Mitsubishi 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 3.8 Water Pump or Timing Belt Replacement

9:51 am DIY, How To Auto Repair, Mistubishi, Timing Belt


©  Summary: In this auto repair blog we cover the basic timing belt R&R procedure on common Mitsubishi 2.5, 3.0, 3.5 and 3.8 V-6 SOHC engines. These interference engines can sustain valve damage if the timing belt breaks. We’ve got suggestions that can help make the job of replacing the timing belt and/or water pump successful. Listed are different Chrysler and Mitsubishi models that use engines with the same basic design when it comes to water pump and timing belt replacement. Also a diagram for timing belt routing and marks for the 3.5 SOHC.

Replacement intervals can vary, Mitsubishi recommends timing belt replacement on most of the models we cover every 60,000 miles. Consider the fact that if a related component such as the water pump, idler pulleys, hydraulic tensioner, cam seals or crankshaft seal fails it can ruin any timing belt – old or new. Purchasing a timing belt kit that comes with the new idler pulleys should be considered. Also depending on the mileage, it may be a good idea to replace the hydraulic tensioner, oil seals and the water pump for extra insurance. As we stated in the summary, interference engines can be subjected to valve damage if the t-belt breaks or strips, so it’s important to take precautions to allow the new timing belt to last it’s expected service life.

Basic timing belt instructions for the following vehicles.

  • 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Dodge Avenger 2.5 2497cc
  • 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Dodge Stratus 2.5 Liter 2497cc
  • 2001, 2002 Dodge Stratus 3.0 2972cc
  • 2003, 2004, 2005 Dodge Stratus 3.0 2972cc (Coupe)
  • 1995, 1996, 1997 Mitsubishi Galant 2.5 2497cc
  • 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 Mitsubishi Galant 3.0 2972cc
  • 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 Mitsubishi Galant 3.8 230ci
  • 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 Mitsubishi Diamante 3.5 3497cc
  • 97, 98, 99, 00, 01, 02 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5 SOHC engine
  • 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse 3.0L 2972cc
  • 2006, 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse 3.8L 3828cc
  • 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 Mitsubishi Endeavor 3.8L 3797cc
  • 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5L 2497cc
  • 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Chrysler Sebring 2.5L 2497cc (Coupe and Convertible)
  • 2001, 2002 Chrysler Sebring 3.0L 2972cc (Coupe)
  • 2003, 2004, 2005 Chrysler Sebring 3.0L 2972cc

The task of replacing a timing belt on the cars listed above is mostly the same, only slight differences are noted from model to model. Exact R&R instructions for a particular model and year can be obtained online. It’s a quick easy way to access diagrams and directions for just a small amount that helps save money in the long run. It’s a great solution for accessing car repair info without a wait. Use the subscription for a timing belt project today and to refer back to it later for future projects. More DIYers are gaining the confidence to perform many money saving repairs themselves. This confidence comes from on-line help provided by researching online.

When doing a timing belt or water pump on this type of engine, it’s always advisable to disconnect the battery’s ground cable. Do not turn the crankshaft or camshaft with the timing belt removed. Some technicians like to remove the spark plugs to make the engine turn easier but this is not required.

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162 Responses
  1. Auto Body Repair :

    Date: October 8, 2009 @ 12:27 pm

    wow!!! thank u very much for all this information. Keep on supplying such useful information. It really is interesting.

  2. Charles :

    Date: December 3, 2009 @ 2:52 pm

    regarding the serpentine idler pulley there is a spacer to “space it away from the other components what does it look like. Yes this is a basket case reassemble.

    thank you in advance,

  3. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 3, 2009 @ 3:49 pm

    Charles, Sorry I don’t recall. You may want to check with a Mitsubishi dealership which may be able to bring up a schematic or parts breakdown. Or ask a dealer tech which may have access to such a diagram – using our car repair questions page linked at the topof the site.

  4. M Simmons :

    Date: December 16, 2009 @ 11:29 am

    I had an Oil leak on the passenger side cam seal. I pulled everything off and replaced seal. To make sure it was in time I realigned everything (cam marks and crank mark. Then I turned by hand to make sure it was lined up. When I put it back together It would not start (sounds like it is off time the starter is dragging. I have taken it back apart and checked timing marks 3 times! The only thing I can think of is the only crank mark is on a back plate behind the sprocket not on the crank sprocket itsself. Any Ideas before I take it back apart?

  5. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 16, 2009 @ 11:42 am

    M Simmons, If you click on the diagram in this repair article, you will see a larger image. The mark is on the crank sprocket and directly behind it there’s a notch to line it up with. After the tensioner is released, double check to see if anything has moved. That’s one reasons I like to make my own marks as well before taking the belt off when possible.

  6. M Simmons :

    Date: December 16, 2009 @ 11:56 am

    I Cleaned the sprocket on the crank and found no mark…. I looked and even had others look with me there was no mark other then the one on the plate behind the sprocket. I will take apart for the 4th time. Thank you for the help.

  7. M Simmons :

    Date: December 16, 2009 @ 12:03 pm

    Just a thought. Can you start the engine when it is down to the timing belt? I know there is a ground that goes to the A/C bracket that will be off, will that stop it from running? And it will pump water every where but I dont want to do this a 5th time!

  8. M Simmons :

    Date: December 16, 2009 @ 2:26 pm

    Ok its back down to timing belt. Found the cam sensor off. Will that cause it to not start? I assume it will.

  9. jeff :

    Date: January 25, 2010 @ 4:24 pm

    2001 galant 2.4l engine, im getting no spark. the car was running fine and just quit. timing belt appears not to be broke. im not to familiar with foreign cars. what should i do? what may cause this problem?

  10. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 27, 2010 @ 2:18 pm

    Thanks for the comments.

  11. jeff :

    Date: January 29, 2010 @ 7:04 pm

    thank for the information

  12. Shawna :

    Date: February 7, 2010 @ 3:50 am

    Just a quick question if anyone can answer it for me?
    Im taking my 2001 Mits. in for a new timing belt that broke while driving at about 20mpr. I know you cannot be sure if the valves were bent at the time my belt broke but it still turns over so im praying they are o.k. Anyway if im reading the information right can my valves be bent if the mechanic does not insure that the timing marks are lined up correctly when the new belt is installed??? I dont want to be ripped off if they are not already bent?
    girl in need of help before i get taken!!!!

  13. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 7, 2010 @ 11:44 am

    Shawna, it’s possible that the mechanic could cause a problem but not likely. Just choose a shop that you feel you can trust. Ask questions. You can ask “how many timing belts has the mechanic changed before?” Is he ASE certified? Ask for the old parts. Ask for an estimate prior to the repair, including best case and worst case scenarios.

  14. david :

    Date: February 8, 2010 @ 10:13 am

    The two holes on the t belt tensioner pully, illustrated in above diagram, should they be @ the 4-5 o’clock position as shown?

  15. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 8, 2010 @ 10:34 am

    That would be about right. I try to put it back in the same position it was previously. Then double check the tension after releasing the hydraulic tensioner. For complete directions a subscription to an on-line repair manual can be purchased for a small fee using the link at the top of the page that says Auto Repair Manuals.

  16. Benjamin trujillo :

    Date: February 14, 2010 @ 1:47 am

    Thanks for the information , never replaced a timing belt on a Mitsubishi and was wondering if it had two belts instead of one it is a 3.0 6 cylinder . just the pictures themselves answer my question I guess just a 2.4 has them or another motor

  17. Don :

    Date: March 15, 2010 @ 10:58 pm

    Have 96 Sebring with a 2.5. I’m replacing the Water Pump, do I need to remove the Power Steering Bracket? Also I have removed all the bolts for the motor mount on the engine and can’t seem to get it off. Any suggestions?

