Summary: This article is about Dodge Ram pick up trucks that have a common air-flow problem with the HVAC (Heating Ventilation & Air Conditioning) system. The problem causes little heat (or AC depending the time of the year) to flow through the vents. The blower fan can typically be heard with no abnormal sounds, although no air seems to be making it out of  the vents. We go over parts that need to be removed to gain access to replace a common failed component.

A common problem for the Dodge Ram pick up truck is to have low airflow even though the blower fan can be heard loud and strong. Usually the problem is because of a broken fresh air door – AKA recirculate door. The fresh air door is located behind the glove box area. What can happen is the door can break and fall down covering the blower fan, essentially sealing off  all air-flow. That’s why the blower can sound normal on all speeds, but little air can be felt from the vents. The broken door below shows the point at which the break is common.

In the image below, the x’s mark most of the trim pieces that need to be removed to gain access to bolts which hold the dash. One that is not marked is on the top of the dash, it’s the large trim panel which is not visible in the picture. This can be an easy job to do at home since the air conditioning system does not have to be discharged. In fact nothing on the firewall side has to be disturbed.

Note that the steering coloumn is unbolted and allowed to drop down and is not unbolted at the steering coupler. Undo the stop light swith to prevent stress on the wiring when the dash is swung.

Below the new door assembly can be seen back in position and the dash can now be re-installed.

Reverse the removal process of the securing bolts and trim panels and the job is done.

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Low Air Flow From AC Vents – Auto Repair Tips/Tools

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Jeep Grand Cherokee Dual Zone AC Repair

Car Heater Blows Cold – Auto Service Tips

Tags: Dodge, Ram, Low, Air, Flow, AC, Vents, air, conditioning, door, recirculate

2004 Dodge Stratus 

In this automotive repair blog, we provide some helpful information on how to R&R (Remove and Replace) the evaporator in a 2004 Dodge Stratus. Replacing the heater core is basically the same job, except for the replacement of the receiver drier. These tips are for the 4 door sedan, yes the the coupe and the convertible may be different depending on the year. If working on a different model or year it would be advisable to refer to an auto repair manual. Auto repair manuals provide detailed info on changing components like the evaporator in any model. Just keep in mind that for evaporator or heater core replacement, most of them will say “see removal of instrument panel.” Which is accurate except for the fact that if all you’re doing is moving the dash to access the evaporator case, dismantling the dash isn’t really needed. If the instrument panel is removed as described in most auto repair manuals, many more parts will be removed unnecessarily.

After verifying the evaporator is the cause of the refrigerant leak with a dependable Freon leak detector, we’re ready to start. Remove the refrigerant with an AC recovery machine. If doing this at home, keep in mind the only legal way to remove the 134A is with a recovery machine. Some repair shops will recover the refrigerant and when the job has been completed and the car is taken back to the shop, they will pull the vacuum and recharge the system. I’ve done this before for customers, it wasn’t always my favorite thing to do since dealing with DIY’ers was a hassle because sometimes there would be leaks that the customer did not detect, they cut an o-ring, or some other part of the repair just wasn’t right. However if the work was done properly it was easy money for me, I would let the AC machine do most of the work and I would flag 1.4 hours.

After the Refrigerant is Removed

Disconnect the battery for safety when doing any dash work. Keep in mind that there may be some residual pressure left in the system, so when removing the first refrigerant line there could be a little refrigerant oil spraying out . Start on the outside, by removing the drier and disconnecting the lines going to the expansion valve. Disconnect the heater hoses with spring clamp pliers or a hose clamp cable tool. Pliers will work but sometimes access can be difficult.  Next there are three ten millimeter nuts on the firewall that go to the evaporator case, those will need to be removed before moving on to the inside of the car to work. Wait until last to install the new drier since prolonged exposure to the atmosphere can contaminate the desiccant by allowing it to absorb moisture from the outside air.

