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Hello, my name is Dennis Bandy.  At the time I’m writing this, there’s over 200,000 ASE certified auto techs in the USA. There’s only 71,871 Master Auto Techs. I’m proud to be one of those ASE Certified Master Auto Technicians that’s tested and passed in 8 areas of expertise. I also have additional certifications which are not required for Master Automobile Technician status. In the past I’ve worked at Western Auto, Good Year, Pep Boys and Carmax. Like many auto mechanic’s, besides working at nicely equipped repair shops, I’ve also done my share of side jobs over the years to make some extra cash. Away from the shop, everything is a little more difficult. At home I’ve done everything from simple brake jobs to restoring a classic Mustang. A partial list of the jobs I’ve done at home are; intake gaskets, water pumps, head gaskets, replacing transmissions, rebuilding rear differentials, motor swaps, AC compressors, evaporators and the list goes on. With more than 25 years of experience in the car repair industry, I share my knowledge of certain repair jobs here. I’ve learned a lot from personal experience and also from the great auto technicians I’ve worked with in the past. 

ASE Master Tech

DenLors Tools History – which sells quality name-brand auto tools went “live” in 2005. DenLors’ Automotive Tool Blog’s first post on was June 14, 2008. DenLors Auto Blog is the official blog of DenLors Tools Plus LLC. We have car repair articles related to auto specialty tools, mechanics automotive tools and auto repair topics for the professional tech as well as the DIY’er. Our car repair blog is one of the first of it’s kind tailored specifically to automotive repairs and car specialty tools. Besides featuring mechanics specialty tools for certain automotive repairs, we also write about other related topics many of which are inspired by our customer’s inquiries. In communicating with our customers we get an understanding of what topics are important to cover. Chances are, if one person has a question or inquiry, others may have a similar problem or may be facing the same issue. So don’t be surprised if we post an article on a topic related to your question or inquiry!

I live in Parrish Florida which is near Bradenton. As one of the owners of DenLors Tools Plus LLC, my jobs include managing and marketing our automotive tool business. I write frequently for this blog and several other websites. We also run and the blog for that website.ASE Certifications

As people keep their cars longer, naturally automotive tools are needed for repairing them to allow them to go those extra miles. Our customers include the United States Government, car repair shops of all sizes including new car dealerships, used car lots, do it your-selfer’s and of course individual automotive technicians. In 2005 DenLors Automotive Tool business was started with the idea to sell quality automotive tools, which is something that we are knowledgeable and passionate about. With my more than 25 years as a Master Automotive Technician, selling auto tools is a natural fit. Since our start back in 05, we have grown tremendously and we think, it’s simple – you get what you give. We believe strongly in honesty, reliability and striving to exceed our customer’s expectations.

We also attribute our continued success to the following.

  • We sell quality automotive tools, auto shop supplies and repair shop equipment at discount prices.
  • Provide great customer service before and after the sale which earns repeat business.
  • Let’s face it, it’s hard to find good service anywhere these days; that’s why we surround ourselves with only the best staff possible – knowledgeable, helpful that adhere to the practice of treating others as they like to be treated.

Ideas for Blogs … If you have an auto repair shop, know of a tool manufacturer with a new or innovative product etc. that you would like to have featured on our auto repair/tool blog, use the comment form below, please include as much information as possible.

Linking … At this time we are not accepting offers to trade website links, so that we can provide only truly relevant and useful links to our visitors. We do allow “do follow links” to be associated with your comment as long as your comments are on topic and helpful to our readers. General comments that have nothing to do with the particular blog which are deemed to be spam will marked as such and deleted. An example of a worthless comment is “It is rare for me to find something on the cyberspace that’s as entertaining and fascinating as what you have got here. Your page is sweet, your graphics are outstanding, and whats more, you know what you’re talking about. You are definitely one in a million, good job!” Most garbage comments like that are filtered out automatically. Spam comments with keyword user names will also be deleted by me personally if it gets past the spam filter. Need I say more? Please no spam.

Plagiarism … Copying is a form of flattery right? Well not really when it comes to written material. We spend a lot of time creating our quality original content and we will not stand for another website to copy and paste our articles. If you would like to quote some words out of our blogs, we have no problem with that as long as a link is provided to the original article. We have had to file DMCA complaints before and certainly will again if the need arises. As of August 2011 we no longer offer an RSS link, due to low quality sites copying our content. Please check back often for new articles.

