The Robinair AC Machine is one of the most popular units for car air conditioning service.

Summary: In this auto repair article we discuss the reasons why a car’s air conditioning system may leak water inside the vehicle. Sometimes the fix is simple and other times the repair can be much more labor intensive. As an automotive technician that’s worked over 25 years in Florida, I’ve dealt with this problem many times on different models. If leaks aren’t fixed quickly, the carpet and padding underneath can become a breeding ground for mildew and harmful bacteria. People with certain allergies can be affected the most.

There are several reasons why a car’s AC can leak or drip water into the passenger compartment. First it’s important to understand that water dripping from under the car when the A/C is on is normal. It’s only when the water drips on the inside of the car there’s an issue. Varying amounts of water dripping (condensation) under the car is to be expected, depending on the level of humidity in the air. The higher the humidity, the higher the volume of water can be seen dripping under the car from the evaporator drain tube. I’ve actually had customers that complained because they thought that too much water was dripping under the car after an AC repair. On several occasions customers would say “It never had that much water draining out before.” It’s funny how some car owners pay closer attention to certain things after a repair has been made. After explaining that it’s a normal for condensation (water) to accumulate on the evaporator fins, drip to the bottom of the case and run out the drain tube; only then they understand that there’s not something wrong.

One of the most common causes of water dripping inside the car is because of a clogged drain. If the evaporator drain becomes restricted, the water backs up in the HVAC (Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning) case. The case is designed to allow water to travel to the bottom and out the drain tube. The case is not designed to be completely water tight in the event the drain becomes clogged. Sometimes if excess water remains in the case, some of it can blow out of the AC vents. In extreme cases the water can damage the blower motor and/or short out the blower resistor. Usually the blockage is caused by debris in the case, like leaves or dirt. Many times the evaporator drain can be cleared by blowing compressed air into the drain from the firewall side. A metal coat hanger can also be used to stick into the drain tube to loosen the debris and allow it to exit with the water.

Another common cause of water entering the passenger compartment can be from a faulty seal which is located between the HVAC case and the firewall. The water can drain out of the tube (unrestricted) – then run back to the firewall and leak into the passenger compartment, underneath the carpet. This is actually quite common with vehicles that don’t use a rubber “L” shaped hose on the plastic drain tube. Chrysler dealers (especially when vehicles are still under warranty) will sometimes install a simple rubber o-ring onto the plastic drain. When the water starts to run back on the underside of the tube towards the firewall it meets the o-ring. When water touches the o-ring, that causes it to drip downward instead of traveling the full distance to the firewall and entering the passenger compartment past the faulty seal.

The Chrysler Sebring pictured at the beginning of this article has a separate drain tube that attaches to the firewall which prevents the o-ring fix from being used. The problem is that the drain tube attaches to the firewall and NOT the drain on the case. If the seal is bad, the water can leak inside the car regardless of the firewall mounted hose. In cases like that (the Sebring and also Stratus) – the evaporator case has to be removed and the seal replaced or resealed. On every evaporator I replaced (any make/model) – I would always apply “Right Stuff” sealer to the bottom portion of the seal, to prevent a water leak after I’ve had the case out. Having to remove the case to repair the leak is obviously the worst case scenario, but sometimes it can’t be avoided.

Another cause of water leaking into the passenger compartment can be the HVAC case seams simply leaking. On the Chevrolet Cavalier and Cobalt the HVAC case uses a groove and tongue system that has no sealer from the factory. If the case becomes slightly distorted, it can allow water to blow past this seam and leak onto the carpet near the drain. The evaporator case has welded plastic rivets, that holds the housing together; if the case is removed, the welds have to be drilled out to separate it. When the case is apart, a sealer can be used like silicone or Right Stuff (my preference) in the seams. When putting the housing pieces back together screws are installed in holes that are provided. It is possible that the seams near the drain can be sealed externally with a sealer on the Cavalier or Cobalt. It is necessary for the sealer to work, that the area it is being applied to is completely dry. It’s also necessary to allow plenty of time for it to dry before running the AC.

Question: I have a Mitsubishi that leaks water on the driver’s side and wets the carpet. Could this be condensation from the air conditioner? If so how can I repair the leak?