Working Inside the Car 

Pop the trim at the bottom of the doorways and lay them to the side. The screws that hold the kick plates can now be accessed and removed. Pull the weatherstripping away partially and drape them on the outside of the doors. The pillar trim panels are removed with a trim stick and pulling by hand. Then the large trim panel that runs along the top of the dash is pry-ed out carefully not to scratch any surfaces. Careful working around the windshield, since a slip of a tool can crack it fairly easily. Remove the 4 10mm bolts and 5 Phillips screws along the top of the dash that are now exposed. Remove the glove box by pressing in the tabs and swinging it down and unhinging it. Remove two 10mm nuts securing the dash to the case. Remove the small trim pieces on each side of the hump in front of the console and then the  two 10mm bolts that will then be exposed (one on each side). Remove the center console, by removing Phillips screws. The shifter knob can be removed or the PRNDL trim can be popped up and turned sideways and the console can be lifted over the trim to extract it.

Remove the power mirror switch and trim bezel, then the drivers knee bolster can be removed (one screw will now be exposed). The knee bolster is removed by taking out the Phillips screws. Unplug wiring that may not have enough slack when the dash is swung. Care should be taken not to move the steering wheel from center when the coupler is loosened. If the steering wheel is turned, the clock-spring for the airbag in the wheel can be broken! With this in mind, remove the steering coupler at the bottom near the floor using a T40 torx. To the right of the steering column remove the 10mm bolt that goes up to the evaporator case, also in this area unplug the wiring plug that goes to the case. Remove the stoplight switch (by twisting it counter-clockwise) this will prevent it from being broken from bumping it when the dash and case is swung out. The case stays attached to the back of the dash until the dash is swung out. 

Have a friend help swing the dash out by unhooking it on each end and swinging it out on the passenger side (it’s awkward and bulky). There is a wire harness that is on the right side that can be maneuvered around the case ; it can be left plugged in. Remove the last 10mm nut freeing the evaporator case from the dash. By lifting up on the dash the case can now be removed.

Evaporator or Heater Core Replacement with Case Out

Once the case is out, pull back the seals that are glued to the case near the lines. Remove the expansion valve with a torx socket and the 8mm screws that hold the case halves together. After splitting the case the evaporator and heater core are exposed. Careful not to break the temperature probe that is positioned in the fins of the evaporator. Blow out the case with compressed air, any debris or leaves that end up in the blower can cause noisy operation. Switch the insulating material over to the replacement evaporator and put the case halves back together being careful to line up the doors. Don’t force anything or taking it all back apart again later will be on the list of things to do.

Installation is of course the reverse of the procedure laid out above. If additional repair information is needed for this and future projects be sure to check out ALL Data, they have several subscription levels available for weekend warriors. They provide all the information that professional shops have access to, it is all on-line, instantly accessed after signing up.

Linking: Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/08/change-heater-core-or-ac-evaporator-2004-dodge-stratus/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: Change, Heater, Core, AC, Evaporator, 2004, Dodge, Stratus, replacement, how, to

Leaves accumulated near the fresh air intake can enter the car’s evaporator case.

There are several things that can cause low airflow from a vehicle’s air conditioning system. The strongest blowing vents are the middle ones with the setting adjusted to maximum or recirculate. On the max setting, the air is recirculated in the passenger compartment. Obstructions can include leaves, loose articles from the glove-box, a broken or out of position door in the Heating Ventilating & Air Conditioning (HVAC) case.

Most people don’t realize that many vehicles come with a cabin air filter. One of the first things to check for when experiencing low airflow is to see if the car has a cabin air filter and if it does, check to see if it’s dirty. The cabin air filter is very similar to a home air-conditioning filter just on a smaller scale. Like the home air-conditioning filter, the cabin air filter for a car can become dirty and restrict air flow. In addition to the dirt and pollen, a car’s air-conditioning filter can also be obstructed by leaves. This is especially true if the car is regularly parked under trees. A quick check in the vehicles owner’s manual should reveal if the car has one and where it is located.

Usually cabin air filters are found in the following locations

1. Many BMW car’s and some others are located under the hood just below the windshield.
2. Numerous autos have the filter located behind the glove box.
3. On many Chrysler vehicles there’s a thin removable panel on the passenger side, lower portion of the evaporator case (behind dash panel) to access the filter. This is a good place since debris like leaves will settle in the bottom and can be easily cleaned out when the filter is being changed. 

