Engine Vibration Causes – Free Auto Repair Tips

4:51 pm DIY, Drivetrain and Noises, How To Auto Repair

 Kia_With_Engine_Vibration

This Kia Rio had a severe engine vibration, see the picture below for the cause.

© DenLorsTools.com Summary: Suggestions of what to check when a car has excessive drivetrain vibrations. There are several things that can cause an engine to shake. If there is an engine vibration problem, typically it gets worse with the air conditioning turned on since there is more of a load on the engine. In this auto repair article, we will cover several things that can be looked at to help diagnose the problem.

Misfires can definitely cause an engine to shake, usually in most late model cars a misfire will almost always be accompanied by a CEL (Check Engine Light) and misfire code. Many times if the engine also stalls, there could be excess carbon build up on the throttle plates or IAC (idle air control motor). Cleaning the throttle body and IAC is a common practice when trying to eliminate possible causes of engines vibrating.

Broken engine and transmission mounts can often be the cause of clanking, thumping and shaking. What the engine and transmission mounts actually do, in addition to securing those major components is to isolate the vibrating sensation and keep the passenger compartment as smooth and as vibration free as possible. It’s the same idea with exhaust hangers that have rubber incorporated into them to reduce and isolate vibration. This is the reason that some automobile manufacturers call them insulators and not motor mounts. One cause of failure can be that the rubber in the mount has collapsed, greatly reducing their ability to absorb vibration from the engine or transmission. Collapsed mounts are the hardest to diagnose, since the rubber may not appear to be worn. Typically when checking engine mounts, one person will be in the driver’s seat power braking while an assistant checks for excessive movement in the mounts. This can be dangerous if the person in the driver’s seat accidentally slips off the brake. Extreme caution is advised. Checking the mounts with a light that can provide plenty of illumination is recommended.

  • While power braking in drive and reverse, broken mounts may show more movement in one direction or the other.
  • Check for worn mounts while rocking the car back and forth with your legs pushing on the bumper. This is a quick check that is easy to do by yourself with the engine off and the car in park.
  • If you choose to check the mounts by rocking the car, make sure that the hood is supported well. More than once, I’ve caught the car hood as it fell due to weak hood shocks.
  • Some motor mounts can be diagnosed just with a visual inspection. Look for splits or tears in the rubber.

When changing motor and transmission mounts, the car needs to be well supported. If a vehicle lift is not being used, floor jacks need to support the car. Then use 2×4 block of wood on a floor jack place under the oil pan or transmission. Alternatively the engine can be suported by an engine support bar from the top-side. If a vehicle lift is being used, tall jack stands or jack screws under the car can be used to allow more comfortable working conditions.

Tools Needed to Check & Change Motor Mounts

  1. A good flashlight or drop light.
  2. Floor jack and/or jack stand.
  3. Vehicle lift is preferred but not always necessary.
  4. Jack screw or tall jack stand if working with the car on a lift.
  5. Hand tools like wrenches, sockets, ratchets and extensions.
Broken Cooling_Fan_Blades
Worn fan blades can cause the entire car to shake.
 
Other Causes
Sometimes something less thought of can be causing a vibration. It’s a good practice to check the cooling fan blades. If the blades are worn, the balance thrown off and this can cause the entire car to shake! Also worth a mention is the harmonic balancer. If the rubber is deteriorated it can cause the car to shake badly. The harmonic balancer can be called by several names.
  1. Harmonic balancer.
  2. Crankshaft pulley.
  3. Crank pulley.
  4. Crankcase pulley.
  5. Damper or dampener.
  6. After market crank pulleys designed to increase engine power are called underdrive pulleys.

Related Specialty Tools and Articles

CV Joint Tools

Other DriveTrain Articles

312 Responses
  1. elijah :

    Date: May 28, 2010 @ 7:50 pm

    My car vibrates (engine) and it doesn’t have all the power, there’s tons of power that’s missing, I’ve recently changed the distributor cap and rotor and the spark plugs, what can it be? Its a 96 toyota camry V4

  2. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 29, 2010 @ 8:10 am

    Elijah, if the problem wasn’t there before changing the plugs, cap & rotor; double check your work. If the car was already running bad before you changed parts, then there could be several things wrong. If there’s a check engine light on, use an automotive scan tool to see what the code is. See the following link to an article I wrote for a different website that goes over some common misfire causes.

    Top 10 Misfire Causes

    You may also want to ask a dealer tech for additional help – ask on our car questions page linked at the top of this page.

  3. m a :

    Date: October 11, 2010 @ 10:52 pm

    Hi
    I have a grand marquis 96 model
    After replacing the spark plugs and
    their wires and spraying air intake cleaning spray
    shake disappeared for a day
    then back for more than 2 weeks now
    Is it something serious?

  4. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 12, 2010 @ 6:30 am

    If a misfire has returned, it sounds like the spark plugs may have been fouled. Further diagnostics would be needed to determine what the problem is. Also I would check for vacuum leaks, since that could cause a rough idle too.

  5. Katie :

    Date: November 28, 2010 @ 12:59 am

    I have a 2002 dodge stratus that shakes and vibrates ONLY when I am braked at a complete stop, and it doesn’t do it all the time. I have one person telling me motor mounts, and another saying torque converter. I am on my third motor in this car, yes THIRD. I’m really hoping this isn’t a transmission problem, but I don’t know how to tell the difference.

  6. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 28, 2010 @ 8:18 am

    Katie, collapsed or broken motor mounts can cause a vibration. They tend to cause more vibration on 4 cylinder engines than 6 cylinder motors – you didn’t say if you have a 2.4 or 3.0. You did say that it doesn’t vibrate ALL the time while at idle though – if it were a bad motor mount it would be bad ALL the time not intermittantly. So the vibration should be felt all the time at idle if this were the cause.

    The same could be said for the torque converter at idle, or the harmonic balancer, or balance shaft for that matter.

    I would look at things that cycle on and off which would explain why you don’t feel a vibration all the time. The cooling fans and the AC compressor are prime suspects since they do not run all the time. So to me, they would be worth checking into. One more thought is an intermittent misfire, you would most likely have a check eng. light on and a misfire code stored if this was the problem. Good Luck.

  7. Law :

    Date: February 7, 2011 @ 8:47 am

    Mine is a Honda LX 1992 automatic transmission. I rather experience vibration when I drive into a traffic grid. But when the gear is at park no vibration at all.
    Please help out

  8. Jawad :

    Date: March 21, 2011 @ 8:01 am

    I have a KIA Rio 2000, it has vibration and shaking when I stand on gear and press the brakes! Sometimes when I wanted reserve or drive slowly it has been shot down! What should i do to fix it?

  9. Benzee1 :

    Date: April 19, 2011 @ 5:03 pm

    Got an 89 Dodge B350 van. Whole vehicle vibrates while driving, can feel it through the gas pedal even. At certain speeds and/or acceleration/deceleration the vibration gets harsh and loud. Engine mounts and tranny mount are not broken. This vibration has busted a smog pipe off the catalytic converter and busted the exhaust pipe off at the catalytic converter.

  10. Benzee1 :

    Date: April 20, 2011 @ 3:19 pm

    Found the cause! U-Joint. Broke and took out the tranny.

  11. Shina :

    Date: August 21, 2011 @ 2:35 am

    Hey I just bought a 2003 VW passat 1.8 Liter 4cyl.. The car is great I also changed the rear brake pads. The problem that I’m facing now is that every time the car is Drive and I’m stopped on a red light or traffic the car shakes and same thing if the car is parked. But while I’m driving it does not really shake. I’m a bit scared and it would be appreciated if I can get an idea of what can it be.
    Thanks to whoever replies.

  12. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 21, 2011 @ 8:23 am

    Shina, along with the tips in the repair article above, I would pay close attention to the motor mounts and also the sepentine belt. If the the serpentine belts flops around a lot at idle this may indicate a problem with the spring loaded belt tensioner. Good Luck.

  13. Nick :

    Date: August 23, 2011 @ 2:15 pm

    I recently had my 96 mustang engine components switched from a bad 3.8 block onto a good 2001 3.8 block. Plugs and wireset have been changed already to new parts. Have vibration in idle, less while driving. Had a P1121 code come on before too (Idle air control), new engine also has a balancer where the old one didn’t. The guy that put the engine in said it should go away on its own, but I wanna get a second opinion.

  14. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 23, 2011 @ 3:18 pm

    Nick, it’s hard to second guess someone who knows which parts he re-used and which parts were used on the replacement motor etc. If I were checking the problem, I would check the engine integrity by doing a compression test. If that’s OK I check the P1121 code (if it is a hard code) which could be related to the TPS circuit. If the TPS was not reused from the old motor or if an engine chain was allowed to apply pressure on it during the engine swap it could have been damaged. Good Luck.

  15. Nick :

    Date: August 26, 2011 @ 12:02 pm

    TPS got changed out too. The guy said the computer’s gotta relearn the timing or something. I’m hoping it’s not the motor mounts, because he shoulda seen that when he was dropping the engine back in.

  16. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 26, 2011 @ 1:09 pm

    Nick, adaptive fuel strategies do have to be “relearned”. This may take several trips. However, the P1121 would not be set in relation to this. If this code comes back, there is a problem.

    As far as the mechanic seeing the motor mounts condition when changing the motor… yes, he may have seen them but that doesn’t mean they are not collapsed. Collapsed mounts may look perfectly fine but cause a vibration like you are experiencing.

  17. Nick :

    Date: August 30, 2011 @ 12:10 am

    Could it just be that the timing is off, cuz I have some hesitation/resistance when I push the gas pedal? It’s not huge but it’s there. If I adjust it will that end the vibration?

  18. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 30, 2011 @ 6:31 am

    Nick, you may be able to adjust base timing, but the car adjusts timing with the computer when needed. If I were checking the car, would check for codes and the items already mentioned previously. Good Luck.

  19. Anson :

    Date: September 21, 2011 @ 5:35 pm

    Hi,my car is 4 cylinder nissan x-trail (wagon). Engine doesn’t shake when stopping. It shakes only when it starts moving when the speed is bellow 30 kph. Got any idea?

  20. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 21, 2011 @ 5:46 pm

    Anson, I could diagnose this much easier by driving. I would guess that there could be a misfire but the list is long of other possibilities. I would first try to determine if the vibration is engine, transmission, differential or wheel related. Without more to go on, the best suggestion I could give you is to take it to a repair shop and ask a technician to go for a quick test drive and give you an opinion. Good Luck.

  21. Thabo :

    Date: October 28, 2011 @ 4:46 am

    I have a 1999 Toyota corolla crystal light, automatic 1.3 4E engine, the engine is vibrating when put on reverse and while driving.I have replaced the engine mounts but the vibration is still there, pliz help.

  22. sammer :

    Date: October 29, 2011 @ 2:51 pm

    I have 2002 kia optima with 2000cc engine vibration of engine transmitted to car cabin I ask for reason and solution.

  23. sal :

    Date: October 29, 2011 @ 4:02 pm

    I have a 2002 ford explorer xls, truck shakes at idle,have changed, fuel injector, mass flow and mechanic now says it could be a vaccum leak. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

  24. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 29, 2011 @ 4:07 pm

    Sammer, the article covers some things that could cause vibrations. Mounts, engine mechanical integrity, check engine light that may indicate a misfire, the list goes on… Although I would like to provide a solution, it will take a technician that can actually see the car in person to to diagnose it. Good Luck.

  25. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 29, 2011 @ 4:09 pm

    Sal, I would check compression in all cylinders, check mode 6 for misfires and smoke test for vacuum leaks.

  26. sam deya :

    Date: November 15, 2011 @ 2:48 am

    I love this blog. It has greatly improved my understanding of my little jalopy toyota starlet EP91 4E-FE 1300cc engine. Keep it up dennisb

  27. sam deya :

    Date: November 15, 2011 @ 2:54 am

    Now my Toyota starlet EP91, 1998 model 4E-FE 1300cc manual transmission engine vibrates a lot when idling, misfires on gear two almost to a stop and fuel consumption has worsened. I have recently replaced plugs, fuel filter, air filter and the engine mounts without much success. please advise.

    sam deya

  28. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 15, 2011 @ 6:32 am

    Sam, I would check for trouble codes (check engine light on?) and vacuum leaks. A compression test may also make sense just to make sure the engine is mechanically in good condition. Good Luck.

  29. pringle :

    Date: November 15, 2011 @ 9:09 pm

    Hi there I have a 2006 nissan x trail 2.5,the engine vibrates when I put it in drive or reverse but it idles great in neutral or park. I cleaned the throttle body and was wondering if it is a vacuum leak, and if you can tell me what hose to check for? Thanks.

  30. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 16, 2011 @ 6:30 am

    Pringle, if I were checking it I would first check the motor mounts. There is no particular hose to check for a vacuum leak on your model. As you already know from reading the article there are many potential causes of an engine vibration. However, if I thought there was a vacuum leak I would use an evaporative smoke machine to detect the problem.

    It’s surprising to me how many car owners when looking for the cause of a vibration, overlook the check engine light illuminated on their dash. A check engine (or service engine soon) may indicate a misfire or some other problem which may lead to the the source of the issue. Good Luck.

  31. mark o :

    Date: November 21, 2011 @ 8:43 pm

    i have a 96 camry 4cyl,when i put it in drive or revers i get a bad vibration. i changed the motor mounts no help i was told thr converter is bad .what do you think?is ther a way to check the converter befor i have it changed and find that was not the issue.

  32. natalie :

    Date: November 25, 2011 @ 12:49 pm

    I have a 2005 Audi a4 2.0t….I recently had the spark plugs changed as its almost at 100k because it was “jigging” like a backward and forward motion when u tried to accelerate and computer diagnosis showed a cylinder was missfiring. Now a few weeks later it has started to vibrate really badly upon acceleration but not really after u hit 45mph and stops as soon as u let off the gas. Car also feels like it has lost power. Could this be due to a timing belt? It needs to be replaced soon and have put in an order. Motor mounts? What else would case this?

  33. natalie :

    Date: November 25, 2011 @ 12:50 pm

    Sorry…not until u hit 45mph….its smooth before that, then just shakes all to hell!

  34. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 25, 2011 @ 12:53 pm

    With no misfire codes set, I would suspect a CV joint as a possible cause. Good Luck.

  35. natalie :

    Date: November 25, 2011 @ 2:36 pm

    Thank you,How do I know if my car is 2005 or 2005.5? And. If its a b6/b7 etc?

  36. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 25, 2011 @ 2:42 pm

    Natile, the dealer parts department may be the most help. The manufacturer date should found on the drivers door jamb. Wikipedia has some information on model differences. Good Luck.

  37. DK :

    Date: December 18, 2011 @ 1:07 pm

    I have a 91 300zx, had the timing belt replaced 3 injectors, plugs, wiring harness and the knock sensor (relocated it to upper plenum). The car before I had all that work complete ran smooth as can be, now it vibrates revs course. Any suggestions? I have had it back to the nissan dealership 3 times for this and they tell me it runs fine, but I know how it used to run. Any help would be appreciated!!!! thanks.

  38. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 18, 2011 @ 3:09 pm

    DK, the dealer would have a better chance at fixing your car than I would since I cannot feel the vibration, test drive etc without being there in person. Good Luck.

  39. Rafael :

    Date: December 20, 2011 @ 8:50 pm

    Hi I got a vibrate coming from my engine only when its in drive…I have 1999 nissan altima SE..Any suggestions please

  40. Jacob :

    Date: December 21, 2011 @ 12:38 am

    my Yr2000 Toyota 111 got some annoying vibrations during stop to move transition and hill balancing.No problem once in motion. Could this be a gearbox mount problem as suggested by my mech.

  41. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 21, 2011 @ 6:27 am

    Jacob, if I were checking the vehicle in person I would suspect the engine or transmission mounts too. Sounds like the mechanic is on the right track. Good Luck.

  42. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 21, 2011 @ 6:29 am

    Rafael, Tension on the mounts varies once the the transmission is put into drive. Possibility of worn or collapsed mounts.

  43. iMerchant :

    Date: January 4, 2012 @ 6:31 pm

    96 Explorer V6 4WD – engine shakes severely when idling but in gear (like at a stop light). I will often put it in park waiting for the light and vibration goes down significantly. At first I thought it might be the mounts, but after some online searching, now I’m thinking it might be the harmonic balancer. Acceleration performance has gone way down too. What do you think? Approximately how much time/$$ would it take a reputable shop to change a harmonic balancer?

