive specialty tool for removing broken spark plugs in these vehicles. The specialty tool has had a great track record, it’s the tool I would use if faced with this problem – the Lisle 65600.

Some other common problems with Fords are EGR low flow codes, which can mean EGR passages are clogged up and in many other cases it could just mean that the DPFE is bad.  Ford lean codes are really common and most of the time they are easily diagnosed and repaired. Transmission all-out failures seem to have been most common with Ford Explorers around the year 2000. Ford seems to have improved the quality and reliability of their transmissions in later models. Crown Victoria’s and other rear wheel drive cars around the year 2000 also had an issue with their transmissions. The problem was a shudder around 45 MPH. The problem was actually related to the torque converter. Some shops including the one I worked at (around 02-05 performed a transmission flush, changing all of the transmission fluid including what is in the converter. Most of the time the shudder would be taken care of, a small percentage of the time the transmission had to be removed and the torque converter would need to be replaced. Ford Focus cars had a huge problem with the ignition lock. The tumblers can wear and cause binding making it impossible in some cases to turn the key. For awhile at the shop I worked at prior to 2005, we were getting two or three a week towed in. If we were busy, we let the locksmith replace the ignition lock. It was a pain to remove the lock cylinder because the key needs to be turned to the on position before a release button could be pushed in to release the lock cylinder. Since the key would not turn – there lies the problem. Sometimes WD40 can be sprayed into the lock cylinder and vise grips can be attached to the key to be used as leverage. Of course the key can be broken if too much force is used, but sometimes by working the key back and forth the lock can be turned to the on position so that the lock cylinder can be removed and replaced. If that trick doesn’t work, extreme measures may have to be taken. The Focus is one of the few cars that you can get away with using a slide hammer to remove the ignition lock. It’s done by running a sheet metal screw into the slot where the key goes. Then the slide hammer can be attached to the screw with Vise grips. Whaling with the slide hammer will pull the lock out without breaking the ignition lock housing. Once it’s out of the ignition lock cylinder, it can be recoded to match the original key and installed. The locksmith that I used to talk with back then told me to never try the slide hammer method on any other vehicle because the housing would break, causing extensive damage to the steering column.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/common-ford-problems-and-specialty-tools/ to highlight  2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

On a final note, just want to let Ford lovers know, I too like Fords, in fact I once restored a 67 Mustang convertible – see my article on the cowl repair, along with pictures.

Tags: Common, Ford, Problems,, Specialty, Tools

Unique Ford spark plug design can easily break when removed

When changing Ford spark plugs it’s good to be aware of the potential of breaking them in certain models. In this repair article, find out which ones are susceptible to separating when being removed. Learn how to remove them without breaking them and how to remove them if they do break. Denlors Auto Repair blog has had several articles about removing broken sparkplugs in Ford vehicles. In addition to Rotunda Separated Spark Plug Remover, we offer several less expensive options of removal tools. Compared to Ford Rotunda special service tools, we save our customers a lot of money, when removing broken spark plugs.

Which Ones To Look Out For

Affected vehicles include; 4.6, 5.4 and 6.8 3V engines found in many 2004-2008 Ford Mustangs, Expeditions, F150’s, Motor-homes, Explorer Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineers, Lincoln Navigators and the Lincoln Mark LT. Ford has recently came out with a new TSB that supersedes the first ones, that may prevent breaking the sparkplugs to begin with. We have included TSB links towards the bottom of this repair article, courtesy of the Ford Motor Company.

The Short Version

The updated procedure consists of 7 pages (see the PDF links below) basically says to back the sparkplugs no more than 1/8″ to 1/4″ of a turn. Then use a small amount of carburetor cleaner in the sparkplug well and allow time for the cleaner to make it’s way down to the electrode shield. The idea is to loosen the carbon buildup around the electrode shield to allow sparkplug to be removed without breaking it. The process may need to be repeated several times in order for it to work properly. Furthermore the TSB states that a torque wrench must be used to prevent excess pressure from being applied when working the spark-plug back and forth. If the torque exceeds 33 foot-pounds, the porcelain could break. Caution is also advised to prevent the possibility of putting too much carburetor spray down the well, if this is done excessively the engine can become hydro-locked. I can only imagine the frustration involved in trying to remove these wacky sparkplugs and then ending up with a hydro-locked engine!

How’d That Work Out?