Answer: The evaporator drain is on the driver’s side on some Mitsubishi models. If the drain seal is bad the water can run back inside, usually underneath the carpet. On the Mitsubishi Endeavor, the drain cannot be seen from the outside of the vehicle. I have been successful with the Endeavor and other Mitsubishi models, resealing around the drain without removing the case. 1. I removed the gas pedal and pulled the carpet back. 2. Removed the bad seal from around the drain with a pick. 3. Dried the area thoroughly with compressed air. 4. Wore latex gloves and applied Right Stuff, forcing it around the drain and through the firewall. – A bit messy, but definitely worth a shot before removing the entire dash and case.

Question: Can I fix the drain with the use of silicone instead of Right Stuff?

Answer: Probably. However I prefer Right Stuff because it sticks to surfaces better and dries harder, more like rubber when it is fully cured.

Question: I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, should I try adding a hose to the drain or would the o-ring fix work for my van?

Answer: The plastic drain, will not accept an “L” shaped rubber hose, due to the slot that is cut out in the bottom part of the plastic tube (which is part of the case). The o-ring fix for your van should work well to prevent AC condensate from leaking back into the vehicle under the carpet. According to Chrysler TSB 24-001-06, this should work on all Dodge Caravans and Chrysler Town and Country vans from the year 2001-2006. The dealer/factory/OEM part number for the o-ring is 68001994AA, although any o-ring that fits over the plastic drain tube should work.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; to highlight http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/ac-water-leaks…car-how-to-fix/ 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Summary: This auto repair article covers the common problem of ”the key being stuck in the ignition.” The shift interlock system is usually the cause of the key being stuck in the ignition lock. We do a general overview of this problem as it is related to a wide range of vehicles and have a specific vehicle, a 2006 Jeep Liberty that has the problem too. As with all vehicle systems, it’s best to have an understanding of how the system works to be able to diagnose the problem properly.

There are several reasons why the key may be unable to be removed from the ignition switch. The ignition lock cylinder could have worn or fallen tumblers, binding the key and preventing it from being removed. In many cases though, the reason will be related to the shift interlock system. Normally the shifter has to be in park before the key is released and is able to be removed from the switch. The shifters that seem to be have the most problems recently (many Chrysler products) – are the ones which are mounted on the floor or in the center console. Some of the shifters today are made with plastic components that sometimes stick and will not spring into the proper position at times. These shifters are also located near cup holders, which pose another potential problem – SPILLED SODA. The gummy residue from spilled drinks can contribute to the problem of sticky shifter mechanisms. You see there is a cable that goes from the shifter to the ignition lock. The cable is called a shift interlock cable – once the shifter is put into the park position a small lever springs into action to move the cable. When the system is working properly, the interlock cable that is hooked up to the ignition lock (where the key goes) pushes an internal mechanism that in turn releases the key.

The vehicle pictured in this article, a 2006 Jeep Liberty four wheel drive; ended up having a problem in the shifter (not the cable) which was servicable only by replacement of the entire shifter assembly part # 1-52125305 AD. There is NO adjustment for the interlock cable on this vehicle. The shifter happened to be an updated part that required an updated interlock cable as well – part # 1-52109779 AG. The newly updated shifter had a smaller retaining area where the cable attaches, which prevented re-using the old inter lock cable. The shifter interlock release lever as stated before, was not springing forward enough to make the cable release the key in the ignition lock. To temporarily release the key, the lever for the interlock cable can be pushed forward with a screwdriver or by hand to allow enough travel for the cable to release the key. *The interlock cable is the smaller one on the left side.

If replacing the shifter and installing an updated interlock cable, following the steps below may be helpful.

Remove center console to access the shifter assembly. Disconnect the interlock cable and shifter cable from the shift lever assembly. Unplug the electrical connector at the rear of the shifter. Unbolt the four nuts and remove the assembly from the vehicle. Lower the steering column by using the tilt lever. Remove the two plastic trim collars. Turn the ignition switch to the run position and depress the tab below the key lock cylinder, while holding the tab pull the key and cylinder out of the column. Now the shift interlock cable can be removed. Reverse the procedure outlined for re-installing the new parts. 

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/cant-remove-key-from-ignition-auto-repair-blog/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Also see our repair blog on Jeep Liberty rear power window replacement.