  44. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 4, 2012 @ 6:44 pm

    A harmonic balancer would probably be about 1.5 hours labor time to change, but I would have them check it first so your money is not wasted. Good Luck.

  45. iMerchant :

    Date: January 5, 2012 @ 11:57 am

    @dennisb – Thanks. 1.5 hrs doesn’t sound too bad and it appears the part isn’t too expensive either. I forgot to mention that it sometimes “struggles” to turn over when starting the engine. Pretty sure it isn’t the battery/alternator as I replaced the battery and it still did the same thing when I first started engine with new battery. A friend of mine who’s an amatuer mechanic (I virtually know nothing)said it seemed as if one of the pulleys was catching/tightening up or something and causing the whole engine to bog down to the point of stalling (this has only happened once, thank goodness). He didn’t have a suggestion other than maybe A/C, but I don’t think that would cause the whole engine to shake so violently. Based on what you know, do you think I am on the right track on where to focus the troubleshooting to start off with (balancer vs mounts)? Or do you have another possible cause that fits my symptoms better than the HB given the limited info you have from my posts? I know you haven’t driven my Explorer/etc/etc and can’t give a definitive answer. I know next to nothing about cars/engines which always makes me skeptical whenever going to a mechanic because I don’t know if they trying to sell me a nice-to-have-done fix but explained as a this-is-what-NEEDS-to-be-done fix are feeding me a bunch of BS (even the ‘reputable’ ones). I guess I’m looking for a warm fuzzy that my non-mechanic brain might be on the right track. Knowledge is power.

  46. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 5, 2012 @ 12:20 pm

    Yeah, it’s really impossible to guess without checking the vehicle in person, As far as the slow starting, I would check the starter and connections. probably not related to the vibration. It’s best to find a local mechanic you can trust and one that will take the time to explain and show you the faulty parts if possible. Good Luck.

  47. chris r :

    Date: January 19, 2012 @ 12:01 pm

    Hi, my fiance has a 04 kia rio 4cyl. about 115k miles. she said the problem started about 2 weeks ago. After the car warms up the engine shakes/vibrates. She had a tune up about 10k miles ago (oil filter,air filter, plugs). its ran fine til now. she had timing belt replaced at 70k-75k miles. no check engine lights, gets worse when ac is on. only noticable at idle in park or drive. im gonna change plugs and wires and check air filter. Is there a mas(mass airlow sensor)? Where do i go from there?

  48. Michelle :

    Date: February 1, 2012 @ 3:30 pm

    Hello I have a Nissan Altima 08 Hybrid… Out of no where I’m getting problems w it. 1st it was the check engine light & they told me it was spark plugs & coil..so my fiance replaced those & we even got a new air filter & put that stuff in the tank to clean it out…light eventually went off but now its shaking,..it only shakes when im braking..it shakes pretty bad. my fiance doesnt think its the rotors cuz its not coming from the tires..he thinks its carbon buildup..can you help me?

  49. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 1, 2012 @ 4:45 pm

    Michelle, usually shaking only when applying the brakes is a very good indication of warped rotors. Good Luck.

  50. Michelle :

    Date: February 2, 2012 @ 12:51 pm

    Ok I will take it somewhere so they can look at the rotors for me. One more thing do you think it could be having issues when it is going from gas to electric & then electric to gas? Its a hybrid.

  51. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 2, 2012 @ 2:11 pm

    Someone would need to drive it, but if it only shakes when you put the brakes on it’s very common for it to be the rotors warped. Some mechanics call it “brake shake” some technicians call it a brake pulsation due to excessive side to side runout.

  52. Rich :

    Date: February 26, 2012 @ 8:49 am

    my friends kia ( spectra I think?) little 4 cyclinder anyway, does intermittent shaking….. definitely coming from the engine. dependent on rpms…… so would that suggest a misfire which leads down the path of plug wires dist cap check etc? thanks, rich

  53. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 26, 2012 @ 10:25 am

    Rich, if there’s a misfire there should be a misfire code set. Good luck.

  54. Rich :

    Date: February 26, 2012 @ 11:07 am

    thanks , trying to locate a diagnostic computer and go from there

  55. RAYMOND :

    Date: March 2, 2012 @ 5:21 pm

    I last year I bought a rebuilt motor for my 1984 buick century 6 cyl 3.0 eng.after installing it I noticed some vibration. I had the motor mounts checked and replaced the trans mount and the harmonic balancer to no avail. I have approx. 1000 mi since installing. When I start the engine I hear a rattling noise but soon smooths out. I DID get a bad engine.

  56. Dave H :

    Date: March 9, 2012 @ 11:21 am

    My 94 Honda Accord have some unusual drivetrain vibrations. I had the clutch master cylinder replaced two weeks ago. A few days ago I had the middle exhaust pipe with resonator replaced. Ever since the exhaust job I get a vibration at speeds over 40, only after driving more than 20 miles, feels like road vibration but over stretches I drive regularly and it’s normally smooth.

  57. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 9, 2012 @ 11:47 am

    Dave, if the vibration wasn’t noticed until after the exhaust work, that’s where I would look first. If the exhaust rubs or interfere’s with anything it could vibrate. Also if there are any new hangers, I would make sure they have “rubber” in them. Preferably the new exhaust would use the original type hangers, because sometimes the aftermarket ones can transfer more vibration. I worked with a guy a long time ago that welded the solid metal strapping (with no rubber) to the exhaust and attached the other end to the frame… needless to say it caused severe vibration. Good Luck.

  58. kejdi :

    Date: March 11, 2012 @ 2:59 pm

    I have a 2003 kia rio 1.5 petrol automatic transmission. Engine is vibrating a little, changed spark plugs,and asked KIA MOTORS in my country Tirana, and the mechanics said ,engine vibration come from a lot of things, like bad fuel, spark plugs etc, i changed the spark plugs, vibration is still there. What can I do ? Thanks in advance, Kejdi. My mileage on the car is 95.000 km, have done all the services regularly never had any engine problem with my car. Only a lot of generic ones ,like parallel heads and things like that.

  59. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 11, 2012 @ 4:58 pm

    Kejdi, a little vibration in 4cyl. engines is not at all uncommon. If you think the vibration is more than it was previously, the tips in the article may help. Also, I would clean the throttle plates since you didn’t mention that in your recent maintenance. I have to admit, I’m not sure what you are referring to concerning “parallel heads”.

  60. John :

    Date: March 21, 2012 @ 6:17 pm

    I got a 78 gmc with a bad engine vibration, it causes the bolts holding the starter to break off in the block, wat could cause this. different mechanic have all said different problems, like no one knows exactly whats wrong!

  61. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 21, 2012 @ 6:28 pm

    John, sorry not enough to go on. I might look in the flywheel/flex-plate area. The flywheel could be cracked or broken, transmission bolts could be starting to loosen up, etc. However the mechanics you’ve spoken with have a better chance diagnosing this since they have more information by physically seeing, hearing and feeling the vehicle. Good Luck.

  62. Mike :

    Date: March 21, 2012 @ 8:01 pm

    Hi. I have a 2002 Mazda Protege 2.0 The problem I have with this car is that the engine vibrates a lot while I put the car in Drive or Reverse. No engine vibration while in idle. I checked the passenger side and transmission mounts and the rubber appears to be broken. Is there any other cause for the engine to vibrate in my case other than mount?like torque converter/harmonic balancer.
    The engine does not stall and I dont have a check engine light on. (So Im assuming it could not be a misfire) Thanks

  63. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 23, 2012 @ 8:35 am

    Mike the mounts are the obvious place to start since you say they are broken. Mazda vehicles are not known as having problems with torque converters (causing vibrations). So I would most likely rule that out. If the car has high mileage and runs bad I would do a compression test. However if there were any severe misfires there would be a check eng. light on and a misfire code stored in the vehicles computer. Good Luck.

  64. Bennie :

    Date: April 16, 2012 @ 7:08 pm

    I Have A 98 Dodge Stratus 2.4 L, my wife’s car. She said it vibrates a lot when stopped completely. At a stop sign or at any stop. So my friend changed both front and back motor mounts and it still has a little vibration when you cut the AC on and run it. Which as hot as it is here in Georgia right now she needs the AC on during the day. What do you think is still causing the vibration in the engine? When you cut the AC off it goes down to nearly no vibration. What do you think and what can I do to fix this problem? Please reply ASAP Please ! Thanks for your time. Dennisb …… Help please! We don’t know!

  65. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 17, 2012 @ 6:58 am

    Bennie even in a brand new 4 cyl. car it is quite common to have some vibration when the AC is turned on. Usually 6 and 8 cylinders are smoother at idle due to having opposing cylinders which (counter) balance each other out. The AC being on puts more load on the engine. On any car, it’s typical that at higher RPM’s the vibration smooths out.

    If you think there’s more vibration than normal for your wife’s car, you may want to look at some of the things mentioned in the article like throttle plates being dirty, etc. Also, remember that there are usually four mounts not just the front and back engine mounts. The one in the front of the engine (passenger side) and the one that mounted to the rear of the transmission (driver’s side) hold considerable weight and can allow excess vibration to transfer through the body if they are collapsed. Good Luck.

  66. james :

    Date: April 23, 2012 @ 2:11 pm

    hi i have a 1990 toyota celica GTS with a 2.2 engine and auto trans. as soon as the engine starts it just vibrates like crazy and never stops it has not lost any power and check engine light is not on. it runs good but just vibrates.new flex plate, plugs, wires, distibuter cap. motor does have 150,xxx miles on it

  67. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 23, 2012 @ 2:39 pm

    James, I would start with a compression test to see if all the cylinders have good compression and there’s not more than a 10% difference between them. More than a 10% variance will most likely result in a rough, vibrating engine. I would also check other things mentioned in the article. Good Luck.

  68. heath3000 :

    Date: May 31, 2012 @ 1:36 pm

    My engine vibration is only at idle under 1000 rpms, excessively worse when a/c is on. When parked, if I rev the engine even slightly, the vibration goes away. I tried testing the engine mounts by taking some of the weight of the engine with a floor jack, and the vibration improved, but did not go away.

  69. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 1, 2012 @ 7:09 am

    Heath, particularly with 4cyl engines, it’s common to have more vibration with the AC on since there is more load on the motor. It’s also common for any engine to smooth out more at higher RPM’s. As the article states, there are many different possible causes for excessive engine vibration. By doing your floor jack test and feeling a difference, this could indicate partially collapsed mounts. I would look for oily residue (if the mounts are oil filled). And look for tears in the mounts; and if you can see how much travel the mounts have without stretching the rubber to try to determine how collapsed they really are. This is easier said than done however. Sometimes you have to make an educated guess. Good Luck.

  70. Josh :

    Date: June 10, 2012 @ 1:01 am

    Hi I have a 2005 dodge magnum and when I am driving and I hit 45-50 mph I get a bad vibration. It seems like the whole car shakes but when I either let off or push the gas more it goes away until about 50-60 mph. It also seems to do it when I set the cruise control. Anything. After sixty when I try to stay at that speed it will still shake. I have to press and release the gas to keep it from shaking. I have had the tires balanced and rotated and have had the cars spark plugs changed and the problem still continues. Do you have any suggestions.

  71. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 10, 2012 @ 7:22 am

    Josh, wheel balancing and the condition of the tires and rims are the most common cause of vibration at highway speeds. Drivetrain issues can sometimes cause a vibration at highway speeds also. During a test drive, I would momentarily slip the car into neutral at the point where the car is vibrating the most, to see if the vibration goes away. If the vibration goes away during this test, the vibration is most likely caused from something in the engine, transmission or differential. If the vibration does not go away during the test, the vibration is likely caused by the condition of the wheels and tires. Good Luck.

  72. Cameron :

    Date: June 30, 2012 @ 7:20 pm

    I have a 98 grand marquis and every time I push on tha gas there is a rattling noise and I’ll let go of the gas and it stops and push it again and it starts rattling.

  73. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 1, 2012 @ 4:47 pm

    Cameron, I would check the catalytic converter (could be loose inside). Good Luck.

  74. Amber :

    Date: July 23, 2012 @ 10:14 am

    When I turn my vehcile on it will shake and the engine revs while in park and drive. I do not want to drive it i feel its unsafe. I am not sure how I should fix it. It is a 2001 Dodge grand caravan

  75. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 23, 2012 @ 10:20 am

    Amber, I would check for fault codes and look for possible vacuum leaks. Good Luck.

  76. Dennis :

    Date: July 25, 2012 @ 12:38 am

    Hi , I have a 2003 toyota corolla , after washing inside the engine ,the engine began to shake so i took it to the mech , he said it was the spark plug so i changed the spark plug but the engine still shakes when I stop in a traffic and it’s at drive , to stop it from shaking I will have to put it at Neutral. What could be the cause , ?I have tried everything possible to stop it.. Thanks

  77. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 25, 2012 @ 6:35 am

    It’s common to have a misfire after washing the engine. Especially with engines that have spark plug wells that are deep and perpendicular, they naturally hold water when you spray the top of the engine. This sometimes shorts out the electrical connection between the coil/spark plug wire and the spark plug. Sometimes it cracks the spark plug and other times it ruins the coil if it’s the COP (Coil Over Plug) Type. I would scan to see which cylinder has the misfire – it may take several drive cycles for a code to set. A pending code may be read sooner. Then I would make sure everything is dry and recheck. The spark plug is the most common fault after being drenched, although the coil is second most common. Good Luck.

  78. David :

    Date: July 28, 2012 @ 12:46 am

    I have a 2004 Polo TDi.It shakes when on idling mode or running below 6Okm/h.It has CEL alarm.

  79. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 28, 2012 @ 7:27 am

    Davis, the CEL means there’s a fault code stored. I would scan it and see what the trouble code is for. It could be a misfire causing the shake. Good Luck.

  80. Paul :

    Date: July 30, 2012 @ 7:34 am

    Hi. I recently drove into a deep pot hole on the road covered with water. After I drove out, the car was vibrating excessively and has been that way. I noticed though that one propeller blade of the A/C fan had broken. Could this be the problem or could there be something else?

  81. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 30, 2012 @ 7:47 am

    Paul, a normal size pot hole with no water can bend rim pretty easily causing a vibration while driving. Going into deep enough water to reach the plastic fan blades, as you have found out can definitely break a blade causing a bad vibration anytime the fan is on. That means you don’t have to be driving to feel that vibration. The fan motor will fail prematurely unless the blade is replaced. If there’s still a vibration while driving down the highway after the blade is fixed I would take a close look at the condition of the rims and tires. Good Luck.

  82. Paul :

    Date: July 30, 2012 @ 10:26 am

    Thanks for your prompt response. I intend to check out the fan aspect. I dont suspect the rims and tires because the vibration is seriously on even when the car is not in motion.

  83. chirag :

    Date: August 6, 2012 @ 7:53 pm

    Hi, I have a 95 Toyota Camry. When I crank the engine and it’s in park, it shakes. Also at red lights when I stop or brake it also starts to shake when its completely at a stop. If the a/c is during a turn or a red light, sometimes it stops completely. I checked with mechanic he said it needs a tune up, I had him do it. I paid $150 he changed everything spark plugs gas filter too. but after a month I have the same problem. When I drove back to him he says it could be a distributor problem. So what could it be EXACTLY?

  84. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 7, 2012 @ 7:17 am

    Chirag, a 1995 doesn’t have OBD II so a check engine light may not as helpful as it could be. On Board Diagnostics Two does self checks to help diagnose issues. However, with any car I would check for trouble codes. I would also check the compression on all cylinders in case it’s a mechanical issue. If there’s a big difference in compression in the cylinders, no tune up parts will make the car run correctly.

    In your case, since the tune up seemed to help for awhile, I suspect it’s not a mechanical issue with the rings or valves. It’s possible that a common problem with the Camry’s distributor could be the cause – an internal oil leak into it. Sometimes those distributors leak oil inside the distributor cap and can cause shorting. When the mechanic changed the distributor cap and rotor, he probably cleaned out the oily residue thinking there was just a slow seepage into that area. Once you drove the car awhile, the oil may have leaked back in and caused shorting of the electrical contact points inside the new distributor cap. I would have him check for evidence of oil on the inside of the new distributor cap. If the distributor internal o-ring is allowing oil inside, it will need to be replaced. Good Luck.

  85. Rudzani :

    Date: August 27, 2012 @ 12:47 am

    Hi. I drive seat Ibiza 2008 model. When starting it vibrate for about 5 to 10secs then stops. I want to know if I should worry about it or not

  86. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 27, 2012 @ 7:00 am

    Rudzani, I would check the throttle plates and clean them. If there was a serious fault on a 2008, the check engine light would come on and you would be directed to the problem. Good Luck.

