2003 Ford Explorer AC Not Cold Enough
August 9, 2008 12:21 pm Auto Technician / Mechanic
This picture shows some side dash bolts with trim removed.
A Ford Explorer that has a full charge of refrigerant and is cooling, but is not quite cool enough may have a broken fresh air door. The fresh air door is also called a recirculate door, max air door or main air inlet door. The function of the door is to let fresh air in, or to recirculate the inside air. When the air conditioning control is set to the max position, the fresh air door seals off the outside air to recirculate the air in the passenger compartment. When the air is recirculated, cooler air temperatures can be obtained since the air is cooler to begin with, compared to the outside air.
Not Just Ford. Any vehicle with a broken recirculation door or actuator that moves this door can have this problem. However a broken blend door is a common problem with the Ford Explorer. This can be checked easily. First, listen for increased air flow when changing the the AC to max. If the air doesn’t sound louder in the max position, there’s a good chance the recirculate door is broken. Next open the glove box and look for movement of the recirculate door when switching from normal to max air.

Fresh Air door assembly, broken door fell to the bottom.
Dash Removal. If the door is broken, dash removal is required to access and change the door assembly. Book time pays 6.9 hours not including check out time and evacuation and recharging. This job can be done by an experienced technician in about 45 minutes, with no need to evacuate and recharge the AC system. The dash is not completely removed, just unbolted and swung out to rest on the passenger seat to allow removal and replacement of the main air inlet door assembly.
Remove the Console. Remove the center console upper trim (one 7mm screw), unplugging the power outlet. There are two 10mm bolts securing the front of the console to the floorboard. Move the seats forward, from the back seat area remove two 10mm bolts from the sides of the console. Now the console is loose, place it to the side.
Unbolting the Dash. After disconnecting the battery, remove the trim panels from the sides of the dash and the defrost trim from the top. There are two bolts on each side and two on the top. Unbolt the steering coupler near the driver’s floorboard. There is one hidden 10mm bolt that is accessed from the outside.

Hidden Dash 10mm Dash Bolt
Sneaking it Out. No need to remove the wipers and cowl trim. Gently pry the cowl trim up and leave it propped up about an inch and a half to allow access to the bolt. Have a magnet pick up tool handy in case the bolt falls out of the socket. Unbolt the wiring harness on the right side and unplug the antenna.
Swing the dash out to access the recirculate door
Swing It. Slowly swing the dash out with care not to put excessive force on the wiring. Once the dash is pulled back, remove the 8mm screws from the metal support bracket and the top of the door assembly. There are two 8mm screws that cannot be accessed, pull on the fresh air door assembly break it away from the evaporator case. Now remove the 8mm screws and remaining plastic, making sure no plastic pieces fall into the blower fan.

Use Right Stuff Sealant at the Mounting Points Marked in the Picture
Right Stuff. Instead of re-using the two 8mm screws at the hard to access attaching points near the firewall, apply right stuff sealant or a similar substance to secure the fresh air door assembly. Then re-attach the remaining 8mm screws that can be accessed. By using the right stuff securing method, much time is saved. Now re-install the dash and console and an eight hour job is completed in about 45 minutes!








Shawn Morris :
Date: September 16, 2008 @ 11:43 am
What might be the problem if the heater doesn’t blow warm air and it is making a clicking sound?
dennisb auto tool guy :
Date: September 16, 2008 @ 12:37 pm
Shawn, Sounds like you have a bad actuator, also called a door motor. Find the source of the clicking and unplug the actuator to verify. The clicking should stop when the electrical plug is out. Use the number on the old part to get the correct part from the dealer. I have a tech article on Jeep HVAC doors that has some information that may apply to Ford’s as well, see the tech article.
Erik :
Date: December 8, 2008 @ 4:05 pm
I have a 2003 Explorer XLT with the 4.0L V6, and I may have a similar problem. My AC never seems to be as cold as other cars even when fully charged, this isn’t much of an inconvenience and I can live with it.
The main problem I just noticed is I just got back from a trip in very cold weather and there was a stream of cold outside air coming from behind the glove compartment and into the passenger area. This was almost unbearable for a 900 mile round trip. Any ideas what this could be from?
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: December 9, 2008 @ 8:04 am
Erik, Sounds like the fresh air door also called recirculate door has fallen. This will let outside air enter from behind the glovebox. The image with the dash pulled that has a caption that says “Fresh Air door assembly, broken door fell to the bottom” is what I’m talking about. Drop the glove box door and see if you can see the door moving when switching the controls from normal and max. If you don’t see it moving, it most likely has fallen. Feel through the plastic grate, it’s probably on the bottom, like the one in the picture.