  18. sid :

    Date: May 9, 2010 @ 2:25 pm

    trying to replace timing belt on my 97 dodge avenger 2.5 that broke I just can not seem to get the marks rigt for the cam shafts. I have changed belts before but not on a dual cam shafts so that is the issue I’m haveingcananyone help with where the timing marks should be. thank you


  19. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 9, 2010 @ 2:57 pm

    Sid, I’m assuming you have clicked on the image above to see the timing marks illustration.

    You may want to go to the auto repair manual page linked at the top of the page. You can get an online subscription for your car to get the specific timing belt diagram for your car.

    Another option is to go to the car questions page (at the top of the page also) to ask a technician for help and guidance.

  20. mike garofalo :

    Date: May 28, 2010 @ 7:56 am

    Have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring Convert 2.5L V6 in need of a timing belt replacement. Have had pass side engine mount, power steering reservoir and all but one timing cover removed (upper left) because of this bracket in front of cover. Could not get at power steering reservoir bracket bolts to remove at rear of engine against firewall, no clearance. What do you suggest to access these fasteners for bracket removal?

  21. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 28, 2010 @ 8:23 am

    Mike, sometimes you can let the motor drop down and work from underneath. I know that sounds over-simplified when you are working without a vehicle lift. If this was being done in a repair shop, the refrigerant could be taken out and the ac lines disconnected to allow for more room from the top. Usually some work is done from the top and some from the bottom. You may also want to ask a Chrysler tech for tips by using our car questions page linked at the top of the page.

  22. Kevin :

    Date: July 26, 2010 @ 10:54 pm

    Replaced timing belt on 05 Montero (3.8) reassembled, runs great but now oil is leaking from front cover. I replaced all the seals and even put RTV on the auto-tensioner bolts since oil was running out from one of the holes. Any advice at all? I’ve torn this thing down 2 times already and cannot figure anything else out. thanks alot in advance

  23. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 27, 2010 @ 6:29 am

    Kevin, you didn’t mention if you had this leak prior to intially changing the timing belt (if not, could the timing cover be cracked from prying?). Regardless, you may need to use UV dye to pinpoint the source of the leak to make sure its coming from the bolt area – it could be trailing from somewhere else. It’s easy to install a seal wrong, by allowing the inner part of the seal to curl (when installing) and the spring to come out of place.

    Another tip is to use baby powder to help determine where the oil leak is originating from.

    Related Tech Article – Baby Power and UV Dye to Find Leaks

  24. Kevin :

    Date: July 29, 2010 @ 11:20 pm

    Dennis, I’m now on seal #4, last one leaked due to inner lip being pinched. Installed another one and tapped it all the way into the groove, ran but leaked slowly again. pulled that one out, put another one in and used a blower to pressurize the crankcase, turns out there is a gouge in the outer face of the front cover that I could feel air and see oil bubbling coming from. Pulled the seal again and it saw that the gouge runs from the inside of the cover at the bearing journal all the way to the outside. gonna try some epoxy to fill the gouge, sand it smooth and then apply some rtv to the outer seal surface just to be safe. Dealer told me not to install the seal all the way in, just flush with the cover, your suggestion?

  25. dennisb - Car Tool Sales :

    Date: July 30, 2010 @ 9:02 am

    Kevin, Usually a moderate amount of RTV (or my favorite “Right Stuff”) on the OUTER part of the seal is good insurance in case there are any imperfections (be sure not to get excess in the engine). And use brake cleaner to clean old oil off prior to installing. Clean tarnish off crank or cam shaft with brake clean also. Put some clean oil or sil-glyde on seal where contacts cam or crank.

    I would not recommend forcing shop air in the crank case to check for potential leaks… you may just create some! Auto repair shops use smoke at about 1 PSI with an evaporative smoke machine. This reveals leaks without the possibilty of creating one. “Flush mounted” is usaully where seals sit at. It’s best to note what depth the seal is at prior to removal.

  26. Tony :

    Date: August 20, 2010 @ 9:22 pm

    Just got a tune up, timing belt (all belts) water pump, valve cover gaskets, pulleys, tensioner. When i picked it up the car started shaking the engine light came on and it sounds like knocking sound coming out of the engine like valve slapping. Also feels as if it is going to stall. The guys says it’s a cylinder 1 misfire. Never had a problem with misfires till i picked it up yeserday. Any ideas? Crankshaft sensor? It feels like it dropped a cylinder. I need help!! Forgot to mention it is a 3.0 liter mitsubishi engine but the car is a chrysler sebring lxi. The guy that was doing routine maintenance is having trouble figuring it out and I am getting impatient. The car was running perfectly fine, never a problem with the car until now. I even change the oil every 2-3000 miles with one quart Mobile-1. I thought I was doing a good thing doing preventetive maintenance. Also he is regarded as a good technician.

  27. MayorAdamWest :

    Date: August 25, 2010 @ 9:45 pm

    Just had my alternator, timing belt, and water pump + all seals replaced today on my 2.5 V6…

    I’m hoping to God it isn’t going to cost me 900 bucks or have a horror story like Tony above! I bought a timing belt/water pump kit online for 100 bucks. Mechanic says he worked on it ALL day so he’s probably gonna charge me massive labor cost.

    Will come back tomorrow with some news.

  28. mike :

    Date: August 31, 2010 @ 6:49 pm

    Hi, I’m a novice when it comes to auto mechanics. I’m trying to change the alternator on my ’04 Galant and I have no clue how to release the tension on the belt. Can you help?

  29. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 31, 2010 @ 8:55 pm

    Mike, you may want to ask your question on our car questions page linked at the top. They can offer personal attention and guidance. Good Luck.

  30. tony :

    Date: August 31, 2010 @ 9:23 pm

    Everything seems fine except that the radiator fan is running on high when it kicks in like a tornado. Is it the relay in the distribution box in the engine bay (the low)? I should have done the work myself but I have no lift or time.

  31. GSpeed :

    Date: October 18, 2010 @ 7:07 am

    I’ve the same issue as you. Had timing belt, pulleys, plugs,wires,cap & rotor changed (02 Galant 3.0 V6, 73,000 miles, and when car was picked up from dealership, CHECK ENGINE light was on, random misfire occuring rough, and some hesitation on acceleration. Have been back to dealership 3 times and has not been corrrected. Car was fine prior. What was your outcome? Was issue resolved (how)?

  32. andy :

    Date: November 2, 2010 @ 12:59 pm

    if you have a distributer its real easy if you remove the cap and turn the key and the roter dosnt move your belt is broke

  33. andy :

    Date: November 2, 2010 @ 1:04 pm

    mike there should be a bolt on the end of your tensinor pully u can put a breaker bar or racket and socket on it and it makes it easy to work with

  34. Paul :

    Date: November 28, 2010 @ 8:21 pm

    on 95 3.0 6 cyl when timing marks are aligned should the rotor be on the #1 plug? Just replaced timing belt that had broke and the water pump.

  35. dennisb - Car Tool Sales :

    Date: November 29, 2010 @ 7:48 am

    Paul, probably just before #1 on the rotation. You can check TDC by pulling the #1 spark plug, make sure piston is at the highest point.

    I recommend checking a service manual for timing marks for your specific application. Good Luck

  36. MarkB :

    Date: January 4, 2011 @ 3:49 pm

    Replaced my 2001 Montero T-belt twice now. When I took it apart the second time I noticed that the belt was loose! That might explain the borderline overheating if the water-pump wasn’t properly driven. I suspect that it is loose again because I still have problem. I am wondering if my tensioner pully cam has rotated. Does it matter if it is rotated CW or C-CW during pre-adjust? Any suggestions on adjusting?