Glove compartments usually aren’t sealed off, this can allow items to fall out the back. 

Overflowing glove compartments – noisy blower motor

The air return is usually located behind the glove box. Sometimes with an “over full” glove box; contents like napkins, vehicle registration or anything else can fall out of the back of the compartment when it is closed and can be drawn into the air return. If this happens, the air flowing into the return can be restricted causing less air to blow out of the vents. If debris ends up traveling all the way to the blower fan, vibration and a low flow will be the result. Just one leaf in a blower motor fan can cause noise and vibration. On some cars the glove box door can be unhooked and swung down to check for articles that may have fallen out of the glove compartment; with some luck the obstruction could be on the outside of the air return. Other times the blower motor may need to be removed and any foreign debris removed. The fan attached to the blower motor is round and sometimes called a squirrel cage, due to it looking a lot like a hamster exercise wheel. On numerous vehicles the blower motor is fairly simple to remove, with others it can be quite a task. If it can’t be determined how big of a job it is to remove the blower motor by just looking at it, a service manual can be checked to see how involved it is on the particular model. Even the labor time can indicate if it’s an easy job or more involved. A lot of times a noisy or vibrating blower motor is remedied simply by removing it, cleaning it and reinstalling it.

More serious problems

It’s good to start with the basics but if the cabin air filter and the blower are not the cause of low airflow, then an actuator or HVAC door could be the problem. Sometimes an actuator which is a small electric motor or vacuum operated device for moving the doors within the case can fail. Without the actuators working properly the air isn’t directed the way it’s supposed to go causing low airflow or incorrect airflow. Other times the door itself can break causing similar problems. If the fresh air/recirculate door breaks, it can sometimes fall down over the blower fan almost restricting the airflow completely.

Question – I have no airflow. Someone told me the resistor might have gone out. The blower motor does not run at all, can you help?

Answer – Usually with a bad blower resistor, the high speed would still work; so I wouldn’t suspect that is your problem. The most common causes would either be a bad blower motor or a poor connection at the electrical plug (that goes to the blower motor).

Question - I have a 2006 Pontiac GTP, I can’t see any screws holding the blower motor – how do I change it?

Answer - The blower motor plastic housing has to be cut to remove it. There is a thin groove to guide the cut, use a hot knife to easily cut it. Be careful and stay within the groove though because the plastic housing will be re-used with the replacement motor.

Question - I have plenty of airflow, but the air is not cold – any suggestions?

Answer  -Start with checking the pressure readings for the AC system. Most of the time if the air conditioning is not cold, it’s because of low refrigerant.

Question – I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee with dual zone AC. Why would the passenger side AC be hot and the driver’s side is cold?

Answer - Sounds like there is either a bad actuator or a faulty blend door, see our auto repair tech article covering this common problem with Grand Cherokee broken blend doors.

If there are questions related to ”Low Air Flow From AC Vents – Auto Repair Tips and Tools” that weren’t covered, feel free to ask your question below – only truly relevant questions will be published. Thanks.

Linking: Please reference this article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/06/low-air-flow-from-ac-vents-auto-repair-tipstools/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.

Tags: low, air, flow, AC, vents, auto, repair, tips, tools

Robinair AC Manifold gauge set was originally for R12, it has been adapted for 134A

To properly diagnose an AC system the use of a manifold gauge set is needed. AC gauge pressure readings help professional auto technicians determine if the system is low and exactly what is going on with the car’s A/C system. A 134A gauge set is also used when attaching a vacuum pump to the car for evacuating/removing the air out of AC components. If air is left in the system, the moisture it contains combines with refrigerant under pressure can cause a corrosive acid to form that can destroy evaporators, condensers or even the AC compressor from the inside.

So obviously since air mixed with 134A refrigerant is such a harmful combination, whenever service has been performed, evacuating the system with a vacuum pump is recommended. Simply pull a vacuum down on the AC system with the use of a manifold gauge set and a vacuum pump prior to charging the system. When the system is in a vacuum the boiling point is also reduced which in turn removes moisture that would otherwise be left behind.

What are the best brands when it comes to an AC manifold gauge set? 