After you’ve checked out the tool/repair blog, please visit our tool websites which combined have over 100,000 product listings for all types of specialty tools, a wide variety of auto repair shop supplies, automotive shop supplies and equipment.  – and

50 Responses
  1. Mark Ericksen :

    Date: October 12, 2008 @ 7:38 pm

    Mr. Bandy, I thoroughly enjoyed your video, Servicing GM Intake Gaskets with Pushrod Tool. I have a 2001 Chevy Malibu that needs the gaskets replaced and I found your video helpful.

    Do you have a video or an article with photos that shows how the engine was torn down to the point where the pushrod tools was used?

    I am a little confused as to how the intake manifold is removed and reinstalled with the rear valve cover in place. I am also not sure what has to be removed on the engine.

    I would appreciate any assistance that you can provide.


  2. dennisb on GM Intake Replacement :

    Date: October 12, 2008 @ 9:01 pm

    Mark, Glad I could help. The article and video you saw is all I have on this particular job. Complete instructions can be obtained from a service repair manual including torque specifications. But basically the following parts need to be removed; Serpentine belt, front spark plug wires, electrical plugs for sensors, throttle cables, throttle bracket, coil bracket to intake/plenum, map sensor, vacuum hoses, upper intake, coolant pipe, fuel rail, front valve cover, top valve cover bolts for rear cover loosened and then the lower intake. This is at the point the specialty tool is used to remove the pushrods. After preparing the surfaces and installing the new gaskets and applying Right Stuff or silicone, the lower intake is slipped into place under the rear valve cover and reassembled. This job pays about six hours book time, but could take much longer if it’s your first one even with the time saved by using the pushrod tool. Good Luck

  3. Griff :

    Date: December 1, 2008 @ 2:20 pm

    Hey I see you have restored a 1967 mustang and it looks quite good. I have one myself but it needs alot of fixing up and we can’t find anyone to do it for us or any sources that will help us out. I live in Scranton, PA if you no anyone thats 45 minutes away from there or something please tell me. The car has been sitting in my grandparents garage for years and I want to get it fixed but need help.

  4. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 1, 2008 @ 2:38 pm

    Thanks. Anyone close to Scranton that can restore this Mustang, can comment here and plug their business and/or website.

  5. Neil :

    Date: May 12, 2009 @ 3:12 pm

    In Aug ’08 my ’01 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/170K miles was diagnosed as having rear end noisy pinion bearings. Your piece on noisy differentials leaves me with 2 questions: (1) what would you estimate the cost of the job, and (2)with moderate whining on acceleration what is the risk of deferring the repair. We greatly appreciate your view on this matter.

  6. dennisb - Auto Repair Blog :

    Date: May 17, 2009 @ 10:23 am


    So others know, the article you’re talking about is on another website that I write for occasionally. The job pays about 7 hours (multiply this times the shop labor rate). The cost of the parts will vary depending on if the parts are original equipment or aftermarket.

    Since August of 2008 ( 5 months ago) the noise was only moderate, if it hasn’t gotten noticeably louder you may be able to postpone the repair. However, metal circulating in the oil will continue to cause wear and could cause damage to the ring and pinion gears, which are much more expensive than just bearings, races and seals. Since you say it does whine on acceleration, I would think the ring and pinion is worn already -but that’s not surprising on a Jeep, especially one with 170,000 miles.

  7. Nathan :

    Date: September 24, 2009 @ 4:29 pm

    I read your post at:
    Jeep Dual AC Problems

    Great post btw.

    I have a broken blend door caused by the corrosion from lingering antifreeze from a broken heater core. The thing just fell apart when I finally got it out.

    Now I’m hunting down a replacement. Were you able to find this aftermarket or through a part shop like O’Reily or did you need to go to Mopar/Jeep to get it? I called Jeep and the guy is telling me I may need to replace the HVAC housing… That seems bogus. The guy at O’Reily is trying to see if he can even get the blend door part.

    Any ideas since you’ve done it a few times?


  8. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 25, 2009 @ 6:53 am


    If your talking about just the blend door part – then that is available at the dealer. The entire case does not need to be changed just the small section that has the doors built in, just like the picture shows – the door assembly.

  9. Nathan :

    Date: September 25, 2009 @ 10:11 am

    Excellent! Thanks! I think this was the confusion I had with our parts guy over the phone. I was thinking of just the door, but he was probably looking at the whole section.

    Thanks for your help.