  37. Justin B :

    Date: January 9, 2011 @ 11:13 am

    I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Montero 3.8lit.
    Just replaced the timing belt, after tighting per recommended specs bank II is off a half a tooth from timing mark. (Not a full tooth) Belt is not OEM. Bank I and crank are exactly on there respective marks. The only thing I can think of is a faulty belt. Any suggestions?
    Thanks Justin

  38. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 9, 2011 @ 11:36 am

    That is a possibility. Usually it’s best to count the cogs if possible (if the old belt is intact enough) to verify the belt is correct.

  39. Justin B :

    Date: January 9, 2011 @ 1:39 pm

    Thanks for the feedback, I will check

  40. Ricky H. :

    Date: January 9, 2011 @ 10:37 pm

    I have a 96 sebring 2.5 V-6. Worse piece of *@#@ I ever bought. I am getting no fire or spark. Code shows cam or ecm. I bought new distributor but no luck. I know it is not fuel related. I don’t know if it is at tdc. The rotor was pointing to one. Is this the reason my car won’t start?

  41. Mark :

    Date: February 28, 2011 @ 7:43 pm

    I just replaced the timing belt, water pump, idlers and tensioner on a 2000 Eclipse GT. If I line up the crank’s timing marks, the cam’s marks are half a tooth off. Meaning with the crank perfctly aligned, the marks on the cam sprockets are at the peak of a tooth and the mark on the engine side is in the next valley. If I align the cam sprockets perfectly, the crank alignment is off in the same fashion – just about half a tooth. Is this too far off? Ideas on how to correct? Its been spun around a couple times, belt tension is right, etc. Please help! Thanks

  42. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 28, 2011 @ 8:03 pm

    Mark, a 1/2 tooth off could mean the wrong belt or just the spring tension of one of the cams causing the belt, to appear a little off. When I’m doing a timing belt and I make sure the belt is correct (the right number of cogs, spacing and shape of teeth). If I’m doing a maintenance belt I make my own marks in addition to using the factory marks. If you would like more input, you could ask a dealer tech using the box below. Good Luck

  43. Mark :

    Date: February 28, 2011 @ 8:33 pm

    Thanks for the feedback. – pretty certain its the right belt – same number of teeth – Gates OEM. Not sure about a cam pulling one way or the other as both cams hit the marks at the same time. Thanks again.

  44. Janelle :

    Date: September 19, 2011 @ 2:05 am

    How many teeth should be between each mark? I counted 59 from one sprocket to the other then 128 from the right hand sprocket back around to the left hand sprocket and I just realized I never marked one on the belt for the crank pully.

  45. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 19, 2011 @ 6:42 am

    Janelle, that’s an interesting way of double checking yourself. I’ve always just made additional marks on the pulleys and surrounding components and of course used the manufacturer’s marks. Counting the cogs on the timing belt and making sure they have the same number as the original is a good idea when possible (if the old belt is not destroyed). If you get the wrong belt there could be a different number of cogs and it would be impossible to ever line everything up properly. Good Luck.

  46. brandon :

    Date: September 20, 2011 @ 12:09 am

    I replaced the front oil seal on my 94 Mitsubishi Diamante in the process the timing belt was replaced also the marks line up perfectly but when I tried to crank the car it would turn over but not start I pressed the gas pedal while turning the key the car started but cut off when I released the gas pedal any advice?

  47. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 20, 2011 @ 6:47 am

    Brandon, recheck all work performed. I would double check ALL sensors that may have been left unplugged. Also check any routing of wires that could have gotten pinched or rubbed through during the job. Sometimes when the battery is disconnected for an extended period of time, the computer will not store the fuel strategy and may need to re-learn. If it is a simple relearn issue, you should be able to keep the car running by feathering the gas pedal until it starts to be capable of idling on it’s own. If the car was a 1996 or above, you would have the benefit of OBD II. On Board Diagnostics II is much better at directing you to a problem area since it does “self” testing of systems. If all else fails, it may be necessary to remove the timing belt covers and make sure everything lines up still. It’s frustrating to have to go back and double check the timing marks, but if everything else checks out that could be what is necessary. I’ve had a belt tensioner loosen before causing a similar issue. Good Luck.

  48. grey_jo :

    Date: September 23, 2011 @ 6:56 pm

    I have a 2000 Chrysler mini van with the 3.0 engine. Just did the timing belt again at 200,000 miles. It had been going downhill in performance before the change and got to the point where it wouldn’t idle anymore. I changed the belt and made sure everything was lined up right. I did find that the rear cam was a tooth off when I tore it down and hoped this was the bad running problem.

    Well, it isn’t any better afterward. Still wont idle and I then took it to a local garage and they said it is a timing kind of problem but didn’t know what. They found it to be running very rich and putting gas into the oil. They told me they could get the o2 sensor to work and lean out the system by creating a vacuum leak…
    They suggested I tear it down and check the timing belt alignment again…which I did today and it is dead on. They also suggested checking to see if the keyway on the crank gear and cam sprockets might be worn to the point where the timing is being compromised. I checked the crank sprocket and see no wear at all on the key way.

    Before I take off the cam sprockets, what else might be causing this?
    There are no codes ever. The mechanic did tell me that he hears a clunk when he is under the hood and goes from low rpm to high rpm rapidly that sounds to him like it is coming from the timing belt end of the motor…thus his idea that there is wear on a keyway and that he part that is worn is going from the right position to the worn/bad position whenever the engine is turning…I think/hope you know what I mean.

    I cannot find anything online to tell me where to go next and I don’t know if this key-way idea is something others have run into or not.

    The van is down on power ESPECIALLY at low speed, ie anything under 30 mph. It does occasionally backfire out the exhaust…I presume from being so rich.


  49. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 25, 2011 @ 5:30 pm

    grey_jo, usually back firing is an indication of timing and since the engine has 200,000 miles on it my guess is that it is simply worn. Worn lobes on the cam may be causing the valves not to open fully. Also fuel ending up in the oil can also an indication of a worn engine. Unburned fuel on the top of the pistons washing down past the rings. A compression test may help in determining the integrity of the engine, but I wouldn’t expect much more out of a 200,000 mile Chrysler 3.0. Good Luck.

  50. grey_jo :

    Date: October 10, 2011 @ 8:58 pm

    I appreciate your reply.

    I went ahead and swapped out the motor…thats when the problem stared me in the face. It was a timing issue but not on the timing belt end. The inside part of the flex plate had rotated almost a full 1/8th turn inside the outer part. There is a crack and a small missing piece on the rim of the outer part where the inner piece sits. The edge of the inner piece looks “smeared” from the rotation it underwent inside the outer piece. I am guessing it was therefore between 25 and 45 degrees off…the crank position sensor would read that much different than the actual crank position…and the longer it was run, the more it turned inside the outer piece so the worse it got.

    The new motor still has the “I don’t want to idle” problem but it has great response and power over the entire rpm range now…I will have it in the shop soon to look at the sensors and such…not likely that 2 motors, one with significantly less miles…half or so…would have the same issue.

    I just wanted to post this as someone else may experience such a problem and, if so, this might help them know what the cause is.

    WHY is it a 2 piece flex plate?? If it had been one piece, like everything else I have ever worked on, this wouldn’t have been such a headache.

  51. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 11, 2011 @ 8:21 am

    Thanks for letting us know about the flex plate. Since the CKP (Crank Position Sensor) take takes it’s reading off of that, it makes sense that the timing would be miscalculated. As far as the idle problem, I would try cleaning the throttle body and IAC (Idle Air Control) to see if this helps. Good Luck.

  52. grey_jo :

    Date: October 16, 2011 @ 9:08 pm

    Turned out to be the EGR control module…the vacuum diaphragm that connects to the EGR valve had a hole and leaked… so idle is fixed!

    When I changed the motor, I had swapped all the sensors that came on it to all the ones that were on my old motor… some I had to as the connectors didn’t work with my harness, so I just did them all… fortunately the new one came with the EGR control module so I just swapped my bad one for the one that came on the other motor… good to go!!