Tags: Can't, Remove, Key, from, Ignition, Auto, Repair, Blog, interlock, cable, shifter, Jeep, Liberty

Summary: In this article we cover the Smart car and how it was named. The Smart car obviously gets great gas mileage, however with it’s miniature size how does it hold up in a crash? The Crash test video shown in this article helps to reveal how it measures up when it’s involved in a collision. Our exclusive pictures show how small the Smart car really is, we couldn’t resist the temptation to compare it with a golf cart.

 An interesting fact is how the Smart car was actually named. The Smart car was originally a project of the Swatchcompany (a Swiss watch maker). Prior to it’s final naming, Swatch approached GM and then VW for for possibly teaming up to produce then nicknamed Swatchmobile. GM and VW ended up declining the proposal to produce the Swatchmobile. Daimler-Benz and Swatch ended up coming to an agreement to produce the car. That’s when the name “Smart” was created as an acronym from Swatch Mercedes (SM) ART.

Living in the US, it strikes me as odd to see a golf cart sized car tooling down the road next to semi tractor trailers. In other parts of the world people are much more used to seeing mini-cars. In fact it makes getting around town much easier, especially when it comes to parking. Two Smart cars can fit into one regular parking space! The American model pictured has a 1.0 Liter gasoline engine. Other power plants are available such as other gas engines, diesel and plans an electric powered model in 2010. The most talked about Smart car amongst mechanics that I’ve talked to has been the Hayabusa powered car; cool & scary at the same time. 

The Smart car crash test outcome was rather surprising to me, I didn’t know a stock Smart car could reach 70 MPH. Kidding aside, it withstood the impact much better than I thought it would and it came out looking like a Smart car (still recognizable). However, since the car is so small it will undoubtedly absorb much less of the energy in an accident than a larger car. That makes the occupants subject to more of an abrupt impact during an accident. Curtain airbags or not, Smart car vs. Silverado… it most likely will be curtains for the Smart car.

Smart car with a Hayabusa VS Ferrari.

Tags: Smart, Car, Golf, Cart, Pictures, Crash, Test, Video

Summary: In this article we point out a common problem with Nissan automobiles equipped with the 3.5 Liter engine that causes engine tapping noises typically on cold start up. The engine has variable timing cam sprockets, three timing chains, three tensioners and three guides. Vehicles subject to similar issues may include Nissan Altima, Maxima, Murano, 350Z, Infiniti G35, G37, EX, FX, M series and QX4. 

Nissan has stated before that a slight tap on cold start up that lasts for only a second is normal and acceptable. The tapping noise the vehicle in this auto repair blog had lasted much longer than that. When the car was allowed to cool down prior to starting, a tapping noise was present as long as the car was kept at idle; when the idle was raised to 1500 RPM’s he tapping would fade away. The noise when listened to with a stethoscope seemed to be coming mainly from the right bank near the firewall. This vehicle had excessive movement in the main timing chain from wear in the chain and guides. The main timing chain tensioner is pushed out to tighten the chain by engine oil pressure. The higher the RPM’s the more oil pressure is supplied. It also ratchets out like a self adjuster (similar to an adjuster for drum brakes) to maintain adjustment as wear occurs. As the chain and guides wear over time it ratchets out further and further. Once there is so much wear that it cannot extend any more, only the oil pressure from the engine pushing the tensioner, can reduce some of the excessive chain movement. That’s why at higher RPM’s the rattling subsides. Also as the engine warms up, more oil is circulated and heat expansion can help to reduce the play somewhat. The simplest way to check for excessive timing chain wear is to remove the rear access cover that will reveal the main timing chain tensioner. If the adjustment seems to be fully extended out of it’s bore – most likely the timing chain and guides have excessive wear causing the problem.

Other Possible Causes

This is not to say that the only possible cause of a rattle upon cold start up is the main timing chain and guides. The most obvious cause of this condition would simply be low oil level. Not surprising, if there’s not enough oil circulating in the engine it will make noise! Also an engine that hasn’t had regular oil changes can become sludged and oil passages, including the one that leads to the timing chain tensioner can become restricted. Also Nissan has had some problems with variable timing sprockets making noise sometimes and some tensioners that weren’t up to par. It’s important to diagnose the particular problem at hand and not assume that this is definitely the cause, but checking for a loose main timing chain is one of the most logical places to start.

