Mitsubishi 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 3.8 Water Pump or Timing Belt ReplacementSeptember 27, 2009 9:51 am DIY, How To Auto Repair, Mistubishi, Timing Belt
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Turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation which is to the right when looking at it from the front. Don’t to rotate the crankshaft by turning either of the camshaft bolts. It’s always best to use tightening torque specifications provided by the manufacturer found in a repair manual.
1. Raise and support the vehicle. If doing this at home use a floor jack and jack stands to be safe in case the jack fails or the car shifts. Then the right front wheel is removed and then take off the splash shield (except Montero). If changing the water pump, drain the coolant by using the drain on the radiator or removing one end of the lower radiator hose and catching the coolant.
2. The accessory belts can now be removed along with the pulley tensioner assemblies. Support the engine with a floor jack and a short piece of 2×4″ wood (except Montero). Remove the motor mount (except Montero) then remove timing belt covers. *Note that on the Montero the manual fan clutch will need to be removed. On some models the accessory bracket will need to be removed also. It will be obvious if the bracket will need to be taken off to remove the timing belt once the timing covers are removed.
3. Turn the crankshaft so that the engine is at top dead center, verify that it is at TDC with cam and crank timing marks – (if motor is still timed properly) as an additional precaution more marks can be made with white touch up paint or “white out” prior to timing belt removal.
4. Remove the hydraulic timing belt tensioner and offset idler. If re-using the hydraulic tensioner, it will be placed in a bench vise for compressing. The pin that holds the tensioner in place is called as grenade pin. A small drill bit can be used instead of a grenade pin if not available. If replacing the hydraulic tensioner with a new one, it will come with the grenade pin.
5. If replacing the waterpump – now is the time. Be sure to replace any seals or orings, leaks will be labor intensive to repair if care isn’t taken now to do the job properly. Crankshaft or camshaft seals can be changed now as well. New idlers are a good idea, if reusing the old ones be sure to check the bearings for smooth operation.
Installation is reverse of dis-assembly. Take extra time to insure that the timing marks are lined up correctly when the new belt is installed – nothing is worse than being off a tooth, except for having the timing off and bending valves.
Also see our 2.4 Mitsubishi repair blog on t-belt replacement.
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