The Robinair AC Machine is one of the most popular units for car air conditioning service.

Summary: In this auto repair article we discuss the reasons why a car’s air conditioning system may leak water inside the vehicle. Sometimes the fix is simple and other times the repair can be much more labor intensive. As an automotive technician that’s worked over 25 years in Florida, I’ve dealt with this problem many times on different models. If leaks aren’t fixed quickly, the carpet and padding underneath can become a breeding ground for mildew and harmful bacteria. People with certain allergies can be affected the most.

There are several reasons why a car’s AC can leak or drip water into the passenger compartment. First it’s important to understand that water dripping from under the car when the A/C is on is normal. It’s only when the water drips on the inside of the car there’s an issue. Varying amounts of water dripping (condensation) under the car is to be expected, depending on the level of humidity in the air. The higher the humidity, the higher the volume of water can be seen dripping under the car from the evaporator drain tube. I’ve actually had customers that complained because they thought that too much water was dripping under the car after an AC repair. On several occasions customers would say “It never had that much water draining out before.” It’s funny how some car owners pay closer attention to certain things after a repair has been made. After explaining that it’s a normal for condensation (water) to accumulate on the evaporator fins, drip to the bottom of the case and run out the drain tube; only then they understand that there’s not something wrong.

One of the most common causes of water dripping inside the car is because of a clogged drain. If the evaporator drain becomes restricted, the water backs up in the HVAC (Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning) case. The case is designed to allow water to travel to the bottom and out the drain tube. The case is not designed to be completely water tight in the event the drain becomes clogged. Sometimes if excess water remains in the case, some of it can blow out of the AC vents. In extreme cases the water can damage the blower motor and/or short out the blower resistor. Usually the blockage is caused by debris in the case, like leaves or dirt. Many times the evaporator drain can be cleared by blowing compressed air into the drain from the firewall side. A metal coat hanger can also be used to stick into the drain tube to loosen the debris and allow it to exit with the water.

Another common cause of water entering the passenger compartment can be from a faulty seal which is located between the HVAC case and the firewall. The water can drain out of the tube (unrestricted) – then run back to the firewall and leak into the passenger compartment, underneath the carpet. This is actually quite common with vehicles that don’t use a rubber “L” shaped hose on the plastic drain tube. Chrysler dealers (especially when vehicles are still under warranty) will sometimes install a simple rubber o-ring onto the plastic drain. When the water starts to run back on the underside of the tube towards the firewall it meets the o-ring. When water touches the o-ring, that causes it to drip downward instead of traveling the full distance to the firewall and entering the passenger compartment past the faulty seal.

The Chrysler Sebring pictured at the beginning of this article has a separate drain tube that attaches to the firewall which prevents the o-ring fix from being used. The problem is that the drain tube attaches to the firewall and NOT the drain on the case. If the seal is bad, the water can leak inside the car regardless of the firewall mounted hose. In cases like that (the Sebring and also Stratus) – the evaporator case has to be removed and the seal replaced or resealed. On every evaporator I replaced (any make/model) – I would always apply “Right Stuff” sealer to the bottom portion of the seal, to prevent a water leak after I’ve had the case out. Having to remove the case to repair the leak is obviously the worst case scenario, but sometimes it can’t be avoided.

Another cause of water leaking into the passenger compartment can be the HVAC case seams simply leaking. On the Chevrolet Cavalier and Cobalt the HVAC case uses a groove and tongue system that has no sealer from the factory. If the case becomes slightly distorted, it can allow water to blow past this seam and leak onto the carpet near the drain. The evaporator case has welded plastic rivets, that holds the housing together; if the case is removed, the welds have to be drilled out to separate it. When the case is apart, a sealer can be used like silicone or Right Stuff (my preference) in the seams. When putting the housing pieces back together screws are installed in holes that are provided. It is possible that the seams near the drain can be sealed externally with a sealer on the Cavalier or Cobalt. It is necessary for the sealer to work, that the area it is being applied to is completely dry. It’s also necessary to allow plenty of time for it to dry before running the AC.

Question: I have a Mitsubishi that leaks water on the driver’s side and wets the carpet. Could this be condensation from the air conditioner? If so how can I repair the leak?

