Ford Spark Plug Removal Tool – Picture of Ford’s Bad Design

10:44 am Auto Specialty Tools, Consumer, Ford Problems, Lisle Specialty Tools

 Ford_Spark_Plug_Problems

If  Ford’s poorly designed spark plugs would just all come out like these.

© DenLorsTools.com Lisle Spark Plug Extractor DLT  Summary: The lucky guy that removed the spark plugs in the picture above, has someone watching over him, he narrowly escaped huge spark plug problems. We have orders everyday for specialty tools to remove broken spark plugs from Fords. The two piece spark plug typically comes apart, separating the main part of the spark plug from the huge electrode shield. Ford’s spark plug design comes under the heading “what were they thinking?”.  

DenLors Tools was one of the first automotive tool suppliers to sell the Rotunda 303-1203 specialty tool that was recommended in the Ford TSB to remove these broken spark plugs when they were broken upon removal. Now, we have a much better solution in the LIS65600. The Lisle specialty tool has quickly became our most popular tool for removing Ford broken spark plugs. We have had only positive feedback from auto techs that have used this tool. Ford forums have recently been helping to spread the word of the success of this new tool. There is quite a buzz about a Ford class action suite regarding this poorly designed spark plug, but our role is to help those that are dealing with broken spark plug problems, to remove them as quickly and inexpensively as possible.

See the pictures below of the best tool for removing the broken electrode shield. I did a demo at a local shop to show how great this tool works. In fifteen minutes it was out and that was my first time using the tool.

LIS_65600_Pusher_In_Use

Pusher in place, it screws into the spark plug hole and the center is ran down all the way.

LIS_65600_Remover_In_Use

 Puller in place, after the porcelain is pushed down to allow access. Apply slight pressure so the self tapping tool can bite into the sleeve.

LIS_65600_Removed

Notice the electrode is broken but holds the porcelain from going further, also the tool only goes so far.

Rest of this post including a link for the instructions & Youtube video on page 2 -

Continued on  the next page.

Buy the Lisle 65600 now.

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94 Responses
  1. dennisb :

    Date: December 25, 2008 @ 1:50 pm

    Order now LIS65600 DLT

  2. Mike Maddison :

    Date: February 23, 2009 @ 3:57 pm

    As the porcelain is pushed down and breaks the electrode, does any part of the broken metal electrode fall down into the cylinder?

  3. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: February 23, 2009 @ 4:05 pm

    There has been no reports of this, but it is a good recommendation to take a look at the plug’s electrode when it’s removed to see. It would be fairly easy to see if a piece is missing as long as you know to look.

  4. Jim Swearingen :

    Date: March 24, 2009 @ 9:13 am

    I am not clear on what actually breaks the electrode strap.. Is it the porcelain, or part of the tool??

  5. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: March 24, 2009 @ 9:24 am

    The tool threads into the spark plug hole, then the pusher is tightened forcing the porcelain down further which breaks the electrode strap. As mentioned before, just make sure no piece of the electrode strap is missing – that would mean part of it may be down in the cylinder. Although we have had no reports of this happening. Then proceed with the next step of using the self tap to remove the electrode shield.

  6. Jim Lasalle :

    Date: March 29, 2009 @ 9:18 pm

    Poor manufacturing procedures intended to drive the Ford buyer back into the dealer’s vice for maintanance. Some more of Ford’s poor engineering. You and I both know they test this stuff. No wonder they need someone to bail them out.

  7. matt :

    Date: March 31, 2009 @ 4:58 am

    What are you supposed to do if part of it falls into the cylinder. Seems kind of mickey mouse using the porcelain to break the strap inside the cylinder. I don’t I’m just saying that if did you could be in trouble. I guess the only thing you could do at that point is try and get a really small hose and vacuum it out?!?

  8. matt :

    Date: March 31, 2009 @ 5:01 am

    Dumb question, does it come with instructions?

  9. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 4, 2009 @ 6:32 am

    Matt, Yes the Lisle 65600 does come with directions. I can’t really imagine the strap breaking at two different places at the same time…that’s what would have to happen for a piece of the strap to fall inside. And the porcelain stays in one piece. If you prefer the method of pulling the porcelain out, then tapping and pulling the electrode see the Calvan 39100 and 39200 on our site.

  10. Rick :

    Date: April 8, 2009 @ 6:22 pm

    Would it be possible for the shield to be pushed into the cylinder while jacking the porcelain down?

  11. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 8, 2009 @ 7:03 pm

    Rick, I don’t think that’s possible due to the taper at the top of the electrrode shield.