  10. Tom's Automotive :

    Date: December 23, 2009 @ 6:03 pm

    We are looking to buy these doors
    are there any available after market
    the dealers say not available
    Must buy the hole box 1,700 on back order
    Help please – Tom

  11. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 24, 2009 @ 8:37 am

    Tom, I’ve never had to replace the ENTIRE box. There is a TSB with updated part numbers for the air mix sub-assemblies, click here to view.

    Also there are some aftermarket door assemblies available, sometimes their advertisements run on our tech article through automated ads by Google.

  12. ryan :

    Date: January 10, 2010 @ 2:42 pm

    what could be the cause of hot air coming out of the passanger side but cold air on the driver side on a 2002 dodge ram?

  13. david :

    Date: January 20, 2010 @ 1:08 am

    I have a 2008 250 super duty 4×4 and i have to run 75 air presure in front and 80 in the rear i dont carry any large loads in my truck and it is eating my tires up and it makes the truck ride hard what can i do the dealer say they cant change it i dont live in CA.i also hear that 2010 trucks dont have this trouble please can you help.

  14. dennisb :

    Date: January 20, 2010 @ 10:12 am

    David, unless you have a tire pressure monitoring system – just lower your tire pressure. Make sure the alignment is within specification, since tire wear, especially edgewear is usually caused by the toe setting being off.

    Unfortunately, at any tire pressure your F250 Super Duty is destined to ride like a TRUCK. 🙂

  15. Howard Miller :

    Date: March 12, 2010 @ 12:07 am

    Hi Dennis,

    How come Denlors doesn’t sell Innova diagnostic tools ?


    Howard Miller

  16. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 12, 2010 @ 7:21 am

    Howard, we actually do under the name of Equus Innova, see the link below.

    Equus Innova Scan Tools

  17. Gene :

    Date: April 15, 2010 @ 11:41 am

    Am doing the intake gasket on a 2002 Buick Rendezvous, with your tool, but there is no service manual. The only question I have is when and where to use silicone and/or RTV sealant, on this job. Please elaborate and assume I have no idea where and what to use, because I do not. Thanks.

  18. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 15, 2010 @ 12:09 pm

    Gene, You’re funny and brave. I recommend using a service manual since you admittedly “have no idea where and what to use.” On-line service manuals are available on our Auto Repair Manuals link at the top of the page – pick a subscription that’s right for you.

    Once the intake is off you will see silicone on both ends of the intake. Also apply silicone to the valve cover gaskets where the intake meets the heads and valve covers – look for old silicone. Also see my response to Mark above. And if you haven’t already, see our tech article on Changing GM Intake Gaskets with the Pushrod Tool

  19. Kiffin A. G Sr. :

    Date: May 10, 2010 @ 6:51 am

    I have a 1991 Plymouth, Voyager with a 3.3L motor. I made a mistake and must have vacuum off both of the valves they are both reading zero and the compressor is not turning on. My gauges are color coded so I Mickey moused a vacuum Guage to see how much I was vacuuming my vacuum pump would only go to 26 for 30 minutes out of high and low pressure inputs. Next I am on disability and only have $2.00 lef tout of my check for this month. Do I need to add oil I have 4 cans of r134 left and what I collected. But I don’t think I can re used what I’ve collected. It is kind of a one way deal. Is there a way to bypass the low freon cut off to get the compressor running again and do I need to add oil to the system.

  20. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 10, 2010 @ 8:43 am

    Kiffin, I’m not sure what the reason is for evacuating and recharging at this time, since there is no mention of any parts being replaced or any symptoms listed of the original concern. However, assuming you are just evacuating and recharging the system, below are basic steps.

    1. Measure oil removed when the system has been emptied. The only legal way to empty a system is with an AC recovery unit.

    2. Replace the refrigerant oil that was previously measured. Lack of oil may ultimately cause compressor failure, just like running a car motor without engine oil will cause siezing. (old oil not the best, but better than nothing)

    3. Vacuum the system down with a vacuum pump. The AC manifold gauges should both be OPEN while doing this. The longer the better, but 15-20 minutes ok.

    4. Close both valves – 28-29 inches of vacuum should remain, if there’s no major leaks. Remove vacuum pump. Connect to refrigerant source. Start engine and turn AC on. Start charging the system by opening the Blue valve which is the low side.

    No need to jump the low pressure switch. The compressor will come on when enough pressure is in the system for it to run without it being damaged.