Erik :
Date: December 11, 2008 @ 10:38 pm
Thank you for your response. I’ve been able to get my fingers through that vent and can easily feel the door on the bottom, fallen.
Is this part replaceable or fixable? I can’t find anything other than this Napa Auto Part Listing.
Is this the part that has to be replaced? If so, is there anything else I need before I start pulling the dash back?
I’m trying not to go through a dealer and fix it myself at the shop I work at. Unless the dealer is where I have to order the part.
Thanks again,
Erik
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: December 12, 2008 @ 7:30 am
Erik, The method outlined in this blog requires the replacement of the entire fresh air door assembly, since it is not re-usable after it is pulled and broken away from the main case. If you want to use the Napa replacement door that you mentioned, the main evaporator case will need to be pulled which will require much more labor. The point of this tech article is to save a lot of time, but the fresh air door assembly is needed not just the door and it is only available at the Ford dealer. For Ford Explorer and Mercury Mountaneer 2002, 2003, 2004 & 2005 the part # is 1L2Z18B259AC, list price is $49.60, verify application at the dealer.
Gary W :
Date: January 2, 2009 @ 3:17 pm
I have a 2005 Ford Explorer and I was experiencing exhaust fumes entering my vehicle when driving on the freeway. My recirculating door was broken and I was able to figure this out because of the information provided on this blog. This is a time consuming project but I saved $1,150(labor costs) that the dealership was going to charge me. The information provided in this blog was 95% accurate. The recirculating door assembly is $71.00 from the dealersip. Thanks again for the invaluable information.
Gary W :
Date: January 2, 2009 @ 3:28 pm
Erik,
Most likely your recirculating door is broken and lying on the bottom of the assembly. As mentioned previously you can open the glove box and move climate control and see if the door moves. Another way to check if the door is broken is to lift(pry gently) the narrow strip of palstic (insert/tab) located on top of the dash on passenger’s side. Standing outside the vehicle on the passenger’s side look down through the windshield and dash and you can see the door lying on the bottom of the assembly.
Craig :
Date: March 4, 2009 @ 9:39 pm
I have a 2004 Ford Explorer and the heat stopped working and I hear a constant clicking from behind the controls. Is this a big job yes or no? Thanks
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: March 5, 2009 @ 7:30 am
Craig, the problem you are describing is most likely a bad actuator – a small electric motor that opens and closes a door to control air flow in the HVAC (Heating Ventilation & Air Conditioning) case. There are several, sometimes they are easy to get to and other times they are buried. If you can access it and verify it is causing the clicking, take the numbers off of it so the dealer can sell you the correct one. Parts stores will not have this part most likely and even the dealers have a difficult time looking up the correct one without the OEM numbers off the old one.
Len :
Date: April 12, 2009 @ 12:22 pm
Hello, I will be attempting this one my Explorer… do I need to remove the steering column?
Thanks
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: April 12, 2009 @ 1:44 pm
Len, The steering column is only unbolted at the bottom where the shaft connects that goes through the firewall. Leave it attached to the dash.
nick :
Date: April 15, 2009 @ 10:22 pm
I have a 2003 explorer and the recirculation door is broken and right now the 2 front passenger side air vents blow colder air than the 2 driver vents now is this because of the recirculation door? Once I fix the door am I going to have to fix another problem with the 2 different temps?
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: April 16, 2009 @ 6:58 am
Nick, Most of the time if the air temperature is noticeable cooler on the passenger side it’s due to the system being a little low on refrigerant. When the broken recirculate door is replaced it will make both sides cooler (because the air will be recirculating), but most likely your system is a little low. You could try topping off the system first to verify this.
nick :
Date: April 17, 2009 @ 5:08 pm
i changed the recirculation door and the tempature is still not right. my blend door and blend door actuator are workin fine and wen u stick ur hand in the hole in the center dash where the blend door is and u can feel the mesh metal heater core in the back and u can feel cold air on the right side of it and warm hot air on the left of it. wat could cause this? and thanks for helpin me out
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: April 17, 2009 @ 5:27 pm
Nick, Is it possible the metal heater core that you are describing in the middle is actually the evaporator core? If so it would be normal that it is warm on one side and cooler on the other side.