  12. Rick :

    Date: April 9, 2009 @ 11:02 am

    Um yes, I see that in the photo now. Thanks for the reply.

  13. Robert :

    Date: April 20, 2009 @ 3:53 pm

    Have you ever had reports of the porcelain breaking/chipping and falling into the cylinder? It would seem natural that the porcelain is weaker than the metal electrode ground shield?

  14. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: April 20, 2009 @ 6:25 pm

    Robert, I understand your concern but we have had no one say that has happend. The porcelain is brittle but very strong especially when encapsulated within the metal shield.

    In fact before this tool was available, I’ve heard of guys chipping away at the porcelain for several hours trying to get it out of the way so the 303-1203 could be used to remove the shield.

  15. Sherwin :

    Date: June 15, 2009 @ 10:11 pm

    Does this tool work if just the ground shield is left in the head??
    I’m in the middle of it right now for I’m halfway through changing plugs and one has broken off so far. HELP!!!

  16. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 15, 2009 @ 10:36 pm

    Sherwin,
    If you are saying that the electrode shield is left in the head and not the porcelain, then yes. You would just skip the step that pushes the porcelain. Good Luck

  17. James :

    Date: June 16, 2009 @ 9:29 pm

    The lisle 65600 plug removal tool worked excellent on my 2006 F 150 w 5.4 ltr. It worked fantastic on the 4 broken plugs. It gave me confidence to complete the same job on a friends truck with the same problem.. All is well thanks James

  18. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: June 16, 2009 @ 9:32 pm

    James,

    Thanks for the feedback. Your friend owes you!

  19. Sherwin :

    Date: June 19, 2009 @ 9:05 pm

    Got my tool yesterday and it worked fantastic! I’m back on the road again. Can’t say enough good about this tool it worked like a dream. Yes, I too can attest to the fact that this tool works. I removed four broken plugs in a half hour or less. I now would be able to do this job on any other Ford 3V with confidence.
    Thanks a million!

  20. Ken Hobbs :

    Date: July 22, 2009 @ 11:41 pm

    We used our new tool today and it worked just as designed. Slick! But I think the real winner is Champion’s one piece design sparkplug! I hope Ford can get over it’s”over-design-itus” and get back to good solid engineering. Don’t mention 6.0 powerstrokes!

  21. Mike :

    Date: July 25, 2009 @ 10:24 pm

    THIS IS THE TOOL MOST FORD DEALERS ARE USING. IF YOU ARE MECHANICALLY INCLINED GET THIS TOOL AND DO IT YOURSELF. MY LOCAL FORD DEALER CHARGED ME 3 HRS LABOR TO REMOVE 2 BROKEN PLUGS. THEY USED THIS TOOL. I WAS WORRIED ABOUT HAVING PROBLEMS ETC… THIS TOOL IS THE WAY TO GO AND IT WORKS EASILY. DON’T BE CONCERNED ABOUT PUSHING THE PORCELIN IN. IT WILL STAY IN ONE PIECE. REPLACE YOUR PLUGS WITH THE CHAMPION ONE PIECE DESIGN AND THEY WILL NOT BREAK ON THE NEXT CHANGE.

  22. MICK :

    Date: July 28, 2009 @ 10:45 pm

    Does the tool work if the porcelain breaks of above the jamb nut? Have you seen any cases where the tool doesn’t work?

  23. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: July 29, 2009 @ 6:20 am

    Mick, it seems that the weakest point in the porcelain causes it to break in the same place (every time that I’m aware of). This tool has worked for everyone that we’ve dealt with that I’m aware of. Can it fail? Well anything is possible, but with as many pros & do-it-yourselfers tackling this job succesfully with this tool, I would say it’s definitely worth a shot (the last resort is removing the head). Also see our blog on changing Ford spark plugs in engines that use these plugs, the latest TSB is linked in that article. With patience and following the procedure, maybe the future spark plugs can be removed intact, eliminating the requirement of any extraction tools.

  24. papa :

    Date: August 1, 2009 @ 11:10 pm

    I ve got your tool. And guess what the porcelain did break when i pushed it. And it falls in cylinder. I used a vacuum to suck the broken porcelain. But i dont think thats help. Now it looks like a misfire. And the truck sounds bad. Just let you know guys before you buy that tool. And now i have to remove the whole damn head…
    The porcelain DID FREAKING BREAK. I removed 4 spark plug and all of them had broken porcelain (chipped in peaces).

  25. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 2, 2009 @ 8:33 am

    Papa, I’m sorry to hear that you were not successful. Out of the hundreds of these tools sold, this is the first report of a failure. I can understand a few pieces of porcelain chips on the topside of the broken plug, before beginning the removal process.

