2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 Liter Engine with a P1281 Code.

This automotive repair article is on a specific check engine light code for a Jeep Grand Cherokee. When scanned with an automotive scan tool, a P1281 fault code was retrieved. The code has to do with the engine not reaching operating temperature within a certain length of time after the vehicle has been started. For the catalytic converter to operate at it’s best the engine needs to reach it’s normal operating temp. The cooling system’s thermostat normally stays closed when the engine is cold, allowing the motor to warm up quickly. That’s why the trick of removing the thermostat to let the car run cooler, like back in the 1970’s (prior to on-board computers) doesn’t work well anymore.

Back to repairing this specific vehicle. In most cases, a P1281 fault code like the one that caused this CEL (Check Engine Light) to come on; means that the thermostat is either stuck open, or that it has simply fallen apart. In either case it is no longer capable of closing and it cannot stop the flow of anti-freeze throughout the cooling system. This keeps the engine from reaching the normal temperature range within the expected time-frame. When the optimal range is not obtained, the fuel mixture will be too rich, the fuel doesn’t burn as well and catalytic converters aren’t as efficient. Other things can even be affected like the transmission shift points. Shift points may take longer to reach, making the engine wind out more to warm it up sooner.   

This thermostat is an easy one to change.

As can be seen in the image above, the thermostat came out in pieces. Before installing a new thermostat, the old gasket material must be cleaned one of two ways. 1. With a gasket scraper (old school).  or 2. A roloc type scotch grinding disc and a 90 degree die grinder. Most gaskets for this application have self adhesive backings to help hold them in place. If the gasket doesn’t have adhesive, a little 3M glue can be used to hold everything in place until the bolts can be secured. One mistake made by beginners and by professional techs that get into too much of a hurry,  is to allow the replacement t-stat to fall out of the recess while installing it. If the thermostat housing is tightened up with the thermostat out of position, the housing can be cracked easily. Other than that,  it is a pretty straight forward job. After replacing the thermostat, a Lisle coolant funnel can be used to help burp the air out of the cooling system and fill the over-flow reservoir. Once that is done it’s time to clear the code with a scan tool or code reader.

Question: Is there anything else that could throw a P1281 fault code?

Answer: In most cases it will be due to a bad thermostat, but yes. A faulty temperature sending unit could possibly fool the computer into thinking that the engine did not warm up properly. They have this one worked out pretty well though. The computer is likely to get suspicious of an engine that has been running 20 minutes and still hasn’t reached normal operating temperature.

More about suspected false readings from gauges.

When I suspected a false temperature reading, I would always check with my Genisys scan tool and monitor the data screen. Sometimes there will be two sensors, one for the gauge and one for the computer. I would compare the reading on the data screen and the temperature on the car’s gauge. These readings should be about the same, so if there is a huge difference in the readings then, one is most likely faulty or the gauge itself could be reading inaccurately.

Question: I’m a service writer and many times when I try to get a thermostat covered under an aftermarket warranty the claim is denied. What is the best way to describe the cause and correction to have the best chance of getting this covered?

Answer: I would write this up the following way to provide the information the warranty company needs to make their decision.

Concern: Customer states the CEL (Check Engine Light) is on.

Cause: Scanned P1281, thermostat malfunction indicated. Engine takes too long to reach operating temperature. Verified the thermostat is stuck in the open position – vehicle has no impact damage or aftermarket modifications.

Correction: Installed replacement t-stat and replenished coolant. Cleared code and retested to verify repair and correct concern.
 

Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/08/jeep-grand-cherokee-scanned-p1281-fault-code/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Auto repair information/tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: Jeep, Grand, Cherokee, Scanned, P1281, Fault, Code, thermostat

Image courtesy of TitanTalk.com

The Internet has many oil leak stories from customers that have had bad experiences at Jiffy Lube and other auto repair shops throughout the country. Sometimes the oil leak is due to an inexperienced oil lube tech making a rookie mistake, like double gasketing a filter. Another common mistake is not cleaning the mating surface of the gasket or using the incorrect oil filter to begin with. These can be horror stories no matter which end of the spectrum you are positioned in. It’s horrible public relations for any repair shop to have a previous patron telling everyone who will listen, how awful their experience was. In their mind if the repair shop was the last one to touch their car, they MUST be responsible! Sometimes this is the case, but other times the repair shop is NOT at fault. The following is what happened several years ago when a customer had his car towed to us after all the oil leaked out, following a Jiffy Lube oil change.