  87. Mike :

    Date: September 12, 2012 @ 12:34 pm

    1998 5.9 grand cherokee 46RE transmission

    Hi Dennis

    I have a shaking motor that I cannot diagnose. It seems to have started suddenly after I changed the power steering fluid. It ran fine before that all week. I can feel it right when I start it up. There is a shake/shudder through the motor. If I rev it it also shakes. It does this in neutral, drive, and park. I can feel is most when I’m driving at lower speeds. It smoothes out as I speed up. Transmission shifts normally.

    Things I have checked
    IAC
    TPS
    MAF
    repaired plenum gasket
    valve cover gaskets
    Checked and recheck for vacuum leaks
    checked both 02 sensors by unplugging one at a time and starting motor
    Pulled each plug wire while motor is running to listen for any changes.
    scanned for codes, none found
    cleaned computer connections
    installed new injectors I had laying around. No change
    Changed out coil
    tested battery and alt with multimeter
    used seafoam through the brake booster line
    wiggled all of the wires
    pulled the belt off to inspect balancer started it up with no belt, same condition
    new cap and rotor with new cam sensor
    put the old sensor back in just incase, no change.
    Inspected motor mounts while revving motor and although they are not in the best shape there was no excessive movement.
    same with trans mount. No movement from tranny when revved.

    I really don’t know what else to check and feel like shooting it lol. Any ideas?

    Mike

  88. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 12, 2012 @ 1:00 pm

    Wow Mike, you’ve been busy. Air in the power steering system would usually only cause a shudder when turning. If there was a misfire you should have a trouble/fault code stored. A compression test would show how closely balanced the cylinders are. A variation of more than 10% between the cylinders may not cause a code but may cause vibration. I might also clean the throttle plates with a brush and FI spray cleaner, just in case the seafoam didn’t reach them through the vacuum line. Also, “collapsed” motor mounts can definitely cause a vibration all the time. They don’t have to have a lot of play in them, to cause a vibration. Good Luck.

  89. Mike :

    Date: September 12, 2012 @ 1:09 pm

    Thanks. Intake is spotless along with the TB. I just went to the parts store and it’s pretty rough at low speeds but it’s still there at higher too. I noticed that when I let off the accelerator the vibes are still there and then ease off when there is less load to the motor. Since nothing I have done has effected the shake in any way, I am starting to think yes, it could be the MM. Can a motor mount go bad all of a sudden though?

  90. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 12, 2012 @ 1:18 pm

    I wouldn’t say a motor mount would collapse all at once. With the exception of a liquid filled one that springs a leak and collapses quickly due to that. However, once a mount gets worn to a certain point you no longer have that “insulation” quality any longer. In some very severe cases it could get down to metal on metal.

  91. Mike :

    Date: September 12, 2012 @ 1:50 pm

    Ok well thanks for all your suggestions. I rechecked the MM and they do look worse than I thought. I was really getting on it after the plenum repair to feel the power. I suppose that could have done one or both of them in so by the time I started it back up later that day they could have sunk.

    Thanks

    MIke

  92. TAMEKA :

    Date: September 12, 2012 @ 3:32 pm

    My engine is shaking , cylinder 1 4 6 keeps misfiring. Thought it was the catalytic convertor but was not. As I drove back home it started making a rattling noise. What could it be.? And it jerks more when I hit the gas.
    Changed the spark plugs too.
    98 grand marquis.

  93. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 12, 2012 @ 3:44 pm

    Tameka, fix the misfires and more than likely the vibration will go away. It jerks more upon acceleration because there’s more of a load on the engine. Misfires can be caused by low compression, spark plugs, coils, injectors etc. Good Luck.

  94. Quadarius :

    Date: September 27, 2012 @ 6:41 pm

    I have 1999 Grand Marquis and the engine shakes and I just replaced the throttle position sensor and I just got an oil change could it be something serious.

  95. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 27, 2012 @ 6:44 pm

    I would check for codes and do a compression test and go from there. Good Luck.

  96. jack :

    Date: October 1, 2012 @ 2:41 am

    I own toyota allion D4 engine year 2004. The engine overheated and I refaced the head and fitted it back. It car worked well with enough power for sometimes but suddenly it started vibrating so much when am on drive or reverse mode. What could be the possible causes of this problem?

  97. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 1, 2012 @ 10:46 am

    Jack, if I had just had the cylinder head off and had running issues like you’ve described; I would re-check my work paying particularly close attention to the timing. Sound’s like it could be off a tooth or two. Touble codes may help also – expect multiple misfire codes P0300 series.

  98. mary :

    Date: October 14, 2012 @ 11:01 am

    i have a 2005 ford focus zx4. when i start it up it vibrates, but after heating up, it quits. it doesn’t vibrate anymore and runs fine. any help i can get on this?

  99. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 14, 2012 @ 11:59 am

    Mary, it could be as simple as needing a tune up or the engine could be burning a little oil. I would examine the plugs to see if there’s any indication of oil burning. You may already know if you have to add oil between oil changes. If it’s not burning oil, I would try a tune up and throttle plate service. Good Luck.

  100. molly :

    Date: October 19, 2012 @ 7:00 pm

    I have a 2001 toyota carolla and it shakes when idling and the check engine light blinks when my rpms reach over 3000. When they ran my car yhe codea showrd misfires and an o2 sensor. Idk what this means. I also have some type of creaking coming from the front right side of my car. Could you help me out?

  101. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 20, 2012 @ 7:32 am

    Molly, misfiring can be caused by many things. Spark plugs, coils or spark plug wires are some of the most common. The technician will need to determine the cause of the misfiring cylinders for you. The codes only help him zero in on the problem. This should be repaired quickly because the “flashing” check engine light means that damage can be done to the catalytic converter quickly. I would fix the misfire codes first and recheck, to see if the Oxygen sensor code returns or not. The creaking noise could be a suspension or steering issue. A separate problem. Good Luck.

  102. Kia :

    Date: October 20, 2012 @ 5:14 pm

    hi, I have a 2001 mitsubishi diamante, I recently replaced my distributior cap, rotors, spark plugs and wires, fuel pump and filter. my car started to vibrate and shake.. after i have done all of this. when you lift my hood you can see the whole engine shakes. please help me I don’t know what else to do after this.

  103. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 20, 2012 @ 8:04 pm

    Kia, sounds like the timing is off. It’s likely that you have installed a couple of the spark plug wires in the wrong positions. I would recheck the firing order. Good Luck.

  104. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 21, 2012 @ 3:01 am

    Charles, The cause could be many many things. I would check for trouble codes to narrow down the possibilities. Good Luck.

  105. Charles :

    Date: October 21, 2012 @ 2:01 pm

    i am driving passat 2001 model and had fitted another engine. petrol comsuption is very high, it stop idling when i come to traffic lights or when i turn. it doesnt have power. someone said it must be the turbocharger.please advice me.

  106. Kia :

    Date: October 21, 2012 @ 5:40 pm

    mr. Dennis, I really want to thank you for responding to me, I’m getting teary eyes because I’ve paid a mechanic over $600.00 dollars and he have yet to fix my car, I’m told that I need to by a gasket intake???…. and that will for sure stop the vibration. is or would that be necessary to do? the mechanic also told me to by a timing tensioner which I did as well, and once again the vibration continues…. I would really apreciate if you can assist me further more, I’m physically, emotionally, and financially DRAINED!

  107. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 22, 2012 @ 12:07 pm

    Kia, you previously said the shaking started after work was performed. While it is possible for the intake to start leaking at anytime, I would recheck my work if I replaced the distributor and all of a sudden the engine shakes horribly. Good Luck.

  108. walt :

    Date: October 27, 2012 @ 12:05 pm

    Ford focus 2003 – 120k miles. No miss… no codes… vibrates badly when reved or cold and idling high… water pump bearings appear slightly worn… could that b problem? I think could b pump in conjunction w worn motor mount.. your thoughts?

  109. walt :

    Date: October 27, 2012 @ 12:08 pm

    Harmonic balancer seems ok… problem is all the time

  110. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 28, 2012 @ 8:06 am

    Walt, sounds like you’re on the right track. Good Luck.

  111. John :

    Date: November 2, 2012 @ 8:09 pm

    I have a 2006 toyota, when I get near 3000 RPM the engine revs but the acceleration is slow; it eventually catches up. I am also having a problem with a vibrating/jumping of the front end while accelerating hard. If I don’t accelerate hard it doesnt happen. I tried back/forward power braking with no noise. turning and backing with the wheels banked does not make a noise. I am try ing to determine is it a motor mount or a clutch throw out bearing. How do I test each

  112. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 3, 2012 @ 7:54 am

    John, the fact that the engine RPM’s go up to 3000 and the vehicle accelerates slowly until finally catching up; seems like the clutch is slipping. So this is the first problem, which means the clutch is worn out. When the transmission is removed and the clutch disc & pressure plate are changed, install a new throw out bearing too. Make sure there’s no oil leaks that might contaminate the clutch disc. Rear of the valve cover or rear main seal are possible things that oil leaks could come from. Leaks could ruin a new clutch in no time. Also take the flywheel to have it machined before going back together with it. Good Luck.

  113. Tom :

    Date: November 18, 2012 @ 6:30 pm

    1982 Chevy C-10 with a 1973 307, Turbo 350. Vibration at it’s worst betweetn 45-50 mph (sorry, no tach). Vibration is not steady, but has a rhythm that increases in frequency with RPM. Seldom noticed in the summer, but when weather cools, it gets worse. Thought it was harmonic balancer, but a shop swapped it out with no improvement. Same shop said they disconnected torque convertor and vibration remained. Motor runs great. I’ve driven it 21K miles. My thought is when it blows up, I’ll know then.

  114. Mike :

    Date: November 26, 2012 @ 7:57 am

    I have an 81 jeep cj5 4 cylinder 151. While driving at 50mph I felt a slight vibration in the steering wheel and in the seat. I immediately brought the jeep home to check it. The vibration continued while at idle, in gear, or in neutral (manual transmission). I visually checked harmonic balancer and motor mount. Replaced spark plugs, distributor, coil, electronics in distributor, and set timing to factory specks. I also took off the valve cover to check for any damage to the valves, rocker arms, push rods, etc. After doing all this the vibration has worsened although if I run the timing a little more advanced than factory settings the vibration lessens slightly. About 200 miles ago I installed a redline Weber carburetor. 12 months ago I rebuilt transmission, put in new rear seal, clutch plate, transmission mount, 4 u joints, and twin shifters on the crank case. Engine is original with 104k miles. Also, added fuel regulator when I installed the Weber carb. It’s set at 4 psi. After I installed the new carb the jeep was running like it was brand new. Plenty of power, quick response, and better gas mileage. With the vibration it has a loss of horsepower but it’s not misfiring. Vibration increases with rpms and is more violent with higher rpms in first and second gears.

  115. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 26, 2012 @ 8:26 am

    Mike, sounds like a misfire (especially since the vibration increases with more load). I would check the compression in all cylinders. Look for more than a 10 percent difference between cylinders which could cause a vibration. Good Luck.

  116. Foster :

    Date: December 4, 2012 @ 5:53 am

    Dennis
    I have Toyota Camry 04 automatic transmission each time I spake it I can hear a vibration in the engine and the when I try moving it from first to second gear I can also here the body vibration so please what might it be?

  117. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 4, 2012 @ 7:52 am

    Foster, thanks for the comment. Not sure what you meant by spake? Also vibrations can be felt but not heard. Regardless, it’s really impossible for me to diagnose a noise without experiencing it for myself while driving. You may want to have a local mechanic drive it and offer an opinion.

    Good Luck

  118. Luke :

    Date: December 7, 2012 @ 2:02 am

    Hi dennis,
    I have a 2009 kia rio automatic. Recently as I was driving home from work the check engine light came on and the car started to vibrate whenever I press on the accelerator. I had the ac on defogging the windows all the way home on my twenty minute drive. This happened once before also when I was defogging the windows but when I shut the car off for a while and turned it back on the check engine light went off and the vibrations ceased. Any ideas? Thanks for the help :)

  119. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 7, 2012 @ 6:20 am

    Luke, possibly a misfire under extra load. The Check Engine Light is the first clue. I would check the stored trouble code and go from there. Good Luck.

  120. Mike :

    Date: December 17, 2012 @ 11:47 pm

    I recently ran my 96 ford bronco out of oil for probably a good 5-10 minutes, going over 3500 RPM, and i got some serious vibrations and light smoke through my air vents, before i panic’d and turned it off. Then overfilled the oil, still having vibrations plus white smoke out the exhaust. Drained the oil to the full line on dip stick, but still have vibrations and white smoke.. too scared to drive it, absolutely no vibrations before today.. What should i do, to fix vibraiton and smoke?

  121. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 18, 2012 @ 6:58 am

    Mike, the oil has to burn off (that’s the smoke). If the engine has been damaged, it’s too late to do anything about it now. I would make sure the oil level is at the correct level and drive it. See what happens. Good Luck.

  122. Angel :

    Date: December 18, 2012 @ 12:21 pm

    I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 45K mileage. Lately, its engine vibrates after an overnight parking when put on reverse and on initial drive but hardly noticeable when idling after some distance of continous driving. What seems to cause the vibration? Thanks..

  123. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 18, 2012 @ 12:44 pm

    Angel, since it doesn’t seem to vibrate after it warms up I would suspect a running issue rather than motor mounts. Perhaps you could describe the problem to you local repair shop and have them keep it overnight so they can experience the issue upon first start up when cold. Good Luck.

  124. eddy kb :

    Date: December 19, 2012 @ 5:23 am

    My car vibrating when it u drivite what can be the problem

  125. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 19, 2012 @ 6:18 am

    Eddy, without driving it myself or having more specific details, it’s very hard to say. The most common cause of a vibration when just driving down the road at highway speeds us usually from the wheel balancing, the condition of the tires or having bent rims. I would take the car to a local shop and have someone drive it. Usually you’d be able to get a free opinion and go from there. Good Luck.

  126. Tank :

    Date: December 20, 2012 @ 7:15 pm

    Hey Dennis, thanks for this page… Got a 2007 PT Cruiser, and I just replaced the radiator. After the job was done, got a CEL and a mild vibration under decel from 70mph down…The further I went, the worse it got, until it’s now almost constant while the engine is under load…any ideas? Thanks.

  127. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 20, 2012 @ 7:18 pm

    Tank, could have been something left disconnected. I would scan for the code and that should direct you to the problem. Good Luck.

  128. yolanda :

    Date: December 21, 2012 @ 10:07 pm

    OK Dennis my brother’s name is Dennis too. Now when I’m driving and if I turn the car right the car will have a vibration kind of shake. It doesn’t make any noise at all and turn straight while driving it still has a little vibration it feels like it in the front wheels. As you drive it, it will stop could you answer that for me and understand what I’m saying?

  129. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 22, 2012 @ 8:28 am

    Yolanda, you may want to have a local mechanic drive the car and offer an opinion. Sounds like there may be a bad CV (constant velocity) 1/2 shaft. Front wheel drives may experience a shudder if the joints are worn. If it was a bad tire, rim or a balance problem it may be worse at certain speeds but would not be worse on turns. Good Luck.

  130. Becky :

    Date: December 22, 2012 @ 9:26 pm

    I have a Mercury Villager, 2002.. we have had a slight shaking in the vehicle at 50-70 mph. We were told this happens because of tire problems. Replaced all four and still had shaking. Shaking was worse in the back and I could feel it in the seat, indicating a problem in the back, I have been told. Tires have been balanced and rebalanced a half dozen times and finally was found that two were out of round. We have since replaced all four tires with new, higher grade tires and when I left the shop, the van STILL SHAKES. Drums on the back have been replaced, rotors on the front have been replaced. This evening the GM of Firestone came outside and did the power braking experiment and the motor almost jumped out of the van! The establishment was closing so I will be going back tomorrow but asI drove home i thought the vibration actually WAS coming from the front… my question is, the vehicle doesn’t shake or vibrate at idle so is it the motor mount causing the vibration at 60mph??? We are leaving Monday for a 5000 mile round trip in this vehicle…. sigh…

  131. Becky :

    Date: December 22, 2012 @ 9:29 pm

    PS, all rims have been checked and one slightly bent one was also replaced prior to the four new tires today.