    I cannot imagine the porcelain falling into the cylinder if the tool is used as it is designed. After it is removed, I would look for any pieces on the bottom of the porcelain near the electrode. If it looks intact (like in the image below), then no pieces would have fallen.

    You said “Now it looks like a misfire.” Assuming you were able to run the vehicle long enough (which is not advisable if there is an unusual top end noise) and if there is a misfire code set, like a P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307 or P0308 for a particular cylinder (one that had a broken plug removed). I would focus on that cylinder and verify the cause of the misfire. Possibly a cracked plug, bad coil, bad connection to injector etc.

    You said “The porcelain DID BREAK. I removed 4 spark plug and all of them had broken porcelain (chipped in peaces).”

    It’s not uncommon for the plugs to break upon removal, Ford has an updated removal procedure, we covered in a different repair blog – Changing Ford Spark Plugs. For others reading this, if removing plugs in a 3V valve engine like this, use the new procedure outlined in the TSB and hopefully no additional plugs will break.

    The success of the Lisle 65600 is about 99.99 percent, but if anyone has doubts about using this tool after reading Papa’s comment, remember we do offer another alternative in the Calvan 39100 and Calvan 39200.

    Regardless of which brand spark plug removal tool kit is used, either offer a very good chance of success and avoiding the last resort of removing the head.

  26. Randy Martin :

    Date: August 2, 2009 @ 9:18 am

    After getting my plugs out I put Autolight plugs in only to find out that three cylinders misfired. The Ford dealer scoped it advised me to change to motorcraft plugs which they changed those three and it ran good for 150 miles then two different cylinders misfired. I just switched to the Champion brand (nice looking plug and never will break again!) and so far its fine.

  27. john :

    Date: August 2, 2009 @ 9:26 pm

    I got 7 plugs out fairly easy but the 8th one seem to be doing fine to the point I reached in with a magnet like the rest and it didnt lift out, does that mean it is broken? As I am looking at your pic’s I can see how it my be possible.

  28. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 2, 2009 @ 9:32 pm

    John, if the plug is broken the top part of the porcelain and the threaded part should lift out.

  29. john :

    Date: August 2, 2009 @ 9:36 pm

    thats what I thought I’ve tired using needle nose plier s it doesn’t move but I can screw it back down in then back out still nothing have any idea?

  30. john :

    Date: August 2, 2009 @ 9:39 pm

    with it screwed all the way up I doesn’t feel loose at the porcelain

  31. M Owens :

    Date: August 9, 2009 @ 9:02 pm

    I have a 2004 F-150 with 5.4 24 valve engine.After my mechanic told me I would have to take my truck to ford to remove the plug I purchased the LIS65600 Lisle specialty tool and removed the plugs myself. Best money I ever spent I would recommend this tool to any Novice or professional.

  32. Jerry H :

    Date: August 10, 2009 @ 2:35 pm

    I have a 2003 ford f150 with the triton 5.4 in it. The truck has 115,000 miles and runs like a top but i know that the plugs should be changed. They are still in because I am scared as hell to do this. The delaership said it would cost between 550 to 1500 if they had to raise the cab! I will never make this mistake again on a vehicle purchase! Will your tool work on the 2003 model?

  33. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 10, 2009 @ 3:40 pm

    Jerry H, You may have the older style spark plugs used on the two valve engine (which had the blowout issue). The 2004 and up 3 valve engines are the ones that are prone to breaking when being removed.

  34. Jerry H. :

    Date: August 11, 2009 @ 3:08 pm

    How do I determine if this is the case? And, is there a remedy such as a better plug with more threads?

  35. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 11, 2009 @ 4:54 pm

    Vehicles Affected with the Potential Breaking Design:
    Reference Number(s): 08-7-6, Date oflssue: April 18, 2008
    200S-2008 Mustang; 2004-2008 F-lS0; 2004-2008 Expedition, F-Super Duty; 2006-
    2008 Explorer, F-S3 Motorhome Chassis; 2007-2008 Explorer Sport Trac
    LINCOLN: 200S-2008 Navigator; 2006-2008 Mark LT
    MERCURY: 2006-2008 Mountaineer

    So yours has to be the 2 valve (the type that could blow out). The threads are in the head (4-5), more threads on the spark plug wouldn’t help. Just keep in mind that if you have a spark plug blowout we have the best thread repair kit (Calvan 38900). You may never experience this problem though.