The car was brought in on the hook with no oil. After adding oil and briefly starting the engine, oil streamed from the base of the filter. My first thought was that it must have a double gasket. To my surprise the oil filter was tight and there was only one gasket. It was too late for the engine though, it obviously had severe top and bottom end damage. After pricing a used engine replacement for the customer, they were determined to have Jiffy Lube pay the bill. To make a long story short, a hearing was scheduled and I was subpoenaed. I really didn’t know the cause of failure , I could only assume since the filter was the correct one, it was tight and there was no double gasket, there must have been dirt on the mating surface. I reluctantly went to court for the hearing. I must say, Jiffy Lube was very professional and was able to provide a very reasonable explanation for the problem. The lesson that they provided that day is what I want to pass along to other repair shops that may be accused wrongly of faulty work or using an inferior or incorrect oil filter when doing an oil change. 

A little exaggerated, the end of the filter can round with excessive pressure. 

I recommend that all shops that routinely do oil changes bookmark this page in case they are ever faced with this situation. After-all, auto repair shops get a bad rap too often and are usually assumed guilty until proven innocent. The pdf linked here along with a diagram, shows what happens when there is excessive pressure from a stuck oil pressure regulating valve. This document along with a damaged filter (one that shows signs of bulging) can be enough evidence in court to prevent a verdict that would require the shop to replace an engine. Note that canister type oil filters, regardless of which brand, always have a flat portion on the end. If exposed to too much oil pressure, the flat portion will bulge and make the filter more rounded on the end. If an oil filter cannot be placed on the surface of a level table without tipping over, it has been exposed to too much pressure. The technical service bulletin I’m talking about is provided by filtercouncil.org  – TSB 83-1R2.

One final note, I’ve never personally used oil filter wrenches to tighten an oil filter. I’ve always justed tightened them by hand, but here is another interesting TSB regarding using filters that have either been dropped and dinged or that might have creases from someone thats gone a little crazy using a wrench to tighten a filter.

Tags: Oil, Filter, Leaks, After, Oil, Change, TSB, for, Excessive, Pressure

2003 Ford Taurus with a P1131 oxygen sensor fault code 3.0 DOHC

This automotive repair blog covers a couple of common fault codes that sets the SES (Service Engine Soon) or CEL (Check Engine Light) whichever term you prefer to use. The codes are a P1131 or a P1151, the P1131 is related to B1 S1 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) oxygen sensor which is located near the firewall on the 3.0 DOHC Taurus pictured above. The P1151 is related to the bank that is located near the radiator. There are several probable causes of these codes, we’ll cover the possibilities to help in diagnosing this particular problem.

Tags: Ford, P1131, P1151, Fault, Codes, 3.0, DOHC, O-2, Diagnostics, oxygen, sensors, o-2

Cutting nails short keeps dirt from getting underneath – still stains

The picture above is of a neglected thumb (Not a nasty middle finger). Our hands are the most valuable tools we possess, it makes sense to protect them. I remember when I first started turning wrenches, you were a sissy and a wimp if you were afraid to get your hands dirty. I used to be constantly exposed to grease, oil, mineral spirits, carb cleaner and brake clean. I recall working I in a 10 bay shop, with the bays lined up in a row. Many times I was 6 to 9 bays away from the nearest sink, where we washed our hands. I would many times use brake clean to spray off my hands, to save time. In addition I  was frequently washing my hands with cleaners and hand soaps that would dry my hands out allowing the grime to easily work it’s way deep into my skin. Needless to say, my hands were constantly stained. The only time my hands would really come clean was when I went on vacation, especially to the beach. After a week away from dirt and grime, my hands in the salt water frequently for that week, my hands would finally get back to normal. My wife would always comment “your hands are so clean”.  Then back into the grease I would go until another year passed and it was vacation time again.

Stains will not wash off  – they wear off

Later in my auto mechanics career, I realized that wearing latex or nitrile gloves were the only way to go. Instead of having to wash my hands before pulling a car out of the shop, all I had to do is take the disposable gloves off and I was on my way. This saved time and made me available for my next job sooner. When using adhesives like super glue or two part epoxy, gloves protect your hands and being able to peel them off quickly, helps prevent getting the adhesive on tools or the customer’s car.

Latex gloves sometimes causes allergic reactions for some people. Nitrile gloves are recommended for those that have sensitivity to latex products. Many new colors are available, including the most recent, I’ve seen…BLACK (Microflex Midknight Black nitrile gloves). 

Nitrile gloves usually cost a little more, but in most cases they last longer resisting easy tears.

At home I’ve found even more uses for nitrile gloves. Doing sprinkler repairs is a perfect example, when it comes time to use PVC solvent and glue, the gloves go on. Nothing seems to be worse about drying  your hands out than purple solvent and PVC glue. My wife even likes to have latex gloves on standby in the kitchen. After she makes hamburger patties or cuts up a chicken, she says it’s nice to be able to take the gloves off and throw them away, then you know your hands are safe to go into the utensil drawer.

We’ve got one customer that hangs drywall, that’s sold on nitrile gloves. Drywall joint compound can really dry out your hands. He likes the nitrile gloves also because he can still feel what he is doing. He says that since DenLors has free shipping at $99 and no sales tax outside the state of Florida, he’ll keep coming back.