  53. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 17, 2011 @ 7:07 am

    Thanks for letting us know about the final outcome. Great job!

  54. luis eduardo dias :

    Date: December 12, 2011 @ 7:28 am

    Good morning everyone, someone could tell me what is the firing order and position of the cables pajeiro 3.5 24 valve?

  55. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 12, 2011 @ 8:40 am

    Here’s the firing order.

    3.5 Mitsubishi firing order.

  56. John :

    Date: January 9, 2012 @ 5:32 am

    I live in Myanmar. I wanna buy a Timing Belt for Mitsubishi Pajero Mini 1998. I can’t find it in Myanmar! Help me! Tell me International Size for it! I’m looking forward you.

  57. Schalk :

    Date: January 20, 2012 @ 3:30 am

    I replaced the timingbelt on the colt 3L V6 all the mark a correct but still it will not start any help please

    thank you

  58. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 20, 2012 @ 6:28 am

    Schalk, maintenance belt? Broken while driving? Codes, compression, spark, fuel etc… Good Luck

  59. sinath b :

    Date: January 24, 2012 @ 10:51 pm

    2002 Mitsubishi Montero ltd 4wd 150,000 no check engine and start right up. Start disassembling the timing belt and install the new one. car is hard to start and check engine on for camshaft and crankshaft sensor i think i bend the sensing blade and misalignment it

  60. sinath b :

    Date: January 24, 2012 @ 11:36 pm

    been trying to align the sensing blade by rotate it 180 degree still doing the same think and also try to straighten the sensing blade. car very very hard to start but when it start the check engine come on for camshaft and crankshaft sensor. now car don t start at all timing belt are align but the sensing blade have an alignment mark on it but didn’t match the crankshaft align mark. Check Alldata and ask around there a picture showing the the sensing blade align with the crankshaft mark

  61. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 25, 2012 @ 6:24 am

    Sinath, in most cases when there is a cam/crank sensor code immediately after replacing a timing belt for maintenance (no problems before) the timing is off a tooth. The car may run but the code will set. “Hard to Start” is also an indication of the timing being off as well. Good Luck.

  62. sinath b :

    Date: January 25, 2012 @ 8:40 am

    how about the crankshaft sensing blade that spin that i blend but the timing belt is align all mark are the same as the old one plus i counted and mark all them point if my problem is solve i ‘ll be buying some of the tool nothing is free that what learn

  63. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 25, 2012 @ 8:49 am

    Sinath, anything is possible. You may have a better idea of what you have done since you are the one that’s working on the vehicle. (This is why I always make my own white marks in several places on the belt, cam and crank pulleys just to be 100^% sure that the timing belt is lined up properly. Of course if it’s a broken belt when it comes in, you can’t do this.)
    Good Luck.

  64. Desiree :

    Date: January 25, 2012 @ 8:36 pm

    I have a 2003 montero that we are having trouble with. The piston keeps hitting the #6 spark plug. Why would this keep happening??? This started the same time it started making a loud ticking noise. We were told it was the lifters, had them replaced, didnt fix. Need help!!!

  65. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 26, 2012 @ 7:34 am

    Desiree, Mitsubishi’s do have a common problem with faulty lifters, so it’s not surprising that you were told that was the cause. If there is a weak lifter, most of the time the ticking will subside when the idle or RPM’s (Revolutions Per Minute) are raised. The problem that you have sounds much more serious due to the fact that the spark plug is being struck. Assuming the correct spark plug is installed, the cause could only be something LOOSE in the cylinder. Possible “loose pieces” could be a broken valve, valve seat or guide. Although mechanical parts can break at anytime; Typically What can happens is the lifter can fail first, then if continued to be driven the valve spring can break and then the valve, seat and guide are likely next to go next. The cylinder walls can be scored and ultimately damage piston rings, all of this can cause loss of compression, smoking out the tail pipe etc. One way to inspect inside the cylinder without removing the head is with an inspection borescope. This can help to determine if the engine is worth tearing down and repairing or if it’s time to consider options for a new, remanufactured, or used engine. Click the image below to see details on one of our fiber=optic borescopes used for inspection on cylinders through the spark plug hole.

  66. zach :

    Date: February 26, 2012 @ 1:42 pm

    I just did the timing belt on my 3.8L Eclipse, when we had the timing belt off, one of the cams sprung out of time, so we rotated it clockwise back into time, the front cam and crankshaft were still on the timing mark, could this have possibly bent a valve on the rear cam that sprang off the timing mark?

  67. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 26, 2012 @ 2:46 pm

    Zach, no. That wouldn’t be a hard enough action to bend any valves. Good luck.

  68. Bob :

    Date: March 3, 2012 @ 12:18 am

    Just did a new timing belt on my Dodge R/T, 2003, 3.0 L., although the marks are lined up, the engine has no guts. It idles fine and no codes. ANY IDEAS?

  69. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 3, 2012 @ 7:54 am

    Bob, if this was a “maintenance belt” meaning it was changed for maint, and NOT because the timing belt was broken; Then, I would look at the marks again. Yes, normally there would be a misfire code set but sometimes it may take driving (drive cycles) to allow time for it to go past “pending” to a hard code. If the reason is because the timing belt was broken, I would do a compression test to see if the compression is where it should be – a slightly bent valve could cause some compression loss. It’s important to remember that if the belt is off a tooth that could also affect compression. Good Luck.

  70. dan zeller :

    Date: March 5, 2012 @ 6:39 pm

    My 03 eclipse 3.0 5 speed started making a rattling noise when it was cold and now it rattles all the time and getting worse. The sound seems to be coming from the timing belt area so I took off the forward cover to the timing belt and expected to see it shredded but it was not. could it be the water pump?

  71. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 5, 2012 @ 6:54 pm

    Dan, I would get an opinion from a technician that can listen to the noise in person. Lifters are a common problem with Mitsubishi’s and they typically make noise when cold at first when they first start to cause a problem. If you are convinced the sound is coming from the front timing cover area, a tear down and inspection may be in order. Once the timing belts are removed all the pulleys and water pump bearings can be felt for roughness. Good Luck.

  72. miguel :

    Date: March 11, 2012 @ 12:38 pm

    I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT v6 I took the timing covers off the check for a noise coming from the pump and now vehicle doesnt start I replaced the crank sensor and still nothing, it cranks strong.

  73. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 11, 2012 @ 5:06 pm

    Miguel, if the vehicle was running before you worked on it, I would recommend backtracking all of your steps. I had a similar problem when I worked on am Eclipse, years ago and the problem was the tensioner loosening soon after the car was re-started. If the belt jumps a tooth or two, it won’t start. It is true however, if the engine sounds like it has good compression when it cranks over (cranks strong), the timing may not be off. But, sometimes it’s hard to tell just by listening. So, I would re-check timing alignment and retrace your steps. Good Luck.

  74. toolbox01 R&R raceing :

    Date: April 5, 2012 @ 9:57 am

    I have a 2000 Chrysler with an Mitsubishi 2.5 an it was running good an then shout down tried to restarted the car and sounded like the timing belt let go. Tore it down and the belt was in one piece all teeth are there an the cams spin when turned over by hand.

  75. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 5, 2012 @ 11:01 am

    Sounds like just the belt failed. I would check water pump and pulleys too. Good Luck.

  76. ceasar :

    Date: May 12, 2012 @ 11:55 am

    I have a 2001 diamante ,the plastic covers for crank case broke into pieces when changing the water pump. should I buy new ones cause they are very pricey or can I leave them off

  77. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 12, 2012 @ 4:58 pm


    No covers means more dirt can get to the belt and oil seals. Maybe you can find them at a salvage yard? Good Luck.