  21. Robert Holland :

    Date: June 6, 2010 @ 3:51 pm


    I would like to offer you a free custom designed license plate for you or your company in exchange for an occasional mention of our web site on your blog. Our web site is . If you have any interest in this exchange please feel free to contact me at any time. Just e-mail your design, logo or just a description of what you want and I will send a layout proof for you to review before proceeding.

    Best Regards,

    Bob Holland
    Fiber Laser Systems, LLC
    216 Brooklands Way
    DeLand, FL 32724
    Cell: XXX-XXX-XXXX (removed for privacy)

  22. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 18, 2010 @ 1:01 pm

    Hello Bob,

    Thanks for the offer. I think that’s a great deal. I have approved your comment on our about us page, but removed your contact information for your privacy. Just in case you didn’t know, links on our blog are “do follow” so they have value when it comes to SEO (search engine optimization). Would you be interested in creating a custom blog to help promote your site? If so write a 300-500 word article with at least one picture. One idea for a blog post would be to show highlights of how you create a custom tag. You could also occasionally comment on our blogs – as long as the comment is relevant and adds value – and NOT just a generic comment, it will be approved. With an approved comment a link is generated for your URL.

    If the offer still stands, I would like a Florida style tag with “DenLors” on it.

    Best Regards,

  23. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 3, 2010 @ 9:29 am

    As you can see, Bob came through for me with a great Custom License plate. It took a while for me to decide on what type of plate I wanted. After I decided, he provided the custom design for my approval, custom made it and got it to me really fast. Many thanks Bob. If anyone is looking for something special, visit Bob’s site. He offers a great selection and wonderful service.
    Den Lors Custom Tag

  24. Cleon :

    Date: December 3, 2010 @ 4:37 pm

    Hey Dennis I have this 2004 Ford Explorer. First the spark plug(#6) broke and that was repaired, but it still has some hesitation during acceleration. Is it possible the injector is defective? Would you be able to help me obtain a wire schematic and a component location for this vehicle

  25. Cleon :

    Date: December 3, 2010 @ 5:09 pm

    Thanks Dennis, you’re the best!!!

  26. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 3, 2010 @ 5:00 pm

    Cleon, I recommend getting a repair manual. You not only will access to schematics and component location today, but will be able to look for help for other problems that come up as well.

  27. oashae :

    Date: October 6, 2014 @ 11:58 am

    Hey,dennis I have a 1998 Chysler Sebring 2.5 v6 and I changed the water pump and timing belt I installed the belt on inaccurate self made timing marks. So now I’m pretty sure this is the problem but it revs right up as soon as it starts and stays that way.

  28. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 6, 2014 @ 12:07 pm

    I would check the factory marks and go from there. Also if there’s any vacuum leaks or if the throttle cable is hung up. Good Luck.

  29. Wifey59 :

    Date: December 2, 2014 @ 2:58 pm

    Hi Dennis, I have a 2002 Chrysler Voyager Mini Van….the heater is not working properly..well basically no heat. We have changed the thermostat and flushed out the heater core several times. Each time it will get warm again, but then about 2 weeks later we lose heat? Do you think that heater core needs to be replaced? My Brother says he can hear the flaps working in the dash so I don’t think that’s an issue. Please help!!

  30. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 2, 2014 @ 3:15 pm

    If flushing temporarily helps then the core is probably getting restricted again. If the coolant is really nasty, even a new heater core could be affected. You may end up replacing the core and havng the cooling system professionally back flushed using chemicals and a machine. Click the following for more tips on car heater blowing cold.

  31. Jeannie :

    Date: May 4, 2015 @ 9:27 pm

    I have a 06 Mitsubishi Eclipse. My timing belt gave out one morning. Upon inspection, I found it did not break but has some missing teeth. I was goin about 40 mph uphill. Is there any chance that although it’s a interference motor that it didn’t damage my valves or Pistons?

  32. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 5, 2015 @ 6:31 am

    Yes, there’s a chance but a stripped timing belt is no better than a broken timing belt. Good Luck.

  33. Cindy :

    Date: June 13, 2015 @ 11:42 pm

    Hi Dennis, I just found this site and so far I really like it… I do have a question though, We have a 2012 200 D with the 2.4 engine and all of a sudden it started making this real weird noise, kind of like a thumping bumping or knocking noise I was told it was my struts, but when the mechanic got into more he found it was a motor mount they call a dog bone. It was replaced the next day (had to get part from Chrysler direct due to car being so new. New being the operative word here, why would a two and half year old car’s motor mount go out?