Is the system fully charged? What are the gauge readings (normal?) and is the inlet to the evaporator ice cold? Vent temperature on Max cold, high setting at 1,000 RPMs?
todd :
Date: April 26, 2009 @ 1:41 pm
I have a 2004 ford explorer in the winter I noticed I had a problem with the heater fan turning on until the car got hot now that the weather is hot I can seem to get the A/C light to stay lit the fan will blow at full speed but the a/c light comes on and off. When it is on the car blows ice cold air. Any help would be great..
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: April 27, 2009 @ 6:28 am
Todd, when the blower is turned ON, but is not working, use a test light to see if it is getting power and ground. If it is, the blower motor has an intermittant open circuit. – Also try tapping on the blower motor if it’s getting power but not on. If it comes on temporarily this lets you know the motor is failing.
The bulb for the AC switch that flickers could be as simple as the bulb going out or it could mean the control head is acting up.
Sid :
Date: May 30, 2009 @ 6:37 pm
I have a ‘03 explorer. my problem seem to be similar to Nick’s. The passenger side blows cool air about 68 the driver side blows air about 80. I checked the pressure and it reads 50psi it is about 90 outside. will adding refrigerant help this, I am afraid of ruining the system by over charging, or is there a heat exchange valve or door that is stuck?
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: May 30, 2009 @ 6:51 pm
Sid, if the pressure reading is 50psi with the system off, then it is low on refrigerant. The system should be blowing colder than that, probably more like 50 degrees on max. There’s no heat exchange valve, just an orifice tube (expansion tube). First determine if the system if full and then get an idea from the gauge readings. See our blog on AC gauge readings explained for more info.
Sid :
Date: May 30, 2009 @ 7:01 pm
Thanks for the quick answer. I don’t have access to a dual guage system at this point. with the system running and set to max cool the low pressure side reads 50 psi is that considered Low at 90 degrees?
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: May 30, 2009 @ 7:09 pm
To be able to diagnose this properly, it’s important to know both readings. But based on the low side reading being 50psi (ambient temp 90) with the system ON, the system is either 1.Over-charged 2.Not enough air going across the condenser or 3.The compressor is not pumping sufficiently. If you haven’t charged the system recently my guess is the compressor is failing, but again seeing both readings and understanding them is best to diag this problem.
Kiesha :
Date: June 10, 2009 @ 2:42 pm
I have a 2003 ford explorer, the a/c blows only hot air. Does it need anti-freeze or is something else wrong?
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: June 10, 2009 @ 3:12 pm
Kiesha, I would first start by hooking up AC gauges and finding out if it is a low refrigerant problem (anti freeze is for the engine’s cooling system not the air conditioning). See our article about AC gauge readings. If the system is low, then check for leaks. Hope that get’s you pointed in the right direction.
jim :
Date: June 25, 2009 @ 12:33 pm
I have a 2002 Explorer and the 2 vents on the passenger side of the truck are blowing out air that is not cold, however the 2 vents on the drivers side are fine. Any suggestions as to what the problem could be?? Jim
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: June 25, 2009 @ 2:12 pm
Jim, If I were checking your Explorer I’d take a quick look at the recirculate door, then verify the refrigerant charge is full. Somemtimes low refrigerant can cause temp differences from side to side -although I would have thought the passenger side would have been colder than the drivers side if it was low. Then if this is a dual zone system I would use a scan tool to check for codes to see if that would provide any help. It’s always best to rule out the simple things first.
Robert :
Date: June 27, 2009 @ 11:57 pm
I’m sooooo glad I found this site! I have problems with my 03 explorer 4.6L, in the winter cold air through the glovebox which must be the fresh air door as mentioned in this blog? In the summer, AC is warmer on drivers side than the passenger side. evac and recharge? I see rock auto has a dorman heater blend door? Would this be the part? They also have actuator motors from dorman. I have really been impressed with rockauto, some of the things they have I have only been able to find at the dealer at a premium price. That blend door is only $18.12. PS: none of these symptoms could be related to the actuator motor?
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: June 28, 2009 @ 7:49 am
Robert, most likely the cold air coming in behind the glove box is a broken door… there’s only one way to find out and that is to look at it and follow the directions in the blog.
It’s best to check the gauge readings to get an idea what’s going on with the rest of the system, see our auto repair blog “AC gauge Readings Explained.”
Blend doors can cause problems too, but this article is NOT about those (blend door will be in the middle of the dash). This article is about the fresh air door assembly (also called a recirculate door assembly) not the blend door. Be careful when buying after market on this item because you may only get the door and not the assembly. The repair procedure outlined in this blog requires replacement of the housing too, not just the door.