The Fix 

The confirmed fix for the car in this article (2004 Maxima 101,000 miles) was the primary timing chain, guides and tensioner. The job normally calls for about 11 book hours which includes removing the exhaust, starter, AC compressor and upper oil pan. The repair was done without removing those components which saved a lot of time.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/09/3-5-nissan-engine-noise-tapping-at-cold-start-up/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Have questions for a Nissan tech? See our car questions page to find a Nissan trained expert now.

Tags: 3.5, Nissan, Engine, Noise, Tapping, Cold, Start, Up, Infiniti

Wiring can cause door lock problems, switches and actuators are more common

There are several things that can cause the power door locks not to work properly. The most common cause of a single door lock not to work, is a bad door lock actuator (also called a door lock solenoid). Another common problem or cause of door locks not working is simply a bad door lock switch. Many cars today have computers that are also in the loop when it comes to controlling the door locks. Fortunately, body computer systems are pretty dependable and give problems seldomly. It seems as though the most troublesome vehicles regarding door locks related to computer control issues, are Chrysler’s; Dodge Caravan and Chrysler Town & Country vans sometimes have BUS related issues (BUS means “a collection of wires through which data is transmitted from one computer to another”)… but this is still rare. Ford Explorers also have a few BUS issues that can be related to door lock security module, or wiring shorting out that goes from the door into the body. Usually when checked with a scan tool in the body control or security section, there will be a code indicating if there’s a BUS fault.

Problems can also include other failed parts that aren’t high tech, like a linking rod connector. Sometimes the linkage can pop off during the process of a locksmith using a slim jim or someone using a hanger to unlock a door. It’s easy to hook onto a rod and disconnect a link. In this case it’s just a matter of removing the door panel and maybe adjusting the linkage and replacing the plastic rod retainer if it was weakened or broken.

Door latches can wear, some have the door lock actuators built in and others don’t, but a worn latch in either case can cause problems. If there is too much play or excess movement, the door lock may not work dependably. When replacing door lock actuators, a lot of times they are only available as an assembly including both the door latch and actuator as a unit. It depends on the make and model how they are which design they have.

Door Lock Diagnostics. First think about the problem logically.

1. If there is only ONE door lock not working, the problem is more than likely isolated within that particular door, barring some unusual wiring issue.
2. If all the door locks work with the passenger side door lock switch, but not the driver’s door lock switch then the problem is more than likely the driver’s switch.
3. If a single door lock only works in one direction, either to lock or unlock but not both, then the problem is likely to be the door lock actuator.
4. If ALL door locks work only in one direction, ether to lock or unlock but not both, then the problem is likely to be a bad door lock switch.

Question - I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the right rear door lock makes a loud buzzing sound when I try to unlock the door. Can you suggest what the problem could be?

Answer - This is a common symptom of an actuator that has gone bad. It could be the gears inside that are worn not meshing properly, although the exact cause of failure doesn’t really matter since the part is replaced as a unit and not taken apart and repaired.

Question- After replacing an exterior door handle on my Mercury Mountaineer, the door locks will not work properly. The locks worked before, what could be the problem?

Answer - Since the door locks worked before the door handle was replaced, the problem most likely is the link adjustment from the handle to the door lock actuator. If the adjustment is too tight or too loose, it will not work properly. A little free movement of the handle should be felt if the adjustment is correct. It’s best to notice where the positioning is on the threaded part of the rod prior to taking it apart, then check the door lock operation before putting the interior door panel back on.

Question - On my 2003 Ford Explorer, the power door locks go on and off while driving down the road. The door ajar cwarning omes on the dash and chimes, what could be the problem?

Answer – It’s possible that one of the door ajar switches located in a door latch could be going bad. Another possibility is a wire that goes from the door through the body could be shorting sometimes (see the picture at the top). The Explorer uses a security module located underneath the right rear quarter window behind the trim panel – I’ve heard of cases when the window is not closed, rain can enter and ruin the module causing strange problems due to the water shorting it.