  34. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 15, 2015 @ 7:32 am

    Cindy, all cars have weak points. Leaks can also cause rubber components to fail prematurely. Petroleum based products like engine oil breaks down rubber that’s in motor mounts. There doesn’t have to be a leak though. The dog bone which is a motor mount that takes a lot of forward and rearward torque stress gets a lot of wear on certain models, yours included. You didn’t mention how many miles the car has, but since you didn’t have the dealer repair it under the factory warranty; the car must be over the (3 year 36,0000 mile) warranty limit although it’s not out by time. Unfortunately, new cars don’t stay new long!

  35. Dave Lomax :

    Date: July 7, 2015 @ 11:37 am

    Wish that I had known about you last week. Bought an 07 F150 on eBay, picked it up in Tampa. Had I known about you, I would have come straight there. Had to replace one coil just to get out of town, 1100 miles of rough running home to Missouri. Runs like crap, suspect cam phaser issue, plugs probably original at 119k. Great article on extracting plugs. Anything on the cam phaser system? Looks like they don’t stay fixed long, and many are opting for a Lockout kit and reprogrammer. Your input would be welcome.

  36. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 8, 2015 @ 8:14 am

    We sell automotive tools and do repair articles, but don’t run a repair shop. Thanks for the comment about bringing the vehicle to us though. The first step is to diagnose the problem. Check codes, do a compression test if needed etc. Not sure how you were pointed in the direction of it being a possible phaser issue. Good Luck.

  37. Sean :

    Date: July 12, 2015 @ 8:07 pm

    Have a 01 Silverado, ac was not working, put on machine at work, evac system,got 1.42 out. ( was low) takes 1.8. Put 1.8 back, low side is about 80 , high goes to 450 before cycle. I think it is too high. I have only regular fan on motor. Is there a relay that tells the fan clutch to engage when pressure gets to high,could that be the problem. Oh, 6.0 v8

  38. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 13, 2015 @ 7:24 am

    Sean, most conventional cooling fans that are mounted on the waterpump are hydraulic.Once the engine/fan clutch heats up the fan will be spinning faster. A few now have an electrical wire going to it and works off the computer and temperature inputs. Some have both conventional and an electric fan. Besides checking the fan clutch and condenser for airflow obstruction, I’d check the cooling system in your truck in case the condenser is getting too much heat transfer from the radiator. Good Luck.

  39. van :

    Date: July 27, 2015 @ 6:03 pm

    Hey Dennis, I have a 90 Toyota pickup 22re it had R12 converted it to 134a , flushed the system, drained the compressor added ester oil changed expansion valve vacuumed it 30 minutes charged 1.5 pounds. running 2000 rpm low side 35 high side 250 the center vent temp 40 degrees. the only problem is at idle it wants to stall the motor then the ac shout off. it works fine driving until i stop at a light and it shuts off again. could it be over charged?

  40. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 28, 2015 @ 7:48 am

    sounds like it’s idling too low. Normally the IAC (Idle Air Control) makes the engine idle higher with the AC on so it doesn’t stall out. The AC seems to be working great going by the numbers you gave. Good Luck.

  41. Veronika :

    Date: August 25, 2015 @ 1:29 am

    I recently got a code P0496 on my 2007 Hyundai Accent 1.6L GLS, and had the purge valve replaced because I thought that was what the problem was, engine lite went away, but now new code came up P0497 (Evap.Emission System Low Purge Flow). Now I don’t know what to do! I don’t want to take to dealership (large dollar signs come to mind) but I do have a friend who works at a shop, but I don’t know if the shop would have to have a special machine to ‘diagnose’ the problem. Can you help me? Any suggestions? Or does this require a special auto shop I should go to?
    Thank you.

  42. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 25, 2015 @ 7:11 am

    Veronika, Low flow usually indicates just what it says, LOW FLOW… not the more common issue of a leak. The smoke machine that I think you are referring to works good for finding leaks but cannot tell you where the flow has been stopped. I would take the lines off and inspect for raw fuel and possibly charcoal restricting the vapor lines. Charcoal can float and leave the canister and get into the lines and valves. Topping off the gas tank too much when filling up can cause these type of problems. A word of caution about blowing through the lines with a blower; it’s tempting to use compressed air to check and/or clean the lines out, but the EVAP system is only designed to hold about 1 psi of pressure, so you could create leaks if you’re not careful. As far as you’re friend at the repair shop… why not ask him if they are able to tackle this diagnosis and repair? Good Luck.