• Like most things we purchase, the cheaper brands are usually of inferior quality. It also depends on how much use the 134A Gauge set will be exposed to. I would recommend staying away from the lower end products sold by some parts stores or Harbor Freights. The brands that professionals use is what I would recommend like CPS, Robinair and Mastercool.

How does a vacuum pump attach to the car’s AC system?

• The evacuation process is only done with NO refrigerant in the car’s air conditioning system. If any refrigerant is in the vehicle it must be recovered by an AC recovery machine. In the old days the refrigerant was just released (vented) but that is illegal now as it should be, due to environmental concerns. With an empty system, the yellow hose on the AC gauge set attaches to the vacuum pump. The red hose attaches to the high side (large fitting) and the blue hose attaches to the low side (small fitting) on the car. The high and low side valves are opened and the vacuum pump turned on. The needles on the gauges will go down with the blue low side reading 28-29 in the vacuum range.

 After the system has been in vacuum for at least fifteen minutes, how is the system charged?

• Both valves are closed on the 134A manifold gauge set. Then the vacuum pump is disconnected. If using a can tap with small cans the correct amount of refrigerant is added. Consider the capacity of the cans and see how much Freon the car holds by checking the specifications for the car - most of the time there will be sticker under the hood. If using a 30 pound container a weight scale has to be used to obtain the correct amount.

Why don’t I see the mechanic at the shop using a weight scale? 

• Professional auto repair techs will use an AC machine most of the time with a scale built into the unit. The AC recovery machine will not just recover, it will recycle, vacuum a system down and correctly charge a car’s air conditioning system. A good AC machine is a real money maker  for a shop that does a lot of AC work. It’s also required by law to properly recover the refrigerant. It’s an added bonus to the shop, since they are able to recycle the freon and then sell it back to the customer.

I don’t understand what my gauge readings mean, can you help?

• That is a subject for a different auto repair article – luckily we have that covered, see AC Gauge Readings Explained.

What I look for in an AC Manifold Gauge set is a quality brand and I prefer 72″ hoses to allow a longer reach. It’s nice to be able to hook the gauges up, hang them from the hood and still be able to reach the source tank on the floor or service cart. I used a cheap gauge set once and the hoses were so short that after hooking up to the car and the freon tank it wouldn’t reach the hood. Brass manifolds are usually cheaper than aluminum block manifolds, that doesn’t matter to me as long as it’s a quality tool. I also prefer the needle type gauges and not the digital readout ones. Although I adapted it from R12 to 134A, I’ve had the same Robinair AC gauge set for twenty years and this remains one of the best air conditioning tools I’ve ever purchased!

Linking: Please reference this article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page. 1. Left click the link; http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/06/134a-ac-refrigerant-manifold-gauge-set-air-conditioning-tools/ to highlight 2. Right click, select copy 3. Right click and paste to forum, blog web page etc. Thanks! Disclaimer: Repair tips are designed for informational purposes only, without warranty of any kind, in no event shall the author of this site be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages sustained in the course of using the information in this article.  

Tags: 134A, Refrigerant, AC, Gauge, Set

AC Machine by Robinair

Robinair AC machines are the most popular machines for servicing car air conditioning systems in repair shops throuought the USA. Robinair is an industry leader in the air conditioning field, developing new and innovative products. Robinair was started in 1956 by the Kent-Moore Corporation in Michigan. The Robinair division of Kent Moore was created to design and manufacture specialty tools for repairing home appliances.

The Robinair name was a created by joining two of Kent-Moore executive’s names, Robinette and Adair. It was lucky that the use of the last part of the second name was “air” since the popularity of air conditioning back then was increasing by leaps and bounds. Robinair recognized the demand for servicing home AC, car air conditioning and moved towards the manufacture of AC servicing equipment. Robinair quickly changed to meet the needs of the air conditioning service market earning a very large share of the new industry. Today air conditioning technicians, especially in the automotive field mostly prefer to use Robinair AC machines due to their ease of use and dependability .