  132. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 23, 2012 @ 9:11 am

    Becky, It’s possible that one of the rear drums is out of balance. They can be spun on the wheel balancer to check.

    While driving the vehicle at 50-70 I would slip the gear selector to neutral (and turn the ignition off) momentarily. This eliminates the possibility of the motor, mounts and drive-train as being the cause if the vibration persists. If it goes away during this test, this test eliminates the possibility of the vibration being caused by the rims, tires, brake drums etc. Good Luck.

  133. Becky :

    Date: December 23, 2012 @ 4:10 pm

    Did your test… the shaking is not impacted by putting the vehicle in neutral… we are leaving Christmas day and I am very close to tears…. we had the engine mount replaced today and that did tighten things up but the shaking persists…. please help….

  134. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 23, 2012 @ 6:12 pm

    Becky, don’t let a little vibration ruin your plans. This can be addressed later if need be. Good Luck.

  135. Nathan :

    Date: December 27, 2012 @ 6:08 pm

    I have an 02 Chrysler 300m, there are no engine lights but when I start to reach about 40 or so you can feel it start to vibrate and it gets worse as you keep accelerating. Also as you accelerate there is an increasingly loud noise in the cabin that sounds like it is coming from the tires but they are practically brand new… any ideas? Thanks.

  136. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 28, 2012 @ 6:59 am

    Nathan, hard to say without actually driving it but I would suspect wheel hub bearings. If the noise changes when turning back and forth slightly while driving this is also an indication that it could be the bearings. Good Luck.

  137. Marcos :

    Date: January 1, 2013 @ 11:33 pm

    I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey , when i turn on the engine it begins to shake violently to the point the RPM’s drop so low that the engine shuts down. What could be the problem?

  138. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 2, 2013 @ 7:03 am

    Marcos, This could be a thousand different things; But, I would start by pulling trouble/fault codes and look for possible vacuum leaks or fresh air intake leaks before the Mass Air Flow Sensor and go from there. Good Luck

  139. Tim :

    Date: January 5, 2013 @ 3:19 pm

    Dennis,
    I have a 2001 Nissan Sentra SE with a 2.0 4 cylinder. It vibrates quite a bit at startup, but later calms down. It also vibrates heavily when put in reverse, moving slowly forward, or when decelerating. It doesn’t seem to vibrate at normal running speeds. I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and pcv valve. I know it uses a little oil as I get a little smoke from the tail pipe at startup. It has recently been in an accident and the symptoms weren’t noticed until after we got the car back. I haven’t checked the motor or transmission mounts yet, but was wondering if I should check anything else besides what is currently on this post.
    Thanks

  140. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 5, 2013 @ 4:46 pm

    Tim, Oil burning can definitely cause rough running upon first start up and can foul the plugs out quickly. In an impact the motor mounts can be damaged also. Good Luck.

  141. shamim :

    Date: January 21, 2013 @ 5:23 am

    Dennis,
    I have bought ford explorer 2005 4*4 3 weeks back; now for 2 days I am getting problem of vibration on idle (ie on starting & while stop on signals), & there are also occasional missing while driving.
    I am looking forward to you for suggestions to correct this problem.
    Thanks

  142. Jason :

    Date: January 24, 2013 @ 2:34 pm

    I have a 2004 chevy trailblazer. The other day I stopped at the store to get a drink and shut the vehicle off. When starting it back up i instantly felt a weird vibration. It will vibrate off and on at a low speed,when putting it in reverse and when I rev it up to 1,500 rps it feels like a cylinder is misfiring. No warning lights have came on. I took it to the shop and they yanked up and down on the fan that’s connected to the water pump and the is quite a bit of play but its not leaking. The mechanic said he is 90% sure that’s what the problem is. Is it possible for the engine to vibrate like that with a loose water pump?

  143. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 24, 2013 @ 2:58 pm

    Yes. If it’s loose it needs to be replaced regardless; however you could immobilize it (with an old radiator hose or something similar) temporarily. And feel for the vibration to help make sure that’s the problem. Don’t run it too long or you’ll overheat the engine. Good Luck.

  144. Abbey :

    Date: February 3, 2013 @ 9:49 pm

    Hi, I noticed the check engine light on my corolla 2005 dashboard. I removed and replaced the battery head. It cleared but the vehicle is engine is really vibrating. This is first time this is happening and am really scared. Pls what can I do?

  145. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 4, 2013 @ 6:27 am

    Abbey, clearing the code with a code reader or by disconnecting the battery does nothing to solve the problem. It only make the the clue go away. When the CEL (Check Engine Light) comes back on, I would scan for the trouble code and go from there. Could be a misfire caused by a bad coil or spark plug etc. We can only guess until the code sets again. Good Luck.

  146. Sif :

    Date: February 6, 2013 @ 9:51 am

    Hi, I have a 2009 audi A5 2.0 TFSi auto with 30k. When I am in drive, stopped and release the brake pedal, the car judders with no rpm drop. Otherwise, no symptoms and it drives fine. What could it be? Thanks.

  147. Sif :

    Date: February 6, 2013 @ 9:52 am

    Ps. Judder lasts just a couple of seconds, then ok.

  148. Sif :

    Date: February 6, 2013 @ 9:55 am

    Ops. No issues when in neutral.

  149. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 6, 2013 @ 10:15 am

    Would really have to test drive to feel for myself. But, could just be friction from brakes when releasing.

  150. Titembe :

    Date: February 8, 2013 @ 11:39 am

    Hi, I drive a 2007 toyota corolla Manual transmission.
    I notice my car sometimes shakes when i switch from 1st to 2nd. This only happens when I am at this switch. whenever I apply slightly more gas to the pedal during my clutch release there is no hint of vibration.

    The vibration feels as though I an releasing the clutch author enough gas and the car shakes as though it’s about to stall.

    Any advice is appreciated

  151. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 8, 2013 @ 11:46 am

    Possible clutch or transmission issue. I would ride it out until it gets a little worse and easier to diagnose. Then take it to a shop for a mechanic to drive and offer an opinion. Good Luck.

  152. Rodney Williamson :

    Date: February 8, 2013 @ 5:24 pm

    I have a 1991 Chevy s10 4.3. It has a vibration. I have changed to the three u-joints, carrier bearing, transmission mount, motor mounts, all new wires, plugs, cap,rotor, bug,new distributor. I can not get rid of that vibration!!! Now the truck only has 113,000 miles…it set in a barn for five years. Do you think its the harmonic balancer?Oh yea I also have four brand new tires and had them rechecked for balancing.

  153. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 8, 2013 @ 5:41 pm

    Vibrations can be caused by engine mis-balance condition (compression from cylinder to cylinder being within 10% respectively), condition of the tires and wheels, brake shake from warped rotors or out of round drums, drive train related issues like worn mounts, worn u-joints, the harmonic balancer rubber can detiorate and come out, imbalanced flywheels and many other things; I would take it to a mechanic that can test drive it to determine when the vibration occurs. To see if it vibrates when sitting still, if it stops when the engine is momentarily turned off while driving, while upon acceleration, when braking, particular speeds or other conditions etc. The mechanic will most likely be able to point you in the right direction after experiencing the vibration first hand. Good Luck

  154. Rodney Williamson :

    Date: February 9, 2013 @ 1:09 pm

    Thank you. I will let you know what happens. I really like your thought about turning the motor off while driving to see if the vibrations stops!Again thank you!

  155. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 9, 2013 @ 4:38 pm

    Rodney, just be careful because of there will be no power steering or power brakes during the momentary test.

  156. Tiffany :

    Date: February 12, 2013 @ 2:28 pm

    I have a 2004 chevy trailblazer has 164xxx when getting to the speed of 50 plus mph it jerks what could this possibly be?

  157. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 12, 2013 @ 2:36 pm

    Could be many many things. I would take it to a local mechanic that can test drive and evaluate the problem. Good Luck.

  158. Tiffany :

    Date: February 12, 2013 @ 2:41 pm

    thanks. we know it needs a new manifold we have a bad exhaust
    leak and the manifold is cracked. but we didnt know if that could cause it or not.

  159. roger :

    Date: March 29, 2013 @ 3:34 pm

    date march 29 2013. .I havea saab95 1-9tid est.when ireach acertain speed limp home mode occurs.tried new injector,egr valve,still vibrates.is flywheel last resort.

  160. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 29, 2013 @ 3:40 pm

    I would scan for trouble codes and go from there. Good Luck.

  161. gene :

    Date: April 1, 2013 @ 2:06 am

    have a 2000 dakota with a 2.5 motor starts fine and runs fine then starts to die then picks back up again. then runs fine then tries to die again then picks up again. every once in a while it dies,but starts up again. have replaced timing gear. ran ok for a while then started again. is this the chain tensioner or map sensor?

  162. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 1, 2013 @ 6:26 am

    With no CEL (Check Engine Light) I would check the battery first. Marginal batteries (ones that are on the verge of failing completely) can wreak havoc with a vehicles computer. I would also look at cleaning or replacing the IAC (Idle Air Control) motor. I wouldn’t have any reason to think the timing or map sensor would be at fault. Good Luck.

  163. paula :

    Date: April 19, 2013 @ 9:45 am

    o1 mitsubishi diamante changed timing belt and all gaskets under hood all pulleys spark plug wires and plugs when was done the car sounded like it had a vacum leak we checked the pugs and they were fowled so we put in new ones and the car is sounding the same any clue on what could be wrong?

  164. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 19, 2013 @ 9:53 am

    Paula, I would check the fuel trim using a scan tool to see if the car truly has a vacuum leak. The power steering pump sometimes sounds like a vacuum leak when operating. Also, sometimes just air entering the intake may sound like a leak. So it’s important to verify a real problem first. “All gaskets” may imply that the entire engine was taken out and resealed. If so there are many things to recheck that could have been installed improperly. If there’s really a vacuum leak I would check with a smoke machine to quickly pinpoint the leak. Good Luck.

  165. wayne :

    Date: May 4, 2013 @ 10:10 am

    hi dennis i have a problem 93 toyota landcruiser 4.5ltr 6 cyl efi the car has developed a vibration between 900rpm to1200 rpm worst at 1050rpm have checked for air leaks non found have replaced hamonic balancer no change it also seems to be about 10 mins after the car has been started its there in gear in netural just all the time ive checked the fan by stoping the rotation it didnt change any thing please help its driving me nuts as im a mechinic and this has stumped me and a few others

  166. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 5, 2013 @ 8:49 am

    Wayne, as you already know, some vibrations can be very difficult to pinpoint. Imbalanced cylinders can cause vibrations if there’s more than 10% variation between them (determined by doing a compression test). That would be more of a constant though. I’ve also seen torque converters cause vibration, but this would most likely get worse at higher RPM’s.

    I would clean the throttle body and IAC (Idle Air Control) to see if that makes a difference. I would also notice if the AC compressor is kicking on when the vibration starts (the AC doesn’t necessarily have to be turned on for it to cycle on to assist with defrost). It could be a combination of extra drag form the compressor and worn motor mounts. Good Luck.

  167. Ronnie :

    Date: May 7, 2013 @ 6:51 pm

    Hi Im Ronnie, I have a 2008 nissian altima. 4cy. When I press the gas to go it vibrate, when I turn right are left it vibrate, and when I put the AC on it does it more. I took it to the shop and they notice I a exhaust leak so I remove and replace the catalytic converter and it is still vibrating. Im stress out and dont know what to do. I own the vechile, it has no warranty, and it only has 57858 miles on it.

  168. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 7, 2013 @ 6:59 pm

    Ronnie, could be as simple as a misfire, but just not enough information to go on. If I were there I would drive it and point you in the right direction. Without more info gained from test driving scanning for data and codes etc, I cannot offer an informed opinion. Most shops will test drive the car and give you an opinion. Good luck.

  169. Chris :

    Date: May 9, 2013 @ 10:31 am

    I have a 2004 chevy trailblazer 4.2 liter engine. It runs rough when I stop at a stoplight or stop sign, Also something seem like it is loose in the front end, I was told maybe the harmonic balancer????

  170. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 9, 2013 @ 2:52 pm

    Chris it could be a harmonic balancer. But, on your vehicle the water pump becoming loose from worn bearings is very common. Test when engine is off by grabbing the fan blade and seeing if it has excessive movement when pushing front to back. Several years ago I’ve replaced several that would shake the entire vehicle. Good Luck.

  171. guze :

    Date: May 22, 2013 @ 1:48 am

    My 2004 Avensis losses power, it idles at about 1000rpm but when AC is on, it reduces to 600rpm and when moving after a stop, it reduces to about 400rpm and almost stalling, it also gives a rattling sound when moving at about 2000rpm and above. It consumes a lot of fuel too

  172. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 22, 2013 @ 7:46 am

    Guze, I would scan for codes, check the battery, check fuel pressure etc. If there’s a code stored or pending, the computer may be trying to tell you something. If the battery is marginal it can wreak havoc on a vehicle’s computer system that relies heavily on correct voltage readings from sensors. If the fuel pressure is low it may not set a code but could cause drive-ability issues. Good Luck.

  173. guze :

    Date: May 23, 2013 @ 12:00 pm

    Update::
    I have scanned and I got that primary coil A and B faulty. I have replaced the faulty coils and problem still persists. A friend suggested opening the cylinder to check the valves in those two positions. Could he be correct?

  174. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 23, 2013 @ 1:16 pm

    Guze, the Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction (Code P0351, if on the #1 cylinder) is an electrical circuit issue NOT a mechanical issue with the engine. If there was a valve issue or low compression for some reason there would be a misfire code but not a P035_ series code. Possible causes may be a short to voltage or ground on COP (Coil Over Plug) driver circuit. An open circuit for the COP driver. Possibly a loose electrical connection at or between the coil and the computer or finally a bad PCM (Powertrain Control Module) aka vehicle’s computer. If you have replaced the coil for the correct cylinder, the coil has been eliminated as possible cause. Could have just swapped two on the car to see if the code moved. Typically there will be two wires going to each coil, one is constant voltage and the other provides ground on demand from the computer. Some cars have fuses for each coil, so I would check that if there’s no voltage to the particular coil. *Caution when checking for voltage it’s best to use a tester that doesn’t pierce the insulation around the wire.

  175. guze :

    Date: May 23, 2013 @ 2:40 pm

    Thanks. What about the rattling sound at 2000rpm and above?

  176. guze :

    Date: May 23, 2013 @ 3:45 pm

    Plus my rpm needle is jumping

  177. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 23, 2013 @ 3:50 pm

    Guze, once the problem that causes the code for the coil is fixed those problems will most likely be solved. Good Luck.

  178. guze :

    Date: May 27, 2013 @ 7:24 am

    Update::
    Thanks a lot Dennis. The problem has been resolved. The car idles @ 600rpm without ac and 800rpm with ac. Idling is smooth and steady.
    Solution::
    I changed the 8 valves under cylinder 1 and 2 after I discovered they look a bit worn and not lapping properly.

  179. Riz :

    Date: June 3, 2013 @ 10:53 am

    I recently purchased a toyota camry 1997. I got that car from the dealer, the car was not in a use for 2 months. I immediately changed the battery and engine oil. But after getting it home the next day I felt a vibration on acceleration. The car is drives normally but with a lot of vibration. There is no check engine light indication. When I checked the dog bolt mount on front left side of the engine I saw it was cracked badly. The other problem is up and down movement of rpm, the engine vibrates badly and also producing tur tur tur noise coming from the front left below side of the engine….(maybe due to worn engine mount) please help me with the possible reasons.

  180. Hubert :

    Date: June 5, 2013 @ 8:33 am

    My 2004 Lincoln Aviator engine shakes, the check engine light is on too, could you help me out? My spark plugs have been changed!

  181. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 5, 2013 @ 9:11 am

    Hubert Spark plugs are not the only cause of a misfire, which is what you probably have. I would scan to see what the CEL (Check Engine Light) is on for. The code provided will very likely lead to the cause of the running and vibration issue. Good Luck.

  182. Tito :

    Date: June 14, 2013 @ 4:53 am

    I have a toyota vitz 1000cc, Recently the car started to have engine vibration s when at Neutral and Drive. When I am at a travel jam that moves slowly the car looses power to a point of failing to move up hill even wen I press the whole pedal to the max. When it is at a speed of 70 and above the car performs well. I replaced the spark plugs and cleaned the throttle. What could be the problem?