  43. Veronika :

    Date: August 26, 2015 @ 4:50 am

    Thank you so much for ur prompt reply. I found out that my friends auto shop closed down. Since I am on a fixed income, should I be looking for a special auto shop or will any car auto shop do? Please just a few more questions: If someone brought you a car w/this code, what would you do first (when diagnosing the problem)?
    Since P0497 causes are:
    – Faulty EVAP Canister Vent Valve
    – Faulty EVAP Canister Purge valve
    – Plugged EVAP canister condition
    – Faulty EVAP Pressure Sensor
    – EVAP Canister Vent Valve harness is open or shorted
    – EVAP Canister Vent Valve circuit poor electrical connection; would YOU check everyone of these causes til you found the problem? How long should it take to diagnose? If after finding the problem, how much should I be charged? (ball park figure) not counting the ‘parts’ that might have to be replaced? And how long should it take to repair? This is my only car.
    Thank you!

  44. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 26, 2015 @ 7:26 am

    Veronika, yes there are many things that could cause the code. I mentioned already what I would check first. Repair shops have varying capabilities. It’s best to have a regular mechanic before you have issues that you can trust. Since apparently you have no regular mechanic, you’ll most likely need to call around to several repair shops and try to determine how much experience and how comfortable they are in addressing your current issue. Not easy I know. That’s why; for future reference, I’d recommend sticking with one shop/technician that you can depend on when problems occur. It helps when they know the car’s maintenance history first hand. A starting price for a diagnosis like this could easily be an hour at the shop’s rate. The hourly shop rate varies greatly throughout the country, typically ranging from around $50 to $125 roughly. Labor to change actual parts is figured by book time. Some of the parts on the list of possible failures that you found may require removing the gas tank to access. Other parts can be accessed very easily. So without knowing what’s wrong, it’s impossible to guess how long it would take to fix. Also, some parts may be special order. Be sure to tell the shop that you cannot afford the down time if parts need to be ordered so they need to put everything back together and reschedule if parts need to be ordered. Maybe it will be something simple like charcoal blocking lines like I mentioned before. You’ll never know until someone actually checks the car. Good Luck.

  45. Veronika :

    Date: August 26, 2015 @ 7:47 pm

    THANK U!!

  46. Veronika :

    Date: September 8, 2015 @ 2:02 pm

    Hi Dennis: I talked to you awhile back re: my 07 Hyundai Accent 1.6 engine, I have a Code P0497 and now a new other code has popped up Code question is this, I took the car to Merlins and I was told that the labor for fixing the problem(s) would be $600 to $800 dollars! Is Merlins correct?It seems extremely high, am I wrong??

  47. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 8, 2015 @ 2:09 pm

    Labor time is looked up in a book (or computer program) like Mitchell or ALL Data. The labor time is then multiplied times the shop hourly rate. Example – 5.2 book hours times a shop rate of $95 would equal $494.00 See our article on car repair costs explained for more on this. I’d ask them to show you how they came up with the exact labor amount. And yes, it should be exact not a range varying a couple of hundred dollars. Good Luck.

  48. jim brian :

    Date: December 23, 2016 @ 3:22 pm

    i have a 2009 toyota camry , we first had trouble with the right front door not locking when using the remote , recently the drivers side is also not locking , but the two rear doors still do , our local toyota dealer wanted $800 to fix just one door , does this sound like a problem with the key remote ( batteries are stil oe and 7 years old ) we have to both lock and unlock these doors manually.

  49. Nodnarb4 :

    Date: April 20, 2017 @ 2:36 pm

    My name is Brandon Larsen I have an 01 Honda Accord ex v6 and there is a/c leaking in my car it only seems to leak when the air is on I’ve taken to my mechanic to get it repaired but it just leaks again after awhile. I was wondering if there is a more permanent solution or not? I haven’t asked my mechanic what he does to the car but he only charges me $40 to fix it so I’m guessing its something simple.

  50. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 20, 2017 @ 3:17 pm

    If he is just clearing the drain, it’s possible there’s a lot of debris still inside the case. In some cases the evaporator core needs to be removed to clean leaves and debris out so the drain isn’t plugged again so quickly after cleaning drain. Good Luck.

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