  36. Pete :

    Date: August 22, 2009 @ 7:48 pm

    Ordered your tool just in case I needed it. Thank God I didn’t have to use it but it was a good feeling to know I had it if needed. Used Gumout carb cleaner after I broke the plugs loose. Let it set for 20 mins. Backed them out slowly. Had 1 stubborn one where I had to go over 30 ft lbs to get out. 2004 f150 fx4 38000 miles

  37. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 23, 2009 @ 9:21 am

    Pete, More than likely would have broken at least one if you hadn’t been so careful! The TSB Ford finally came out with has really helped a lot.

  38. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 23, 2009 @ 9:27 am

    Since we are unable to answer all questions as quickly as we would like, we have a car questions page to help find information quickly. Visit our car questions page (linked at the top of the page) for more info.

  39. Tommy Ruiz :

    Date: September 3, 2010 @ 8:40 pm

    I have a 2005 F150 Supercrew 5.4L Triton, I had removed the 2 spark plugs on the passenger side closest to the firewall, the one that is not closest to the firewall came out and was replaced quite easily. The one next to the firewall came out easy and intact, but it has been a pain in the butt getting the new spark plug to go back in, can’t get it to catch for nothing. I used a rubber hose to try and get started but no go. I am hoping that the repeated attempts of trying to get the sucker in didn’t damage the treads on the block at the top, if it did what are my chances of not having to take the head off and taking it to a machine shop? I am hoping that there is a chance that I can get the spark plug in without having to retread the head.

    Thanks,

    Tommy Ruiz

  40. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 4, 2010 @ 8:17 am

    Tommy, Occasionally the threads will be damaged even after following the TSB (linked below this article). We do however sell a kit for replacing the threads if needed. The link to the thread repair kit is also linked below this article in the “Related Articles and Products” section. If I were you I would try a thread chaser first (that you could most likely pick up at a local parts store). If that fails then the thread repair kit may be the next best option. It’s not designed to be an “on the vehicle” repair (for liability reasons), but I’m aware of some guys using it on the vehicle with success. Removing metal shavings with a shop-vac and a small hose attached is the method used after the repair process. Some risk involved, but a lot of labor and parts saved. The product listing also has a video showing how it is done. Good Luck

  41. XAVIER ADAMS :

    Date: September 9, 2010 @ 8:51 am

    MAN I JUST BROKE MY SPARK PLUG ON MY
    2010 MUSTANG

  42. Scott R. :

    Date: September 10, 2010 @ 4:04 pm

    I am currently working on a 5.4 that a buddy broke all the plugs in. I purchased the Lisle remover, and it worked great for all the cylinders except 3 and 7. I can not get the tool to bite into the bottom piece of the plug. I had read online about people saying this tool wore out after about 2-3 removals, so I purchased another tool and it will not grab either. Also, I have ran the pusher tool down in it several times to verify the porcelain is pushed down.
    Thanks, any help is appreciated.

  43. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 10, 2010 @ 4:29 pm

    First off, I would recommend to anyone removing plugs to STOP after one is broken and try a different method (instead of proceeding to break ALL 8). The TSB linked in the related articles may help to prevent breaking them in the first place.

    Scott, it sounds like from the repeated attempts to get the tool to “lock in” it has worn the sleeve so much that even the fresh, new puller cannot grab into it. Advice to other’s is to apply pressure while turning the puller screw counter-clockwise, to get it to engage or “bite in.” Scott, If you can get the broken porcelain out there still may be a chance the Calvan tool which uses a thread tap (instead of the self tapping method) may work. The number is CAL39100. Other than that you may want to check with Lisle to see if they have any suggestions – their phone # is on the instruction sheet which comes with the tool.

    As far as the tool wearing, yes it is a wear item. It seems like depending on how it is used (not allowing it to just spin), it can last much longer for some people than others. We sell just the puller by itself, since it is the part in the kit that is subjected to the most wear.

    Good Luck

  44. Scott R. :

    Date: September 10, 2010 @ 6:28 pm

    Thanks for the quick reply. I have also thought that the sleeves might have been stripped, but didn’t think that was likely by looking at the one removed.

    Do you think the Calvin CAL39200 Porcelain Remover will still remove the porcelain after the Lisle tool has pressed it down? If so, I will order both tools to try.

    Thanks

  45. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 10, 2010 @ 7:00 pm

    Scott, I don’t really have a lot of faith that the Calvan 39200 would work now that the porcelain has been pushed down with the Lisle. The hole may be crushed or off-center.