  183. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 14, 2013 @ 7:28 am

    Tito, cars that are newer than 1996 models have OBD II self monitoring for trouble codes. I would scan for codes to see if any faults are stored. Clogged catalytic converters can cause bogging and transmissions can cause similar issues too. If there are no codes, there’s nothing to go on. In that case I would take the car to a technician that can see, hear, drive and perform tests in person. Good Luck.

  184. Raheel :

    Date: June 24, 2013 @ 6:01 am

    Hi. I bought Lexus ES 2005. Sometime engine vibrates while driving until I switch off my car for sometimes. There will be no viberation after after restart.
    When I switch on AC, there is a noise from cooling fan side. Cooling fan is working properly and temperature of the car is also normal when AC is on. The problem is suddenly engine starts little vibration while driving. When the vibration starts it will keep on until I switch off my car for sometimes. Kindly advise.

  185. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 24, 2013 @ 7:34 am

    Raheel, if there are no trouble (fault) codes stored and motor mounts are all good, the vibration is slight, this could be normal. The vehicle’s computer will enrich the fuel mixture at first upon start up. After the car is running the fuel is trimmed down to allow the car to run more lean, therefore increasing efficiency and fuel mileage. The manufacturer’s could have the computer run smoother but that would sacrifice better gas mileage. It is a compromise. The cooling fan is powered by a motor and it’s normal for it to make a sound. If it’s excessive the motor would need to be replaced. Good Luck.

  186. sophie :

    Date: June 25, 2013 @ 9:20 am

    Hi I have a Japanese Nissan primera, I just had some transmission work done on my car that was parked for 5 months. Also had the spark plugs changed but not sure if the right spark plugs are in the car now. When I start the car and put it in reverse the check engine light comes on and the engine makes a heavy buffering sound and the car is vibrating. While driving the car, it does not have the force it used to have before and the car keeps on vibrating even at a stop it keeps vibrating. What can the problem be? Please help me.

  187. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 25, 2013 @ 9:42 am

    Sophie, the check engine light tells us there’s a code stored. The fault code is the best first indication of what the problem is. I would first retrieve the trouble code using a scan tool or code reader and go from there. Pulling one spark plug to verify the application is advisable since there’s a doubt the right ones were installed. Besides that there are a couple more things to consider. Since the transmission was out and rebuilt, there could be a problem with some of the work done either inside the transmission or with the quality of workmanship with the installation. Also since the car sat for 5 months, there’s a good possibility that the gas has not held up well. Gummy deposits from old gas can restrict gas flow in carburetors and also in fuel injectors. That’s why it’s a good idea to use as gas stabilizer in any engine that’s not going to be used for an extended period of time. That goes for lawn mowers or vehicles. It seems that ethanol in our fuel has caused more problems like this. And with talk of increasing the percentage of ethanol in our fuel the problem is not going to go away anytime soon. But to reiterate, scanning the code is your first step into diagnosing the problem Good Luck.

  188. brittany :

    Date: June 27, 2013 @ 7:12 am

    HI I have a 2008 kia rio and at first I was experiencing my ac would shut on and off by itself now I am experiencing my car vibrating alot more so when I stop at a red light spark plugs were recently changed because of a missfire of second cylinder any help on this please I dont know much about cars and could really used some one who can help me with this problem

  189. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 27, 2013 @ 8:00 am

    Brittany, I’ll assume you are still having both issues even after the spark plugs were changed. There could be two different issues or the AC could be related to the running issue. If the vehicle is misfiring bad enough to cause potential damage to the catalytic converter the CEL (Check Engine Light) will blink on and off and the computer may shut the AC off. Misfires can be caused by other things besides just spark plugs (see below). So if there’s still a misfire code that needs to be addressed and then the AC issue may be resolved too. If not the AC will need to be diagnosed separately when the problem is acting up. Below is a copy of an article I wrote on common misfires that may help. Good Luck.

    DIY Tune Up and Misfire Codes – Top 10 Misfire Causes

    Tune ups are not required on today’s vehicles nearly as often as they were in the past. Most vehicles today, no longer have distributors (with points) and carburetors. A tune up used to consist of much more than it does today, with technology and innovative design vehicles require much less attention from us when it comes to maintenance items affecting the engine’s performance. The car’s computer is running thousands of tests everyday to insure optimum performance. If the SES (Service Engine Soon) light comes on, the computer is telling you there’s a problem. Today I cover what a tune up consists of and the most common causes of misfire codes being set or stored in your car’s computer. Also, in this article read on to find out why my friend with an old Chrysler lean burn system used to carry a big stick!

    What a Tune Up Used to Be

    In cars during the 60′s and 70′s a minor tune up consisted of replacing the spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, points and condenser. The timing and dwell would also be set if needed. Back then a major tune up would also include spark plug wires and adjusting the carburetor. Computerized cars no longer need all of this attention! Electronic ignition and fuel injection in today’s cars have almost completely banished the use of distributors. And practically the only place you’ll find a carburetor is in a dinosaur or a hot rod. Today spark plugs typically last from 60 to 100,000 miles (sometimes less if there’s a misfire). Computers control the mixture of fuel and air to the cylinders so efficiently that a car that floods today, is a rare one indeed. Don’t get me wrong there were some growing pains in the 80′s with carburetors that still needed adjustment and computer systems that never really allowed some cars to run very well from day one. I had a friend with a 1980 Chrysler equipped with a lean burn system that worked in conjunction with a feedback carburetor, it caused him many headaches. The lean burn computer was mounted on the air cleaner housing. He discovered that when the car wouldn’t run, it only took a light tap on the computer to make it work again. Instead of switching back to a conventional carburetor or relocating the computer away from the heat of the engine like many people did back then; he found that carrying a stick in the car, would allow him to stand outside, reach the stick under the hood and tap the module while he turned the ignition switch to start the engine!

    Cars Today

    Misfire codes (including P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307 & P0308) indicate that there is a misfire in a cylinder, the last number indicates which cylinder has the problem. If something is causing a miss in random cylinders or is affecting all of them, a P0300 misfire code will be stored in the car’s computer. It’s always smart to begin with the basics. Also consider the mileage and service history when diagnosing a misfire. Higher mile vehicles are more inclined to have mechanical issues with the engines, like low compression from worn valves or rings etc. Any accompanying codes should also be considered in case they may be related. If the spark plugs are worn (excessive gap) or the car is past due for a tune up, it may be smart to go ahead and start with spark plugs and spark plug wires and go from there.

    The most common misfire causes on the cars I’ve worked on have been:

    Spark plugs
    Spark plug wires
    Ignition coil
    Fuel injector
    Wiring to fuel injector
    Timing Belt
    Vacuum leak or stuck open EGR
    Contaminated fuel or bad fuel pump
    Weak compression
    Blown head gasket
    Obviously there are many different types of cars, so a service manual for the specific one that you are working on may be required to help pinpoint the misfire you’re looking for, but hopefully this will direct you to some of the most common causes of misfires in cars of today.

  190. mac :

    Date: July 13, 2013 @ 7:37 am

    when I move forward with the car, at low RPM’s I can always fell a light vibration . After about 1500 rpm, at higher RPM, the ride is very smooth and I can’t fell any vibrations. It’s is very irritating to feel this vibration all the time.

    Also sometimes, not always but very often, I hear something like if the motor was a diesel. It’s also very irritating.

  191. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 13, 2013 @ 9:17 am

    Some sensation from the engine is normal. Some causes are listed in the article for excessive vibration. The fact that it makes a diesel sound indicates incorrect timing. If it were an older non computer vehicle, I would suggest checking the timing. If it was a 2000′s Ford I would suggest a new DPFE. Good Luck.

  192. cwarner10 :

    Date: July 18, 2013 @ 8:42 pm

    I have a knock in my engine you can hear when idling doesn’t get any louder when driving. My car shakes badly only when I accelerate and am going over 45 and my check engine light has come on. I have a 01 Plymouth neon what’s wrong with my car

  193. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 19, 2013 @ 8:21 am

    That’s strange because if the noise is coming from something that is reciprocating I would expect the noise to speed up or go away when the engine is spinning faster. Anyway, I would see what the Check Engine Light (CEL) is on for and go from there. Maybe use a mechanic’s stethoscope to pinpoint the noise unless the CEL explains it. Good Luck.

  194. Mike :

    Date: July 21, 2013 @ 8:48 pm

    2001 Santa fe. 70k. Well maintained for 12 years. Last week, temp. only about 80* driving locally A.C. on low blow entire 10 munute drive. Get to store,ready to shut off A.C. and car, loud bang from what sounded like middle under fron hood. Car still idling fine but obviously a problem. About 30 seconds later car starts rumbling front to side front doors. I shut off A.C the rumble stops. Shut off car. In and out of store, start car, no A.C. on it’s running fine. Down the road put the A.C. on, it starts to rumble like it’s going to explode. I shut A.C. off, rumble goes away. Air is still blowing cold when turned on. Got home, opened hood to check timing belt, felt if any of the pulleys were loose, came off and all were tight. Checked the entire belt no cracks, but I know orig. belt should have been changed years ago. My fault. I turn on car watch belt turning ALT., and whatever else belt turns. I see of course compressor is not turning ’cause A.C. is off. I turn the A.C. on, compressor turns as it should, still blows cold but car is rumbling like wild in park. Turn it off. Check engine light does not come on for 8 days of driving local with no A.C. on. Before I get it checked, can you come up with all possiblites it could be. Is it just the compressor going ? Or somthing bigger. Obviously since it ony rumbles when A.C on, first guess is compressor. If that’s what it turns out being, ballpark a fix price so I don’t get ripped. Also that loud bang like a hammer smashing the engine made the problem start. Should I first change the timing belt before doing anything else? Sometime I’ve heard a bad belt could fix really bad things. If not what can you come up with. Mike

  195. Mike :

    Date: July 21, 2013 @ 8:54 pm

    I’m far from home so I’m really lost for a guy who is independent. Any ideas you come up with will be more appreciated than you can imagine. Thanks Again.
    Mike

  196. mike :

    Date: July 21, 2013 @ 9:24 pm

    P.S. 2001 SANTA FE.I just read your intro. The bang could have been one of the mounts? And when I turn on the A.C. it pushes the engine so the car shakes. If it could be one of the mounts, could the more I drive cause another mount to bust? Can’t believe I missed your intro just as a possibility. But please leave me any other possibilities it could be. Thanks Again. Mike

  197. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 22, 2013 @ 8:57 am

    Since the noise and the AC stopped at the same time, it’s most likely a bad compressor. My recommendation for a repair shop is to have a regular mechanic before there’s a major breakdown. Obviously if on the road away from home this is not possible. I would however try to use a shop that has a national warranty in case you need warranty work when you get home. Compressor replacements vary greatly in price due to the different prices for different applications. Also, remanufactured, new, OE etc all can make the price very different. Just ask for the breakdown of the costs and ask what parts are available reman, new aftermarket etc. Usually if replacing a failed compressor, the drier and expansion valve should also be replaced. Good Luck.

  198. Gina :

    Date: July 22, 2013 @ 5:18 pm

    Hello, I have a 1998 mazda protege es 1.8L 5 speed. When I turn the air on the whole car bogs down and almost shuts off and the belt starts squealing really bad! Any suggestions on what it may be? Thank you

  199. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 22, 2013 @ 6:21 pm

    Gina, it’s either a loose belt or the compressor is locking up. If the belt is in good condition and is tight the compressor is most likely seizing up. Good Luck.

  200. chris :

    Date: July 23, 2013 @ 9:53 pm

    I have a 2003 Kia Optima. It shakes bad when I am sitting still and feels like its going to die. If I put it in neutral and turn the air off it runs fine. I changed the spark plugs and is up to date with the oil change. The engine light is on and wont turn off. Anything can help.

  201. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 24, 2013 @ 8:32 am

    Chris, the logical 1st step in diagnosing a car that has the CEL (Check Engine Light) on is to scan the code. It could be a misfire code. Spark plugs are not the only thing that can cause a misfire. Coils, injectors compression etc. But we wont’ know what the code is trying to tell us until it’s been read with a code reader or scan tool. Good Luck.

  202. Kate :

    Date: July 28, 2013 @ 9:46 am

    Hi Dennis, I’ve got a toyota mr2 mk2 sw20 2.0 auto G-limited and, despite the car having a full service (including Cambelt, water pump, all oils, air filter, oil filter, platinum tip spark plugs etc), and the idler looked at (it sits correctly at about 900rpm parked), the engine is still vibrating the cockpit quite badly. And if you select Drive from neutral, it’s quite rumbly. Any clues?

  203. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 28, 2013 @ 9:52 am

    Kate, spark plugs would be the only thing on your list that could have affected how smoothly the engine runs (only if there was a misfire). So, I would look at the suggested items in the article, like the motors mounts for one. Good Luck.

  204. Lee :

    Date: July 30, 2013 @ 8:35 am

    Hi Dennis I have a 1999 Passat V6 2.8 litre 30 valve, I am in Western Australia and have had issues with a Clunk sound coming from the front end only on initial take off and stops. It happens immediately after initial take off. Could this be engine or gearbox mounts or both as an automatic specialist here in Perth said there was some movement when applying pressure in drive with the hand brake on.

  205. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 30, 2013 @ 9:52 am

    Lee, especially on a FWD it doesn’t matter if the mounts are attached to engine or the transmission, since the engine and transmission are bolted together and are felt as one when there’s a bad mount. I would replace any mounts that are compressed or that allow excessive movement and recheck. I would also check the CV joints for movement. The specialist should be able to determine if there’s an internal issue with the transmission (gearbox). Good Luck.

  206. Chris Edwards :

    Date: July 31, 2013 @ 9:59 pm

    Thanks for the help. I got it checked and it was

    P0421, Catalyst efficiency below threshold-bank 1

    P0303
    Cylinder 3 misfire detected

    I put on a ignition coil and it stop feeling like its stalling and going to stop. It still shakes and will stop when I put it in neutral. I looked at the fan it is making loud noises and the smaller one on the left is not running. Can you help again?

  207. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 1, 2013 @ 7:38 am

    Chris, the P0303 obviously was causing most of the vibration. I wouldn’t be surprised if the P0421 Catalytic converter efficiency code comes back. Driving the car with a misfire causes excess un-burned fuel to enter the catalytic converter. The converter is forced to deal with the raw fuel, burning it as much as possible so it is not discharged out the tail pipe and polluting our air, which decreases the cat’s life. It’s possible that the converter couldn’t keep up because of the volume of raw fuel. Time will tell if it can do it’s job now with all 4 cylinders firing like it should.

    After replacing the coil, it may take awhile for the computer to relearn it’s fuel strategy. I would make sure the air filter is clean and clean the throttle plates and IAC (Idle Air Control). Keeping in mind that it is common to have some slight vibes especially on 4 cyl’s. If it seems like too much vibration after the idle problem is corrected I would check the things mentioned in the “Engine Vibrations Article”.

    As far as the fans; If the fan motor is making excessive noise I would replace it. The fact that the smaller fan is not running is not necessarily a problem. Typically the second fan will come on when needed. Like when the engine temp reaches a certain point or the AC requires more air across the condenser. If the engine is operating at a normal temperature and the AC is working as it should I would not be concerned with the second fan. It most likely is working as designed if there’s no problems occurring. Good Luck.

  208. Klee :

    Date: August 4, 2013 @ 8:27 am

    We have a 2009 Kia Spectre with, I think, about 66,000 miles on it. We’ve had virtually no issues with this car which we bought new, this is despite our rather neglectful mantinance. However, for about the last 7-10 days there’s this annoying metallic scraping sound coming from somewhere under the passenger side (the sound is kinda like metal dragged across cement) It mainly occurs during acceleration and coasting but on a couple of occasions it’s happened when braking as well. It’s gotten increasingly worse over the last 2-3 days.

    What is/are the likely cause(s) and what is the urgency level(s) for the repair(s)?

    oh I should add that it’s an automatic transmission in case that’s relevant, also the rear passenger tire has a super slow leak of some kind– we just add air to it about 3-5x a month (when the indicator light comes on)

  209. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 4, 2013 @ 9:02 am

    Klee, Could be a wheel hub bearing gone bad, but I would say judging by the miles and the symptoms that the brakes are worn down to metal on metal. On disc brakes, once the brake pads are worn out the pad backing which is steel can rub the brake rotors. The same thing can occur on drum brakes with the shoes and drums. The longer the car is driven, the higher chance that the rotors will need to be replaced. This is because they cannot be machined (or turned) on a brake lathe if they are below a certain thickness. The metal on metal driving also causes excessive heat build up that can damage the rubber seals inside the brake calipers. This may cause the pistons in the calipers to bind because of distorted seals, resulting in the need for calipers to be replaced. Most repair shops offer free brake inspections… If it’s still repairable, I would also have the tire patched, because continuing to drive on a low tire can cause sidewall damage and lead to a blowout. Good Luck.