Answer: The evaporator drain is on the driver’s side on some Mitsubishi models. If the drain seal is bad the water can run back inside, usually underneath the carpet. On the Mitsubishi Endeavor, the drain cannot be seen from the outside of the vehicle. I have been successful with the Endeavor and other Mitsubishi models, resealing around the drain without removing the case. 1. I removed the gas pedal and pulled the carpet back. 2. Removed the bad seal from around the drain with a pick. 3. Dried the area thoroughly with compressed air. 4. Wore latex gloves and applied Right Stuff, forcing it around the drain and through the firewall. – A bit messy, but definitely worth a shot before removing the entire dash and case.

Question: Can I fix the drain with the use of silicone instead of Right Stuff?

Answer: Probably. However I prefer Right Stuff because it sticks to surfaces better and dries harder, more like rubber when it is fully cured.

Question: I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, should I try adding a hose to the drain or would the o-ring fix work for my van?

Answer: The plastic drain, will not accept an “L” shaped rubber hose, due to the slot that is cut out in the bottom part of the plastic tube (which is part of the case). The o-ring fix for your van should work well to prevent AC condensate from leaking back into the vehicle under the carpet. According to Chrysler TSB 24-001-06, this should work on all Dodge Caravans and Chrysler Town and Country vans from the year 2001-2006. The dealer/factory/OEM part number for the o-ring is 68001994AA, although any o-ring that fits over the plastic drain tube should work.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; to highlight http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/10/ac-water-leaks…car-how-to-fix/ 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Summary: In this article we point out a common problem with Nissan automobiles equipped with the 3.5 Liter engine that causes engine tapping noises typically on cold start up. The engine has variable timing cam sprockets, three timing chains, three tensioners and three guides. Vehicles subject to similar issues may include Nissan Altima, Maxima, Murano, 350Z, Infiniti G35, G37, EX, FX, M series and QX4. 

Nissan has stated before that a slight tap on cold start up that lasts for only a second is normal and acceptable. The tapping noise the vehicle in this auto repair blog had lasted much longer than that. When the car was allowed to cool down prior to starting, a tapping noise was present as long as the car was kept at idle; when the idle was raised to 1500 RPM’s he tapping would fade away. The noise when listened to with a stethoscope seemed to be coming mainly from the right bank near the firewall. This vehicle had excessive movement in the main timing chain from wear in the chain and guides. The main timing chain tensioner is pushed out to tighten the chain by engine oil pressure. The higher the RPM’s the more oil pressure is supplied. It also ratchets out like a self adjuster (similar to an adjuster for drum brakes) to maintain adjustment as wear occurs. As the chain and guides wear over time it ratchets out further and further. Once there is so much wear that it cannot extend any more, only the oil pressure from the engine pushing the tensioner, can reduce some of the excessive chain movement. That’s why at higher RPM’s the rattling subsides. Also as the engine warms up, more oil is circulated and heat expansion can help to reduce the play somewhat. The simplest way to check for excessive timing chain wear is to remove the rear access cover that will reveal the main timing chain tensioner. If the adjustment seems to be fully extended out of it’s bore – most likely the timing chain and guides have excessive wear causing the problem.

Other Possible Causes

This is not to say that the only possible cause of a rattle upon cold start up is the main timing chain and guides. The most obvious cause of this condition would simply be low oil level. Not surprising, if there’s not enough oil circulating in the engine it will make noise! Also an engine that hasn’t had regular oil changes can become sludged and oil passages, including the one that leads to the timing chain tensioner can become restricted. Also Nissan has had some problems with variable timing sprockets making noise sometimes and some tensioners that weren’t up to par. It’s important to diagnose the particular problem at hand and not assume that this is definitely the cause, but checking for a loose main timing chain is one of the most logical places to start.

The Fix 

The confirmed fix for the car in this article (2004 Maxima 101,000 miles) was the primary timing chain, guides and tensioner. The job normally calls for about 11 book hours which includes removing the exhaust, starter, AC compressor and upper oil pan. The repair was done without removing those components which saved a lot of time.

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/09/3-5-nissan-engine-noise-tapping-at-cold-start-up/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Have questions for a Nissan tech? See our car questions page to find a Nissan trained expert now.

