Summary: In this auto repair blog we cover the basic timing belt R&R procedure on common Mitsubishi 2.5, 3.0, 3.5 and 3.8 V-6 SOHC engines. These interference engines can sustain valve damage if the timing belt breaks. We’ve got suggestions that can help make the job of replacing the timing belt and/or water pump successful. Listed are different Chrysler and Mitsubishi models that use engines with the same basic design when it comes to water pump and timing belt replacement. Also a diagram for timing belt routing and marks for the 3.5 SOHC.

Replacement intervals can vary, Mitsubishi recommends timing belt replacement on most of the models we cover every 60,000 miles. Consider the fact that if a related component such as the water pump, idler pulleys, hydraulic tensioner, cam seals or crankshaft seal fails it can ruin any timing belt – old or new. Purchasing a timing belt kit that comes with the new idler pulleys should be considered. Also depending on the mileage, it may be a good idea to replace the hydraulic tensioner, oil seals and the water pump for extra insurance. As we stated in the summary, interference engines can be subjected to valve damage if the t-belt breaks or strips, so it’s important to take precautions to allow the new timing belt to last it’s expected service life. 

Basic timing belt instructions for the following vehicles.

• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Dodge Avenger 2.5 2497cc
• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Dodge Stratus 2.5 Liter 2497cc
• 2001, 2002 Dodge Stratus 3.0 2972cc
• 2003, 2004, 2005 Dodge Stratus 3.0 2972cc (Coupe)
• 1995, 1996, 1997Mitsubishi Galant 2.5 2497cc
• 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003Mitsubishi Galant 3.0 2972cc
• 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007Mitsubishi Galant 3.8 230ci
• 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 Mitsubishi Diamante 3.5 3497cc
• 97, 98, 99, 00, 01, 02 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5 SOHC engine
• 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse 3.0L 2972cc
• 2006, 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse 3.8L 3828cc
• 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 Mitsubishi Endeavor 3.8L 3797cc
• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5L 2497cc
• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000Chrysler Sebring 2.5L 2497cc (Coupe and Convertible)
• 2001, 2002Chrysler Sebring 3.0L 2972cc (Coupe)
• 2003, 2004, 2005Chrysler Sebring 3.0L 2972cc

The task of replacing a timing belt on the cars listed above is mostly the same, only slight differences are noted from model to model. Exact R&R instructions for a particular model and year can be obtained online, see our online auto repair manual page for more information. Subscriptions are offered in several different levels from Mitchell DIY (e-auto repair) and AllData - the lowest starting at around $11.99 from Mitchell DIY at the time this article is being written. No matter which is selected, either offer a great solution for accessing car repair info without a wait. Use the subscription for a timing belt project today and to refer back to it later for future projects. More DIY’ers are gaining the confidence to perform many money saving repairs themselves. This confidence comes from on-line help provided by on-line service manuals and the ability to ask a professional tech if they reach a sticking point on our car answers page.

When doing a timing belt or water pump on this type of engine, it’s always advisable to disconnect the battery’s ground cable. Do not turn the crankshaft or camshaft with the timing belt removed. Some terchnicians like to remove the spark plugs to make the engine turn easier but this is not required. Turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation which is to the right when looking at it from the front. Dont to rotate the crankshaft by turning either of the camshaft bolts. It’s always best to use tightening torque specifications provided by the manufacturer found in a repair manual.

1. Raise and support the vehicle. If doing this at home use a floor jack and jack stands to be safe in case the jack fails or the car shifts. Then the right front wheel is removed and then take off the splash shield (except Montero). If changing the water pump, drain the coolant by using the drain on the radiator or removing one end of the lower radiator hose and catching the coolant. 

2. The accessory belts can now be removed along with the pulley tensioner assemblies. Support the engine with a floor jack and a short piece of 2×4″ wood (except Montero). Remove the motor mount (except Montero) then remove timing belt covers. *Note that on the Montero the manual fan clutch will need to be removed. On some models the accessory bracket will need to be removed also. It will be obvious if the bracket will need to be taken off to remove the timing belt once the timing covers are removed.

3. Turn the crankshaft so that the engine is at top dead center, verify that it is at TDC with cam and crank timing marks – (if motor is still timed properly) as an additional precaution more marks can be made with white touch up paint or “white out” prior to timing belt removal.

4. Remove the hydraulic timing belt tensioner and offset idler. If re-using the hydraulic tensioner, it will be placed in a bench vise for compressing. The pin that holds the tensioner in place is called as grenade pin. A small drill bit can be used instead of a grenade pin if not available. If replacing the hydraulic tensioner with a new one, it will come with the grenade pin.

5. If replacing the waterpump – now is the time. Be sure to replace any seals or orings, leaks will be labor intensive to repair if care isn’t taken now to do the job properly. Crankshaft or camshaft seals can be changed now as well. New idlers are a good idea, if reusing the old ones be sure to check the bearings for smooth operation.

Installation is reverse of disassembly. Take extra time to insure that the timing marks are lined up correctly when the new belt is installed – nothing is worse than being off a tooth, except for having the timing off and bending valves.

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Also see our 2.4 Mitsubishi repair blog on t-belt replacement.