  210. danie :

    Date: August 5, 2013 @ 11:40 am

    I have a 2001 Toyota Camry le, when its on in park or neutral its fine, but in gear it shakes pretty bad, it doesn’t want to pick up speed and it acts like the transmission can’t keep up, not like its slipping and the shaking does go away when the air is off, I’m going to try the things suggested in the article and comments, but mainly worried about the sluggish transmission

  211. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 5, 2013 @ 11:51 am

    Danie, I would check for trouble codes especially if the CEL (Check Engine Light) is on. Could be a transmission problem. If there’s any codes stored that could help to pin the problem down. Most transmission shops will test drive it for you and offer an opinion. Some may scan for codes too for free and some charge. Good Luck.

  212. danie :

    Date: August 5, 2013 @ 12:16 pm

    Oh sorry the light is on and when you try to accelerate it flashes, I just bought the car from someone who had it broken down for close to a year, I wasn’t sure if the fluid and filter for the Trans needed to be changed and the closest tester from me is a 20 minute drive is it okay to take it that far?

  213. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 5, 2013 @ 12:29 pm

    Danie, the flashing means the engine is running so poorly that the catalytic converter can be damaged if it is driven. It also means there’s probably a misfire (and most likely not a trans issue). The code will reveal the problem. I would not drive it because more damage can be done costing more money to repair. Good Luck.

  214. me12 :

    Date: August 17, 2013 @ 3:32 pm

    2002 Toyota corolla has been vibrating when at 65mph. Checked tires, balance, brakes and axle and are good. Changed mounts recently. Still can’t figure it out.

  215. Dan :

    Date: August 18, 2013 @ 8:47 pm

    I have a 1997 Toyota Starlet Auto (4E-FE EP91 100k) and i am having some issues diagnosing an idling issue.

    The car idles normally in neutral or park, however as soon as i put it into drive or reverse the car shakes as if about to stall. This happens noticeably more when at normal operating temp, which one would assume is due to higher revs during “warm up”.

    I have done the following already: replaced spark plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor, air filter, PCV valve, oil and oil filter, auto gearbox oil and filter, thermostat and fluids, intake valve gasket, rocker cover gaskets, completely stripped and cleaned the throttle body and IAC (which was very dirty). The engine mounts are good and there are no leaks from what i can see.

    The IAC, TPS and throttle stop screw are all factory set.

    I have also reset the ECU so that it can re-learn the fuel trims but its still running rough. The timing is good (cam-belt changed at 85k) and there is no check engine light. The car runs well driving at slow and high speeds it’s just when stopped in gear.

    It seems the idle can only be adjusted via the Throttle stop screw for this model, as i cannot find any other adjustment screw.

    I did get some engine codes from the ECU, however i had disconnected all the listed sensors while the car was running prior to this and there were no engine codes when i had checked before disconnecting the sensors.

    If i disconnect the IAC harness when in gear the car does not vibrate. (the check engine light comes on however)

    My next step would be to replace the vacuum hoses in case there is a compression leak somewhere, then look at replacing the TPS and IAC.

    I’m thinking that the IAC is not being adjusted correctly due to an incorrect TPS reading, however both are not cheap to replace…

    This all started to happen after i changed the battery (after having to jump start the old one) with the only difference being that the new battery has a higher cranking amp rating. I get good readings from the alternator with no load and at high load so i have ruled that out for now.

    If you have any suggestions that would be great! (sorry for the long post)

  216. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 19, 2013 @ 7:42 am

    Dan, my first thought would be to replace the IAC (Idle Air Control) especially since you’ve already tried cleaning it and it does idle better with it disconnected.

    I would also make sure that ALL the cables especially ones for ground are making a good connection. You mentioned the problem first starting when a battery was replaced. I’ve worked on cars with aftermarket battery terminals that had poor connections for the cables. Poor grounds in particular for the computer can cause an array of issues that are hard to trace. Good Luck.

  217. Aijaz :

    Date: August 22, 2013 @ 5:07 am

    I just had the engine mounts changed on my 92 Daihatsu but ever since i did that my bonnet hood has been making noise i.e. rattling since the engine keeps touching the hood now i know that isn’t supposed to happen. can you tell me how should i fix the car. Thanx.

  218. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 22, 2013 @ 6:29 am

    If the engine is touching the hood (after installing replacement motor mounts) and there are no aftermarket components – you must have the incorrect motor mounts. The only other thing I could imagine is is there are slots for some adjustment rather than just round holes (not elongated). Some vehicles do have a little adjustment, like some of the Dodge Caravans.

    But I would recheck the application to make sure you have the correct mounts for the engine you have. Good Luck.

  219. RussMarc :

    Date: September 4, 2013 @ 4:21 am

    Hi,
    I have a 2001 Honda HR-V, 4×4, 5 speed manual, 76K, just had it Serviced at Honda Main dealer and now have a vibration which is making for a very rough ride felt through the general drive of the car.

    As well as a service, Honda drained the rear diff oil and filled it up with new Honda dual pump fluid. I also asked them to investigate a vibration “Buzz” feeling I was getting through the clutch pedal whilst changing gear when the engine revs are around 2500 and 3000rpm, they haven’t been successful at curing the clutch pedal Buzz

    I had a lot of work done on the HR-V this year, new Shocks and springs all round, tie rod ends, anti roll bar links, new clutch, kit and throw out bearing, master cylinder and slave cylinder, rear break pads and wheel cylinders. New wheel bearings and new rear diff oil, new back exhaust box, new front brake discs and pads and an engine mount.

    Also just recently,
    New timing belt and water pump, gearbox was making a grinding sound so that was stripped by the main Honda dealer and had input shaft bearing and main shaft bearings replaced, they also replaced the drive shaft and CV joint on the right side

    However I now have a rough ride vibration problem which is getting frustrating, I’ll try to explain;

    I can feel through the steering what appears to be the power steering trying to compensate all the time, and a bit like there is something loose somewhere, the ride feels rough at any speed, the rear view mirror vibrates like mad, I might be imagining it, but it feels slightly better when coasting.

    I’ve had this car back to Honda 3 times in as many months to try to isolate this vibration and fix the issue, first of all it was noticeable at around 65 to 70mph and caused a serious steering wheel wobble.

    Honda had trouble identifying the problem; they balanced the wheels and aligned them. I took the car home but I still felt this vibration and wobble, thinking a wheel weight may have fallen off I went to a specialist tyre fitter and they confirmed there was nothing wrong with the wheel balancing, tyres or rims, all 4 tyres are Kuhmo Solus K17 and new at the beginning of the summer. I went to 3 separate places to get opinions, all said the same thing.

    I made an appointment again with Honda and their chief mechanic took the car for a road test with myself and my wife on board. He immediately noticed the issue and again booked my car in. Honda stripped the front down again and changed the drive shaft and inner CV joint on the left side, and tightened up a lot of things, this has resulted in the steering wheel wobble having been eliminated but not the rough ride.

    Honda are saying there must be tyre issue, but I have been to a few tyre places and they don’t share Honda’s view.

    Any ideas where to look now?
    Thanks
    RussMarc

  220. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 4, 2013 @ 7:54 am

    Tires are the single largest factor when it comes to vibration while driving down the road. Kumho tires as a brand has mixed reviews. Even when tires are fairly round (no excessive lateral or radial run-out) there are other factors that can cause vibration and over-all rough ride. I remember when I worked for Goodyear years ago, I learned that Honda (the manufacturer) worked together with GoodYear to design a variation of the Corsa GT for the Honda Accord. It had slightly different specifications than the same name tire in other sizes for other applications. I had a 1989 Accord that had those tires. They were black an round and I wrote off the GoodYear training as propaganda regarding how special these tires were; That was until I was working at Pep Boys and it was time to replace the Accord’s tires. I bought Pep Boys Futura tires for the replacement. They were a great looking tire. The tread looked good. Not too aggressive and not too tame looking. The tires were perfectly round and didn’t take excessive wheel weights to balance. As it turned out, those were the worst tires that I’ve everpurchased. Besides not riding as smooth as the GoodYear tires, they had horrible traction in the rain. I remember sliding to a stop when I approached the first traffic light in the rain (after installing those tires). They were cheaper, yes. They were more significantly worth much less.

    If I were working at Carmax (one of my previous employers) and had you as my customer with this issue. I would remove the tire and wheel assemblies from a similar car (that rode well) and put them on your vehicle for a quick test drive. That way it could be determined if the issue is from the wheels or not. This is an extreme measure to take, but sometimes, no pun intended you have to go the extra mile.

  221. RussMarc :

    Date: September 5, 2013 @ 9:51 am

    Thanks for your response there, and your comments about tyres.

    Last night I drove home trying to convince myself that this vibration I’m experiencing is indeed caused by the tyres.

    Interesting that you mention Goodyear tyres because whilst driving home last night I had an idea, I also have stored in my garage an exact set of standard Honda alloy wheels with winter tyres on, these are Goodyear Ultragrip 8. brand new in Feb this year only used maybe 100 miles. I got home and removed my wheels with the Kuhmo tyres on and put the winter wheels with the Goodyear tyres on.

    I inflated the tyres to the specified pressure and went for a drive, I live in a village which is a mile away from the main motorway so I headed there.

    Well being optimistic that it is tyres that are causing the problem soon turned to disappointment, there was absolutely no difference to my problem. I’m still getting a vibration/shuddering through the steering wheel irrespective of what speed I’m travelling, and also through the clutch pedal when changing gear at engine revs between 2500rpm and 3000rpm, worse when revs are higher.

    The motorway I was driving on has a slight incline and I happened to be heading down the incline between 65 and 70 mph and the engine at 3000 rpm there was a definite roughness and judder, the power steering is still trying to compensate for something, I put the car into neutral and coasted for a while, the roughness disappeared, putting the car in top gear letting out the clutch the vibration returned, there is a definite roughness and vibration when the engine load is introduced.

    What I didn’t point out before, because I only tried this while coasting last night, is if you rev the engine high in neutral you can feel the engine vibration through the steering wheel and if you just rest your foot on the clutch pedal.

    (I feel through my feet a similar sensation you get if you gently touch one of the prongs, of a freshly struck tuning fork with your finger)

    So that’s what I did yesterday, I’m not convinced now that the Kuhmo tyres are to blame.

    I have asked Honda to look at engine mountings a few times and asked them if the HR-V has a harmonic damper of some kind anywhere? So far however it doesn’t appear that they want to look at these despite removing the gearbox 3 weeks ago to replace the main shaft bearings.

    So that is the saga so far, I guess my problem is that I can’t explain the issue in terms that they understand?

    Thanks again for reading my posts.

    RussMarc

  222. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 5, 2013 @ 10:57 am

    Since you said “I put the car into neutral and coasted for a while, the roughness disappeared.” that eliminates a lot of things including the tires (because they are still spinning at that point). Knowing this last bit of information I would lean more to something in the drivetrain. There are many things in the drivetrain though. I would keep it simple when explaining this to the technician and not confuse the drive-line vibration with other details. He knows what work they’ve done so there’s no since in recapping all of that and clouding the issue. Tell them the vibration goes away when slipped into neutral and demonstrate that on a test drive if needed. It’s up to them to trace the problem after that. Good Luck.

  223. Benj :

    Date: September 22, 2013 @ 12:14 pm

    My car vibrates during when it has a higher electric load. Newly change oil, alternator charging fine, intake filter, new sparkplug, throttle body also cleaned by company and a new battery. The toyota dealership say’s there’s nothing wrong with your car it is ok. I know my car. Before I didn’t feel any vibration. When I turn on my HID lights and my car stereo without ac, my rpm get’s low, around 600 rpms. Then it vibrates in 2 to 3 sec’s rpm going up 800 rpm everytime my car get electric load idle low 600 rpm start vibrate at park even in stoplight. Help pls

  224. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 22, 2013 @ 3:22 pm

    After replacing the battery and cleaning the throttle body the ECU may need to relearn a fuel strategy. After it is driven for awhile, it should start idling better. If the problem doesn’t straighten out it’s possible the IAC (Idle Air Control) motor could be sticking. But since the problem may have started around the time the battery and the throttle body service was done, I would suspect the ECU just needs to relearn. Good Luck.

  225. Benj :

    Date: September 24, 2013 @ 5:37 am

    Hi dennisb how long my corolla 1.6 will take to learn ecu so if im done next step i try to replace new IAC…thank you

  226. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 24, 2013 @ 7:36 am

    Benj, the ECU will relearn after several completed “trips”. Refer to a service repair manual for details on what qualifies for a “trip” for your particular model. There are many things that can cause your car to have the symptoms you’ve mentioned. I don’t suggest throwing parts at it. If I was there in person I would try cleaning the IAC if the problem continues. But since there are so many things that can cause problems it’s impossible for anyone (including me) to say what the problem is definitively without ever seeing the car in person and checking it first hand. A trained tech like myself may raise the hood and the problem could be obvious (like a vacuum leak, a broken motor mount, a leaky air intake hose etc.). Other times it may take a tech on more complex issues several hours of pin point testing, test drives and researching for pattern failures, TSB’s, software updates etc., to arrive at a proper solution. I just don’t want you spending money on educated guesses, when I am merely mentioning possibilities without ever actually seeing the car. My intention on this car repair blog is to help guide and give ideas on what things should be checked, but not to provide a list of items to replace one by one until the problem is fixed. Good Luck.

  227. Benj :

    Date: September 24, 2013 @ 11:13 am

    Ok denisb now i got it thank you again

  228. arjay :

    Date: November 19, 2013 @ 9:04 pm

    I have Nissan Navara 2011 model, it has a manual transmission. It started vibrating a lot even wen it’s idling. I changed all the mounts an it’s still vibrating badly. I am hearing noise coming from the gear box but I am not sure. This vibration started about 2 weeks ago. Now I when I pull out really hard from a traffic light that’s when the entire van starts vibrating. I need some advise please.

  229. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 20, 2013 @ 7:11 am

    The vibration at idle could be a running problem maybe from a vacuum leak. The vibration on acceleration could be u-joint related. It’s possible the clutch is starting to fail also. If I were you I would take it to a repair shop and have a mechanic go for a test drive with you. It’s much easier for a technician that can actually drive the vehicle. Much harder to pinpoint the problem through the Internet without the benefit of a test drive. Good Luck.

  230. arjay :

    Date: November 23, 2013 @ 6:03 pm

    Thanks a lot you are right…. I’ll let you no when I get through.

  231. wamorisky :

    Date: December 9, 2013 @ 2:22 am

    I have a 1997 model corolla 5afe engine an auto transmission. When the temperature is low car it’s okay but when its at normal operating temperature and put in drive it will shake. And in neutral it’s okay.

  232. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 9, 2013 @ 7:08 am

    It’s common for some vibes, especially with small 4 cylinder engines. If you have more than a slight vibration, I would recommend checking the mounts and other things mentioned in the auto repair blog above. Good Luck.

  233. Vasileios Papadopoulos :

    Date: January 5, 2014 @ 12:19 pm

    Hi Dennis, I have a 2011 Mustang 5.0l and I’m facing issues while driving where my engines starts to vibrate violently at random times. I had done an engine change and an ECU replaced but the problem goes away for a few days then starts again. Computer doesn’t show any faults and neither does the check engine light come on.I thought it might be a piston problem but then the issue should be constant…my final though is air bubbles in the fuel line but haven’t got that checked yet…Any suggestions?
    Thank,
    Vas

  234. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: January 6, 2014 @ 10:55 am

    I agree that a mechanical issue like a worn piston ring would be a constant issue. That would cause a misfire all the time which would set a code and could be checked with a compression test. Since you have installed an engine there could be many problems; since everything has been apart like grounds, electrical connections etc. Also improperly routing of wiring harnesses could cause issues like wire insulation getting rubbed and worn through. Under different torque the engine moves and could cause shorting or an open condition. Usually a code will set for most things though which would direct you to the right location. A leak past the Mass Air Flow sensor can cause intermittent running issues. I’ve seen tears in the air intake boot/hose that only opens up upon acceleration. This problem usually occurs when there’s an engine mount that is worn allowing excessive movement (more common on FWD’s).