Linking: Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/07/power-door-locks-not-working-diagnose-and-repair/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

  

Tags: Power, Door, Locks, Not, Working, Diagnose, Repair, problems

UV dye can help in detecting oil leak sources.

It can be very difficult to pinpoint and detect the cause of leaks when the engine is covered with oil. Sometimes it’s best to clean the motor to help determine where the oil is coming from. By adding UV (Ultra Violet) Dye, the leak can be traced much easier back to the source. To begin with, it’s best to determine what type fluid is leaking, there are several things that could be leaking on an automobile.

The leak we think of most commonly that stains parking lots and driveways, is engine oil from the car’s motor. Other drips could be caused from the transmission, power steering, differential, cooling system and even from the air-conditioning. Narrow down the component that is leaking by checking the fluid levels and looking at the color of the fluid to help detect which fluid is dripping under the car. Transmission fluid will most likely be red, look at the color of the fluid on the dip stick to help determine if it matches the fluid that is leaking. The power steering fluid is mostly clear, brownish if older or red if transmission fluid is used. Most everyone knows what color the engine oil is – again double check the color of it on the dipstick to see if it matches the color of the leaked fluid. Coolant can be green, orange, red, yellow and brown if neglected see what color is in the car being checked. *Don’t open the radiator cap on a hot vehicle.

Cleaning the Engine

A common mistake when cleaning the engine is drenching the alternator. Alternators have constant power supplied from the battery even with the ignition switch off. A neighbor of mine recently was detailing his engine compartment, when he shorted the alternator making it smoke. I suggested that he disconnect the battery and allow it to dry out completely, then recheck it. He told me he already tried that but the alternator was definitely history. Now he has a very clean engine compartment and a shiny new alternator! Anything electrical under the hood should be avoided when spraying water. Years ago when I cleaned an engine at a shop I worked at, a check engine light came on for the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Since then I’ve learned to be more careful when cleaning under the hood. It’s best for the engine to be warm but not hot. If the engine is hot it’s possible that quickly cooling components with water could cause cracks or warpage. Many people including detail shops clean motor compartments every day without causing damage, it’s just best to be cautious.

UV dye

Sometimes just by cleaning the car’s motor, detecting the source of the leak can be done without the use of dye. Other times it may be helpful to add dye to help diagnose the leak source. Many unnecessary gaskets and seals have undoubtedly been replaced without repairing the true source of leaks. By taking a little extra time to correctly identify the problem, money can be saved by replacing the needed parts the first time. It’s best to start with a clean engine and then add UV dye. The idea is to make the source of the leak appear more easily – to make it glowingly apparent! Depending on how fast the leak is, an engine may need to be ran for different l lengths of time for the dye to show. A fast leaking engine will not have to run very long with the dye circulating in the oil. An engine with a slower leak will have to be ran longer before the dye starts leaking out. It’s important not to run the engine too long with the UV dye because then its trail will be harder to trace. If done properly a UV light can be used to shine on the oil and the trail can be followed back to the leaky seal or gasket. I usually alternate between using a UV light and a regular shop light when pinpointing the leak source – surprisingly the fluid looks much different under the contrasting lights. Sometimes a leak appears to be on the bottom of the engine, it might look like the oil pan is leaking but it could be leaking from higher up and running down. The ultraviolet dye in the oil will help determine if the leak is running down from a higher source on the engine like a valve cover or cam seal. The path of the leak can typically be followed back easily.

Oil leak detection steps.

• Verify which fluid is being lost, so dye can be added to the right component.
• Clean the engine if necessary. If valve covers are definitely leaking, replace them and then proceed with cleaning and adding dye if necessary.
• Adding UV dye can make accurately detecting the source of leaks much easier.
• Verify PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) is working properly with no vacuum leaks.

Expectations – Oil Consumption

If there are no leaks and the oil is being lost, it’s being burned. With catalytic converters burning the oil that ends up there at such a high temperature, smoke from the exhaust may not be noticeable. Engine oil breaks down after around 2,500 to 3,000 miles and may start to leak or burn faster than newer oil. Driving habits and the vehicle type can be definitely be variables. I’ve noticed with my personal vehicles over the years that after around 2,500 miles my engine oil starts to be consumed at a faster rate. One of my cars will not lose any oil in the first 2,500 miles but will consume a little less than a quart in the last 500 miles prior to the oil change. Since I realize this is the case, I’m not concerned with an oil leak or the engine’s valve seals or rings causing the oil to be burned. I know that with a fresh oil change I’m good to go for another 3,000 miles.