    I’m not recommending it but… I did have a customer that used super glue to seal the hole in the porcelain so it would hold compression. Then he cranked the engine over with a scatter shield in place over the cylinder to catch debris. He then was able to use the Calvan 39100 with the porcelain out of the way. To this customer it was worth the risk because if it hadn’t worked he would have been forced to remove the heads. The danger is flying debris which can cause damage and possibly bodily injury so I am NOT recommending this!

  46. jason c :

    Date: September 12, 2010 @ 1:06 pm

    wow….what a pain. I have a 2007 lincoln mark lt and was removing the second plug and it broke just as described above. If I have only one broken one do I take it in to Ford and have them remove or should I try it myself? I am mechanically inclined so would like to but am a bit nervous. too close to hunting season for my truck to go down~! Where do i get the tool for removal? thanks guys!

  47. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 12, 2010 @ 1:20 pm

    Jason, we sell 10 or more of the Lisle 65600 DLT’s every week. Very good success rate. Even some Ford dealers like our tool better than the SPX special service tools designed for broken spark plug removal. See the related links at the bottom of the article for more information. Click the image below to purchase.

    Lis65600DLT Spark Plug Removal Tool For Sale

  48. Scott R. :

    Date: September 12, 2010 @ 9:40 pm

    I just wanted to post a follow up for anyone who might find this site when in the same situation I was in. I was finally able to remove the #3 and #7 plug sleeves. I ended up turning the engine over several times (with all spark plugs out and a scattershield). When I did this, it blew out a small piece of the porcelain from 3 & 7 and then let me use the Lisle tool as I had with the other 6 sleeves.
    So as a short summary, if you are using the Lisle tool, and it never grabs/catches, there is most likely a small obstruction in the sleeve, in my case, part of the porcelain.
    Good Luck to all, and thanks for this site and your help Dennis.

  49. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 13, 2010 @ 8:11 am

    Scott, that’s great! It makes sense that if even a small piece of porcelain is in the way the self tapping part of the tool may be prevented from “digging in.” I appreciate you sharing this information – I’m sure if it happend to you, it may very well happen with others. Now they will know what to try in this situation. I must caution everyone again about the dangers of trying the scatter shield (and cranking engine over) method to remove debris. If carefully done though, this could save the day.

  50. DavidW :

    Date: September 14, 2010 @ 10:03 pm

    I used this tool to remove 2 broken plugs and it removed them easy enough, but in both cases there was a small piece of porcelain missing where it pushed against the electrode. I’ve turned the engine over without the plugs in for about 20 seconds or so hoping to blow any pieces out. At this point I’m not sure whether to give up an call it good or try and find a borescope.

  51. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: September 15, 2010 @ 12:49 pm

    David, The porcelain should be contained. But I would most likely do what you did and just turn the engine over a few revolutions to blow out any debris. Using a borescope or video inspection scope would be a good idea though.

  52. cliles55 :

    Date: October 13, 2010 @ 10:13 pm

    This tool is AWESOME!!! I didn’t want to afford $300 for a tool used by Ford mechanics and I surely didn’t want to afford the Ford house to remove the head and tap! tap!, knock out the 2 shrouds broken off.

    This tool showed up 2 days after I ordered it; 20-minutes to remove the shrouds. It honestly took longer to round-up the tools to install the replacement plugs.

    Great tool! Great price! Thanks, Denlorstools dot com!

  53. GEEZ :

    Date: October 26, 2010 @ 11:28 am

    Alright, changed 6 of the eight plugs on my 2006 F150 5.4L Triton. Was able to remove the 8th with your tool, but unfortunately the #7 broke a second time leaving a small tip. When trying to extract the remaining tip is got pushed down into the cylinder. I’ve tried fishing for it with a borescope and mechanical hand, no luck. I don’t know what other option I have except to remove the head and I’ve never done that and don’t want to attempt it if I don’t have to…are there any other options?

  54. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 26, 2010 @ 11:40 am

    Geez, I would try;

    1. A dab of grease on the end of a flexible pick up tool. If you touch it, it should hopefully stick to the grease long enough to get it out.

    2. A small piece of hose attached to a shop vacuum.

    3. As a last resort I would crank the engine over and let the compression blow it out of the cylinder (do this at your own risk).

    You could also call Lisle for suggestions – their phone number is on the instruction sheet that came with the tool.

  55. Dennis V :

    Date: October 30, 2010 @ 7:54 pm

    A friend suggests that if I fill the top of the cyl. with diesel and syphon or suckout with a vacuum iI will get all the particles out more thoroughly
    what do you think?