  78. Scott :

    Date: May 13, 2012 @ 7:13 pm

    I just changed the timing belt on a 2.5 v6 dohc. Now it’s ticking. everything looks like it’s right. any ideas?

  79. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 13, 2012 @ 8:44 pm

    Scott, ticking in the area of the timing belt, I would recheck my work. If it’s ticking on top end of engine, I would suspect lifters or valve adjustment. Good Luck

  80. Larry Grochowsky :

    Date: June 19, 2012 @ 9:43 pm

    97 grand voyager SE, 3.0L mitshubishi, water pump failure, chewed up the belt and raveled it pretty good. need to set crank and cams to TDC, everything I read says to do this with the belt still on the sprockets. I don’t have that luxery, how do I set with the belt already peeled off? did the crank keep turning when this happened and if so it is way off compared with the OH cams.

  81. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 20, 2012 @ 7:21 am

    Larry, The crank most likely kept turning some. The faster the RPM’s the more it could have spun. I would gain access to an on-line repair manual like ALL-Data (see our manual page). There will be better instructions and diagrams for your specific model. Basically, find top dead center which means the #1 cylinder piston needs to be ALL the way up. I would take the #1 spark plug out and turn the crank while holding a long screwdriver (or similar tool) in the hole. Stop turning the crank when the piston/screwdriver is at the highest point. You will also see the line-up mark on the crank sprocket and housing behind it. The cams will have marks also which are outlined in the repair manual better than I can describe here. Good Luck.

  82. josh :

    Date: August 26, 2012 @ 10:44 am

    is there anything that goes over the cam seals to hold them in place

  83. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 26, 2012 @ 2:58 pm

    Josh, No the seals are tapped or pushed into place- – no retainers needed.

  84. Jason :

    Date: March 13, 2013 @ 6:08 pm

    I changed my timing belt. Now the valves are clacking. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

  85. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 14, 2013 @ 7:21 am

    Jason, if the timing is not lined up properly the valves may interfere with the pistons causing bent or broken valves.

  86. Tim :

    Date: March 29, 2013 @ 12:56 pm

    Hello all. This is my first time here. I have been working on my wifes 03 Eclipse. It has the 3.0L SOHC engine. She was driving to work and the hydraulic tensioner went out on her car causing the timing belt to come loose. I pulled everything down and replaced the tensioner, set the timing marks put it all back together and it spins but won’t start. I thought I might have the timing off 180 degrees, so I checked it as follows: First, without any knowledge or info, I pulled #2 plug and put a 1/4″ drive extension in the chamber. I rotated the engine until it reached it’s TDC and made a mark. Then I brought it to BDC (Bottom Dead Center) and made a mark. I figured that if #2 was at BDC, then #1 should be at TDC. It was off about 60 degrees according to my degree wheel. I decided to check further and found something in a friends Haynes manual about checking it with the #6 cyl., not having a compression gauge, I again used the extension. It got the same reading as for being 60 degrees off on the left cam mark, and when rotated to the TDC mark on the crank, the ams lined up. I’m wondering if I’m doing something wrong with the electrical and vacuum lines on the top of the engine. any help and or diagrams would be much appreciated as time is getting short and I have t have surgery soon to repair an abdominal Aortic Anomaly.

  87. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 29, 2013 @ 3:29 pm

    Tim, I would check for TDC (Top Dead Center) with cylinder number one all the way up. Using AllData linked from our repair manual page may be more informative than a Haynes manual. Good Luck.

  88. Tim :

    Date: March 29, 2013 @ 3:43 pm

    Well, I checked it again and when I first try to start it it sounds like a small backfire, so I’m going to assume that I’m 180 degrees out and reset the crank after I get the cams aligned. I hope it works as I don’t have tme to pull the intake and check #1.

  89. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 29, 2013 @ 3:56 pm

    Tim, there are marks on the crank sprocket and the oil pump housing behind it. See the diagram on the bottom of the second page of this blog.

  90. Tim :

    Date: March 29, 2013 @ 4:53 pm

    Yes, I know where the marks are and what they look like. I did not mean to sound like a novice, just trying to be as detailed as possible. The procedure in the Haynes manual was so that you didn’t have to pull the intake to do the #1 cyl. I would think that when #2 is at BDC, #1 should be at TDC. What the anual was saying was that if #6 was at TDC, the left or rear cam would be 60 degrees before it’s alignment mark, then you would rotate the engine until the cam was on the mark and #1 cyl shoul now be at TDC.

  91. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 29, 2013 @ 5:24 pm

    Tim, sounds like you are on the right track if the marks on the crank sprocket and housing behind it are lined up as the diagram shows on the second page of the blog. Hopefully the valves aren’t bent. Good Luck.

  92. Tim :

    Date: March 30, 2013 @ 12:34 am

    Ok, I pulled the intake and made sure I am at TDC. Still spins, gets spark, does not start. Put my OBD2 scanner on it and got P0660 code.

  93. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 30, 2013 @ 9:09 am

    Tim, the trouble code P0660 is means that Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit is open. Check the pigtail for good connection on the sensor on the intake. This is not the reason it just spins. Either the cam timing is off or it’s possible that since this is not just a maintenance belt and it skipped timing while it was being driven that the valves could be bent. See our article on checking for bent valves for more information.

  94. Tim :

    Date: March 30, 2013 @ 11:39 am

    As much as it kills me, I cannot work on the car anymore right now due to my medical condition. I think I over did it and I’m not feeling so good and I think I have no choice but to get it to a mechanic. I appreciate all the help but right now the car’s not the most important thing.

  95. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 30, 2013 @ 4:48 pm

    Tim, take care of yourself.

  96. tamar :

    Date: April 18, 2013 @ 11:16 pm

    05 Mitsubishi endeavor water pump went out had it replaced car wouldnt start po355 code came up had a new timing belt put on all marks head on and new crank shaft sensor put on new battery car still will not start turns over tries to catch but wont please help single mom already spent close to 1000 dollars please any idea what to do next

  97. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 19, 2013 @ 6:28 am

    Tamar, The code P0355 is for an open circuit for the CKP (Crankshaft Position Sensor). Since you had it replaced, there may be a wire or connector damaged that goes to it. Good Luck.

  98. tamar :

    Date: April 19, 2013 @ 7:57 am

    The code is gone now it just won’t start no code is pulling up at all it turns over b but won’t catch it tries to every once in awhile but just can’t get it done

  99. tamar :

    Date: April 19, 2013 @ 8:01 am

    Car ran just fine until water pump went out all the other issues came up afterwards

  100. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 19, 2013 @ 8:15 am

    Tamar, since the code indicated an open circuit I would look at those wires and connections for it very closely. I would also check the timing marks again very closely. Since the engine was running prior to removal of the water pump and timing belt it stands to reason that something that was touched or worked on is not properly installed. Basically if I were the tech working on it I would recheck everything that I moved to make sure everything is back in place properly. Good Luck

  101. tamar :

    Date: April 19, 2013 @ 8:57 am

    Thank you for ur help

  102. Joe :

    Date: June 24, 2013 @ 2:32 pm

    My 2003 Galant 2.4L engine was making a “clicking” noise around the timing belt cover, so the next morning as I prepared to move the car into the garage, I started up the engine it ran for approx 10 seconds and shut, off. I cranked a few times and still didn’t start. We pushed it into the garage, removed the time belt cover and “bumped” the engine. The belt was not moving. After removing the main cover I could see allot of teeth (on the belt) missing where the belt engaged the main crank sprocket and a few others missing here and there. Looks like the original belt, car has 180K miles. My question is, do you think I damaged, bent the valves? I didn’t run it at all after it spun, just bumped the engine a few times. I did turn the crank with a socket to remove both belts, seemed to be ok? I think the “clicking” noise was the various missing teeth on the belt making contact with the sprocket as it turned while running before it spun out. Thanks

  103. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 24, 2013 @ 3:14 pm

    Joe, the most common way to check to see if the valves were bent is to install a belt and see if it starts and if it runs ok. One thing that’s on your side is that there’s less of a chance to bend the valves at lower RPM’s. See the following article for more information about Checking for Bent Valves.