Tags: 3.5, Nissan, Engine, Noise, Tapping, Cold, Start, Up, Infiniti

What would cause two cooling fan motors to be out at the same time? One possibility is that they didn’t fail at the same time, one failed and the car was still able to be driven until the other failed also. But two fan motors failing on a car that only has 37,000 miles didn’t make sense either. Obviously power and ground supply was first checked with a power probe to verify the motors were getting the correct input to allow them to run. Once the fan motors were replaced, a terrible ticking noise was heard. More pictures below:

Nice AWD 300 with a HEMI, gets up and goes!

The ticking sound was both fan blades with a single split each.

Without replacing the blades at the same time the motors would have failed again. 

As seen in the above pictures, the cause of the faulty motors could easily have been the broken fan blades. With the splits in the blades and the tight clearance they have with the fan shroud, lots of rubbing occurred. The interference not only slows down the blades, it could also burn out the motors prematurely. The dealer had these fan blades in stock… the reason they keep these IN STOCK could be for collision shops. But unless we miss our guess there will be a lot more of these weak designed fan blades “coming to a shop near you.”

Linking: Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/07/chrysler-300-overheating-2006-ticking-noise/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: Chrysler, 300, Overheating, 2006, Ticking, Noise

Mode $06 misfire information displayed

Misfires particularly in Ford cars and trucks can many times be identified before a misfire code sets and turns the CEL (Check Engine Light) on. This is a huge time saver, especially when there is a definite misfire felt but the code seems to take forever to appear. Fords take a long time in some cases to run through it’s necessary drive cycles needed for self testing. Auto technicians deal with this common problem of diagnosing misfires on Ford vehicles with no codes set by using Mode $06. Usually only manufacturer specific scan tools will display misfire data wihen there’s no code, but OBD 2 generic scan tools that can access mode 6 on Ford vehicles can be a great help.

A misfire that hasn’t set a code or even a pending code, could be caused from a fouled spark plug, spark plug wires, ignition coil, injector or some other culprit. The particular cylinder can be pinpointed with the use of mode $06 diagnostics. For accessing “mode 6″ or as the scan tool may display it “$06″ an automotive scanner is needed that does more than just code reading. For example, the Genisys scan tool can access Ford mode 6 information by using OBD II generic, going to special tests and then selecting mode 6. Keep in mind Ford is the first car manufacturer that allows misfire data access in this way. Some tech’s may remember this is similar to some GM vehicles that displayed misfire counters for each cylinder in the past.

On Ford mode 6 there will be a list of cylinders. If working on a 6 cylinder the first six will apply, if working on an 8 cylinder the first eight will apply; you get the idea. Look for pass or fail for each cylinder, the scan tool data for mode 6 showing a misfire for cylinder #4 may look something like this;

TID $53 CID $01 Pass (Cylinder #1)
TID $53 CID $02 Pass (Cylinder #2)
TID $53 CID $03 Pass (Cylinder #3)
TID $53 CID $04 Fail   (Cylinder #4)
TID $53 CID $05 Pass (Cylinder #5)
TID $53 CID $06 Pass (Cylinder #6)
TID $53 CID $07 Pass (Cylinder #7)
TID $53 CID $08 Pass (Cylinder #8)

Question  Why does the cylinder number show the $ (dollar) symbol in the data displayed?

Answer  This is computer language and really means nothing to you and me – it’s not an indication that dollars are needed for the repair!

Question  What is mode 06 anyways?

Answer  Mode 6 is self monitoring that the car’s computer does to detect misfires. After the number of misfires exceed a pre-determined threshold the check engine light will be turned on. Mode 06 access gives us a look at the misfires in a cylinder before the light comes on.

Question  Are there any other modes I should be aware of?

Answer  The are other modes, but Mode 06, is the PID that will help with misfire codes on Fords before the code has been set. The mode definitions below are as described in the OBD-II standard SAE J1979.

$01. Show current data
$02. Show freeze frame data
$03. Show stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes
$04. Clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes and stored values
$05. Test results, oxygen sensor monitoring (non CAN only)
$06. Test results, other component/system monitoring (Test results, oxygen sensor monitoring for CAN only)
$07. Show pending Diagnostic Trouble Codes (detected during current or last driving cycle)
$08. Control operation of on-board component/system
$09. Request vehicle information
$0A. Permanent DTC’s (Cleared DTC’s)

Need a car repair manual? How about an on-line version with instant access? eAutoRepair by Mitchell is used in professional auto repair shops throughout the world. While there is a small fee for the subscription for a specific vehicle, being able to do some car repairs yourself is well worth the nominal fee.