  56. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 31, 2010 @ 8:18 am

    Dennis V, If the the valves wouldn’t allow the diesel fuel to go beyond the cylinder and if the porcelain would float this would be an interesting approach. I feel as if this would however be a very messy procedure with not much chance of obtaining the desired results. Can’t blame a “friend” for trying to help though. :)

  57. Cheese :

    Date: November 8, 2010 @ 10:36 pm

    I have been reading this site and it has been a wealth of info. I have a 2007 mustang gt 45k miles. i got 7 out and broke the 8th. used the lisle tool but also had some porcelain break off. it seems like a piece of the ground strap came off as well. I am currently waiting for a bore scope to come in, i was thinking about using a vacuum and maybe something sticky like wrapping a telescopic magnet with silly putty or something to stick down in there. I dont want to have to pull the heads, but will if needed. I want to thank everyone for their input.

  58. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 9, 2010 @ 9:44 am

    Cheese, the ground strap does break, however it seems very unlikely that it would break in two places simultaneously. That’s what would need to happen for this to occur. You are not the first one to say that a piece of the porcelain has chipped and fell into the cylinder. This seems odd to me as well since the electrode shield should encapsulate the porcelain. With this being said; if I thought that there were pieces in the cylinder I would feel better inspecting with an inspection scope before installing the new plug also. Here’s the video inspection scope section linked below – click the image for more information.

    SLIPV Inspection Scope - Borescope

  59. bob faymam :

    Date: November 9, 2010 @ 3:22 pm

    why are they dumm

  60. Mad Mel :

    Date: November 11, 2010 @ 1:30 am

    Sounds like a good tool for the price. Will give it a try. One fellow mentioned “no wonder these guys needed a bail out” that was Chev and Chry Co. dude! It’s because Ford engineers are so good at hosing the consumer with this sub standard crap they survived. I met a rep from the spark plug co. that designed and abandoned this design of plug for the very reasons we are reading this thread….I have been a Ford guy for 30 years and these days it can be embarrasing…lets not talk 6.0!

  61. Chris :

    Date: November 18, 2010 @ 8:20 pm

    This just happened to my 2006 Ford Expedition with only 55k miles on it. Of course we didn’t have your special tool! Ford dealership is trying to say “this never happens”…..the cylinder with the bad spark plug is now not getting compression so they want to charge us $2300 to fix it. It’s Ford’s faulty part, so shouldn’t they cover this crappy part and the bad result as well? Anyone had any luck with Ford paying??

  62. Dave :

    Date: December 2, 2010 @ 11:38 am

    Used the tool last night and worked perfect in a matter of minutes. It was a thrill hearing the crushing of the ceramic left in the tip as it was pused into the tip. My strap broke in the center but as mentioned above not sure how a piece would have broken free at the exact same time and went into the cylinder. I bent the tips over and it looked like it was all there but hard to tell since the tool deforms the tip and thins out the sides of the tip and strap. Ceramic all remained in the tip and it all backed out just fine. I did both blow out and vacuum the area just to be sure. Ran the engine and all seems fine. Glad that is over with and will not have to go through that again. Great tool!!!

  63. Justine :

    Date: December 6, 2010 @ 6:19 pm

    I was trying to change the 8th spark plug (driver side next to firewall) on my 98 f-150 and the whole damn top and ceramic came out leaving the bottom in the cylindar. Any suggestions on how to get it out, without removing the head or paying $3,000 to a shop or dealer? Please any help would be great don’t want my baby to be sitting any longer.

  64. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 6, 2010 @ 7:57 pm

    Justine, the 1998 does not have the same design as the 3v engines like in this article. As long as you still have wrench flats on the part of the spark plug that is remaining you still have a shot at getting it out. The broken porcelain on the old style plug has no affect on removing the rest of the plug. Good Luck.

  65. jeramy duett :

    Date: December 16, 2010 @ 1:18 am

    will the lisle 65600 work for removing a broken plug in a 96 V6 4.0 ford explorer….. the ceramic and electrode are broken of even with the point of brakeage wich is directly below the nut leaving the 1/2 inch shank,taperd part wich seats to head and threads in head…. broken off pretty much even with the flat part of the head and if so could you explain exactly how the tool functions…. THANKS FOR ANY INFORMATION

  66. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 16, 2010 @ 7:16 am

    Jeramy, no. The LIS 65600 is ONLY for the 3 valve engines with the unique spark plug design in the first picture in this repair article. Instructions for the tool kit is below, but it will NOT work for your application. Your best bet may be an easy out but if you break the easy out likely the head will need to be removed.