Actuators can of obviously can go bad, but on the Explorer the recirculate door is the weakest part in the HVAC system (therefore the most common failure).
Jonathan :
Date: June 29, 2009 @ 5:58 pm
Hopefully i can get an idea of what it is that is causing my a/c not to work properly. It’s a 03 lincon aviator, and I’m having problems the driver said vents not blowing cold air. the passenger side vents are fine. The truck does have dual temperature a/c. I started by taking apart the center dash and I can look through the center vents. I can see the temperature blend doors move when I select hot or cold. I also checked the freon charge and it was a bit over charged, so I took some out. Help please.
David :
Date: July 1, 2009 @ 9:45 pm
I started this job today. I found everything fine. Now I am stuck trying to unbolt the steering column. I think there are four bolts on a plate by the brake, but I am not sure. Dennis can you guide me or post a picture?
Thanks
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: July 2, 2009 @ 6:27 am
David, don’t unbolt the steering column other than the 10mm coupler, bolt like mentioned in the “unbolting the dash” section.
“Unbolt the steering coupler near the driver’s floorboard. There is one hidden 10mm bolt that is accessed from the outside.”
David :
Date: July 2, 2009 @ 4:42 pm
Thanks Dennis, I was uncleared if i had to unbolt the steering column, eventhough i read the blog, Then i found the 10mm bolt in the coupler. I took me just a little be more than 3 hours, but the job can be done. Now this baby is blowing and cooling like it should.
Joe :
Date: July 8, 2009 @ 2:25 pm
I have a 2003 nbx explorer. My A/C was working but the air flow was poor. Sure enough, the blend door was broken off just as described in the this article. I was able to see the bottom 1/3 of the fresh air box (as seen in your second picture) behind the glove box. I simply used a hacksaw blade an cut the bottom row of the screen and about 1 inch of the plastic out of the way so I could remove the door that was lying on top of the blower. I was also able to reach in and cover the fresh air opening. Crude repair job but the A/C works perfect, it took 15 min and best of all —free—
chris :
Date: July 14, 2009 @ 6:06 pm
Great site, thanks very much. Today I replaced the fresh air door assembly as described above on my 02 explorer. Everything went fairly smooth. The part cost $63 at the local dealer. Realistically this is a 3-4 hour job for a first timer.
Couple of notes/comments that may help those less mechanically inclined like me.
1. No bolts are removed from inside near the steering column – just the one under the cowl trim.
2. Most of the plastic trim adjacent to the dash needs to be removed so the dash can swing out.
3. I unbolted three wiring harnesses from the right side of engine compartment. I don’t know if this is correct.
4. I had to remove two 10mm bolts on each side near the top of the transmission housing behind the center console, in order for the dash to move.
5. In order to remove the center console the top portion of it must be removed, to access four additional 10mm bolts holding the console down.
6. I initially swung the dash out about 6 inches, which was enough to remove the old box, but not enough to fit the new one. I had to wrestle it more on the drivers side to get the extra space to slide the new box down from the top near the windshield.
Hope this helps. Mine works like charm now. Thanks again for the great site.
Mike Wright :
Date: July 29, 2009 @ 10:51 am
I have an 02 Explorer XLT. My passenger side vents are blowing out warm air, while my drivers side vents are blowing out cold air. Should I check my refrigerent levels first, or should I check my recirculate door first? If I should check my recirculate door first, where is it located at? And, how difficult is it, and how expensive is it to replace?
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: July 29, 2009 @ 11:15 am
I would do both. The recirculate door assembly is located behind the glove-box. Read the article above and comments for more information
Mike Wright :
Date: July 29, 2009 @ 12:38 pm
Well, how difficult and how expensive would it be to check and replace my recirculate door myself?
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: July 29, 2009 @ 1:19 pm
Checking is easy as stated in the article.
“This can be checked easily. First, listen for increased air flow when changing the the AC to max. If the air doesn’t sound louder in the max position, there’s a good chance the recirculate door is broken. Next open the glove box and look for movement of the recirculate door when switching from normal to max air.”
The recirculate door price can differ depending on your location. If a person is mechanically inclined and willing to read the information provided, the door replacement job can be done saving hundreds of dollars.
Mike Wright :
Date: July 29, 2009 @ 2:03 pm
My recirculate door is probably broken because I do not hear increased air flow when I turn my air to max. Also, I have four blower speeds for my air. Speed one blows air very slow, two and three are the same, and four blows very fast. Does any of this have anything to do with the recirculate door, and if not, what is the likely cause?