  104. vintagedog :

    Date: August 13, 2013 @ 4:23 pm

    Can anyone tell me if a 1999 Mitsubishi Diamante 3.5 will fit in a 1999 Montero(also a 3.5)? Thanks

  105. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 13, 2013 @ 9:00 pm

    Salvage yards may be able to answer, But of you transfer EVERYTHING you should be fine. Good Luck.

  106. vintagedog :

    Date: August 13, 2013 @ 10:08 pm

    Thanks Dennis,
    Transferring everything is no fear to me, as I’ve done that on a different vehicle before, and it’s much cheaper than a rebuild.

  107. Chris :

    Date: January 11, 2014 @ 11:27 pm

    I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse 3.0 v6 5 speed. The car was starting to get to where it wanted to get hot and when it was starting to get to where it was overheating I always stopped and cut it off. it started to overheat for almost a month and I couldn’t figure out what was going on. I always cut the heater on and it would level out or I stopped it I had to. After a Month I finally decided to change the water pump water was coming out of the weep hole. I parked it and replaced the water pump but while I was doing it, taking the harmonic balancer off the crankshaft turned a half a revolution backwards while the timing belt was off. I replaced the water pump and got a new belt but when it came to piecing it back together I couldn’t finish it due to weather. I took it to a shop after 5-6 months of sitting there and had the car put back together. They couldn’t get the car to start and told me that the spark plugs had to be changed. Well after I got new plugs and wires and a new distributer cap it still wont start. the marks are right and the cam sensor is getting spark, so is the first spark plug. it tries to turn over but its not getting any fire. I thought it might be bad gas or something but I am just not sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  108. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 12, 2014 @ 9:02 am

    Timing would be my first thought, but you are sure the shop was able to time it properly after you took it apart. If you think it may have bad gas, which could make sense because the car sat for so long, I would take a fuel sample to see what it’s like. Compare it to fresh gas. Also a little starting fluid is a good test, if it runs only while spraying. Good Luck.

  109. Chris :

    Date: January 12, 2014 @ 4:56 pm

    well at the shop they said it wouldn’t even start with ether. im starting to lean more towards timing being off. if I figure anything out ill repost it for everyone else. thanks for the reply! much appreciated.

  110. Dan :

    Date: February 27, 2014 @ 2:02 pm

    2007 Mitsubishi Endeavor 3.8L SOHC; took car to dealership for scheduled maintenance on the timing belt, new timing belt kit was installed.  3,500 miles later (4 months) wife went to take car out of garage to go to work, when she started it it made a terrible noise so she shut it off immediately. Had it towed to the dealership to be looked at.  They found that the timing belt jumped and there is a mysterious hole in the timing belt cover.  They have no answer of why or how that happened. Now they are saying that there is damage to the valves and are trying to claim this is not their fault. They claim that when they took the case off there wasn’t any issue with anything they had worked on besides the belt being out of time. No one besides the mechanic (that did the belt the first time) was there when the timing belt cover was taken off. Does anyone know what could cause this problem?? 
    Thanks – Dan

  111. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 27, 2014 @ 2:36 pm

    Dan, normally a hole in the timing belt cover would indicate something inside the cover came loose and was propelled out by the spinning gears and or belt. The hole could be examined to make sure it broke outwards (from something loose inside like a bolt) rather than inwards like from something from the road like a pebble. It’s possible the belt itself caused the timing cover damage when it came loose and jumped. But the timing belt should not come loose and jump timing unless, it was not tensioned properly to begin with, something loosened up like an adjustment, the tensioner failed, a water pump bearing got loose or idler bearing allowed too much movement etc. They said nothing else was faulty though; Rather than going back to them with my opinion (some guy on the Internet) I recommend hiring an inspector that can take a look at this in person. They are very good at finding the cause of failure. Warranty companies use these inspectors all the time to make sure the shop is being honest and make sure (in some cases) that a technician is not being overly aggressive when writing an estimate. Be sure to tell the inspector that you want the “cause of failure” sometimes called cause and correction. If it wasn’t an error there should be a part at fault. If nothing else you don’t want all this work to be performed and the same faulty part that was not detected to cause this to happen again. This will be money well spent. Good Luck.

  112. Dan :

    Date: February 28, 2014 @ 9:15 pm

    Dennis- thank you very much!! The warranty company denied it, do you knit of any private inspectors in Connecticut that can be hired for another opinion?

  113. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 1, 2014 @ 8:28 am

    Dan, if the warranty company denied it that means there’s no mechanical part that failed. They don’t cover maintenance items like timing belts. So based on how the dealer wrote the claim, they must think that the problem was the timing belt or the improper installation of it. This seems to me that the shop had the last “hands” on it and they would be responsible since no part has failed…. I have no inspectors to recommend but it shouldn’t be hard to find one. Good Luck.

  114. johnny :

    Date: March 16, 2014 @ 5:23 pm

    I have a 2002 mitsubishi galant had a friend replacing the timing belt for me and he turned the crankshaft without turning the camshaft have not tried to do anything yet any suggestions?

  115. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 16, 2014 @ 6:56 pm

    Go by the repair manual for your particular engine size and line up the marks. Be sure everything is still lined up after the new belt has been installed. Good Luck.

  116. johnny :

    Date: March 16, 2014 @ 11:36 pm

    a friend was replacingb the timing belt for me and he turned the crankshaft one full revolution and did not turn the camshaft

  117. johnny :

    Date: March 17, 2014 @ 12:04 am

    How do I reset the timing after it jumped?

  118. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 17, 2014 @ 7:12 am

    If it’s jumped timing while driving/running it could have bent valves. Or if you try to start it out of sync or out of time (not line up right). Start with #1 at top dead center and go by the repair manual for your particular engine size and use the “line up” the marks on the cam and crank sprockets and the oil pump housing and cylinder head. Be sure everything is still lined up after the new belt has been installed. Good Luck.

  119. Sandro Rota :

    Date: March 23, 2014 @ 3:38 am

    I have a ’94 DOHC 24-Valve V6 3.5 Mitsubishi Montero.

    The engine suddenly started to make a very loud rattling sound. This noise comes from what appears to be the right side cams, right below the intake manifold, towards the firewall. The noise and vibration increase proportionally with the RPMs, and the vibration comes and goes. Also, on the exhaust, the mixture smells very rich, as if all the fuel isn’t being burned.

    This car had Timing Belts changed a few years ago. Could this be related to valves, cams, and timing belts? Thanks in advance.

  120. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 23, 2014 @ 9:22 am

    Sandro, you are correct in saying it could be related to valves or the timing belt. I would pull a timing cover to see if the belt is loose. If so that would explain the noise. It may have also jumped a tooth, which would explain the un-burned fuel.

  121. mikang :

    Date: April 17, 2014 @ 10:38 am

    my daughter has a 2005 3.8 Mitsubishi endeavor with a antifreeze leak (pretty heavy amount)under the engine.i assume it is the water hard is it to change the pump?do I need any special tools?i have never worked with a timing belt. what should I watch out for ?do not have a lot of money and would like to try and save a few $.

  122. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 17, 2014 @ 11:33 am

    First I would pressure test the cooling system to verify where the leak is coming from. The most common mistakes when installing a timing belt are; 1. Installing with the timing gears/sprockets mis-aligned. 2. Installing too loose. This can allow it to jump timing and possibly bend valves. 3. Installing too tight. Causes whirring noise and accelerated wear. Good Luck.

