Timing Belt Replacement 2.4 Mitsubishi – Questions and AnswersAugust 29, 2009 1:46 pm DIY, How To Auto Repair, Mistubishi, Timing Belt
© DenLorsTools.com Summary: In this automotive repair article we cover timing belt R&R instructions on the Mitsubishi 2.4 L SOHC engine and the recommended replacement interval. We list the different makes and models that use this particular engine. Automotive repair questions and answers are included along with a diagram for timing belt marks.
The Mitsubishi 2.4 Liter SOHC engine is used in the Eclipse, Galant and Outlander. Many people are unaware that the engine is also used in the Chrysler Sebring and Dodge Stratus. It’s important to know that the 2.4 is an interference engine that may end up with bent valves and possibly damaged pistons if the timing belt strips or breaks during driving. The motor includes a main timing belt and a smaller balance shaft belt. Both of these should be replaced at the same time. The manufacturer recommended replacement interval is every 60,000 miles.
The job of replacing the timing belts on this engine is basically the same, regardless of which vehicle it is in. Specific directions for a particular model and year can be obtained online with ALLData for a small subscription fee. The subscription is offered in several different levels and is very affordable.
It’s a great way to access information without waiting. Use the repair information for a timing belt project today and to refer back to it later if other repairs need to be made at a later date. Many people are doing more of their own maintenance with the help of free auto repair information like in this blog and other repair info accessed on-line including routing and torque specifications. Car questions answered in a timely manner by professional auto technicians on our car question page can sometimes make the difference that provides a do it-yourselfer with the extra information they need to complete a job at home successfully and save hundreds of dollars.
There are several precautions keep in mind. It’s always best to disconnect the battery’s ground cable, do not turn the crank shaft or camshaft with the timing belt removed. Some people prefer to remove the spark plugs to make the engine easier to turn although this is not necessary. Turn the crank shaft in the normal direction of rotation which is clockwise. Do not try to turn the crankshaft by turning the camshaft bolt. It’s always best to use tightening torque specifications provided by the manufacturer.
1. Raise and support the vehicle. If doing this at home use a floor jack and jack stands for safety. Then the right front wheel is removed and then the splash shield. It‘s easiest to loosen the water pump bolts before removing the accessory belts, otherwise the entire pulley will turn. Then remove the alternator, AC and power steering belts. After the belts are removed the upper timing cover can be taken off.
2. Always start with the engine at top dead center compression stroke with the timing marks aligned. Find top dead center by removing the #1 spark plug which is closest to the front of the engine and placing a screwdriver or 1/4″ extension down the hole. Turn the crank slowly and make sure it doesn’t bind – when the tool that was inserted reaches the highest point, top dead center is reached. Verify with marks.
3. Toward the engine with a block of wood on the floor jack positioned underneath the oil pan. Once the engine is lifted up slightly a motor mount can then be removed.
4. Leave the main crankshaft bolt in place. Remove the smaller bolts holding the crank pulley in place pulley to the side. Then remove the lower timing belt cover.
5. Now look for the timing belt marks and make sure they are aligned. I recommend making some of your own marks as well with white touch up paint or white out. Of course this will not be possible if replacing a broken or stripped belt. But when replacing a belt for maintenance I like the additional assurance, that the extra marks give me.
6. The main belt’s tensioner is hydraulic. The 12 mm bolts are removed and then he tensioner can be placed in a bench vice to be compressed. The pin to hold a tensioner in place is sometimes referred to by mechanics as grenade pins. Sometimes a small drill bit can be used instead of the specific pin. If you are replacing a tensioner it will come with the correct pin.
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