Recycling

Recycling has always been important to Robinair. In fact Robinair was the first company to offer an AC machine for refrigerant recovery and recycling. This was in direct response to the concern of the environmental impact that releasing chlorofluorocarbons has on depleting the ozone. The ROB 34788 meets the newest standards, if any other AC machine is considered it undoubtedly has to be compared to see if it measures up to a Robinair AC machine.

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) started a new program to reduce the amount of R-134A refrigerant that’s allowed to escape from the use of RRR (Recover, Recycle and Recharge) machines. The program was named I-MAC (Improved Mobile Air Conditioning), the idea was to reduce the emitting of refrigerant into the air as inexpensively as possible. I-MAC has came up with smaller AC machines that have fewer emissions (Refrigerant/Freon Leaks). The SAE passed more strict rules for automotive air conditioning recovery, recycling and recharging machines. The mandate was called SAE J-2788 which says that all AC machines made after November 1, 2007, must recover 95% of the refrigerant and recharge to within 1/2 ounce.

Robinair AC Machine

The Robinair AC Machine ”CoolTech ROB 34788″ meets the J-2788 mandate. The ROB34788 is one of the most popular AC machines made for servicing automotive ac systems. It’s got the ability to quickly recover, recycle, vacuum (AKA Evacuate and Recharge) the system with the right amount of 134A into the car’s air conditioning system – it can be set to automatically do this or for each phase to be started manually. The lowest amount of CFM’s (Cubic Feet per Minute) vacuum pump needed for automotive use is 1.2 CFM. The Robinair 34788 AC machine has more than enough CFM capacity, it’s included vacuum pump is neatly tucked away and rolls with the unit. The higher rated AC vacuum pump that’s built into the machine pulls vacuum down quicker than a lower rated vacuum pump would and that’s a plus! Once full vacuum is reached the boiling point is lowered and harmful moisture is boiled and therefore removed from the A/C system more efficiently. Removing the moisture can reduce the possibility of freeze-up in the car’s expansion valve or evaporator. Also moisture that combines with refrigerant under pressure can cause a corrosive acid that can corrode air conditioning components from within causing component leaks and/or failure. Air conditioning refrigerant oil is prone to absorb moisture that can result in the AC refrigerant oil sludging. Robinair air conditioning machines with higher capacity vacuum pumps help to remove more moisture faster, without loss of technician production.

AC System Capacities

Correctly charging air conditioning systems is crucial for optimum performance. Most cars and trucks have air conditioning refrigerant capacity labels under the hood. If the decal is not present or is not legible, the correct capacity must be looked up to insure the proper charge of Freon is put into the system. Overcharging the system can damage the compressor and cause the car not to cool as well. The ROB 34788 has a database that’s available (optional) for looking up air conditioning refrigerant capacities. Disks that store capacity info. are inserted into the expansion slot on the 34788 air conditioning machine. The Robinair AC machine with this feature can save time allowing the tech to be more productive.

AC Machine Filter Change Requirements

The J-2788 mandate requires that the A/C machines filter be changed after recovering and recycling 150 pounds (68 KG) of 134A refrigerant. The ROB 34788 prompts the user when it is time to replace the filter. The technician can easily change the spin on filter (ROB 34724) without the need to call for service. This particular A/C machine has a compartment on the rear of the unit to store an extra filter.

Auto techs using this machine benefit from automatic oil purging and passive 134A refrigerant refilling from the virgin tank - time savers that are appreciated by any tech that has had to fill an AC machine before he could fill the car!

The Robinair Cooltech 34788 AC machine includes free shipping and no sales tax charged outside the state of Florida. Also while supplies last see the ROB 34288, same great brand at an even lower cost.

Related article – Adding Freon To Car – AC Gauge Readings Explained

Tags: Robinair, AC, Machines, air, conditioning, Kent, Moore

New cars don’t stay new for long – sooner or later the AC will need Freon added

Adding freon or topping off a cars A/C system is the most common task performed to restore performance and get cold air blowing again. However, adding refrigerant isn’t always the solution for car air conditioning problems. There can be many other things wrong besides a system being low on refrigerant. To diagnose problems, an A/C manifold gauge set is needed to read high and low side pressure readings. Avoid adding refrigerant with a simple charging kit like the ones sold at parts stores. Don’t add any stop leak, this can cause problems in the compressor, expansion valve or condenser.