  123. fernando :

    Date: April 29, 2014 @ 9:24 am

    After filling up gas on 02 Montero XLS, temp gauge fluctuated ’til it read hot. No lights/codes thrown. Since then, have replaced temp sensor, thermostat, and coolant. To this day, temp gauge still fluctuating. Water pump going bad? No noise or leaks observed.

  124. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 29, 2014 @ 9:56 am

    Fernando, if the engine really is showing signs of overheating I would double check the accuracy of the gauge by hooking up a scan tool and seeing what the data screen says the temperature is. If it’s reading accurately and is actually overheating maybe the radiator is clogged up. Water pumps don’t just stop pumping. They usually start leaking. Rarely the impeller can rust to a point that it doesn’t pump, but that’s not very common. Good Luck.

  125. fernando :

    Date: April 29, 2014 @ 10:18 am

    What ‘scan tool’ are you referring too? I only have an OBDII reader. Thanks.

  126. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 29, 2014 @ 10:29 am

    Fernando, a simple code reader does not display data, a scan tool does. Most do-it your-selfers don’t need a scan tool because they wouldn’t understand what the data means anyway. But to get more in depth in diagnosing problems more information is needed. See the following scan tool on our tool website.

  127. orlando :

    Date: April 29, 2014 @ 5:55 pm

    My 1995 Sebring it has the 2.5 Mitsubishi engine, is leaking anti freeze around the timing belt cover. Help.

  128. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 30, 2014 @ 7:21 am

    Orlando, could be a water pump or a freeze plug. Someone will have to remove the timing covers and take a peak. Good Luck.

  129. kristi :

    Date: August 4, 2014 @ 10:44 pm

    I have had my timing belt and water pumped changed heads cleaned no bent valves still won’t start what else could be wrong?

  130. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 5, 2014 @ 7:24 am

    Kristi, the first thing that comes to mind would be that the timing is off, if there’s no compression the timing is off or the valves are bent. I’d double check the timing marks to make sure it was put back together properly. Besides that I would check the car like it has a common “no start” condition. 1. Check for fuel pressure. 2. Check for spark. 3. Check for injector pulse. Good Luck.

  131. kurt :

    Date: August 13, 2014 @ 5:54 pm

    I recently changed my spark plugs in my 2003 mitsubishi eclipse gt 3.0. I noticed the one plug was not tightened the whole way. When. I put the new one in I tightened it down. I started the vehicle and it started making a knocking noise. When I removed the spark plug it was bent. What could cause this?

  132. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 14, 2014 @ 7:31 am

    Kurt, I would say there’s several possibilities. As long as you are sure the plug was gapped properly when you installed it. The possibilities are; 1. The wrong spark plug was installed. If a wrong spark plug is used, it could come into contact with the piston or one of the valves inside the engine. Check the spark plug for correct application. If it has a longer reach it could be hit by the pistion or maybe a valve. 2. Something fell into the cylinder when you had the spark plug out. I once worked with a guy, that replaced a cylinder head gasket and had a rattle upon start up. There was a nut inside one of the cylinders being beat around. I’ve heard of a chunk of carbon loosening and falling into the cylinder causing this too. Could check with a video scope to see if there’s anything loose in the cylinder by sticking the camera probe into the cylinder for inspection. If a valve breaks it could be loose inside the cylinder. 3. Finally, if the sparkplug is the correct one, maybe the previous owner intentionally installed the spark plug only part of the way in. This may have been to hide the fact that there’s some mechanical issue that is interfering with the plug. Perhaps a bent valve or a worn rod bearing allowing a little extra travel of the piston. I would expect a poorly running engine if it had mechanical issues like this though. This is something that, perhaps the previous owner (seller) could have passed off as “it just needs a tune up”. Good Luck.

  133. Eric :

    Date: September 14, 2014 @ 11:12 am

    99 Galant with 3.0. — sometimes the temp would go up, then down when driving and on startup the water pump squeaked a little. Now one day on the highway the temp went up, heater on high did not help and then I eventually shut it off… now it leaks coolant on the water pump side. Oil is not milky, thermostat is good. Brought it home and filled the radiator up, car got to temp, but was also leaking prior to normal temp. But the radiator never got warm for 15-min of running. I’m about 63k miles since the last WP/TB change. While it’s running the WP squeaks and leak is on the belt side. Maybe coming from the weep hole?

  134. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 15, 2014 @ 10:36 am

    The squeak could be from coolant on the belt or a loose belt. The leak is most likely from the wwep hole or from the gasket area. Good Luck.

  135. tim :

    Date: September 20, 2014 @ 12:32 pm

    Is there a spacer behind the cam gear on a 2.5 dodge status? Seems to be rubbing the cylinder head.

  136. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 20, 2014 @ 6:42 pm

    Tim, there’s no spacer that I remember. Good Luck.

  137. Crystal Gomez :

    Date: October 12, 2014 @ 10:44 pm

    I have a 2001 Mitsubishi diamante 3.5 v6. Well it has been overheating. We changed out the radiator, a split hose, a new radiator fan and thermostat. Well any time we accelerate it over heats. We just got a new water pump but havent put it n yet. Before we put the new thermostat in it didnt over heat as fast. After we replaced the thermostat well it shot up fast into over heating. Im lost and need advice. Plz tell me something.

  138. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 13, 2014 @ 8:24 am

    Crystal, there could be an air pocket. Also I’d recommend checking for a blown head gasket by doing a carbon test to see if there’s exhaust in the cooling system. More information on our other website that I wrote on a Repeat Overheat condition.

  139. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 16, 2014 @ 7:47 am

    I would check the factory marks and go from there. Also check to see if there’s any vacuum leaks or if the throttle cable is hung up. Good Luck.

  140. oashae :

    Date: October 16, 2014 @ 12:08 pm

    Hey, Dennis I have a 1998 Chysler Sebring 2.5 V-6 and I changed the water pump and timing belt I installed the belt on inaccurate self made timing marks so now I’m pretty sure this is the problem but it revs right up as soon as it starts and stays that way.

  141. Dylan :

    Date: January 9, 2015 @ 10:20 pm

    I just did my timing belt but now I have a misfire what could i of done it runs and everything but it for sure has a misfire,

  142. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 10, 2015 @ 8:48 am

    If the timing belt broke while driving there could be bent valves which can cause a misfire. If you were just replacing for maintenance and the belt wasn’t broken and it ran good before, then I’d recheck the timing marks. Good Luck.

  143. Abidon Makotore :

    Date: January 12, 2015 @ 4:04 am

    I am trying to replace my fan belt for Mitsubishi Pajero/Shogun but it is so tight that it looks far too short, besides on the tensioner I cant see any other adjustment provisions. V6 (2006) 3.8 litre petrol engine.

  144. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 12, 2015 @ 7:11 am

    Could be the wrong belt. I always match up the old belt with the new one to make sure I have the correct length belt. Good Luck.

  145. sheree :

    Date: January 24, 2015 @ 4:26 pm

    Trying to see a diagram of where a throttle position sensor is located on a 2000 Dodge Stratus 2.5 l

  146. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 26, 2015 @ 7:46 am

    Sheree, sorry that was not covered in this article. But it is the sensor that measures the throttle plate opening in the throttle body. Good Luck.

  147. To :

    Date: February 5, 2015 @ 3:38 pm

    I’m doing my water pump/timing belt on a 99 Mitsubishi montero sport limited 3.5L
    When I get to top dead center the crank and drivers side cam are on the correct TDC position, my passenger side is almost a full quarter turn to the left from where it should be…
    I was very careful when pulling everything off and don’t think I could have changed the timing on the one side that much… Do I need to turn it to align? Also how do I know it is TDC on the # 1 cylinder..
    Thanks for any and all help.