    LIS65600 PDF Instructions:
    Page 1
    Page 2

  67. Jeremy :

    Date: October 5, 2013 @ 1:32 pm

    I just changed all sparkplugs in my 2007 f150 5.4 v8 i used a simple trick to not break spark plugs. Run the engine for about 20 to 30 min so engine is nice and got then pull out plugs they come out easy and go in easy. I tried when engine was cool and had hard time taking one out.

  68. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 5, 2013 @ 4:07 pm

    Jeremy, that’s great. It may not work every time but it’s worth a try.

  69. Rob :

    Date: October 24, 2013 @ 3:41 pm

    I have a 2006 Ford F-150 5.4 Triton is this tool easy to use for someone who has never changed these types of spark plugs?

  70. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: October 24, 2013 @ 4:17 pm

    Rob, we have many do it yourselfers that purchase this tool and have no problems. I’m sure there’s a few that have had to deal with broken porcelain in the cylinder, because of the pushing method of the Lisle. That’s why I am leaning more towards the Calvan 39100 and 39200 which uses the Ford (Rotunda) method of pulling the porcelain out rather than crushing it downward. If the plugs are not broken yet see our OTC6918 which locks the porcelain into the hex preventing it from being broken to begin with.

  71. ray 1 :

    Date: November 2, 2013 @ 5:28 pm

    Started to change plugs 07 ford F150 5.4 Triton. 6 plugs came out 2 plugs broke. Ordered Lisle 65600 tool was great. I feel for the other ford owners out there that had to spend there hard earned money. Thanks for nothing Ford you suck.

  72. Mike H :

    Date: November 4, 2013 @ 8:27 am

    I changed out the plugs in my 2004 FX4 yesterday and 6 of 8 broke. The tool worked well for 5 of the 6, but by the time I got to the last plug, the threads on the grabber tool were so stripped that I can’t get engagement to pull it out. Do I have to spend another $70 on a new tool for 1 plug that I can’t get out? I’ve heard of great reviews for the tool, but haven’t heard about the issue that I’ve had.

  73. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 4, 2013 @ 8:45 am

    Yes this does happen occasionally. You may be able to get Lisle to warranty the puller screw by calling the phone number on the directions. They will sometimes take care of it and other times they will not. If they won’t warranty it for you, we do sell the replacement puller screw – just click the following Lisle Replacement Puller Screw. For others that have not purchased a spark plug remover yet, see the video below of our review on broken spark plug removal tools. You will possibly want to go with the Calvan tools which uses the Ford method. It eliminates the problem of worn puller screws and pieces of porcelain sometimes being crammed down into the cylinder. We have these Calvan tools on Wiseautotools.com and DenLorsTools.com. Also for more information see our auto tool/repair article on the same topic.

  74. Russell :

    Date: November 4, 2013 @ 3:47 pm

    I have a 2004 Ford Escape XLT. When trying to remove the “back” (under the intake manifold) spark plugs, two of them broke. The porcelin and nut came clean, but the threads are still stuck in the head. Could this tool feasibly help me? I’d rather not have to tear the engine apart to get to them. :(

  75. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 4, 2013 @ 4:42 pm

    Russell, the Lisle and the Calvan Spark Plug removers are not for anything other than the 3V For spark plugs. Drilling the center out of the plugs and using an easy out is one possibility. But, if the easy out is broken you would be in worse shape. Since the plugs are seized in so severely, I would say an easy out would most likely break. Therefore, I would drill them out and install thread inserts. The kit to use would be a 4412E (see the inserts at the bottom of the listing) or the 5553 if an oversized insert is needed after the plugs are drilled out. Let me know if we can help get the kit for you.

  76. Russell :

    Date: November 5, 2013 @ 9:04 am

    The only thing in the heads are the threads; the nut portion sheared off and came out with the porcelain.

    Would drilling the center out require removing the head?

  77. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 5, 2013 @ 9:38 am

    The thread repair kits are used over the fender without removing the cylinder head. I would just verify the valves are closed on each cylinder as I was working on it. This prevents the shavings from going past the valves. After all the drilling and tapping is done, then use a shop vacuum and a blower using compressed air to clean the cylinder out. I would also crank the engine over with the coil and fuel injector disabled before finally installing the spark plug.

  78. Russell :

    Date: November 5, 2013 @ 11:25 am

    My only concern with that is that the electrode tip is still down there and that drilling it out won’t get rid of it and could exacerbate the problem. If I were able to post a picture on here of how the plugs in question looked after I removed them, I would.