So what happens if the TSB 08-7-6 procedure has been followed when changing the spark plugs and a sparkplug still breaks?  As mentioned before we have several options for removing Ford sparkplugs when they break. The first alternative to the Ford rotunda sparkplug removal tool (303-1203) is the Calvan (CAL 39100 – ET391). This tool is basically a copy of the Rotunda 303-1203 at a much lower cost. This tool is used the same as the 303-1203. It  can only be used if the porcelain did not stay inside the electrode shield. The porcelain must be removed first to use either of these tools. Ford’s method uses a 303-1398, the Calvan equivalent is the CAL39200. This approach uses pins that are lock-tighted into the center of the porcelain where the electrode pin was. After the Loctite dries a puller is used to remove the broken porcelain.

Lisle Method

Another option is the Lisle 65600 Ford broken spark plug remover. We’ve done an entire auto repair article featuring this tool and it’s different method of dealing with broken spark plug porcelain. That particular repair blog, includes pictures of the tool in use. Also there are some testimonials from guys that used the Lisle tool. Whichever method is used, it’s still a lot better than removing the cylinder head. Hopefully with the new procedure, removing the spark plugs intact may be possible and no specialty tools will be needed to begin with. 

Ford TSB for Spark Plug Removal – see all 7 pages below.

Ford TSB 08-7-6 Page 1   Ford TSB 08-7-6 Page 2  Ford TSB 08-7-6 Page 3

 Ford TSB 08-7-6 Page 4 Ford TSB 08-7-6 Page 5  Ford TSB 08-7-6 Page 6

 Ford TSB 08-7-6 Page 7

More TSB’s can be accessed on-line along with detailed repair information. Use the instructions needed now and log back in for other repair projects at a later date, all for ONE low fee. Visit Mitchell’s eAuto Repair, access the same repair data Mitchell provides professional shops everywhere.

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Tags: Changing, Ford, Spark, Plugs, 4.6, 5.4, 6.8, Ford, TSB, 08-7-6

2003 Ford Taurus with a P1131 oxygen sensor fault code 3.0 DOHC

This automotive repair blog covers a couple of common fault codes that sets the SES (Service Engine Soon) or CEL (Check Engine Light) whichever term you prefer to use. The codes are a P1131 or a P1151, the P1131 is related to B1 S1 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) oxygen sensor which is located near the firewall on the 3.0 DOHC Taurus pictured above. The P1151 is related to the bank that is located near the radiator. There are several probable causes of these codes, we’ll cover the possibilities to help in diagnosing this particular problem.

Tags: Ford, P1131, P1151, Fault, Codes, 3.0, DOHC, O-2, Diagnostics, oxygen, sensors, o-2

Calvan 11/16″ drill bit used with air ratchet and 1/2″ socket.

DenLors tools has sold hundreds of the Calvan spark plug repair kits and has had no reported failures. We’ve answered many questions about Ford spark plug thread repairs over the last couple of years and have included them in various places on our site. Now in this auto repair blog ALL of the frequently asked questions to date are posted here in one central location, if you don’t see your question answered, feel free to use the comment form and ask. Included here are questions about repairing spark plug holes after Lisle, Time Sert, Big Sert, or other brands that are thicker than the Heli-Coil, but still have managed to fail and allow the spark plug to blow out AGAIN. We are not out to discredit or slam any other spark plug insert company, we just know from our customer feedback what works and what just works for awhile. The questions below answer questions from real customers with this real problem. We recommend the Calvan Ford spark plug insert repair kit as the best solution, the following will help show why.

Question:  Are there different size or oversize inserts available for the Calvan insert tool and are they included?

Answer:  There is only one size thread insert for the Calvan repair kit and 6 are included. There is only one size because once the Cal Van is installed, it will not blow out and there is no need for an oversize insert. A competitive brand  called “Timesert” has an oversize insert in case theirs fails, it’s called the Big Sert. The Calvan insert is even larger than the BigSert and Cal Van’s larger stronger design is one of the reasons it can last the life of the cylinder head.  To date the Calvan insert is the largest insert available, that’s the reason it can be used when competing brands fail.  

Question:  I have a 1999 Ford F150 with a 4.6 liter Triton engine with 126,000 miles on it. The number 3 spark plug blew out of the cylinder head. I called my local repair shop and was told that this was a common problem with this design engine because of the extremely thin (aluminum) casting in the spark plug area of the engine head, there is only about five threads for a spark plug. How is the Calvan insert better?

Answer:  While it is true there are only five threads for the spark plug in this design engine for the spark plug and the Calvan repair insert has five spark plug threads as well, the Calvan spark plug insert is steel not aluminum and the insert itself is held in place with ten external threads. The Calvan spark plug insert improves the design and durability at fraction of the cost of replacing the cylinder heads; and if replacing the heads they would have the same design weakness.

Question:  I am selling my truck as fast as I can get a spark plug to stay in long enough to get rid of it. I wanted to use a heli-coil because I won’t have to drill, but the thread tool isn’t long enough to reach in the spark plug recess, any suggestions?