Keep in mind that using an A/C gauge set and seeing BOTH high and low side readings can help in diagnosing the problem when you know what to look for. First, on a 134A system the high and low side service ports are different sizes. AC gauge sets have color coded hoses, the blue color coded hose has a connection that fits on the low side service port and the red hose has a connection that will only fit onto the high side. The yellow hose won’t hook up to anything if just checking the readings; it can be used to connect to a vacuum pump or attached to a refrigerant can or tank.

*Make sure the condenser fan comes on when the readings are being checked.

Below are normal car AC pressure readings with 134A.

• Normal readings on high and low side with AC OFF (static pressure) – Depends on outside temperature, but normally is between 80-105 PSI
• Normal low side reading with AC on high speed and MAX & engine at 800-1000 RPM’s – Ranges from 25-35 PSI – Note that on many Chrysler products a normal reading on the low side may be 15-25 PSI
• Normal high side reading ranges from 200-350 PSI

Don’t assume that if adding little Freon is good that adding a lot is better! Overcharging just a little can decrease the performance of the system and possibly damage the compressor.

Additional Car A/C Info – Troubleshooting Gauge Readings

With the AC on the coldest setting, use a thermometer in a middle vent. Normal vent temperature readings will vary depending on the (ambient) outside temp. The vent temperature should range from around 42-55 degrees in my experience. If normal gauge readings are obtained and the vent air is cold – STOP don’t overcharge the system. The only proper way to remove refrigerant is with a AC recovery machine so if this is being done at home I can’t emphasize enough not to over charge the system. And actually the best way to insure the proper charge is in a system, is to use an AC machine to recover the freon and then evacuate and recharge the system with the correct amount. Most cars have the specified amount on a decal under the hood.

Both sides are lower than normal

Both low and high side readings are lower than normal, this indicates a cars AC system is low on refrigerant and is under-charged.

Both readings are higher than normal

If both low and high side readings are too high, this indicates an overcharged system – too much refrigerant. This also can indicate that the condenser fan is not working, is too slow or the car is overheating and heat is transferring from the radiator to the condenser.

Low side goes into a vacuum and high side is too high

When the low side goes so low that it’s reading shows it is in a vacuum, the most likely cause is a bad expansion valve or blocked orifice tube. Another possibility is a restricted condenser. Blocked condensers are not as common as they used to be but if a compressor fails and comes apart inside the remnants can end up in the condenser causing it to restrict the flow of refrigerant.

Low side is too high and high side is too low

When the compressor clutch is definitely engaged and the low side is high and the high side is low, the most likely cause is that the compressor is failing – it is not pumping sufficiently. Rarely an AC clutch could be slipping but usually this will be accompanied with a squeal or chirp. Also be sure not to overlook the obvious, like a loose belt!

Question: I have to add a can of freon every two weeks, where could it be going?

Answer: Obviously, the system has a leak. Some cars come with UV dye in their system already. Usually you can see some of the dye in the service port (a little might show after disconnecting the gauge set hoses). Look for dye or clear refrigerant oil on the AC components that would indicate a leak. In addition to a visual inspection, an electronic leak detector can be used to pinpoint the source of a leak. See our article with more information about Finding A/C leaks.

Question: I see the small line going into the evaporator on my Ford Explorer, it’s really sweating and very cold at one point. Is there a restriction in the line somehow?

Answer: Most Ford Explorers have an orifice tube (expansion tube) in the inlet of the evaporator. It’s normal for it to be cold – if it is frozen and the vent air is not cold then it may be plugged up. If upon removal there is metal debris caked onto the orifice tube, the compressor will need to be replaced.

Question: Why is there such a big temperature change in the AC lines? Some are very hot and some are cold is this normal?

Answer: The line going from the compressor to the condenser is the discharge line – it is normal for it to be very hot to the touch. The other line going from the drier or accumulator to the compressor is normally colder. The liquid line can be hot up to the point an orifice tube is in place. Just remember that LOW Pressure = COLD and HIGH Pressure = HOT.

Tags: Adding, Freon, Car, AC, Gauge, Readings, gauge, set