Tags: mode, 6, $06, ford, misfires, no, codes, obd, II, 2

Who knew the EGR passage on this Honda was underneath a cover on the plenum?

The best source for free auto repair manual information on-line can be found by simply using Google or other search engines for the mechanical problem or issue at hand. For instance if you were having a problem loosening a Honda crank pulley bolt for pulley removal; just type into Google “honda crank pulley removal”and you will find helpful information.

DenLors Tools comes up under that search on Google along with our YouTube Video showing the specialty tool and how it’s done! So blogs like this one and forums that specialize in certain types of cars have all the free information needed in MANY cases. You may be surprised at all the free auto repair information that is available on the Internet and people that respond to questions in blogs and forums that are very happy to help.

Inexpensive On-line Auto Repair Information

In some cases you may need access to wiring diagrams, torque specifications or step by step directions for completing a specific job; this is when a repair manual loaded with tons of information is needed. Googling free auto repair information on the Internet is great, especially when quick accurate help has been gained, but it’s also nice to have an auto repair manual as another source to go to. Some searches for car repair information may not yield the best results – so again free is good and inexpensive access to a auto repair manual information is also as good, sometimes better. If finding free auto repair information is just not happening, then buying an inexpensive on-line subscription from a company like Mitchell (see the eAutoRepair link towards the bottom of the page) may be necessary. The beauty of this is that the auto repair information needed can be accessed instantly on-line for the current project and then referred back to later for other jobs. It’s also available in Spanish, French and German!

Below are some of the areas covered by Mitchell DIY

• Repair manual
• Automobile maintenance information
• Technical Service Bulletins – TSB’s
• Wiring diagrams
• Torque sequence and specifications
• Specific car information
• Do it yourself - DIY help
• Auto how to directions
• Mechanic tools needed
• Diagnosis descriptions
• Timing belt marks
• Timing chain markings
• Firing order
• Serpentine belt routing
• Recommended maintenance schedule
• Power window initialization procedures
• Valve adjustment steps

There are many car repair manuals available on-line, keep in mind Mitchell is used in professional auto repair shops throughout the world. While there is a small fee for the subscription for a specific vehicle, being able to do some car repairs yourself is well worth the nominal fee. DenLors Tools sells paper and CD Rom auto repair manuals for those that prefer to hold the book in their hand. But if waiting for an auto repair manual to be mailed is not an option, then instant on-line access could be the best solution. Once the auto repair info is viewed at Mitchell DIY, it will become obvious that the wealth of reliable information that can be accessed quickly and easily is well worth the small investment.

Tags: Free, Auto, Repair, Manuals, car, books, information

Expedition body is raised for easier cylinder head removal.

If removing a cylinder head on an Expedition or Navigator, many professional technicians will do a “Body Off” procedure which makes the engine much more accessible. Although this appears to be over dramatic and an over-kill, it really doesn’t take that long to raise the body once you know what to do. Flat rate technicians make their money by getting the job done in the shortest period of time. And if that means seemingly going to extremes, so be it!

Below is an example of how Bill at a Tampa garage did this procedure for the first time. One of the funniest things was to see people walk by, with their “Double Takes.” Note that if dealing with a blown spark plug, there is a repair kit available that can be used in the vehicle, without the need to remove the head. 

On air suspension equipped Expeditions and Navigators, disconnect the two air lines before lifting the body. Also if the Expedition or Navigator has a backup alarm feature, don’t forget to disconnect the electrical connector for that to. 

1. Remove the splash shield retaining clips that are near the front bumper. 

2. Remove two bolts that hold the power steering cooler in front of the radiator and the three bolts that secure the transmission cooler and put the coolers on top of the stabilizer bar for now. 

3. Disconnect the Evaporative hose that runs along the frame near the drivers side floorboard area. 

4. Disconnect the fuel filler tube from the body by removing the three bolts under the fuel door and one bolt on bottom. When raising the body have someone help watch the fill pipe to make sure it doesn’t snag on anything. 

5. Disconnect the transmission shifter cable. It’s easiest to disconnect it at the transmission end. 

6. Disconnect the connector for the 4×4 transfer case actuator. Even if the vehicle doesn’t have four wheel drive, there is still a connector attached to the body. 