Answer:  I personally recommend the Calvan spark plug repair kit because it is a better repair, but if you would rather use the thinner Heli-coil insert, the HEL5396-14 has the longer thread tool than the standard Heli-coil kit.

Question:  I have Ford van that has had a TimeSert installed previously, it has blown out and I want to know if the Calvan insert will work since the Time Sert has left a bigger hole now?

Answer:  Yes, the Calvan spark plug repair insert is larger and has worked well for our customers before, saving the expense of replacing the heads. Read on for more information.

Question:  I bought a rebuilt head and come to find out one of the spark plug holes had a repair insert, it blew out last week. The cylinder head has a warranty, but I cannot afford the down time of pulling thead all over again. Will the Calvan insert repair this hole?

Answer:  Yes, the Calvan insert is a thicker beefier repair that you don’t have to worry about. And I always tell our customers that when purchasing a rebuilt head of this type to be aware of the possibility that inferior repair inserts may be in the head. Buying a brand new head would insure that there are no cheap inserts, but you would be stuck with the original weak design. The Calvan thread insert repair saves down time, money and is stronger due to the material being steel alloy instead of aluminum like the original threads.

Question:  I need to know the size or dimension of the outside of the insert, to know if it will be large enough to repair the spark plug hole threads that have already been fixed once before?

Answer:  The outside diameter of the insert is .73″ or 18.65mm, this is measuring on the most outer part of the threads. If a HeliCoil or Timesert was used before in the original repair this will work well.

Question:  I have an insert that blew out after an engine rebuild, I can’t afford the down time to have the engine pulled AGAIN. The insert that’s still on the spark plug is not a thin Heli-Coil, it appears to be a Big Sert, which is the Time Sert oversize thread repair. My question is; Will the Calvan thread insert work in an engine after the BigSert has blown out? The outside diameter of the Big Sert is .63″ or 16mm.

Answer:  Yes, I can say this because the drill bit included in the Calvan 38900 spark plug repair kit is 11/16″ (.6875″ or 17.4mm) so what you’re telling me is you have a smaller hole than what the drill bit size is in our kit. So as long as the previous repair was drilled in the center, the Calvan will work great. Also the Calvan has a guide that fits in the spark plug recess so drilling and tapping will be centered every time, if you have a good view of where you’re working or not.

Question:  Does the CalVan insert accept the same spark plug or will I have to remember to use a different spark plug in the repaired port?

Answer:  The CalVan insert uses the same spark plug and has the identical taper and same number of threads, just stronger steel not aluminum.

Question:   The price for one insert seems high, are you sure I don’t get more than one insert for this price?

Answer:   I understand this seems like a lot but for an insert of this quality it’s like many things in life, you get what you pay for. Who wants to trust a weaker design insert to hold in a spark plug, if it fails on a coil over plug design it may break a $50 plus coil, require the job to be done over again, or worse cause extensive engine damage requiring the replacement of the head.

Question:  How long will the Calvan spark plug repair last?

Answer:  The Calvan inserts are designed to last the lifetime of the engine and are stronger than the original threads.

Calvan’s leak down tool to determine when the valves are closed.

Question:  Time Sert says “The only 100% way to know the valves are not open is to remove the valve cover and inspect the cam, making sure that it is not depressing the valves on the damaged spark plug hole.” Do I have to remove the valve cover with the Calvan Ford spark plug insert tool kit?

Answer:  No. The Calvan tool kit allows the mechanic to verify valves are closed with an included cylinder leak detector. Plug the rubber stopper from the leak detector into the spark plug hole with a low amount of air from an air compressor going through the hose. The rubber cone will pop out of the spark plug hole when the valves are closed. The video shows this as well.

Question:  How do I know all the aluminum metal shavings are out of the cylinder?

Answer:  A borescope is used to make sure all foreign debris is removed. A video inspection scope can be used as well, we have a fairly inexpensive video based scope, that in our opinion is better and easier to view than the fiber optic borescope shown in use in the instructional video.

Calvan’s metal sleeve or guide is used to center the drill bit and the tap.

Question:  I’m afraid I might start drilling or tapping the hole crooked, am I going to damage my head beyond repair?

Answer:  With the Calvan specialty tool kit that we sell, since it is made specifically for Ford 4.6, 5.4 and 6.8 Triton engines, it has a guide that fits into the spark plug recess to perfectly guide the drill and the tap making the repair centered, even in hard to access areas.

Question:  Will my spark plug be properly grounded through the engine, since the insert will have JB weld on the threads?