Most manufacturers consider a loss of 1 qt. of engine oil every 1,000 miles acceptable. I DON”T. I’ve had new vehicles that have consumed a couple of quarts in 3,000 miles and I’ve had old work trucks with over 150,000 miles that didn’t use a drop. Searching on the Internet for problems with certain vehicles consuming oil can be done to see if there are any particular common issues. If considering purchasing a new or used vehicle this is a good practice, so hopefully there won’t be any surprises.

Using the information provided in this auto repair blog, detectecting oil leaks will be much easier especially when using UV dye to help diagnose the source of those aggravating oil leaks. 

Linking: Please reference this article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/06/oil-leak-detection-use-of-uv-dye-to-pinpoint-leaks/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: Oil, Leak, Detection, UV, Dye, Pinpoint, Leaks

Who knew the EGR passage on this Honda was underneath a cover on the plenum?

The best source for free auto repair manual information on-line can be found by simply using Google or other search engines for the mechanical problem or issue at hand. For instance if you were having a problem loosening a Honda crank pulley bolt for pulley removal; just type into Google “honda crank pulley removal”and you will find helpful information.

DenLors Tools comes up under that search on Google along with our YouTube Video showing the specialty tool and how it’s done! So blogs like this one and forums that specialize in certain types of cars have all the free information needed in MANY cases. You may be surprised at all the free auto repair information that is available on the Internet and people that respond to questions in blogs and forums that are very happy to help.

Inexpensive On-line Auto Repair Information

In some cases you may need access to wiring diagrams, torque specifications or step by step directions for completing a specific job; this is when a repair manual loaded with tons of information is needed. Googling free auto repair information on the Internet is great, especially when quick accurate help has been gained, but it’s also nice to have an auto repair manual as another source to go to. Some searches for car repair information may not yield the best results – so again free is good and inexpensive access to a auto repair manual information is also as good, sometimes better. If finding free auto repair information is just not happening, then buying an inexpensive on-line subscription from a company like Mitchell (see the eAutoRepair link towards the bottom of the page) may be necessary. The beauty of this is that the auto repair information needed can be accessed instantly on-line for the current project and then referred back to later for other jobs. It’s also available in Spanish, French and German!

Below are some of the areas covered by Mitchell DIY

• Repair manual
• Automobile maintenance information
• Technical Service Bulletins – TSB’s
• Wiring diagrams
• Torque sequence and specifications
• Specific car information
• Do it yourself - DIY help
• Auto how to directions
• Mechanic tools needed
• Diagnosis descriptions
• Timing belt marks
• Timing chain markings
• Firing order
• Serpentine belt routing
• Recommended maintenance schedule
• Power window initialization procedures
• Valve adjustment steps

There are many car repair manuals available on-line, keep in mind Mitchell is used in professional auto repair shops throughout the world. While there is a small fee for the subscription for a specific vehicle, being able to do some car repairs yourself is well worth the nominal fee. DenLors Tools sells paper and CD Rom auto repair manuals for those that prefer to hold the book in their hand. But if waiting for an auto repair manual to be mailed is not an option, then instant on-line access could be the best solution. Once the auto repair info is viewed at Mitchell DIY, it will become obvious that the wealth of reliable information that can be accessed quickly and easily is well worth the small investment.

Tags: Free, Auto, Repair, Manuals, car, books, information

Early Broncos have a clean design that is lost in more modern trucks. 

Finding early Bronco parts for restoration projects can be a bit challenging. Some parts like fenders can be acquired in the aftermarket that are actually better than the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacture) ones. NOS (New Old Stock) must surely be all gone by now, but some aftermarket fenders are a thicker gauge than the original ones. Some inferior, thinner gauge replacement fenders might be less money but they may NOT line up as well. 

In writing a recent article about the Urge to Buy a Classic I researched parts availability for early Broncos. The Bronco in the article (the same one pictured above) was in bad need of replacement fenders. Some backyard body man did a number on those rusty fenders rather than purchasing a couple of high quality replacement fenders and doing the restoration right.