Tags: latex, gloves, nitrile, gloves, best, tools, automotive, mechanics

Photo coutresy of Nashville City Paper

Dave Ramsey is becoming more and popular these days, especially with the troubling financial times we are finding ourselves in. Dave Ramsey is a financial expert and writer, his most popular book is called The Total Money Makeover. He’s earned the title of financial guru by learning the hard way about finances and the risk of going head over heals in debt. Dave was leveraged in real estate investments to the tune of four million dollars over twenty years ago. As fate would have it, he lost it all when his short term loans were sold and the new banks demanded payment before it was possible for Dave to deliver. This experience has caused Dave to change his thinking on loans and personal finance. He now advises people to pay debt off and cut up the credit cards. I personally like his country boy, down to earth, shoot it to you straight mentality. Dave Ramsey reminds me of a teacher that I had back in high school. Frank Gentry, my old marketing teacher, had a similar laid back teaching style. Dave Ramsey’s lessons encourage you to think and grow. Few teacher’s names are remembered years later in life unless they have truly affected your way of thinking and how you view opportunites. Dave, like my old marketing teacher is definitely a “glass is half full” type of guy. If your sick and tired of living your life “pay check to pay check”, then you’ll definitely want to listen to what Dave has to say.

I’m no Dave Ramsey, but I can tell you that for over twenty years that I turned wrenches I never owed money to Snap On, Matco or any other tool trucks. No doubt, the tool trucks are definitely convenient, but as with many convenient products, like the ones offered at corner stores, a premium price is paid. My advice to anyone in the automotive repair industry, is to shop on-line to find many of the same auto tools that the tool trucks offer, at a huge savings (many times up to 50% off). Start by paying off the tool truck if you owe him money. Once you’re able to pay for the tools you need as you go, you’ll be keeping a lot more of your hard earned paycheck. Dave advises to get rid of all credit cards once they are paid off. I think that if used wisely though, credit cards are OK. In fact, if you own a shop and are able to use a credit card for purchasing parts from your vendors, it could even be profitable. For instance, say you buy $25,000 worth of parts in a month with a credit card that pays you back 1%. That means you will earn $250 for using the bank’s money. The catch would be if you fail to pay the balance off on time. Also, details of how interest is figured has to be studied closely. Some credit cards will charge you fees even if the balance is paid off in full every month. I have a Bank of America credit card that is used for the business, I routinely receive $500-750 back in the form of a check. With the economic climate we are heading into, planning is a must and making the best choices on how we spend our money may make the difference between success and failure. If you’re an auto mechanic or a shop owner it may be time for a Total Tool Budget Makeover.

Tags: Total, Tool, Budget, Makeover, Dave, Ramsey, auto, automotive, money, repair,, shop

VW New Beetle rear quarter window regulator kits are available.

In this how to auto blog, we mention the auto tools needed to complete rear quarter window regulator repair on the VW New Beetle. Fair warning though, this job may be too involved for the average DIY (Do It Yourself-er). Labor time in the Mitchell labor guide calls for 2.4 hours each side ( the first time it will probably take longer) for changing the rear quarter window assembly, no extra combination time is listed for installing the repair kit. Getting this job done at the dealer could cost from six to eight hundred dollars, or around two to three hundred for the repair kit installed. Even if you don’t do this job yourself, at least now you know your options.

Window regulators for the VW New Beetle, were once only available as a complete assembly that included the window glass, window regulator and window motor as a complete assembly. The cost of these assemblies as mentioned before, is in the hundreds of dollars at the VW dealer. And buying a used rear quarter window regulator assembly (that may fail after it has been used a few times), is just not a good idea even if it has a warranty, due to the labor involved to install one. The good news is, that rear quarter window regulators recently became available from the Volkswagen dealers for just a fraction of the cost of the whole assembly. The bad news is that the weak design is not improved upon. The integrity of the window regulator centers around one part, the cable retainer.

The X is on the weak cable retainer that commonly fails.

The cable retainer is a plastic piece that links and holds the two cable ends together. In some other VW and BMW cars, window regulator repair kits included upgraded parts that tend to fail. The plastic components are replaced with metal parts that greatly improve the strength of the window regulator decreasing the chance of it failing prematurely. Unfortunately at the time of this tech article, replacement parts in the rear quarter window repair kit from VW are the same as the original. 

Remove the quarter trim to access the regulator.

Put the top down to begin this not so enjoyable experience. Remove the bottom of the back seat by lifting and swinging it forward and unhooking the metal pivot rod from it’s attaching brackets. The headrest cushions just pull off. Six millimeter Allen bolts at the bottom, hold the backrest portion of the seat. Once the back seat is out of the way look for the hidden ten millimeter nut that holds the rear of the quarter trim in place, remove it with a 10mm socket, like in this socket set.