  79. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 5, 2013 @ 11:34 am

    Russell, you would definitely have to make sure all debris is out of the cylinder. Some of our customers will also get a video inspection scope to check the cylinders to verify everything is out. That is still better than removing the head. The removal of the head requires a lot more labor, gaskets, coolant, oil change etc. I’ll email you so you can send images.

  80. Sandy :

    Date: November 20, 2013 @ 3:44 pm

    Dennis,

    I had two stuck plugs and used the Lisle tool fine on both, but I too (same as GEEZ and Cheese above) had the ground strap break in two places and fall into the cylinder.

    Any new suggestions on fishing the piece out? What works best? What are the chances of a piece that small causing damage if left in there?

  81. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 20, 2013 @ 4:24 pm

    Hello Sandy. Not sure how the electrode can break in two places at the exact same time. But if you’re sure that happened I would use a shop vacuum (with a small tube taped on the end of the hose) and a video scope to verify everything is out. Even a small piece of metal left in the cylinder can cause a lot of damage.

    For others reading this is one reason why we are now recommending the Calvan 39100 and 39200 which does not push the plugs. This eliminates the possibility of pieces breaking and falling into the cylinder.

  82. Sandy :

    Date: November 20, 2013 @ 4:58 pm

    Already tried vacuuming with a small tube and the grease. I have a test piece of the same size broke off from another plug and a telescoping magnet picks up the test piece but no luck inside the cylinder

  83. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 20, 2013 @ 5:01 pm

    Grease may make it stick to the inside of the cylinder. I would use a video scope to see where its at.

  84. Sandy :

    Date: November 20, 2013 @ 5:22 pm

    I got it!!

    Rigged up a household vacuum hose with some computer wire insulation at the end. After a couple of tries I got it out.

    Yeah, I don’t know how it breaks in two places at the same time either. My theory is when you push the ceramic, if it hits that ground strap squarely, it’s going to break symmetrically. Maybe Lisle should either redesign or more accurately state how much ceramic can remain on the ground metal. The other stuck plug hit the ground strap too but luckily it only snapped at one place.

    Thanks for your help, Dennis!

  85. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: November 20, 2013 @ 6:45 pm

    That’s great. Yeah I think the Calvan method is safer.

  86. Charlie C :

    Date: December 28, 2013 @ 11:21 pm

    2007 mercury mountaineer 74k been to dealership 13 times in 3 years they ruined my truck they kept changing the coils instead of checking my intake manifold had the manifold change with some of the coils again at my mechanic about month ago now 2 of the spark plugs are oxidized and aren’t coming out been trying couple times a week for a month lol is this tool ok to use with the melted spark plugs to get out ?

  87. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: December 29, 2013 @ 9:21 am

    The tool is only for 3V engines and only for removing broken M16x1.5mm spark plugs. If you have a three valve engine it would be worth trying if they break coming out. The good news is that we do have spark plug hole thread repair kits as well if the threads are damaged beyond use when getting the spark plugs out. Good Luck.

  88. Charlie C :

    Date: December 29, 2013 @ 11:36 am

    Sorry forgot it’s 4.6 v8 premier

  89. Charlie C :

    Date: December 29, 2013 @ 11:43 am

    What is the name of the thread repair kit ?

  90. Charlie C :

    Date: December 29, 2013 @ 11:59 am

    What tool and kit would I have to use for 2007 mountaineer 4.6 v8 premier

  91. vic :

    Date: May 26, 2014 @ 11:02 am

    I have a 2004 f-150 with the 5.4 3 valve engine. When it came the time to change the plugs, 7 came out intact. The last one broke off. With no tool to remove it, here’s what I did. I put a bunch of old towels over the spark plug hole and then started the engine. It ran about 5 seconds then blew the broken piece right out. The towels caught it. Problem solved.

  92. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: May 26, 2014 @ 11:52 am

    Gotta get LUCKY sometimes! I’ve heard of guys using super glue to fill the electrode hole in the porcelain, to hold compression, and then running the engine to blow the porcelain out. But I’ve never heard of anyone able to blow the porcelain and the electrode shield out together.

  93. Jason :

    Date: August 24, 2014 @ 11:15 pm

    I just purchased the tool after having the first three plugs break on removal. Two of the plugs had the brass come out around the porcelain completely (i.e., the porcelain did not break and is currently still in the plug hole). Should I break it off and use the tool?

  94. dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :

    Date: August 25, 2014 @ 7:11 am

    Hey Jason, thanks for the purchase of the Lisle 65600 with DenLorsTools.com. If you watched the video on the second page of this blog you would see that needle nose pliers can be used to break and remove the porcelain if needed. Good Luck.

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