JC :
Date: August 9, 2009 @ 12:35 pm
I have the same problem…door laying on bottom…so with it covering the blower motor hole, how does the system still blow adequate air on all fan settings?
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: August 9, 2009 @ 1:59 pm
JC, With the fan uncovered you might be surprised how much extra airflow you’ll gain.
Bob D :
Date: August 11, 2009 @ 6:01 pm
I have a 2002 Explorer with the door laying at the bottom. Can I just cover the box or somehow block outside air inlet altogether? I don’t need to blend the outside air.
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: August 11, 2009 @ 9:02 pm
Bob, The best fix is to replace the assembly like in the article. I don’t have any information on trying to alter or rig the case. Although I’ve seen some work done by others in the past, that involved placing the door over the fresh air return (the grated plastic part) with screws. They cut some of the grated plastic to allow access to the fallen door. Again, I don’t recommend this. I think the fix in the blog is by far the best option and normal operation is retained.
kyler :
Date: August 15, 2009 @ 4:30 pm
does anyone know the part number for the fresh air door on an 04 explorer
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: August 15, 2009 @ 4:41 pm
For Ford Explorer and Mercury Mountaneer 2002, 2003, 2004 & 2005 the part # is 1L2Z18B259AC, verify application at the dealer.
braso :
Date: August 18, 2009 @ 10:21 am
This is great information.
I have the same problem as Mike W. But mine is the center (right) vent and passenger side vent blows warm air. My 2002 xlt control switches are totally different from most since its GCC specs. The left switch has 3 settings for both recirculate and fresh air. The right most switch does not have the max ac setting.
The sound goes louder when setting is on high and there seems to be movement in the recirculate door.
Does it need recharge only? Thanks.
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: August 18, 2009 @ 10:46 am
Braso, It’s always best to start by checking the AC gauge readings, in case low refrigerant is the problem. I would eliminate that as a cause before looking further.
Glenn :
Date: August 18, 2009 @ 11:50 am
I have a 2002 explorer with rear air. My passenger side air vents blow warmer air than the drivers side. The air in the rear is colder than in the front. The door behind the glove compartment moves when I switch the controls. When checked by my mechanic the system is fully charged. Is there a difference between the door behind the glove box and the blend door? If it is different do I need to remove the dash as described?
Matt :
Date: August 18, 2009 @ 12:28 pm
I have a 2002 ford explorer. when the a/c is running it blows cold out of the drivers side and warmer on the pasenger side. It also starts out blowing out of the dash vents, but switches to defrost vents on it’s own. I took it to a dealership and they say i have a bad heater control valve. does that sound right?
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: August 18, 2009 @ 1:00 pm
Glenn, Yes, there is a difference in the blend door and the recirculate door. The blend door on the Explorer is not a common problem (but anything is possible). I would ask a second opinion from someone locally. Low refrigerant can cause variations of temperature in vents sometimes.
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: August 18, 2009 @ 1:02 pm
Matt, That would only make sense if the heater control valve is leaking vacuum. A vacuum leak is a very common cause of the air to blow out the defrost upon accelleration.
braso :
Date: August 18, 2009 @ 2:15 pm
Thanks for the quick response Dennisb. Ill have the ac gauge checked. Its only this last 3 months that my xlt started showing problems since 2002. Service engine soon light problem, dpfe, Courtesy light and now the AC.
Big Thanks for the help – from this side of the world (Dubai)
Matt :
Date: August 18, 2009 @ 3:41 pm
Thanks for the response. That explains why it switches from dash to defrost. Does it have anything to do with the difference in temp between the driver and passenger sides?
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: August 19, 2009 @ 11:13 am
Matt, no the difference in side to side is not likely because a vacuum leak, unless the door actuators are controlled by vacuum. I would also be looking at the possibilty of low refrigerant or a possible door actuator problem.
Glenn :
Date: August 19, 2009 @ 1:55 pm
Thanks Dennis. I checked the gauge readings and they are not low. What other reason could cause it to blow warm air on the drivers side, especially if the fresh air door hasn’t fallen and still closes when necessary?
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: August 19, 2009 @ 7:18 pm
Glenn, if the temperature difference is substantial there could be a door or actuator problem like you originally asked. A trained tech that can see exactly what’s going on, should be able pinpoint the problem fairly easily.
dennisb - Auto Tool Sales :
Date: August 19, 2009 @ 7:30 pm
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