Answer:  I’ve only had one person ask this. The answer is yes. JB weld or Loctite with some other brand inserts is being used on the threads, but there is a large enough percentage of metal to metal contact that provides ground, to allow proper firing of the spark plug.

Question:  The Ford cylinder repair kit instructional video (showing the repair done with the engine on a stand) is good, but can this repair be done in the vehicle?

Answer:  Yes, the video is showing how the kit is used with an engine on a stand, however the tool kit is designed to be used on an engine that is in the vehicle.

Question:  There doesn’t seem to be much room under the cowl area of my truck. How can I drill in that tight area?

Answer:  This repair kit is used in tight areas, on trucks and even in vans. The drill bit, which is used in the guide so the hole is drilled in the correct position. And to allow drilling to be done in confined areas, the drilling is actually done with an air ratchet. The drill bit accepts a 1/2″  socket that is used with your air ratchet, so drilling is done on a right angle. The guide is also used with the thread tap, so making a perfectly centered hole is easy.  

Linking: Please reference this article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2008/12/ford-spark-plug-blow-outs-oversize-inserts-and-faqs/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: Ford, Spark, Plug, Blow, Outs, Oversize, Inserts, FAQ\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'s, timesert, bigsert

If  Ford’s poorly designed spark plugs would just all come out like these.

The lucky guy that removed the spark plugs in the picture above, has someone watching over him, he narrowly escaped huge spark plug problems. We have orders everyday for specialty tools to remove broken spark plugs from Fords. The two piece spark plug typically comes apart, separating the main part of the spark plug from the huge electrode shield. Ford’s spark plug design comes under the heading “what were they thinking?”  DenLors Tools was one of the first automotive tool suppliers to sell the Rotunda 303-1203 specialty tool that was recommended in the Ford TSB to remove these broken spark plugs when they were broken upon removal. Now, we have a much better solution in the LIS65600. The Lisle specialty tool has quickly became our most popular tool for removing Ford broken spark plugs. We have had only positive feedback from auto techs that have used this tool. Ford forums have recently been helping to spread the word of the success of this new tool. There is quite a buzz about a Ford class action suite regarding this poorly designed spark plug, but our role is to help those that are dealing with broken spark plug problems, to remove them as quickly and inexpensively as possible.

See the pictures below of the best tool for removing the broken electrode shield. I did a demo at a local shop to show how great this tool works. In fifteen minutes it was out and that was my first time using the tool.

Pusher in place, it screws into the spark plug hole and the center is ran down all the way.

 Puller in place, after the porcelain is pushed down to allow access. Apply slight pressure so the self tapping tool can bite into the sleeve.

Notice the electrode is broken but holds the porcelain from going further, also the tool only goes so far.

Success!

Linking: Please reference this article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2008/11/ford-spark-plug-removal-tool-picture-of-fords-bad-design/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article. 

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Tags: Ford, Spark, Plug, Removal, Tool, Picture, of, Ford's, Bad, Design, auto, specialty, remover, removal

Video inspection scopes are now quite affordable.

Doctors have used fiber optic bore-scopes and endoscopes in the medical field for a longer period of time than automotive technicians have used inspection scopes in the automotive repair field. The high cost for these gadgets in the past prevented lower income fields from justifying the purchase of them. 

Like with many technology driven items, the cost of these useful tools has came down since their introduction. The lower cost, first on fiber optic borescopes and now more recently on video based inspection scopes has opened the market up and made the purchase of inspection scopes more feasible for other markets besides the medical field.    

The fiber optic borescope was once the only specialty tool of it’s type made for automotive and other inspections that require access to very tight areas. Using fiber optic boresopes can be a little awkward though. The small eyepiece on most fiberoptic borescopes require your eye to be positioned at just the right distance from the view finder to view the object. In addition, the distance from the wand to the subject and manual focusing is must be adjusted to view properly.

Video based inspection scope prices have came down to a very affordable range and are are easier to use compared to fiber optic borescopes. Most video inspection scopes have color monitors, not just a small eyepiece for viewing. Most video inspection scopes have an automatic focus feature instead of the manual focus found on fiberoptic borescopes. Image quality is superior in comparison and can be viewed by several people at the same time. Some video based scopes allow the capability to transfer still images and video to a lap top computer. Once saved as a file on the computer, the footage can be shared easily with clients if desired. This is sure to become a standard practice for after market extended car warranty companies. Auto warranty Inspectors can email their car inspection video to the warranty company as easily as they now send jpegs.

If considering the purchase of an inspection scope, then a video based inspection scope is worth a look (no pun intended).

Tags: bore, scope, endoscope, Fiber, Optic, fiberoptic, Borescopes, Video, Inspection, Scopes, auto, automotive, specialty, tool