  148. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 6, 2015 @ 11:12 am

    How to determine top dead center on the # one cylinder (besides looking at mark on timing cover and pointer on crank) – 1. Find number one cylinder. Tip: on all 4cyl engines and most V-6 and V-8 engines the number one cylinder is the one farthest to the front of the engine. I don’t say closest to the radiator because the engine could mounted sideways (transverse). 2. Remove the the #1 spark plug and see where piston is at. Tip: Use a long, small diameter screw driver down the spark plug hole, (being careful not to damage spark plug threads) and feeling when the piston is at it’s highest point (while turning crank).

    It’s always best when doing a timing belt for maintenance, to find the factory marks and make additional ones of your own.

  149. debbie :

    Date: February 9, 2015 @ 9:12 am

    My timing belt broke on my 2006 mitsibishi galant 2.4 took it to a shop to be repaired they put new belt but they removed my serpentine belt pulleys and didn’t put them back on my engine and told me I need a new motor how is that?

  150. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 9, 2015 @ 11:00 am

    Debbie, they may not haveput the serpentine belts back on if the valves are bent. If I were you I would ask them for more information. Good Luck.

  151. Milton :

    Date: February 18, 2015 @ 5:19 am

    I recently bought a 2000 Mitsubishi Pajero Exceed from Japan. I was told it ran on low oil for a few minutes. After starting it, there is a knocking sound like the hydraulic lifters making noise….the tapert noise. I would like to change the timing belt etc and remove the sludge as well. What I would want to know is. 1; is there any engine damage? 2; oil pump damage? And lastly when changing the timing belt, is there any need to change the bearings like what this mechanic has been suggesting? I am certain the clicking noise is not and engine nock but from the head. my car is Pajero 3.5 GDI. Thanks for your help.

  152. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 18, 2015 @ 7:38 am

    Milton, I’m at a clear disadvantage by not being there in person to hear and inspect the vehicle myself. However, what stands out to me in your statement is SLUDGE. There are products to disolve some sludge, but this can cause blockage of the pick up screen for the oil pump and may not clean everything out. If there’s sludge, the passages for the oil can be restricted causing a lack of oiling. Lack of oiling can affect the lifters and cause bearing wear. Removing sludge entirely would involve disassembling the engine completely. Bearings can be inspected at that time, along with replacing lifters, seals, gaskets, water pump, timing belt etc. If there’s bearing wear, you may need to replace cams and cranks. But this is probabaly a 25 hour job including the labor involved to remove the engine, tear it apart, go through it, reassemble it and install it back into the vehicle. As a lower cost option, I would consider getting a good used engine instead. Good Luck.

  153. Milton :

    Date: February 18, 2015 @ 1:49 pm

    Thanks Dennis. I also suspect it could be sludge. I got a second opinion and the other Mechanic shares your view point. He has, however, suggested flushing the engine with diesel, removing the sump and cleaning up the the whole bottom. Inspect the bearings and he if there is bearing wear, he is suggesting getting a new motor in which suits me fine. I will give you feedback soon.

  154. Milton :

    Date: February 24, 2015 @ 8:38 am

    Hi Dennis. I had my Mitsubishi Pajero, 2002, 3.5GDI checked. Timing belt, fitted a new one. Checked sludge…..not an easy job I must tell you. The oil was just dirty and sludge was accumulating. Checked bearings, water pump, oil pump and the mechanic did a thorough engine flush, cleaning up everything, fitted new oil filter, plugs, new magnetic oil drain plug. Ran the car and everything was fine except one problem. When I took it for a spin, the engine oil light came on. Switched it off, started it, the oil light went off, came on after some seconds and started flashing first and then stayed on continuously. Checked the oil, it’s clean, opened the oil cap while it was running and I could see oil splashes. Looks like the oil pump is working fine as it looked new as well and I did not change it. Before I spend money on a new oil pump, I am suspecting that it could be the oil pressure switch that is faulty. How will I know it’s the oil pressure switch and where is it located on this car. Thanks for your help.

  155. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 24, 2015 @ 8:55 am

    Milton, it’s possible that it’s the oil pressure switch (refer to manual for location). But it’s also possible (like I mentioned before) that blockage of the pick up screen for the oil pump can occur when disolving the sludge. That’s why I advised against that approach. I would pull the pan and inspect the pick up screen. If it’s clean, do an oil pressure test with a gauge. The passages could still be clogged. Good Luck.

  156. Milton :

    Date: February 24, 2015 @ 9:23 am

    Will do the oil pressure test tomorrow and if it’s ok, I will change the oil pressure switch and advise. I can only afford another engine later this year. Not now.

  157. Milton :

    Date: February 25, 2015 @ 4:04 pm

    Hi Dennis. Here is what I discovered. I did the oil pressure test and it was fine. I then decided on my on to check the following. Oil pressure switch, which turn out to be fine. I then checked to see if the air cleaner element was replaced….it wasn’t and was almost blocked with dirt. I bought a new one and my idling became a little bit more normal. I then inspected the engine as it sounded like it had a vacuum leak. I saw that the pipe that blows hot air from the exhaust section into the left side of the cylinder head had some black smoke on the neck but not on the gasket. I took it out. Replaced with a new one and the motor ran fine after and the oil light was gone. Then I revved the engine….3000rpm for about 10 to 15 seconds, stopped and repeated that for about 2 to 3 times. The hydraulic lifter noise stopped. I checked my oil dip stick… it was still clean. I drove the car for about 200km, stopped it for hours until it had cooled down. I started it and it ran as smooth as new. Oil light issue not there. Checked the oil pressure again, it was fine. Checked the oil, it was still clean. Here is what the mechanic did… I am not too sure if you would recommend it when it comes to removing sludge. He ran the car hot. Drained the dirty oil. Took one liter of oil and mixed it with 4 liters of diesel, poured into the engine with a new oil filter in. Ran the car for about 30 minutes at idling speed. Drained the diesel oil mixture which was very dirty still. He then took out the sump cover…. not an easy thing to do on these 4wd vehicles. Inspected the pump, bearing wear and the pick up screen. With the sump out. He took 5 liters of clean diesel fuel and poured into the engine. Cleaned up everything and replaced the timing belt kit, plugs and oil filter again. He forgot to take out the air filter. Ran the motor with new oil in and then the engine oil light was off. I took it for a spin, it came on. Then it started coming on when stopped but when driving it will go off. After a few stops, it started flashing like when the car is about to switch off because the idling was below 400 rpms. I guess one can get away with removing sludge using diesel. Now it’s so smooth after the air filter replacement and the pipe I mentioned above. Thank you for pointing me to my problem. I appreciate it.

  158. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 25, 2015 @ 5:11 pm

    Milton, thanks for letting us know how it worked out. Good Luck.

  159. David Jefferson :

    Date: March 11, 2015 @ 9:20 pm

    I have a problem, I bought a 94 Mitsubishi Montero and just recently it stopped running and I have no idea why. So when I try to start it I can here the motor doing something but the belts and the fan is not moving, I have took off most of the front of the motor to see if my timing belt has broken but it’s still in good condition and it’s not broke…now here lies the problem, I have no idea what it could be…could any one help with this problem. Thanks.

  160. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 12, 2015 @ 7:15 am

    The accessory belts for the AC compressor, alternator and power steering should turn when the crank pulley (the main one at the front bottom of the engine) turns regardless of whether the timing belt is stripped or broken. I’d examine the crank pulley while someone tries to start the engine with the key and if needed, by turning it manually with a socket on the carnk bolt. Good Luck.

  161. zory :

    Date: September 12, 2015 @ 6:37 am

    My Mitsubishi Endevour wont start after replacing timing belt and water pump. Can you help?

  162. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 12, 2015 @ 8:54 am

    Zory, the timing is probably off a tooth. Recheck all timing marks. Good Luck.

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