Proceed With Caution: Be careful not to break the linking rod for the trim door that covers the convertible hinge. This rod is not available by itself, the entire door assembly would have to be purchased that costs about $375. It’s best to remove this rod and put it in a safe place for now. Notice the cable that attaches to the rod on the door end. Also be careful not pull on the cable or the tiny plastic guide will have to be put back into place on the underside of the door assembly.

The quarter trim is held in place by plastic retainers and one metal clip. After prying the quarter trim loose with a trim stick and your hands, carefully pull it away, unplugging electrical connectors for speakers and the power door actuator. The 17mm bolt for the seat belt can be removed with a 17mm metric socket to allow the quarter trim panel to be pulled towards the center of the car and  laid down on a blanket or drop cloth to prevent it from being marred. 

Remove the speaker assemblies using a small 20mm torx socket and a 1/4″ extension. Note there are washers for these screws that may fall. Pull back the weather stripping without removing it completely. It’s easier to pull it back just enough to remove the top metal bracket, than to remove it completely and have to fit the weather stripping back into place when putting it back together. With a socket, remove the 5mm Allen bolts and 10mm bolts that hold the top metal bracket. Remove the 10mm triple sqaure or spline bolt for the convertible hinge mechanism (there are three, just remove the top one).

Remove the regulator assembly by taking out the three 13mm attaching nuts, don’t loosen the Allen studs because this will change the window adjustment. Roll the window about 3/4’s of the way up before unplugging the motor. In addition to the automotive tools mentioned in this auto tech article, you’ll need a pair of cutters to cut the cables if they are tangled up and don’t allow the window to move. If the window is all the way down it will be impossible to remove the assembly through the small opening. Lay the assembly on a work space for regulator replacement.

New Beetle Quarter Window regulator kit installation

Installation of the quarter window regulator kit assembly is simple after the assembly is out so it can be worked on (the motor is held on with T-30 torx bolts). The plastic cable retainer is under a lot of stress as you will see when putting this together. The guides should be well lubricated with a silicone, like sil glyde or white lithium grease. Any binding when the window is going up can cause the window to go down as if it were obstructed, for safety reasons.

Putting it back together is of course the opposite of removal. But when operating the window and the convertible top for the first time after re-assembly, go slow and watch for any obstructions or anything out of place, you don’t want to break anything especially one of those tiny door actuator rods that would cost a fortune to replace. Don’t panic at first if the window stops going up and goes right back down. After the window is operated several times the cable will center itself and start working normally.

Linking: Please reference this article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2008/10/new-beetle-quarter-window-replacement-auto-tools/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: tech, article, blog, vw, volkswagen, New, Beetle, Quarter, Window, Replacement, how, to, Auto, Tools, automotive

Northstar water pump replacement, not so bad with correct mechanics tool

This automotive tool blog features a specialty auto mechanics tool for changing the Northstar water pump. The Cadillac Northstar water pump is located at the rear of the engine. As the picture shows, there is a belt cover over the water pump drive belt at the rear of the front valve cover. The special mechanics tool required for this job used to be only available in more expensive specialty tool brands like Schley Products. If the tool is to be used frequently, the more expensive version of the specialty may be the best choice. If the mechanic only changes a few of these a year, the Lisle Northstar mechanics tool will work just fine. 

Remove the air cleaner to access the water pump

Mechanics tools make life easier, in fact without this specialty tool, replacement is simply is not possible. First access the water pump by removing the air cleaner housing and swing the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) out of the way. Remove the water pump drive belt cover and belt. The water pump fits inside the coolant housing.

Access by securing outer coolant housing out of the way

Auto Tools required up this point are everyday, common auto mechanic tools that most mechanics will already have in their tool box. Of course the spring hose clamps can be removed much easier with the correct hose clamp tools as opposed to regular pliers. The professional auto technician more than likely already has a nice set of Mayhew hose clamp tools.

Northstar water pump revealed

This Waterpump tool is only used on the Northstar. The water pump is a twist in design. The Northstar water pump socket slips in around the waterpump and catches the tabs. A simple twist and the water pump comes out. Be sure that the old o-ring seal is removed. The rubber seal comes out easily, and the good thing is there’s no gasket scraping needed for the water pump itself. Gasket removal is needed for many other water pumps, but this one has a removable seal and it is easy to access. If there is any corrosion build up on the housing this should be removed. Gluing the new seals in place may be necessary to hold them in place for installation.

Lisle waterpump tool use

Water-pump Removed

Automotive specialty tools like this makes certain jobs a piece of cake. Without this specific mechanic tool, the tech finds himself down the creek, well you know the rest.

Tags: Northstar, Water, Pump, waterpump, replacement, Job, Mechanics, Tools, auto, tools, specialty, automotive, lisle, schley, products, training, article