Summary: In this auto repair blog, we answer readers questions about brake bleeding, one of which is about frozen bleeder screws. Question: Can you bleed the brakes if ALL the little bleeder valves on each corner are froze? What do I do?  Serious Screwed?  Thanks ya’ll

It’s no surprise, rusty bleeder screws (and other under carriage parts) like you describe usually get rusted from being exposed to salt. In northern states affected by snowy winter conditions come into contact with salt on roads used for de-icing. In ocean front communities like here in Florida a lot of vehicles are exposed to salt when launching boats and jet skis. I’ve worked on my share of rusty brake lines, calipers, wheel cylinders and suspension parts. Working as a mechanic near Tampa in the 80’s and 90’s I could always tell if a car was from up north. I always said if every vehicle I worked on was rusty from salt exposure I would be looking for a new profession!

 

 

To properly bleed the brakes, the bleeder screws will need to be loosened. If the bleeder screws are frozen up (rusted tight or seized) there’s a chance they can be loosened and the calipers or wheel cylinders re-used. First use a penetrating spray like PB Blaster. WD40 is good in many cases but in my experience PB works better for loosening really rusted parts. After several applications and allowing time for the blaster to seep down within the threads, try a six point socket with a ratchet. Twelve point sockets may just round the screw, a wrench due to their angle is more likely to apply uneven force. A ratchet and socket naturally has a 90 degree angle which makes it much easier to apply even force. I prefer to use 1/4″ drive tools because excessive force applied will just cause the screw to break requiring even more work to repair. Lightly tapping on a shallow socket placed on the screw can sometimes vibrate it enough to help loosen it. As a last resort, vise grips or Knipex pliers can be used if the bleeder is too far gone to grip any other way.

 

 

Keep in mind that using a propane or acetylene torch to heat the surrounding area near the bleeder screws can help to loosen them, but can also damage the rubber seals in the caliper or wheel cylinder making it necessary to rebuild or replace them. Back when calipers cost much more years ago, it was worth the extra time to go through this process and then rebuild them afterwards. Depending on the type of vehicle and how much replacement parts are, it still may be worth time and trouble required to rebuild a caliper with a severely rusted bleeder screw. With China supplying such inexpensive parts now (many of them high quality) it’s a good idea to price out the ones that fit the car being worked on before spending a lot of time trying to save the old ones.

Answer: If you question the shop that you’ve taken your vehicle to, get a second opinion. Many shops pay their mechanics spiffs or bonuses for up-selling a loss leader brake jobs. I would ask the mechanic to show me the problem with the parts, it could be legitimate. Calipers can have open dust boots split or torn from age or excessive heat. Rotors can be too thin to machine. If you are uncomfortable with their explanation take your car to another shop for a second opinion. Most shops offer free brake inspections.