7. Disconnect the ground cable near the passenger floorboard area, it connects from the body to the frame. 

8. Remove the licsense plate bulbs sockets. Disconnect both running lights in front.

9. Disconnect the emergency brake cable along the frame just below the passenger rear floorboard area. 

10. Disconnect four electrical connectors below the starter relay including the battery cables and lower them down to sit on the frame. Remove two small grounds cables in the same area. 

11. Remove the cooling fan and shroud. Disconnect the master cylinder from the brake booster (leave brake lines connected) and unbolt the steering coupler. Unplug the main vacuum line from the engine side. Unplug the CKP (crank position sensor). Unplug ABS sensors at this time from the inner fender areas and the ABS module.

12. Recover the refrigerant from the A/C system. Disconnect the A/C lines from the A/C condenser and the lines going to the rear A/C. Disconnect heater hoses. 

13. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses (the upper from the engine, not the radiator side) Disconnect transmission lines from radiator.

14. There are ten body mounts on a Ford Expedition or a Lincoln Navigator. There is six on an F150. Use an 18mm socket and an air ratchet to remove. There are pairs of bolts positioned opposite of each other as you would expect. The first pair are just inside the rear hatch, the second pair are about two feet front of that. The third pair are just behind the front seats and are the hardest to get to, but by holding the carpet up with a pry-bar they can be accessed. The fourth pair are in the driver and passenger floorboard area. And the fifth pair of frame/body bolts are just behind the bumpers. (F150 have theirs behind front seat or under the rear seat, in the drivers and passengers floorboard area and front of the vehicle just behind the bumpers. 

15. Now the fun part. Position the rack legs to lift the body only and it helps ease the stress to have a couple of guys watch while raising the lift to avoid damage from any missed steps. If the vehicle has running boards, lift on the main brackets.

Linking: Please reference this article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/01/expedition-cylinder-head-removal-body-off/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: Ford, Expedition, Cylinder, Head, Removal, Body, Off, lincoln, navigator, head, gaskets, replacement, F150

2005 Corvette AC & Heat control door resembles a vertical blind.

Corvette has some amazing engineering! Who needs real doors to control airflow in the HVAC (Heating Ventilation & Air Conditioning) system, when you can have this material that rolls on spools. This is a masterfully designed system that lasts in most cases until the car is just out of warranty. Kidding aside, if you’re experiencing a problem with your Corvette’s air conditioning, this could be the issue. Codes can be stored and attempts at resetting or calibrating will fail. The weak point is where the material attaches to the spool, on the one pictured it was ripped clean away.

To change out the actuator, the dash needs to be removed. In the process of removing it will subsequently have to be dismantled piece by piece! Dashes on many cars can be removed or swung to allow access to the heater case, but this car is not designed like that. The steering column doesn’t have to be completely removed. Taking the steering wheel off allowed enough room to get the job done.

Nothing left but the hump.

The actuator cannot be changed with the case still attached to the firewall. The cross/support bar is in the way of removing the case and will need to be removed. Even then the case will need to be tilted to clear the hump for removal. Once the case is out on the bench, the actuator can then and only then be replaced easily.

The Vette is definitely more fun to drive than to repair.

Linking: Please reference this article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2008/12/corvette-hvac-actuator-bad-no-heat-control/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: Corvette,, HVAC,, Actuator,, Bad,, No, Blend, Control,, heater,, ac, problems,, heat

Courtesy of Brainstuck.com

Big three auto makers bubble is soon to burst, the question is should the Government bail them out? What is the best tool to use when it comes to their situation? What would your grandparents suggest? And what guarantee do we have that they won’t come back again later knocking on our door, begging for money like a drug addict in the middle of the night. What remains obviously apparent is that without bankruptcy, the big three will not be able to re-negotiate their obligations with the unions. No doubt, the unions have done their job of getting every dollar that they could for their members. The problem is, they may have just priced themselves out of a job.

Question: Should the US Government bail out the big three or should we let them go bankrupt?

Answer:In my opinion, rather than you and me (the US Government) borrowing money from the Chinese and writing the big three a check, we should let them clean up their own mess. After-all, unless they undergo some major restructuring, they are likely to be back asking for more money later, unless the market makes an unbelievable turnaround.