    Air bubbles are not a common issue (air would have to enter somehow). A fuel pump could be an intermittent issue. A fuel pressure test may help reveal this if you test when the problem occurs. A fuel sample could be taken in case the fuel quality is an issue. Misfires can be checked on Ford before an actual fault code has been set. MODE 6 is where to look an a scan tool to see the number of misfires per cylinder. There has to be a certain number of misfires recorded before a code will be triggered. Good Luck.

  235. MIke D :

    Date: February 17, 2014 @ 9:36 pm

    I have a 1984 Jeep Cherokee Chief (XJ) I recently replaced the motor mounts due to the rubber being unattached from the metal sleeve for the motor bolt. The jeep was running fine, as far as I knew other than the engine jumping a little bit while driving. Since I replaced them the entire jeep shakes upon starting and while driving (went to end of driveway and back), but goes into gear with no problems. I did not check or change my transmission mount, would this cause my problem? I have changed my plugs and wires and my fluid levels are all good. Ive been racking my brain and searching things all day with no luck so far. Thanks in advance!

  236. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 18, 2014 @ 7:12 am

    Mike, the trans mount could cause a vibration too. However, from what you’re describing there might be a horrible misfire. If the vibration became worse after the plugs and wires I would recheck the firing order and the measurement of the plug gaps. Going by the age of the vehicle, a compression test would make sense while the spark plugs are out. Since this vehicle is 30 years old there will be no OBDII turning a CEL (Check Engine Light) on for a misfire. OBD II came on the scene back in 1996 and this system does self tests and triggers codes for misfires which is very helpful in diagnosing problems like this. The 1984 will have OBDI, but does not have the misfire detection ability like the next generation of On Board Diagnostics – OBDII. Good Luck.

  237. MIke D :

    Date: February 18, 2014 @ 4:33 pm

    Thank you dennis,

    I replaced the wires and plugs but everything stayed the same. the vibration feels like its coming from underneath the driver/passenger seats (where the transmission mount is located). There is nothing that sound wrong with it at all, its just a bad vibration… I checked my transmission mount and there is only a little rubber on it and none of it supporting the top plate, its just the bolts. I am going to replace the transmission mount here in a bit and see what happens. If it does not change any thing where would I find how and where to get a compression test?

  238. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 18, 2014 @ 5:02 pm

    With that information it does sound like it would be the transmission mount. We sell compression testers that you screw in the spark plug hole. You most likely only need the mount though. Good Luck.

  239. Wendy :

    Date: February 21, 2014 @ 9:16 am

    I took my Nissan xtrail petrol 2010 classic model in for a 40k service to the Dealer when it came back it was vibrating heavily. I took it back since the vehicle is under warranty and they changed the throttle body. The vehicle was still vibrating so they changed the engine mount and blew out the injectors but the vehicle is still vibrating but only in drive not in neutral and it’s worse with the Air-condition on……my vehicle is just a little over two years old….Help!!

  240. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 21, 2014 @ 10:38 am

    Wendy, if it just started vibrating right after the vehicle was serviced I would suspect something they did caused it. If I was working on it I would recheck all the work that was performed. Like if they installed spark plugs etc. If there’s a misfire a code should be set. It may take several “trips” before the trouble/fault code is stored. A code would be most helpful in pinpointing the problem. Good Luck.

  241. Wendy :

    Date: February 21, 2014 @ 2:27 pm

    Thanks Dennis, they indicated that they rechecked all the works they performed including the spark plugs etc. They indicated they put the vehicle under a scan tool but it shows no sign of something being wrong. But my vehicle never vibrated like this before…..can you advise what is the trouble/fault code? Oh, they did change the transmission oil on that service too and I read somewhere that this can cause issues if not done properly…..

  242. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 21, 2014 @ 2:35 pm

    A misfire fault code would what I’d expect like P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305 or P0306. The code ending in “0″ would be a random misfire detected and the codes ending in 1-6 indicates which cylinder has the misfire. It may take awhile for the code to set, several trips could be several miles under certain driving conditions. The criteria is set in the ECU (Electronic Control Unit). I’d give it a long test drive to see if the code would set. The transmission service shouldn’t cause a vibration. Sometimes if the wrong type of fluid is used there could be a delayed or harsh shift, but no heavy vibe.

  243. jc :

    Date: March 10, 2014 @ 4:42 pm

    I have a 2004 chevy trailblazer inline 6 motor. After my car has been driven a little bit and warms up it starts to hesitate, and if it keeps getting driven like that it gets worse, then has a sulfur smell, my check engine light will flash. & is beginning to have new symptoms; acts like its going to stall when stopped, & is beginning to hard start. It also has a slow acceleration. We have changed the motor mounts, trans mount, fuel pump & filter, ignition switch, resonator, has all new spark plugs (& not the cheap ones). I have brought it the dealer as well as other shops & everyone says well its this or that. Any advice you can offer with this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thank you..
    Also no codes, when the cel flashes it goes off.

  244. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 10, 2014 @ 5:15 pm

    JC, there should be a code. A Flashing Check Engine Light (CEL) means there is a misfire occurring that is so severe that the catalytic converter cannot burn all the raw fuel it’s getting dumped into it. It’s no surprise that there’s a bad smell. The catalytic converter is designed to burn any unused fuel that was not used during normal operation. But it’s not designed to burn large amounts of fuel resulting from a really bad misfire. Since you’ve continued to drive it even-though the CEL has been flashing and now it’s starting to exhibit new symptoms like slow acceleration and stalling, there’s a chance the converter has been damaged and is clogged up. A restricted catalytic converter needs to be replaced if the exhaust cannot go through sufficiently. For others reading this, if your CEL starts flashing call a flatbed, don’t risk driving the vehicle and damaging the converter. If the misfire has been fixed quickly enough the converter should be OK. But a catalytic converter, especially original equipment ones can be very expensive and the after market ones sometimes don’t work out very well. Any car will run better, the way it was designed with an OE (Original Equipment) converter.

    The CEL has nothing to do with external parts like motor mounts, trans mounts etc. It has to do with a misfire. If I was checking the Trailblazer and there truly was no stored or pending codes recorded (which would be very unusual) I would check for stored misfires. Not all scan tools can access them but there should be a counter for each cylinder’s misfires. Good Luck.

  245. help me plz :

    Date: March 24, 2014 @ 4:58 pm

    My engine starts with no problem; but, when I put in gear and press on the gas, it immediately shuts down or starts to shake. Its a nissan altima 200

  246. help me plz :

    Date: March 24, 2014 @ 5:00 pm

    nissan altima 2000* the comment from above

  247. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 24, 2014 @ 5:09 pm

    I would check the MAF (Mass Air Flow) to see if there are any leaks in the boot that goes to the intake. Also check for codes. Good Luck.

  248. Samantha :

    Date: March 28, 2014 @ 11:13 am

    I put the 350 engine from my 1980 Chevy truck into my 1994 suburban, and was wondering how to wire the distributor when the 350 one has one electrical plug and the suburban has 2?

  249. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 28, 2014 @ 11:18 am

    I would probably switch the distributors out (be careful with the timing). Good Luck.

  250. adewale :

    Date: April 5, 2014 @ 7:45 am

    Please I have a 2007 Kia Rio. The car started with the right front tire shaking. I changed the steering rack, bushings and all shocks with the steering pump. First of all the steering is hard to turn secondly the right front tire still shake when im on 100kmph (62mph). Please kindly advise on what to do.

    Thanks

  251. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 5, 2014 @ 9:34 am

    Usually a vibration at certain speeds is related to wheel balancing. It can also be because of a tire that is out of round (excessive radial or lateral run-out). Or because of a bent wheel. I would electronically balance the wheels on a wheel balancer and closely check the condition of the tires and rims.
    A rack-n-pinion or power steering pump can cause other problems but not a vibration while driving at highway speeds. Since the steering is hard to turn now, you may have air in the system or a faulty pump or rack. This needs to be checked separately because it’s a completely different issue than the wheel vibration which was your original concern. Good Luck

  252. sid :

    Date: April 11, 2014 @ 11:45 am

    2000 Mustang V6 excessive vibration driving or idling balancer seems OK. Changed plugs, wires, coil pack, blows my lil mind but sometimes it runs perfect and it seems when its kind of cool like 50 to 60 degrees outside. Thanks sid nawlins louisiana

  253. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 12, 2014 @ 7:55 am

    Sid, If there are no codes stored in the computer, I would try using some fuel injector cleaner. You may want to have a fuel injection service done as well. Maybe the injectors are not spraying properly especially at colder temps. Good Luck.

  254. Rick :

    Date: April 15, 2014 @ 3:40 am

    I have a 07 Dodge Charger 3.5L. I have recently noticed a slight vibrating rubbing like noise while gentle acceleration. The noise is not there when at a stand still, nor is it noticed while driving faster (can’t tell anyway). It almost sounds as if u would take a corner of a hockey card and slightly stick it in a running fan. Any suggestions of what it may be ? It’s annoying! Thanks

  255. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 15, 2014 @ 7:48 am

    Hey Rick, could be the timing belt a little loose causing what I always called a timing belt “flutter”. At different RPM’s the belt may not flop around. I’d pull a timing belt cover and see if it’s loose. It could be time to replace it before it breaks or skips a tooth. Good Luck.

  256. onose :

    Date: April 18, 2014 @ 3:34 am

    I own a Kia Carens, my engine vibrates annoyingly like I have bad plugs, I’ve changed the plugs, plug wires, coils, fuel pump, fuel filter, injector nozzles. Could there be a place where current could be leaking from? Or what do you think could be the possible causes?

  257. onose :

    Date: April 18, 2014 @ 3:52 am

    It’s a Kia Carens 2000 model. I traveled and left it parked for about 2 weeks and it started vibrating after I returned and after I just had it serviced.

  258. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 18, 2014 @ 7:15 am

    I would check for CEL (Check Engine Light) Codes. If there is a misfire caused by a mechanical problem with the engine, a spark or injector pulse issue etc, a code will be stored. Otherwise the engine vibration could be coming from a bad motor mount, a faulty harmonic balancer or something like that which the vehicle’s computer cannot set a code for. Good Luck.

  259. Brian :

    Date: April 27, 2014 @ 1:19 am

    I just had a new clutch kit installed on my 2002 Dodge Stratus. I did have the Flywheel turned and replaced the entire clutch with all new parts. I have a vibration (very small) starting 500 rpms up to 1500 rpms? After 1500 rpms the vibration goes away?

    Any responses would be great!

    Thanks

  260. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 27, 2014 @ 9:16 am

    Brian, some vibration is normal especially on 4cyl. engines (not sure what you have). Sometimes we don’t notice little vibrations until after a repair has been performed and we pay more attention after shelling out several hundred bucks. So what I’m saying is the vibration could of already been there. Now it’s possible that the vibration is new and related to the clutch job. It’s not likely that the flywheel is suddenly out of balance (even after machining). So that means you could have a damaged or defective clutch disc or pressure plate. I would take a good look at the motor mounts and other possible causes though, before condemning the new clutch parts. Most shops warranty repairs for at least 3 or 4 thousand miles; you could ride it out and see if things change for the better or worse. Consider using OE parts if you’re forced to have the job redone. Sometimes cheap aftermarket clutch parts are not worth the savings. Good Luck.

  261. zacar4e :

    Date: April 27, 2014 @ 4:32 pm

    My car has a horrible wobble when driving, gets worse the faster I get, even when I coast down a hill and put it in neutral the whole car vibrates, feels like it’s coming from the front. It’s strange that the shaking will temporarily go away if I make a long enough left bank turn… it’s a 03 pontiac sunfire, if anyone can point me in the right direction on where to look I can fix it. Thanks! Unfortunately I rely on this pos for everything…

  262. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 27, 2014 @ 4:41 pm

    Normally the condition of the wheels and tires and balancing causes vibrations when driving down the road. However, since it changes on turns it’s possible that there’s a loose wheel bearing or tie rod end. I would check the condition of the tires and wheels, the balancing if the tires are good and check for loose components in the front end. Good Luck.

  263. Moises Carranza :

    Date: May 17, 2014 @ 11:41 pm

    Ok plz someone help me out. I Recently bought a 1990 GT 5.0. When I put it in reverse it feels like it wants to turn off on me, it vibrates. But on the street it’s good running. Sometimes when I step on it the temperature scale passes the middle ONLY wile stepping on it. Then it comes back to the middle? SOMEONE HELP what may be wrong?

  264. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 18, 2014 @ 9:28 am

    Sounds like two different issues. I would check motor mounts that may be worn allowing excessive movement of the engine. I’ve seen worn insulation on wiring harnesses that were only shorted when the engine was torqued a certain amount. Also I’ve seen tears in intake hoses between the Mass Air Flow and the throttle body that were opened only under certain conditions because of the way the engine moved a little due to mounts being worn. I’d see if the problem could be duplicated sitting still with the hood up and the brake on while in reverse and feathering the gas pedal. If so a secod person can look to see if there’s anything like I mentioned above. While doing this check the motor mounts by seeing how much the engine travels when power breaking forwards and backwards. Broken motor mounts are easily checked this way. As far as the temperature gauge going too high sometimes; I would test this as a regualr overheat condition. Check coolant level, pressure test the cooling system, check engine oil level etc. and go from there. Good Luck.

  265. jimbo :

    Date: May 22, 2014 @ 7:14 am

    I have a 2005 Nissan Altima 3.5 the exhaust broke last week had loss of power and hard shifts. I brought it in to a shop. They tack welded it back up. Now I went to start my car yesterday and I have to turn it over for a minute, give it some gas and it starts and runs fine but it is a little louder. And now I have a hard shift in rev or drive, no power pulling away but if I use manual shift it works OK in first and second gear. It says I am in 5th gear but when using auto trans it has no power pulling away.

  266. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 22, 2014 @ 7:26 am

    I would have a shop look at the motor mounts. Maybe worn mounts allowed too much movement that could have broken the exhaust and caused the linkage for the transmission to knocked out of proper adjustment. You probably already know that the exhaust needs to be fixed rather than just tack welded. I’d make sure the the mounts are good first so the new exhaust doesn’t get stressed and broken also. Good Luck.

  267. Neil :

    Date: May 24, 2014 @ 5:46 pm

    I have just bought my 16 yr old son a 1995 Toyota Levin with the 4AFE motor.
    It runs well but I don’t feel the motor runs as smooth as another 4AFE motor I used to have…..I’m looking for some engine vibration particularly when we get above 3500 rpm……does it in neutral too so is not a drive train problem…..it is more of a harshness and loudness than a vibration. I tried running it without any belts so certainly not tensioners, aircon or alternator. Could the engine mounts be getting old and hard? Thanks

  268. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 24, 2014 @ 6:57 pm

    Neil, could be many things on a 19 year old car. I would think about about doing a compression check and checking for play in the timing gears… Good Luck.

  269. Gilan :

    Date: May 30, 2014 @ 4:51 am

    I have a 91 celica gt and it has a loud engine noise and vibration plus the gas pedal is hard to push when beginning to accelerate. Its smooth for the most part til I hit around 50 mpg then it starts to shake/rattle. Ultimate tune up..done, alignment and bearings..done..new tires on front ..done..hte check engine light is on but I am told that is due to the overdrive shift being stuck so I have to hold it down when I put it in drive…other then that great car but what is the heavy vibration/hard gas pedal due too?

  270. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 30, 2014 @ 8:21 am

    The Loud Engine Noise needs to be diagnosed first and repaired first. On a 23 year old car there could be serious mechanical issues, especially since you say there’s a loud engine noise. The hard gas pedal is the least of your problems. It could be caused from a worn cable or a sticky/dirty throttle plate. Don’t worry about the shrad gas pedal until the mechanical repair has been done on the engine. If the engine repair is too costly, it may be more feasible to look into a newer less worn vehicle, unless you’re in love with the classic and want a restoration project. Good Luck.

  271. Julie-06 Dodge Magnum :

    Date: June 4, 2014 @ 12:08 pm

    This website is awesome–thank you!
    I have a 2006 Dodge Magnum R/T. The engine has been making a rattle/knocking noise, particularly when I am riding rough hit even the smallest of pot holes. I was told a year ago that 1 motor mount was cracked and the other broken. I did not have the money to fix at the time so I did not. 6 months later when my car was being serviced I asked for the mounts to be checked–was told everything was fine. 2 months ago I was back in for balance/rotate tires and other work and asked for the same inspection–was told the mounts were fine but that the noise may be due to bad struts. Since I had never replaced the struts, I went ahead and did it hoping the noise/knocking would stop. Of course it did not.