Early Ford Bronco Restoration Parts Sources

1. Toms Bronco Parts - Has new, used and rebuilt parts for early Ford Broncos. They even buy some parts that are suitable for rebuilding.
2. BC Broncos - BC Broncos has many aftermarket parts for restoration and performance. They even do complete restorations.
3. James Duff - James started out with his own Bronco in 1966 Baja racing. In developing parts for himself he found that there was a market for them to sell to others. His hobby quickly turned into a full time business.

   Classic auto parts for restoring old Mustangs to early Broncos can still be found with a little looking around on the web.

   
      

Tags: Early, Bronco, Parts, Restoration, sources

Car cranks over but doesn’t start.

OK, so you don’t have a Model T like in the picture but all your car does is crank over and does NOT start. I’ve been writing some articles geared more for the weekend mechanic and publishing them on a different site. Since this auto repair blog is mainly for professional technicians, I generally don’t post the more basic auto repair tips and tricks articles here. But I realize that not everyone that reads this blog is a professional tech, so I wanted to provide this link to one of my most recent articles posted at EzineArticles.com.

Read the entire diagnosis tips article on cars that crank over but don’t start.  

Tags: Car, Engine, Cranks, Over, But, Doesn\\\'t, Start, Automotive, Repair, Tips

Recently, I had a blog reader with a blown spark plug on a 2002 Mazda Tribute, she may have found us by using the search engines for blown spark plugs, even though our articles are mainly for specific Ford engines that do have this problem. She asked my advice about what she should do with her Mazda. While this is not a common problem with 3.0 engines, like in some Ford 4.6 and 5.4 engines I offered my advice. More than likely the spark plug had either been left loose or was cross threaded at some point and it blowing out was the end result. Below is what this reader had to say and my response.

Dennis, thanks for the insight. I understand clearly now what went wrong with my 2002 Mazda Tribute, V6, LX, which I understand has a Ford motor. My Mazda Tribute has 112,000 miles on it and ALL the repairs have been done by the dealership. I am meticulous with the upkeep of the car. However, one of the spark plugs blew out of the cylinder head. They could never tell me what caused this, but my opinion is that it was a human error. The dealership gave me 2 options. Option 1 for the cost of $3100 plus tax is to send the cylinder head to a machinest to repair the threads. Option 2 is to get an engine with 68000 miles on it and give me a warranty of 1 year. What do you suggest Mr. Dennis?
Thanking you very much.

Olga, 

Thanks for your comment. If you have documentation (receipts) that ALL of your maintenance has been done at the dealership, most importantly the spark plug replacement, you may have an argument for them to do the repair for free as good will or customer satisfaction. Try talking to the service manager or contact their corporate office and see what they will do for you. Your case would be strongest, if the spark plug replacement was done just recently before it blew out. 

If you are stuck footing the entire bill, your options as I see them is to: 1. Have a shop repair the threads in the vehicle. 2. Send the head out to be repaired. 3. Replace the engine. 

1. The dealership may not agree to install a repair insert, but an independent shop may be willing to do this and it’s a much less expensive repair…it might be worth doing this and taking a chance on the repair holding. This option would be the least expensive, but the gamble would be yours and not warrantied by the repair shop against failure of the repair.

2. Sending the head out for repair is labor extensive and there’s additional parts needed like gaskets, coolant and machine shop work, etc, so I would explore other options. Also, sending the head to the machine shop for repair does not guarantee that the threads will hold. This is an expensive gamble.

3. Since the value of a 2002 Tribute according to Kelley Blue Book is around $5,000 to $6000, I would be hesitant to put $3100 in an engine repair or even replacement. But, if replacing the engine is absolutely necessary, I would comparison shop other repair facilities and maybe even call the salvage yards myself  for estimates for putting a used engine in. The economy is slow right now and shops are likely to be very competitive. Make sure the engine replacement estimates are for engines with comparable miles on them and that the warranty is for the same duration. Also have the valve covers removed to inspect for sludge which would indicate a lack of maintenance (regualr oil changes). And of course have a written estimate prepared once you decide, so there’s minimal surprises on the final bill.

Good Luck

Tags: mazda, tribute, auto, repair, spark, plug, used, engine, head, replacement