Question: What about all the jobs that would be lost if we allow GM and the others to go under?

Answer: It wasn’t the end of the world, when AMC (American Motors Corporation) went out of business. My guess is, that the Japanese car companies that have manufacturing plants in the US (and by the way are not struggling like the American companies) will take up the slack. They may take up the slack by simply increasing their market share or by some sort of takeover. Either way American jobs will still be here in one form or another.

Oh yeah, this is an automotive tool blog tailored to the automotive repair industry, this is how this ties in. No matter what the outcome, we are heading into some hard times. The good news for auto technicians is that there will be more people keeping their cars longer, insuring more repairs will be needed. Auto repair shops that are ready to provide dependable service are likely to benefit. Automotive repair shops must also be financially sound, with little debt so that they will be around and have the staying power required. I predict that automotive tool sales will increase on the Internet compared to tool truck sales. This makes the most sense, because of the lower overhead, on-line merchants are able to provide many of the same namebrand automotive tools that the tool trucks provide at a much lower cost. Try this. The next time you step onto the tool truck and see a brand we carry, for example an OTC Genisys Scan Tool or an SK wrench set. Write the product number down and search our site for a comparison price. Many times you’ll find up to a 50% difference in price.

What’s your thoughts on the bailing out the car manufacturers and other industries that may follow suite?

Tags: Big, Three, Bubble, To, Burst, Bailout, Bankruptcy, Best, Tool, industries

Video inspection scopes are now quite affordable.

Doctors have used fiber optic bore-scopes and endoscopes in the medical field for a longer period of time than automotive technicians have used inspection scopes in the automotive repair field. The high cost for these gadgets in the past prevented lower income fields from justifying the purchase of them. 

Like with many technology driven items, the cost of these useful tools has came down since their introduction. The lower cost, first on fiber optic borescopes and now more recently on video based inspection scopes has opened the market up and made the purchase of inspection scopes more feasible for other markets besides the medical field.    

The fiber optic borescope was once the only specialty tool of it’s type made for automotive and other inspections that require access to very tight areas. Using fiber optic boresopes can be a little awkward though. The small eyepiece on most fiberoptic borescopes require your eye to be positioned at just the right distance from the view finder to view the object. In addition, the distance from the wand to the subject and manual focusing is must be adjusted to view properly.

Video based inspection scope prices have came down to a very affordable range and are are easier to use compared to fiber optic borescopes. Most video inspection scopes have color monitors, not just a small eyepiece for viewing. Most video inspection scopes have an automatic focus feature instead of the manual focus found on fiberoptic borescopes. Image quality is superior in comparison and can be viewed by several people at the same time. Some video based scopes allow the capability to transfer still images and video to a lap top computer. Once saved as a file on the computer, the footage can be shared easily with clients if desired. This is sure to become a standard practice for after market extended car warranty companies. Auto warranty Inspectors can email their car inspection video to the warranty company as easily as they now send jpegs.

If considering the purchase of an inspection scope, then a video based inspection scope is worth a look (no pun intended).

Tags: bore, scope, endoscope, Fiber, Optic, fiberoptic, Borescopes, Video, Inspection, Scopes, auto, automotive, specialty, tool

See the quality difference in the Heli-Coil (top) & the Calvan (bottom)

In this automotive repair/tool blog we cover Ford spark plugs blown out of cylinder heads, it’s still a huge problem. To date we have sold hundreds of Calvan spark plug thread insert tool kits and have had no one call back to say it was too hard or it didn’t work. The included video makes the spark plug insert repair easy to understand and answers all the questions about how this job can be done in the vehicle saving thousands of dollars. We are commonly asked if the Calvan spark plug repair kit will work after TimeSert, Heli-Coil or some other thin, weak repair has failed and have blown out AGAIN. The answer is yes, Calvan inserts are much thicker than the competitor’s inserts and will work much like an over-size oil drain plug will work in a stripped out oil pan. Since the Calvan insert is not just a coil of wire like the Heli-Coil it is much stronger. And since the Calvan insert is thicker than the Time Sert, many times it can be used when the Time Sert is spit out.

Tags: time, sert, ford, spark, plug, blowout, spit, auto, automotive, repair, tool, triton, 4.6, 5.4, 6.8, insert