    This was the same shop-different mechanics (Wheel Works). My question is, if I am to replace my mounts–how can I visually verify that they are cracked or broken? Could it be something else (I saw the fan picture as well).

    Oh I was also told that my coupler is cracked (driveline). Could that be it? I really don’t want to spend a fortune on fixing things that won’t ultimately stop this racket.

    Thanks for any help!
    Julie

  272. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 4, 2014 @ 12:14 pm

    Julie ask for them to show you the cracks while the car is on the lift. You may not not know about cars but anyone knows what a crack looks like. Ask them what your options are if their diagnosis does not fix the noise. We sell noise detection tools to help pinpoint these type of noises. I wonder if they have this type of tool? Good Luck.

  273. king :

    Date: June 16, 2014 @ 6:42 pm

    I have A Nissan caravan motor truck 2007 I heard knocking sound in my crankcase do you know what can cause this sound, I realized that my engine oil was low but forgot to buy it when I heard the sound I bought 1gallon threw it in but I still hear the sound can you help me please?

  274. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 17, 2014 @ 9:19 am

    Most people are already aware, that running any engine without the proper amount of oil is likely to cause severe engine damage. You’re most likley hearing the result of worn rod bearings. Have a qualified technician pull the oil pan and remove the bearing caps to inspect the condition of the bearings. It may be less expensive to find aused engine if the damage is too extensive. Good Luck.

  275. king :

    Date: June 17, 2014 @ 9:35 pm

    2007 nissan caravan diesel motor truck giving a clanking sound, engineer says the main and the conrad bearing are still good. what could give that sound
    please help me

  276. king :

    Date: June 17, 2014 @ 9:43 pm

    The technician says the rod and the main bearings are good

  277. Taj :

    Date: June 17, 2014 @ 9:52 pm

    My 98 grand marquis shakes real bad in park and in drive no check engine is on nor is the car smoking or anything just shaking horribly. Was told it could be bad plugs or distributor cap. oil was just changed on car 3 weeks ago. I used a thicker oil Castro 2520 I think is the name. No funds for a new vehicle so I may do a engine swap if needed

  278. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 18, 2014 @ 7:12 am

    Running with no oil or really low oil and then hearing a clanking noise that doesn’t go away when the oil is put back in means wear from friction (lack of lubrication). Usually cam or crank bearings although there are other moving parts. The engine will need to be torn down (disassembled) and inspected to determine where the damage is and to determine the next course of action. Good Luck.

  279. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 18, 2014 @ 7:17 am

    I would have a technician do a compression test. If the compression is good more testing will be needed. From 1996 and up there should be codes set for misfires. Some Ford’s take a while before they set the code and trigger the Check Engine Light. Meanwhile a knowledgeable tech with a good scan tool can check Mode 6 to see the misfire count for each cylinder. This helps determine which cylinder has the problem. then more checking can be done to see what the problem is. We have an article that goes more into Mode 6 Misfires with Fords. Good Luck.

  280. Jeff :

    Date: June 18, 2014 @ 9:28 am

    2006 Accord V6 auto trans.
    Problem- vibration and overall decreases responsiveness, like it’s not getting enough, or too much fuel or air. This only happens while I have gas pedal depressed a little to maintain speed up to about 65. This happens with or without AC and/or Cruise control on. Otherwise it shifts fine, no vibration at idle and no CEL. I have tried different brands and grades of fuel. Air filter changed 1000 miles ago.

  281. Jeff :

    Date: June 18, 2014 @ 9:32 am

    also RPMs don’t fluctuate when this is happening.

  282. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 18, 2014 @ 10:30 am

    Could be many things. Possibly even in the transmission. Since there’s no codes or anything to go on, perhaps it would be best to take this to a Honda tech that may have dealt with this problem before. Good Luck.

  283. babarackus :

    Date: June 21, 2014 @ 2:06 pm

    Hi I have a 2002 Kia rio with the same broken fan blade problem I was wondering if u could tell me were to find a replacement fan blade like u had In the pic above. The moter and shroud r fine I just need a new blade but everyone wants to sell me the hole assembly.

  284. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 21, 2014 @ 2:31 pm

    That was several years ago, but it was dealer supplied part. Good Luck.

  285. Ari M :

    Date: June 25, 2014 @ 3:19 pm

    I have a 2004 Ford Focus SE. I have problems with a rough idle, especially in the first 20-30 seconds after I start it when it’s been sitting overnight. It also shakes a bit at regular idle, but a lot with the AC on. It has stalled a few times with AC on. There is a chirping sound at idle that I believe is a loose belt. It is worse when the AC or fan is on and when I turn the wheel at idle. It also has a very loud roaring sound when driving that I believe is a bearing. All that aside, my friend charged my AC last night and I have every reason to believe he did this correctly. But today, my check engine light came on. I don’t have any new problems, just the same as before. I would love to fix it all but I can’t afford it. I can only do what is absolutely necessary. Help, please!

  286. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 25, 2014 @ 5:31 pm

    Rather than speculate, I’d scan the code and go from there.

  287. ruwan :

    Date: June 26, 2014 @ 1:17 am

    Hi I have a Mazda Familia bj5p 2000 automatic transmission car. When I decelerate my car, at 30 Kmh it gives a jerk and then slow down. But when I put the gear to S and speed up to 50Kmh and slow down then it does not jerk. I went to few mechanics and they different ideas of what it might be. I changed the engine mounts already. Please help me to solve this issue. Thanks

  288. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 26, 2014 @ 8:03 am

    I would guess that it’s something in the transmission itself, especially since it reacts differently when slowing from different speeds. I would first check the transmission fluid level and the condition. If it’s low or if the fluid looks old or burnt, it can have an affect on shifting. If the fluid level and condition look good, I’d take it to a transmission specialist and have them drive it and offer an opinion. Good Luck.

  289. Veronica :

    Date: July 1, 2014 @ 5:20 pm

    I have 04 ford explorer. I few weeks ago while I was driving, the truck just turned off. I felt a little shaking but that was the only signal I got. Parked it and it started right back up only to die out a few blocks down. Took it to first mechanic.. said let’s change fuel filter and see if that works, before we say it’s the fuel pump. OK, it worked for 2 days and bam the same thing happened but on the highway. Made it to shoulder. Waited a few minutes then turned on and got me home. Took it to another mechanic and he said let’s clean throttle. Did that and worked this time for 1/2 a week. Took it to another mechanic who was recommended and he said that I have the original spark plug and wires on and need a tune up bad and might as well get a oil change. 300.00 later for a couple days then on the way to my son’s baseball practice left me stranded in the highway with my 9 yr old son. I’m was terrified. Drove it back to the mechanic and it died at least 3 times on me just getting there. He said throttle is rusty, fixed that. It ran ok hasn’t died but the shaking was scaring me so told hubby take it to get computer diagnostic. $40 our fears were confirmed it’s the fuel pump. Paid our mechanic 400 for work and parts. Picked it up yesterday at 8pm. Drove It this morning no problems just got out of work and it’s shaking and feels like it’s gonna die out again. Service engine light is on again. HELP! I pulled over waiting on hubby, refuse to drive this truck another inch for fear it will stall on highway and cause an accident. What should I do?

  290. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 2, 2014 @ 7:55 am

    Veronica, most techs should know that maintenance items like a fuel filter, tune up or an oil change is NOT going to fix an intermittent stalling issue. Not to say that these things should be taken care of. But they simply won’t cause the problem you were having. My guess would have been the fuel pump. Guesses should still be tested and verified when possible. The CEL (Check Engine Light) is the best clue you can have of what’s going on. I’d check the trouble code and go from there. The code will not tell exactly what the problem is but it will point in the right direction. Since you’ve had so many issues and the problem seems to be intermittent; if I was working on the vehicle, I would do several extensive test drives. Maybe even drive it home a couple of days if you can do without it, just to make sure the problems are resolved for good. Maybe trade vehicles with your hubby until the problem is definitely fixed. Good Luck.

  291. viv :

    Date: July 3, 2014 @ 6:45 pm

    Hi I have 1998 Toyota Corolla, check engine light is on, when putting in reverse I hear a squeal and vibration, but not all the time. when making a turn I hear a lot of vibration also What could this be any idea?

  292. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 3, 2014 @ 7:52 pm

    Might not be related. I’d scan the code and go from there. Good Luck.

  293. Melissa :

    Date: July 6, 2014 @ 6:09 pm

    I have a 2008 Honda accord; 92594 miles it. Upon start up it shudders and makes a sound similar to a motorbike. When driving in 1st gear it shakes and the rpms go higher than they should, also makes the motorbike sound while in first gear. Car shuts off on an average of 4 to 5 times when driving different distances. The oil light comes on when the car has these problems and oil also turns black within days of being changed. Also has a ticking sounds sometimes when driving in first or second.

  294. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 7, 2014 @ 7:07 am

    There could be more than one problem. The first problem is obviously with the engine. Loud tapping upon start up could be valves due to worn/leaky lifters. Sometimes exhaust leaks can be louder at start up and quieter after it’s warmed up. I’d have to hear it myself to say for sure which it is. A good local tech could tell you with a quick test drive (after it’s cooled). But the fact that the oil light comes on may mean there’s wear elsewhere also like in the main bearings. If the oil pressure get’s too low the computer may be shutting the car off to save severe engine wear. Sounds like there’s already engine damage. The high engine RPM’s while in first gear usually means a worn clutch with a manual transmission. It could mean low transmission fluid with an automatic transmission.

  295. Aggrey Egessa :

    Date: July 14, 2014 @ 7:32 am

    Sir/madam,
    What could be causing my Nissan Mistral Model 1994 to shake or vibrate so much while I am starting it?

  296. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 14, 2014 @ 7:41 am

    Aggrey, that’s not much information to go on. I’d recommend reading the article above see if that helps. If there’s a CEL (Check Engine Light) on I’d start there. Could be a misfire. If motor mounts are bad etc. Good Luck.

  297. marie1 :

    Date: July 14, 2014 @ 11:02 pm

    I have a 2011 Chevy equinox. .whenever I accelerate driving 20-30 miles an hour my car makes a loud vibrating noise. If I stop and push on the gas it does it again. When I move with the flow of traffic I have no problems. It’s occurring every day at different times. .it use to occur when I would turn and accelerate but now I noticed it happens when I’m driving straight and I use the pedal.

  298. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 15, 2014 @ 7:14 am

    Marie, vibration is a sensation you feel in my mind not a noise. But I get what you’re saying. Noises can come from many sources and if I drove the car I’m sure I could zero in on the area it’s coming from. But, it’s much harder from this side of the computer because it’s hard to provide enough information for an accurate diagnosis. But, I’d look at the exhaust in case the catalytic converter is vibrating from loose internal parts. Or if there’s a heat shield that has a rusted spot weld etc. Another possibility is spark knock. If a CEL (Check Engine Light) is on I’d scan that code and go from there. Other than that, I recommend letting a local technician go for a quick test drive that has the advantage (over me) of being there in person. He can uses multiple senses on a short drive. Most experienced tech’s like me can tell what common noises are, just from hearing a vehicle drive by. My wife can probably identify many of them too, after hearing identify so many to her over the years. Good Luck.

  299. marie1 :

    Date: July 15, 2014 @ 11:15 am

    I guess it like a loud grunting noise that drives me crazy. The check engine light isn’t on and every time I take it to the Dealership of course the noise doesn’t happen. I guess I can take it back and start from here. .thanks

  300. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 15, 2014 @ 12:06 pm

    OK, yeah it’s best to take it to a shop. I would have never thought that “loud vibrating noise” would have been the same as a “grunting noise“. Good Luck.

  301. Michael K :

    Date: August 12, 2014 @ 3:26 pm

    I have 2006 Ford Expedition XLT 2WD 5.4L
    Everytime I drive slowly and when the 1st gear shifts into 2nd gear the whole body feels so shaking, feels like not enough gas flowed but when i floored it will speed fast like normal, only in the 2nd gear, no question. And also when I lowered the gear to 1st and it feels normal, I moved to 2nd and drive slowly into 2nd gear it shakes, on and off overdrive, same thing if shifts into 2nd gear. I hope I explain this clearly, got an idea whats matter with it?

    So far what I have done replace or tune up was:
    Spark Plugs – 6k miles ago
    Fuel Filter – 3 times within 3 months, trying to see if solved.
    Cleaned Air Filter (Airaid)
    Got new tires.

    When it happened, I thought maybe TPS would be the one, but I did replaced and not improved.

    Please help! My wife and 4 kids need the ride! :)

  302. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 12, 2014 @ 5:07 pm

    Michael, perhaps it’s a shift solenoid in the transmission causing the rough shift into second gear. I’d take it to a transmission shop to see if they think it’s in the tranny or a driveability issue like you’ve been chasing. Good Luck.

  303. Michael K :

    Date: August 12, 2014 @ 7:27 pm

    OK thanks, will check on it. :)

  304. Michael K :

    Date: August 15, 2014 @ 8:11 pm

    I am back and was not sure which 3 parts since Autozones call all of them are TCC Tranny Control Solenoid so I just needed to know which one that is like Transmission Shift Solenoid.

    Autozone parts and number of each:

    Notes: Lock up/TCC (Torque converter clutch) solenoid. #76922

    Notes: Solenoid, Electronic Pressure Control (EPC). #76926B

    Notes: Solenoid, Dual Shift, Both Shift Solenoids on one Assembly. #76925

    Hope to hear from you soon! So I can buy parts and fix it up. :)

  305. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 16, 2014 @ 9:28 am

    Wow Michael, I appreciate the confidence in my suggestion of a possible cause. But let me reiterate. I said “I’d take it to a transmission shop to see if they think it’s in the tranny or a driveability issue like you’ve been chasing.” I didn’t say run out to Autozone and throw some parts at the tranny. Besides, if you’ve ever had a transmission apart you would know that this is not a typical DIY job, even if you knew the problem was definitely a solenoid. I would first let a transmission shop drive the vehicle and offer their first hand evaluation. And then go from there. Not too many professional automotive technicians, I know would be prepared to dive into an automatic transmission repair. Good Luck.

  306. Michael K :

    Date: August 16, 2014 @ 2:23 pm

    Yeah I understand what you mean and I have done pulled out a Transmission on 1999 Dodge Dakota R/T 5.9 and it was no fun but made it. Anyway, I already drained out the fluid and I just wanted to dive in anyways to get over with it and I never trust Transmission shop, they always telling me it need to be rebuilt and cost 4k$. Anyways I will move on on my own, Thanks!! I will come back if success! :)

  307. David Mathis :

    Date: August 22, 2014 @ 5:14 pm

    I have a 1999 ford windstar with a 3.0 l when it idles the motor shakes bad. What can cause this problem? I have changed the motor mounts and have did a complete tune up on it. When you put it in gear it stops till you get to about 60. It even makes the tires shake.

  308. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 22, 2014 @ 5:47 pm

    David, sounds like you have two different problems. If there are any check engine codes I would take care of that first. If there are no codes I’d clean the throttle plates which can sometimes help a rough idle. The vibration at 60 that causes the tires to shake is most likely the wheel balancing or the condition of the tires and rims. I would treat those two vibes as different issues. Good Luck.

  309. cook :

    Date: August 23, 2014 @ 10:29 pm

    When air condition is on ..I feel a vibrant coming from my car. I have a crystal aspen

  310. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 24, 2014 @ 8:01 am

    Hello Cook. When the air conditioning is on it’s normal to hear and feel the compressor somewaht. If it’s really vibrating and very noisy the compressor could be failing. Also on 4cylinder cars the pulsating feeling will normally be more pronounced. In conclusion, if it’s not severe I wouldn’t be concerned. Good Luck.

  311. Barrie :

    Date: August 27, 2014 @ 8:45 pm

    I had to replace my AC belt and belt tensioner on my 03 Tahoe,4.8. The belt squealed an upon inspection I found that the tensioner was shot. I also replaced the serpentine belt but not the belt tensioner there. Currently I have a vibration that almost sounds like something is hitting the fan. I inspected the area around the fan and found nothing.
    This vibration happens when I excelerate and the AC is on. Once I am up to speed there is no noise. My thought is that the serpentine belt tensioner is bad and that allows a vibration under load but I didn’t want to buy parts that don’e help. Help…..Thanks

  312. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 28, 2014 @ 7:40 am

    Barrie, could be the wrong length belt allowing the belt tensioner to go out of it’s normal zone. That could also allow belt flutter, which could make a noise (what you call vibration). Good Luck.

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